Hey Rpdranc,and:gtt:
The 1026 owners will be along with answers for you.
Greg
The 1026 owners will be along with answers for you.
Greg
What is Proper rpm speed on tach for mid mount mower 1026r?
Sorry really dumb questions to follow: just got my first tractor! JD 1026r. I have 11 acres to mow and half of it right now is quite tall and thick. If I am cutting in Low what speed should tach be at, should I always be at the pto marker at 3200? Seems like high speed for mid mower? Also where should eng coolant temp gauge needle be at normal mowing after an hour?
How bout in high cutting med length grass, 3200 or 2100?
What needs to be lubricated after weekly use? Any advice greatly appreciated!!
How bout in high cutting med length grass, 3200 or 2100?
What needs to be lubricated after weekly use? Any advice greatly appreciated!!
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Wide open ! when mowing.
Your manual will show you all the maintenance points.
Dont know on temps, but keep an eye on your radiator screen for debris.
Your manual will show you all the maintenance points.
Dont know on temps, but keep an eye on your radiator screen for debris.
The indicator on the tachometer (3200 for the 1026?) is the correct engine speed for proper PTO speed whether its the front or rear your using. The rear PTO speed is 540 and the front is 2100. If you mow at less than the rated RPM, your mower will not do as nice a job since the tip speed will be considerably less.
Nice choice in tractors!
:wgtt:
Glad to have you here! :thumbup1gif:
Mowing with your new R should be done at the PTO emblem on the the tach. Like Kenny said, you'll lose considerable blade tip speed and available horsepower at anything less. You'll want to choose between high and low range on your transmission depending on the terrain and load the grass is putting on the machine. If it's thick and/or hilly, low range might be the best choice. Flat ground with "normal" mowing, high range could be appropriate. The Owner's Manual does have some good info about operating your new tractor. If you've read it already, try rereading it again. You'll be amazed at what you learn the second time.:good2:
Don't hesitate to post any questions you might have. You'll find GTT a great site with great guys. We do like to have fun here from time to time...:mocking:
Oh, watch out for the picture police. We love pictures here.:drinks:
:wgtt:
Glad to have you here! :thumbup1gif:
Mowing with your new R should be done at the PTO emblem on the the tach. Like Kenny said, you'll lose considerable blade tip speed and available horsepower at anything less. You'll want to choose between high and low range on your transmission depending on the terrain and load the grass is putting on the machine. If it's thick and/or hilly, low range might be the best choice. Flat ground with "normal" mowing, high range could be appropriate. The Owner's Manual does have some good info about operating your new tractor. If you've read it already, try rereading it again. You'll be amazed at what you learn the second time.:good2:
Don't hesitate to post any questions you might have. You'll find GTT a great site with great guys. We do like to have fun here from time to time...:mocking:
Oh, watch out for the picture police. We love pictures here.:drinks:
Watch that radiator screen
The outside screen, on front of tractor, is perhaps not fine enough... learned a lesson! Watch that temperature gauge in dirty conditions...
i agree, on debris in the radiator screen; mowed a ditch the other day... tall "prairie" type grasses left over from last year, and very dry. Really plugged that lower screen, the one right on the radiator, lower part. Tractor headed toward the "red zone" in matter of a couple of minutes... never experienced a tractor almost overheat so fast. Did catch it in time... made it to the shop, and the air gun, before it got to the red zone.Wide open ! when mowing.
Your manual will show you all the maintenance points.
Dont know on temps, but keep an eye on your radiator screen for debris.
The outside screen, on front of tractor, is perhaps not fine enough... learned a lesson! Watch that temperature gauge in dirty conditions...
Another big WELCOME to GTT!
We are glad you joined in the fun. And as long as this site has been functional I have yet to read one dumb question posted. Enjoy and learn.
We are glad you joined in the fun. And as long as this site has been functional I have yet to read one dumb question posted. Enjoy and learn.
Lower radiator screen plugging
I think the hood doesn't seal the radiator compartment right. I haven't mowed with mine much yet, but I've been pushing a lot of brush around and grass gets on the screen quickly. I've added a weather seal and it appears to be helping. I think I will put a removable piece of screen over the compartment also. I've not noticed any collection of grass on the outside front screen. I also reported the issue to my dealer.i agree, on debris in the radiator screen; mowed a ditch the other day... tall "prairie" type grasses left over from last year, and very dry. Really plugged that lower screen, the one right on the radiator, lower part. Tractor headed toward the "red zone" in matter of a couple of minutes... never experienced a tractor almost overheat so fast. Did catch it in time... made it to the shop, and the air gun, before it got to the red zone.
