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Just curious.. what RPM do you typically run your engine at?

When using FEL?

When using BH?

When Mowing?


Thanks
FEL: Most of the time I run it around 2800. I really don't look at the rpm's but I know it's high so the response time is better. I know JD says to run it at 3200 and I've tried that to help with my floppy bucket but I could not see a big difference so I decrease rpm somewhat. Using the FEL is different with me. You really only need the high rpm's when you are digging, loading, lifting, etc., then you are moving to another location so you don't need the engine screaming while transporting the load.

BH: I run it around 2400 to 2600. I wouldn't mind running it at full throttle if I was just a little more coordinated on the controls. I'm getting there, but not yet.

Mowing: Full throttle
 

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I hardly ever come off of idle when using the FEL. Maybe 2000 sometimes. With the BH its MAX 2000 for me, better control. When I take the trash out to the road, I will travel at say 2000 to 2200. Mowing and bush hogging, I follow the mark and maintain about 2000/525 at the PTO.
 

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Just curious.. what RPM do you typically run your engine at?

When using FEL?

When using BH?

When Mowing?
HoneyDew,

I was using the FEL to remove a layer of sod and a layer of black hardpan in an area of the yard that was getting very soft yesterday. The recent rains had soaked through the sod and settled on top of the hardpan. I am replacing the hardpan with beach sand and then reinstalling the sod. The tractor was working in mud and almost got stuck a couple of times as I dug out the sod. Still, I never had the throttle at more than 2,000 RPM or so. This was a tough job for JD but it went pretty well, all things considered.

I mow at 2,800 to 3,200 RPM depending on how far I want to blow the clippings. Sometimes my D60 is as much a blower as it is a mower ... I guess you could call it a mower/blower.
 

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HoneyDew, 1026R tractor?
 

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usually max is about 2000 rpms..... occasionally Ill run it to about 2500 with the foot throttle when making speed over ground... or to get a running start going up a hill, so I don't have to down shift to make the hill


bob
 

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I don't have a BH or mower but I usually just run between 1600 and 1800. I'm not in a rush. :laugh:
 

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Just curious.. what RPM do you typically run your engine at?

When using FEL?

When using BH?

When Mowing?


Thanks
FEL = 2800rpm 99% of the time. When I haul dirt from the pit its about 400' from where it ends up. When I cross the creek its almost vertical on one side and I need that much rpm to climb it. Covering that much ground the added speed also helps.

BH = Varies. If I am scraping at the beginning of the slope then I am @ 2200 to help avoid going too deep. Middle 2500 & end 2700. When digging up stumps I am @ 2800 unless its precision work where I don't want the bucket speed.

Mowing = 3000rpm if I am 6ft tall ragweed or 2' tall mahaya or the front lawn. In the rough stuff I mow 2.5ft in then go over it again every row to make it look like carpet with the mulch kit.
 

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If Im mowing I run at PTO speed. Im rarely in a hurry like to enjoy the seat time. Loader maybe 2000 and just putting around the yard about 14 or 1500 just sounds nice at that speed.
 

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usually max is about 2000 rpms..... occasionally Ill run it to about 2500 with the foot throttle when making speed over ground... or to get a running start going up a hill, so I don't have to down shift to make the hill


bob
With the hydrostatic we no longer have the foot throttle luxury.
 

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I'm usually around 1500-1800. Lower when using the BH. When going down the hwy at our deere lease to get from one side to the other pasture (6 miles) I'm wide open which I think is 2800.
 

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FEL varies 22-25 sometimes 2800

BH majority of the time 22-2400

mmm most of the time 26-2800 if in very tall or damp grass maybe 3000 Once at 3200 for maybe 200'
 

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No set RPM for me. I set it for the task and load at hand, adjust as needed. Mowing is the only exception. That's when the throttle gets pushed right to the stop.:thumbup1gif:
 

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I prefer to run as slow as possible and still get the job done. Less wasted fuel, less wear on moving parts, and nice when it's quiet enough not to have to wear ear protection. For most of my loader work and driving over rough ground, 2000~2200 RPM is usually plenty. When blowing snow, perhaps 2500~2800 unless it's very heavy, in which case 3000~3200. Blower shakes a lot at the high speeds when not moving snow, but runs smoother when working.

