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Hi. I'm new to the forum but Thank God I found you guys. So much stuff to learn. I just purchased a new tractor but I still have a week till they deliver the 54" mower to the dealer. I need a trailer but I don't know what kind and how to load it. It's my first tractor and I havee no ideas. Please help !!!
 

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Tractor Trailer Suggestion

Hi. I'm new to the forum but Thank God I found you guys. So much stuff to learn. I just purchased a new tractor but I still have a week till they deliver the 54" mower to the dealer. I need a trailer but I don't know what kind and how to load it. It's my first tractor and I havee no ideas. Please help !!!
Welcome to GTT! I would suggest you get a trailer that is at least 6' X 12'. I bought a 5' X 10' tilt trailer and I can haul my 1026R on it with the FEL but it just fits. I also have a 60" belly mower and it will not fit on the trailer between the 5' tire fenders. I've had this tractor since 2012 and I've had to take it into the shop three times for belly mower broken parts. This last time, JD beefed up the rear draft/lift arm and it should be good from now on. Don't get me wrong, my 1026R has been an excellent tractor. I got one of the first 1026Rs. There are always new model bugs to work out. You are benefiting from our early user experience. You'll need to get ramps or a tilt trailer to load your unit. Don't cheap on the tie downs. Shop around and get some well rated ratchet tie downs. Be sure to check that your trailer has anchor points and that your tie downs are long enough to reach your equipment. Good luck and welcome to GTT. Bob in Yakima Washington :)
 

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Welcome to GTT! I would suggest you get a trailer that is at least 6' X 12'. I bought a 5' X 10' tilt trailer and I can haul my 1026R on it with the FEL but it just fits. I also have a 60" belly mower and it will not fit on the trailer between the 5' tire fenders. I've had this tractor since 2012 and I've had to take it into the shop three times for belly mower broken parts. This last time, JD beefed up the rear draft/lift arm and it should be good from now on. Don't get me wrong, my 1026R has been an excellent tractor. I got one of the first 1026Rs. There are always new model bugs to work out. You are benefiting from our early user experience. You'll need to get ramps or a tilt trailer to load your unit. Don't cheap on the tie downs. Shop around and get some well rated ratchet tie downs. Be sure to check that your trailer has anchor points and that your tie downs are long enough to reach your equipment. Good luck and welcome to GTT. Bob in Yakima Washington :)
Thank you !! I appreciate your effort and good ideas! I was thinking to buy 7'x16' but I think is to long. But also I was thinking to put the mower first and then the tractor with the loader and BH on it.
 

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Hi. I'm new to the forum but Thank God I found you guys. So much stuff to learn. I just purchased a new tractor but I still have a week till they deliver the 54" mower to the dealer. I need a trailer but I don't know what kind and how to load it. It's my first tractor and I havee no ideas. Please help !!!
With FILB, I would suggest at least a 16' trailer, with ramps or tilt trailer, always load the tractor backwards, ensure to secure properly when hauling
 

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I have a 7x16. Needed the extra for the rotary cutter. Mine has substantial ramps for the loading. You will need these. The fold down gates may not hold the weight when loading.

Be very careful with straps. Get the heaviest you can. Bring some canvas or a towel with you and some duct tape. Tie the tractor down at the frame in front and the backhoe support in back. Then tie down the loader and backhoe independently. Be very careful on the routing of the straps. Assume anything within 3" is a knife edge, most are. Use the canvas or towel to protect the straps from cutting. I didn't and I cut 3 straps 3/4 of the way through by the time I was home.

Tie wrap the excess strap together. I didn't on my UTV delivery and the loose end unraveled and got pulled under the tire, destroying the ratchet and compromising the load at 70 MPH.
 

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Welcome to GTT! I would suggest you get a trailer that is at least 6' X 12'. I bought a 5' X 10' tilt trailer and I can haul my 1026R on it with the FEL but it just fits. I also have a 60" belly mower and it will not fit on the trailer between the 5' tire fenders. I've had this tractor since 2012 and I've had to take it into the shop three times for belly mower broken parts. This last time, JD beefed up the rear draft/lift arm and it should be good from now on. Don't get me wrong, my 1026R has been an excellent tractor. I got one of the first 1026Rs. There are always new model bugs to work out. You are benefiting from our early user experience. You'll need to get ramps or a tilt trailer to load your unit. Don't cheap on the tie downs. Shop around and get some well rated ratchet tie downs. Be sure to check that your trailer has anchor points and that your tie downs are long enough to reach your equipment. Good luck and welcome to GTT. Bob in Yakima Washington :)

Hi Barry!

