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Ken,
First it was the subsoiler..... Now this. Is this category 1?

I have been looking for a 3 point 2 bottom for a long time. I am learning that a tiller is nice, but after a few years you need to break up the soil below the grasp of the tiller because you get a high plow pan!

Also, are you running a free shipping sale anytime soon....LOL....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ken,
First it was the subsoiler..... Now this. Is this category 1?

I have been looking for a 3 point 2 bottom for a long time. I am learning that a tiller is nice, but after a few years you need to break up the soil below the grasp of the tiller because you get a high plow pan!

Also, are you running a free shipping sale anytime soon....LOL....
Brian, It is category 1. Shipping is almost free. Less than $100 to Mi. anyway. Ken Sweet
 

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If its priced in my range of available funds from the wife, I will take it.

On Edit: AND will fit behind a 4520. It looks to be quite forward of the three point hook up. Would the 4520 have the room for this?
 

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Ken, Apparently whats old is new again! Beautuful plow...but is this any different then any other 3pt plow? I know you and I had a "mini discussion" somewhere else about 3pt plows...could you post up a "noob's guide to plowing"....things like the spacing from the drawbar to inside of the RR Tire, etc...

I guess my biggest question was I was originally thinking it was impossible to plow correctly with most CUT's then I see this thread!
If Brian wouldnt have called dibs first, pending some chatter about this, I woulda thrown my hat into the ring too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ken, Apparently whats old is new again! Beautuful plow...but is this any different then any other 3pt plow? I know you and I had a "mini discussion" somewhere else about 3pt plows...could you post up a "noob's guide to plowing"....things like the spacing from the drawbar to inside of the RR Tire, etc...

I guess my biggest question was I was originally thinking it was impossible to plow correctly with most CUT's then I see this thread!
If Brian wouldnt have called dibs first, pending some chatter about this, I woulda thrown my hat into the ring too!
Dave, the new plows don't hold a candle to the old plows made by the majors. Most new don't have spring adjustable trips or coulters or high quality/heavier steel inputs in the framing. In addition, when did you see a TSC or Leinbach plow with a rolling tailwheel made of steel? 2-12 need to be 23 inches from center of drawbar to inside edge of right rear tire. You can cheat a little by sliding the plow on the cross drawbar to compensate. Ken Sweet
 

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Dave, the new plows don't hold a candle to the old plows made by the majors. Most new don't have spring adjustable trips or coulters or high quality/heavier steel inputs in the framing. In addition, when did you see a TSC or Leinbach plow with a rolling tailwheel made of steel? 2-12 need to be 23 inches from center of drawbar to inside edge of right rear tire. You can cheat a little by sliding the plow on the cross drawbar to compensate. Ken Sweet
I totally agree with the plow quality of "back then"...I'm to the point of frustration with plows that I honestly think I'm just gonna buy a big "real farm plow" like a 5 or 6 bottom JD because I can get em CHEEP! and use the parts to make my own plow. My FIL has a 3 bottom JD I can use for measurements, but I'd like to find a 2 bottom so I can make an identical copy...only because I know plowing is a "numbers game" when it comes to spacing, dimensions, etc...

Using a 3pt plow on a CUT is a tricky proposition because of the spacing issue...I only have 14" on my 3520 w/R4's...
In a perfect world I'd find something like this 444H:
Agricultural machinery Vehicle Tractor Product Weeder
 

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Now I need to find a 4x20 cab to take measurements... Not many guys have R1's on theirs either. Ddivinia has an 4x20 with R4's. Maybe he can help me.
What measurements do you need?

It is going to tight - the draft arm's aren't real long.

Are you going to be running imatch?

D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I totally agree with the plow quality of "back then"...I'm to the point of frustration with plows that I honestly think I'm just gonna buy a big "real farm plow" like a 5 or 6 bottom JD because I can get em CHEEP! and use the parts to make my own plow. My FIL has a 3 bottom JD I can use for measurements, but I'd like to find a 2 bottom so I can make an identical copy...only because I know plowing is a "numbers game" when it comes to spacing, dimensions, etc...