BUT - threads on several forums warn that speed below some level allows cavitation in the main hydro pump, leading to metal erosion and early failure. Anyone here know if this applies to the JD 1-series? And could this be why the idle is set so high at 1500RPM? My previous CUT had about the same size engine, but idled at something like 700 RPM - nice and quiet, and saves a lot of diesel since most of my loader work involves a lot of idling time.
 

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No set RPM for me. I set it for the task and load at hand, adjust as needed. Mowing is the only exception. That's when the throttle gets pushed right to the stop.:thumbup1gif:
Same for me. Mowing with the 1025r is full throttle. Loader work it depends on what I'm what I'm doing. Working close to something I don't really want to hit, lower RPM. Digging in packed dirt, maybe bump the throttle up for a few more RPM to get the pump spinning with some more pressure.
 

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I don't know if this matters or is true but my dealer told me to run it at Max rpm for the first 50 hours. I'm right at 40 now and have had it for about 13 months.
 

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I don't know if this matters or is true but my dealer told me to run it at Max rpm for the first 50 hours. I'm right at 40 now and have had it for about 13 months.
From what I've read...and been told by a master mechanic, I agree. I've stated this in numerous threads in the past, so I hope it doesnt get old to the old timers.
The first few hours on an engine is the most critical for break in.The cross hatch/ honing in the cylinders is still fresh and somewhat abrasive. Use that to your advantage by running it hard and with varying throttle in order to mate the rings to the cylinder. I like to get the engine up to full operating temp for a bit and flog it to about 80+%....let it cool down, repeat to 90%,cool down, then 100% and cool down. Then run it like I stole it. The cool down cycles are important...just in case you have a hot spot in the engine. It also helps in mating the engine components.But if you baby it and run low rpms, you will reach the point where the cross hatch has polished over and the rings will take a long time to seat...if they ever fully seat. The rings can actually eggshell since one side may wear in and the other not so much.The article that I read years ago had pictures of identical engines (more than one pair) that were broken in at the two opposite extremes.The ones babied had significant blowby and there was a significant power increase in the ones broke in hard. I have looked for that article and havent found it. It was written back in early 2000's. It was by either a motorcycle publication or Hot Rod magazine...and printed on line. This is my opinion of how to do the break in. I have to say...that every engine I've broke in like this has never used oil and seems to perform very well.

When I bought my 2009 ford van with the 4.6 L v8, I broke it in this way. I bought it 250 miles away near Texas A&M, The dealership was on I-45. I revved the heck out of the engine as soon as it warmed up ,getting on the on ramp. I would drop it down into a lower gear, often, reving it to 4000+ rpm and then let off the throttle on long downhills...putting engine braking or back pressure on the rings. I did this the whole trip. We stopped for lunch about 100 miles into the trip and then stopped again at 200 miles...to let it cool. I have ridden in vans with the 5.4 litre and I believe my little 4.6 makes as much power. It has never used any oil and the tailpipe is clean internally. Did the same with my BMW gs1200....they are notoriuous for using oil for the first 10,000 miles. Mine hasnt ever used oil.
 

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maybe bump the throttle up for a few more RPM to get the pump spinning with some more pressure.
I don't mean to pick on you, I have seen similar comments recently.

Faster throttle settings do not get you more pressure, just faster movement. The relief valve dictates the max pressure, and that max pressure can be attained at idle.
 

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I don't mean to pick on you, I have seen similar comments recently.

Faster throttle settings do not get you more pressure, just faster movement. The relief valve dictates the max pressure, and that max pressure can be attained at idle.
Yep realized that after I typed it but didn't back to change it in time


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