The outside screen, on front of tractor, is perhaps not fine enough... learned a lesson! Watch that temperature gauge in dirty conditions...
My temp gauge hardly ever comes off of cold. Although 3100 is the correct mowing RPM I run mine at about 2500. This cuts my grass just fine as I can't bear to here that tiny engine screaming to cut 1 inch of grass. Maybe I'm loosing some cut quality but it looks great to me.
My property is fairly flat, so with that being said, I usually set the RPM between 2600 - 2700. If the grass is thick and tall I will bump it up to 2900 - 3000 RPM. For me, that engine speed is ideal and the blades speed is plenty fast to provide a nice clean cut. IMO, max RPM when mowing a lawn that's not too thick/tall is wasting fuel and making the motor run hard for no reason. If the engine bogs down or the cut quality is less than adequate...give the juice lever a bump!:laugh:
X2 same was told by my dealer to mow short grass at 2700/2800 RPM......I have the newer dash model R and it does not have the pto light on the tach however when mowing at 2700 RPM the hour meter is reading 1750...Not sure about the hour meter reading as its not talked about in the manual as the manual I own is for the older stye dash.CheersMy property is fairly flat, so with that being said, I usually set the RPM between 2600 - 2700. If the grass is thick and tall I will bump it up to 2900 - 3000 RPM. For me, that engine speed is ideal and the blades speed is plenty fast to provide a nice clean cut. IMO, max RPM when mowing a lawn that's not too thick/tall is wasting fuel and making the motor run hard for no reason. If the engine bogs down or the cut quality is less than adequate...give the juice lever a bump!:laugh:
Wide open when mowing for me.....
I know there is another thread on this, but I also engage the PTO at wide open throttle while mowing. I have done this with my other tractors as well with no problems. The 1023 seems to have a "relief" (as if clutched) when you engage the PTO. I have tried it at lower RPM as others have said, and it seems to be happiest when engaged at full speed.
It does seem to engage smoothly either way with zero stress although lower RPM seems to be harder on the motor stress wise too IMO.
Do what works best for you .....sorry for the hijack. :cheers:
I know there is another thread on this, but I also engage the PTO at wide open throttle while mowing. I have done this with my other tractors as well with no problems. The 1023 seems to have a "relief" (as if clutched) when you engage the PTO. I have tried it at lower RPM as others have said, and it seems to be happiest when engaged at full speed.
It does seem to engage smoothly either way with zero stress although lower RPM seems to be harder on the motor stress wise too IMO.
Do what works best for you .....sorry for the hijack. :cheers:
I mow at full throttle too
Proper operating RPM for the mid PTO is 2100 indicated on the 2012 1 series tractors on the digital read-out. The engine tach will read 3200 RPM. Anything less will give less than optimal performance with the mower. Don't worry about saving any fuel. It's extremely minimal if any. Plus you won't lug the engine and will have the full available horsepower. 2011 1 series tractors have the PTO emblem on the tach at 3200 RPM, no light other than "PTO on". If the rear PTO is selected on the 2012 models, the digital readout will display the rear PTO RPM which should be 540 RPM. These tractors are designed for these speeds and will perform their best when operated accordingly. :thumbup1gif:X2 same was told by my dealer to mow short grass at 2700/2800 RPM......I have the newer dash model R and it does not have the pto light on the tach however when mowing at 2700 RPM the hour meter is reading 1750...Not sure about the hour meter reading as its not talked about in the manual as the manual I own is for the older stye dash.Cheers
Engaging and disengaging the PTO at idle speed is prescribed in the owner's manual. The instrument cluster controls the PTO solenoid. When it allows the PTO to be operated, it ramps the current supplied to the solenoid up over a period of two seconds to smoothly engage the PTO clutch. I believe the reason it tells you to engage and disengage the PTO at idle is to save wear and tear on the clutches. These tractors have a hydraulically operated clutch (just like the big boys) that will outlast and outperform an electric PTO clutch found on box store mowers.Wide open when mowing for me.....