How do you like the new better rear draft arms? Thinking of upgrading mine. Are they stronger? Quieter?

Did they fit good?

Phil
 

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16 foot tandom car hauler type would be the shortest, I'd get and have 18 foot. You won't notice the difference towing it, the extra room is nice. You have a little room to position the tractor on trailer to get the weight balanced. Mine seems to tow best when I drive forward enough to put a load on the front of the trailer, just enough to make the truck squat a little, too far back takes the weight off the tongue and the trailer fishtails and is less stable. My trailer dealer also said 16 was kind of short for a car hauler for resale most people wanted 18 foot for hauling cars.
 

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Get the 7x16 or 7x18 trailer with dull wheels electric brakes and built in ramps with brace. The brace keeps the trailer from lifting when driving on.
You may want to put your tractor on with the FEL and Rotary deck so the longer trailer will work better.
I bought a 7x18 for my 1025R and it work well. I got it used in the classifies save a bunch of cash.
I now have a 3033R with a FEL and Rotary deck and it just makes it.
Remember you need a truck to tow the trailer with the weight of the tractor and equipment. Sway bars my be needed.
 
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Hi. I'm new to the forum but Thank God I found you guys. So much stuff to learn. I just purchased a new tractor but I still have a week till they deliver the 54" mower to the dealer. I need a trailer but I don't know what kind and how to load it. It's my first tractor and I havee no ideas. Please help !!!
Here is mine. 7x18 dove tail rated at 10,000 but actually at 7500lbs. I have forks on the front and have loaded the bucket for use later with the post hole digger on the back. This should give you an idea of what you are looking at. I can put the backhoe on and still have plenty of room on the back. The truck is a 2015 Silverado 2500HD with the Duramax 6.6 diesel and Allison transmission. The tractor is a 1026R.
 

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Remember you need a truck to tow the trailer with the weight of the tractor and equipment. Sway bars my be needed.
Weight is something I've seen a lot of first time tractor owners forget. The weight quoted it the dealer brochure is typically DRY weight; just the machine, no attachments, no dirt, and no fluids. Most of the fluids on your machine will weigh about 2 pounds per quart. Don't forget to add the weight of your attachments and any other accessories. I usually add an extra 10% to my total just to be safe.

When you look at trailers, they will be rated by GVWR; Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the total weight of the entire loaded trailer. In order to determine the true capacity of a trailer, you must subtract the weight of the empty trailer from the GVWR. For example, a 7000 pound GVWR trailer that itself weighs 2000 pounds can carry 5000 pounds. I usually factor another 10% margin of error. Anything above 4000 GVWR should have brakes too.

As far as the size of the trailer, deck space you don't need can be left empty but deck space you don't have is worthless. It's not like an extra foot or two is going to suddenly make the trailer impossible to handle. Get a 7x18, you'll be able to use it for a wider range of other things.

Towing capacity is a funny number and up until this model year the way manufacturers determined it was different for each car company. Also, just because the brochure says it can tow up to 4000 pounds does not mean you should try it! You need a full-sized truck or SUV that is equipt with a towing package; typically an upgraded oil and transmission cooler in addition to the hitch. Check the rating on your hitch and ball too. It would be a shame to wreck your new truck, trailer, and tractor because you wanted to save $15 and got the cheap 4000 pound rated ball from Walmart.

When you pick out straps, they also have ratings on them. You'll typically see working strength (the true capacity of the strap) and breaking strength (a number you do not want to exceed). No harm ever came from over strapping with straps that were too heavy duty. Watch for chafe points and tie the strap ends up and away from the wheels of the trailer. The dealer should help you load your tractor and give you tips on strapping it down. A lot of newer machines have specific tiedown points.

Good luck!
 

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008.jpg 020 (2).jpg

This is what I use, 16' with hydraulic brakes. Would not go any shorter and without brakes. It will also give you a chance to balance your tongue weight. :thumbup1gif:
 
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While a shorter trailer may work for hauling just the tractor, I recommend getting a 18 or 20' car/equipment trailer which will have room for the tractor plus a few attachments.
 

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One other thing with trailers is check your insurance. My tractor insurance does not cover it during transport and neither does your auto policy. I had to get a seperate policy to cover the trailer and tractor during transport.
 
