Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,887 Posts
First question is a biggie:

Will this cab be in addition to your ROPS or will it be taking the place of your ROPS?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,965 Posts
Hiya,

Yup, you need to define expected load rating and rigidity of the structure before choosing a material, size and wall thickness.

However, in all cases, avoid "Free maching" or "leadloy" <Grin>
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,272 Posts
If I had a nice tube bender and notcher, I would use round tubing like a rollcage. Since I don't have those things, I'd use square tubing and miter the joints.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,057 Posts
If I had a nice tube bender and notcher, I would use round tubing like a rollcage. Since I don't have those things, I'd use square tubing and miter the joints.
I'd use square tubing regardless. It will be much easier to attach the glass and body panels.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,507 Posts
If it's not going to show in the final product, I would use square tubing.

If it's going to show as four post ROPS with roof, the roof mount (top horizonals) would be square tubing and uprights would be round, professionally bent if required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,965 Posts
I'd make the front posts on a cage out of the same stuff my ROPS is made of: 2x3x.25" wall tube.

Limb risers can be lighter depending on what you plan on doing with the machine. I've gotten around pretty well without anything in my woods (my LED's brackets haven't fared as well), but then I'm not in conifers and all our trees grow straight up til they get to sun in the canopy.

Under-armor is something I really long for, but it's been put on hold for the time being due to other goals and expenses. I've had my QD's pulled off the loader valve more than once. Both my steps aren't vertical anymore either. I'm lucky that's all that happened and no real damage occurred. At the same time, the plastic cover over my drive shaft for the MFWD looks like it's been attacked by rodents. I get little twiggy crap up under the machine more often than I'd prefer.

In the past I've said 1/4" plate was excessive for a belly pan, but now I'm not so sure that's true. I've rammed stumps (and full trees for that matter) with my skidding winch while backing up, so getting into a rock or something capable of sliding a 7,000# tractor over it and not giving means your belly pan needs to be able to take the abuse. Might be a good time to figure out a form of undercarriage and reinforce the whole chassis of the machine while you're at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys. Where do yall think i need to mount the cab post? To the front end loader piece? Or to the skid plate and make it where it can unbolt from the belly pan?
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top