I know there is another thread on this, but I also engage the PTO at wide open throttle while mowing. I have done this with my other tractors as well with no problems. The 1023 seems to have a "relief" (as if clutched) when you engage the PTO. I have tried it at lower RPM as others have said, and it seems to be happiest when engaged at full speed.
It does seem to engage smoothly either way with zero stress although lower RPM seems to be harder on the motor stress wise too IMO.
Do what works best for you .....sorry for the hijack. :cheers:
Thanks for that info about the Pto clutch. I was wondering why mower seemed slow getting up to speed and seemed so smooth engaging the PTO:good2:Proper operating RPM for the mid PTO is 2100 indicated on the 2012 1 series tractors on the digital read-out. The engine tach will read 3200 RPM. Anything less will give less than optimal performance with the mower. Don't worry about saving any fuel. It's extremely minimal if any. Plus you won't lug the engine and will have the full available horsepower. 2011 1 series tractors have the PTO emblem on the tach at 3200 RPM, no light other than "PTO on". If the rear PTO is selected on the 2012 models, the digital readout will display the rear PTO RPM which should be 540 RPM. These tractors are designed for these speeds and will perform their best when operated accordingly. :thumbup1gif:
Engaging and disengaging the PTO at idle speed is prescribed in the owner's manual. The instrument cluster controls the PTO solenoid. When it allows the PTO to be operated, it ramps the current supplied to the solenoid up over a period of two seconds to smoothly engage the PTO clutch. I believe the reason it tells you to engage and disengage the PTO at idle is to save wear and tear on the clutches. These tractors have a hydraulically operated clutch (just like the big boys) that will outlast and outperform an electric PTO clutch found on box store mowers.
Running engine to slow for mowing on 4110
This is an old post and I am new at this. I hope you get it. Really frustrated with owners manual and how I read it.
Thanks,
Eric
Holy cow I have been doing this wrong for ten years I think. I thought the owners manual for my 4110 indicated that the engine RPM was 2100 for mid mount mowing. When I read your post I see that you set the engine at 3200 and the reduction to the mid mount PTO gives 2100 at the drive to the mower. Is this correct? If I have been running the engine at 2100 for 400 hours of grass mowing do you think I did any damage to the engine or tractor by way of lack of cooling or any other factor?Proper operating RPM for the mid PTO is 2100 indicated on the 2012 1 series tractors on the digital read-out. The engine tach will read 3200 RPM. Anything less will give less than optimal performance with the mower.
This is an old post and I am new at this. I hope you get it. Really frustrated with owners manual and how I read it.
Thanks,
Eric
You've done no damage Eric, but your MMM sure wasn't operating at peak performance. Once the PTO is engaged, throttle up at least to the yellow mark on the tach, but I always went full throttle.
When the tach is at indicator, the rear PTO is turning at 540 rpm, and the mid-PTO at 2100 rpm which is optimal for the MMM, snowblower, and broom.
When the tach is at indicator, the rear PTO is turning at 540 rpm, and the mid-PTO at 2100 rpm which is optimal for the MMM, snowblower, and broom.
When mowing mine is running at 2000-2200 rpm. Everyone is right about the radiator screen filling with debris quickly. I found out the hard way if you let it fill up and don't catch the engine over heating. Luckily, nothing happens except tractor just cuts the pto off and if it gets really bad your tractor will just shut off on its own before it really over heats. Must be some technology built into the tractor to keep the engine from blowing. So keep screen clean. Going to try and rig something up around hood to seal it better and maybe put in a finer screen right behind outside screen to keep debris reaching thru outer screen and reaching the inner engine one, in hope to get rid of this issue. What have others done or used to tackle this problem?
Thanks,
Travis
Thanks,
Travis
Radiator sizes
I work with a guy who used to work on tractors a lot for a rental agency so he saw all kinds of stuff. He told me that most good quality tractors have the radiators oversized by 50%. Not sure how true it is or where he got his facts, but he is really good with engines on small and large equipment.
I work with a guy who used to work on tractors a lot for a rental agency so he saw all kinds of stuff. He told me that most good quality tractors have the radiators oversized by 50%. Not sure how true it is or where he got his facts, but he is really good with engines on small and large equipment.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
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