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If I may add an item to the trailer value list. Trailer sides solid or removable . My 7 x 16 with low steel sides works great for moving my 1025R with backhoe and loader. The low sides makes it great for carrying up to 5 yards of mulch or less crushed stone or top soil to the home site. A load of lumber is easy to tie down also. This adds value to my user list. Payload is rated at 4850 lbs. 2 axle with brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Weight is something I've seen a lot of first time tractor owners forget. The weight quoted it the dealer brochure is typically DRY weight; just the machine, no attachments, no dirt, and no fluids. Most of the fluids on your machine will weigh about 2 pounds per quart. Don't forget to add the weight of your attachments and any other accessories. I usually add an extra 10% to my total just to be safe.

When you look at trailers, they will be rated by GVWR; Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the total weight of the entire loaded trailer. In order to determine the true capacity of a trailer, you must subtract the weight of the empty trailer from the GVWR. For example, a 7000 pound GVWR trailer that itself weighs 2000 pounds can carry 5000 pounds. I usually factor another 10% margin of error. Anything above 4000 GVWR should have brakes too.

As far as the size of the trailer, deck space you don't need can be left empty but deck space you don't have is worthless. It's not like an extra foot or two is going to suddenly make the trailer impossible to handle. Get a 7x18, you'll be able to use it for a wider range of other things.

Towing capacity is a funny number and up until this model year the way manufacturers determined it was different for each car company. Also, just because the brochure says it can tow up to 4000 pounds does not mean you should try it! You need a full-sized truck or SUV that is equipt with a towing package; typically an upgraded oil and transmission cooler in addition to the hitch. Check the rating on your hitch and ball too. It would be a shame to wreck your new truck, trailer, and tractor because you wanted to save $15 and got the cheap 4000 pound rated ball from Walmart.

When you pick out straps, they also have ratings on them. You'll typically see working strength (the true capacity of the strap) and breaking strength (a number you do not want to exceed). No harm ever came from over strapping with straps that were too heavy duty. Watch for chafe points and tie the strap ends up and away from the wheels of the trailer. The dealer should help you load your tractor and give you tips on strapping it down. A lot of newer machines have specific tiedown points.

Good luck!
I have a good truck. Brand new 2015 2500 Dodge Ram Laramie Mega Cab Diesel. Cummins engine. I made sure first that I get a good truck then I got a good tractor but still looking for the trailer.
 

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We use an 18' aluminum car hauler for moving our 1025R FILB & 3038E. Definitely would not want something smaller than 16' with the 1025R. Extra length is a big plus for getting the right weight distribution with varying attachments being hauled. Definitely get brakes on both axles and a decent brake controller.

For tie down, I really prefer chains & binders - one chain & binder for each corner. I also like to have a number of 24" - 36" axle straps available, they give you more attachment point options without having the chains grinding on something. Just pick a set that meet/exceed the WLL of the chains used. Our trailer has rails around the perimeter & the axle straps are also good for creating additional, secondary, tie points there for additional items without causing damage. You can get 20' grade 70 chains at Lowes for a reasonable price. Get two, cut in half & add a couple of grab hooks to get a set of 4.

Nick
 
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Now that everyone here has spent your money it's time to get your trailer. Just remember we like pics here too. Was going to add about trailers but I believe everything has been covered. :bigthumb:
 

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Belly Mower Upgrade

Hi Barry!

How do you like the new better rear draft arms? Thinking of upgrading mine. Are they stronger? Quieter?

Did they fit good?

Phil
Hello Phil, I'm very pleased with the beefer draft arm. It's too bad JD didn't catch this during their R&D. Sorry, I don't have pictures of the broken part. It snapped about 2-3" from the end of the bolt. I didn't even know it had broken off until I saw it laying in the grass. I could have welded it. I figure the other side would be going too, so I upgraded it. I'm mowing two acres of grass. It's not pool table flat but nothing that should cause the mower to break with only 304 hours on it. It cost right at $300 to repair it. Because the new lift arm is thicker, your old straps will NOT fit it. You'll have to order four new straps and two bushings. Here are the new JD part numbers: LVA20039 Lift Arm $167.66; two R276819 Bushing $4.13; and four LVU29616 $97.60. It was a simple change over. My deck cut fine before the break and after changing over to the new upgrade, it cut the same. I didn't mess with adjusting the deck left/right front to rear. My 60D belly mower is the Auto Connect version. I still have the installation instructions sheet when I first bought it. They were not needed because I just put everything back on the way it came off. I hope this helps :)
 

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I've been more than satisfied with the choice to go with an 18' equipment trailer with brakes on both axles vs a utility trailer style. The biggest turn off to most utilities I looked at where in the rear gates. These things weigh substantially more than they look with loaded tires and a backhoe attached. The steel mesh on most gates would just break from their welds as you drive on a few times. And a dove tail/ ramp setup is perfectly angled to allow a MMM to drive right on no issues.
 

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