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Discussion Starter #1
I have a trailer where the bed is about 2 feet of the ground. It is a car trailer that has 54 inch long ramps, and the ramps are stored in the back of the trailer and are at bed height so when using them there is gap in the floor.

So besides being really carefull to straddle the gap when loading my tractor the ramps are too steep to have my back blade on the 3 point when loading. The back Blade hits the ground before the rear tires are near the ramps, and the top link was adjusted to give me maximum clearance.

What length ramps would I need to be able to load my tractor with back blade, tiller or any other attachment for that matter?

I was thinking about getting a pair that was 96 inches and had a weight capacity of 3000 punds.

Garden Tractor Ramps
 

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Those arch ramps should work fine. Usually ramps on the 7000gvw trailers are 4 or 5'ers. Something I do when loading my tractor and tiller, I put the PTO selector in the mid mount setting. That puts the rear PTO in neutral or free wheel.
 

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My trailer is 20" up and I use a pair of 2" x 12"x 8' red oak planks for my 2520 and they work fine with the back hoe or the 403 brush hog. A lot cheaper than any steel ramp I have seen
 

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Shim your ramps

You can carry material to shim your ramps to decrease the angle for loading and unloading
Cheaper and easier than buying longer and more expensive aluminum ramps
You can use 2' x 10' or 2' x 12' planks to extend your ramps and 4" x 4" posts to shim underneath





jim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've been using some temporary metal panels to make my ramps longer. Finally bought some ramps.

I went with the 84 inch, 3000 lbs rated ramps.

I didn't totally trust them so I used some jack stands for a test, placed them so if the ramps would start to bend the jack stands would catch them. Worked very good, jack stands were not needed.

The shipping from discountramps.com was very fast, got them in 1 day.

 

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Why even use ramps at all? Whenever possible I simply back my trailer up to a ditch or berm so that I can drive the tractor straight onto the trailer.

A trick I have used for loading cars and other low approach angle vehicles is to back the trailer up to a curb so the ramps are up on the lawn. This method tends to block traffic but it also raises the ground end of the ramps nearly a foot and decreases the ramp's angle.

Another trick you can try is to drive the back tires of the tow vehicle up onto some blocks which will lower the back of the trailer and decrease your ramp angle.
 

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Why even use ramps at all? Whenever possible I simply back my trailer up to a ditch or berm so that I can drive the tractor straight onto the trailer.

A trick I have used for loading cars and other low approach angle vehicles is to back the trailer up to a curb so the ramps are up on the lawn. This method tends to block traffic but it also raises the ground end of the ramps nearly a foot and decreases the ramp's angle.

Another trick you can try is to drive the back tires of the tow vehicle up onto some blocks which will lower the back of the trailer and decrease your ramp angle.
Although your ideas here work, you will have to have the same situation when unloading/loading.. I always find a way to load on flat level surface so when I get to the destanation I dont have to search for something or somewhere to unload.
 
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