Using a 3pt plow on a CUT is a tricky proposition because of the spacing issue...I only have 14" on my 3520 w/R4's...
In a perfect world I'd find something like this 444H:
View attachment 151
That is a nice 444H. I don't recall ever seeing one in person. Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If its priced in my range of available funds from the wife, I will take it.

On Edit: AND will fit behind a 4520. It looks to be quite forward of the three point hook up. Would the 4520 have the room for this?
Brian from the centerline of the cross drawbar to the most extreme forward point on the Coulter mount is 17 inches. Standard Category 1 spacing on the 3 point hitch. Price is $695 with 2 new shins and 2 new points installed. + shipping. Ken
 

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plow distance from wheels

My 4052r with the wheel spacers has an extra 11 +inches between wheels....might help if you are looking for fitting a plow and have a nice one that is a bit wider than you might otherwise feel comfortable with. And the cost is modest and the install not a big deal....
BTW the extra width does make a big difference in stability on my hilly property.
If you are anticipating plowing you might also consider the hydraulic down pressure device. In our Connecticut soil the penetration is poor unless a considerable weight is added to the plow due to the rocks and general rocky nature of the soil.
I have a midbuster plow that I thought might be of help here and it would NOT go down more than an inch or so.....until I added about 140 pounds of weights to the device at which time it went down a foot with ease....And yes the pointy end was pitched downward:banghead:
I may look into the hydraulic downpressure add on as I have the additional hydraulics already installed.....if it is not a budget buster.
As they say....everyone's conditions are different so these things may or may not help.
I like the wider stance on the wheels for the feel of extra stability when I go over a steep incline....sometimes needing to go at an angle .
I do have to watch what I am driving over though since the back end is out there.
Dockw
PS one additional item....I don't know if the 52 horses are enough to pull a double plow...with R4's.....any opinions?
 

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dockw, you have the hp, but do you have the tractor weight for the traction you will need? Bare weight on your tractor is 3770lbs, so, I would think that you are ok with the tractor pulling a 2 bottom plow.
 

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Plow

My 4052r with the wheel spacers has an extra 11 +inches between wheels....might help if you are looking for fitting a plow and have a nice one that is a bit wider than you might otherwise feel comfortable with. And the cost is modest and the install not a big deal....
BTW the extra width does make a big difference in stability on my hilly property.
If you are anticipating plowing you might also consider the hydraulic down pressure device. In our Connecticut soil the penetration is poor unless a considerable weight is added to the plow due to the rocks and general rocky nature of the soil.
I have a midbuster plow that I thought might be of help here and it would NOT go down more than an inch or so.....until I added about 140 pounds of weights to the device at which time it went down a foot with ease....And yes the pointy end was pitched downward:banghead:
I may look into the hydraulic downpressure add on as I have the additional hydraulics already installed.....if it is not a budget buster.
As they say....everyone's conditions are different so these things may or may not help.
I like the wider stance on the wheels for the feel of extra stability when I go over a steep incline....sometimes needing to go at an angle .
I do have to watch what I am driving over though since the back end is out there.
Dockw
PS one additional item....I don't know if the 52 horses are enough to pull a double plow...with R4's.....any opinions?
For what it's worth we pulled 4 14" bottoms with a 60 hp two wheel drive tractor but the soils may have been different. I guess a rule of thumb might be 1 hp for every inch of plow width plus a couple more horses for insurance. I rarely remember ever having a problem getting a plow into the ground unless the shares were worn out. Those were mostly semi-mounted plows, no down pressure, no added weights and sometimes going into pretty heavy sod as we would rotate out of pasture into corn in the succeeding year. As we got bigger tractors, we also moved up in plow size but in a lot of ways, I still liked how a 14" share plowed. It seemed to break up the soil better than the larger plows.

Treefarmer
 
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My 2520 pulls a middle buster without even breaking a sweat in virgin black dirt. I don't know how much more tow force is required for a true plow (it's probably turning more soil but not going as deep as a middle buster??) but I can't see how a 4-series would have any problem with a 2 bottom plow.

Rob
 
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