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And here I thought you were making tank treads for a 1/6th scale Sherman. 🍻 (y)
 

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Woo shed has new doors finally! No more whacking my forehead on the header and no more standing up and taking the slidig latch into the top of my skull. When I opened up the door opening I also made it wider so it wasn't a pita to get my 54HC deck in or my CTA 66" plow. Since I have the intention of buying a larger machine in the near future I figured I might as well make the opening large enough to fit attachments should I desire. New opening is now 7' x 7'.

I totally forgot to take a photo after I sprayed the doors and endcap with exterior primer in preparation for finish paint. The entire exterior of the shed is a few years away from needing full replacement. Last owner had all overgrowth on this thing and it kept the exterior shaded and trapped moisture. Our home is being appraised in a couple weeks for a refi so I figured I might as well make the front of it look as good as it can.

Burned a few loads of brush as well. It was a pleasure to hear the sizzling and cracking as I worked on the shed today.


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

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New opening is now 7' x 7'.


I like the larger opening!

A loosely related question if you don't mind...

Everyone seems to want to form an 'X' with the doors' internal frames. I think that looks great on the face, but on the inside, I always run both supports upwards from the hinges, (parallel to each other) to minimize the chance of sagging. Do you agree that the parallel orientation makes a meaningful difference in real life?
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Decided to get rid of the OE hitch on my cyclone rake and build my own 3-point mount.

It's way too long the way it was... I'll take about 10 inches off the overall length.. not a lot, but with the way that swings, it will help a bunch.
 

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I will be interested to see what others say but I think a triangle is a triangle.
I can't argue with your logic. That actually helps clarify my question. For the angled members, can a tension joint from the top hinge maintain its rigidity as well as a compression joint from the middle hinge? With old school butt joints and nails, probably no? With overlaps, truss plates, or screws, probably yes?
 

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Compression has been the go to for years on this style door.

Gates......probly depends where your from.

Screws ,staples,air tools,glue ,cleats/truss plate things have certainly changed the game.

Gravity is a constant........dealing with Gutters Its quite evident that gravity rules. Unbelievable how far out of whack some new homes are........and built outta wafer wood/sawdust. They will never last the test of time like the houses from the early 1900's.
 

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I will be interested to see what others say but I think a triangle is a triangle.

Yes, a triangle is a triangle but the performance also depends on the material you are using. Wood is much better in compression than tension, especially when fasteners are involved. If you get into some no fastner joinery, I think tension would perform OK but still would default to compression when possible with wood.

Steel is different, depending on the material obviously. Most of the time I think flat stock or light gauge "tie rods" would be better at assisting a wood door from sagging in a tension application. Heavy gauge tubing or angle could hold up much better in a compression application.
 

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I would think, if you are using separate boards (board and batten, tongue in groove) to cover the door frame (meaning NOT sheet goods like ply, osb, t111) that with the angled braces running parallel, up from the hinge side, gravity would tend to want to spread the boards.
(With proper fastening, this is probably unlikely.. but time and gravity always win over anything man-made)

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If I had to run the braces parallel, I would go the other way, and use the compression resistance of the wood.
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I think the braces at 90 degrees, would prevent that... and.. in the above 2, you have 4 triangles, below is 5.
Maybe that is a benefit? (I truly don't know..just guessing)
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Using sheet goods changes the game entirely...
 

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Using separate boards provides very little support, since there is always a gap they are free to move. If you rely on the face boards in compression, the boards will eventually start "cupping" from the pressure and start popping the fasteners out. The frame itself has to support the door/gate on its own. When working with strictly wood, I always start at the bottom hinge and angle up to the outside of the the door/gate. Sheet goods certainly help the entire situation, but I brace the frame the same way with sheet goods or individual boards. Sometimes its (2) parrallel supports (fence/gate) as shown above, and sometimes is one single support all the way to the top (sheet goods). Either way I start at the bottom and end at the top of the door.
 

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I'd add.. if using boards... make sure the joints of the frame/bracing, are not over where the boards meet.
If you stagger those, you can use the strength of the board to augment the strength of the frame joint.
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Made 2 sets of stands to hold plexiglass for a friend of our oldest daughter. Both of them are teachers working with special need students. Made these out of 1 1/2" or less rough cut lumber, of course ran







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them thru the planner , sanded them and the friend can paint , stain or whatever she may wish.
Had a hard time finding some scrap pieces at least 8" W and 12" L .. So 2 from red oak, one from pine and the other is elm or maple.. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Finished making the 3 point adapter for my Cyclone Rake.
I never liked the length nor fit. I had loosened the orginal mounts and forced them over enough to fit the draw bar holes.
Although it worked, and I only use it a few times a year... I just wanted it the way I felt it should be.
It was this...
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I did this with some square tube, a couple Cat 1 pins, and a couple short pieces of angle:
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Only shortened things by about 7"... but it will still help. This thing was LONG.
And, I kept it so that navigating a steep grade (24 degrees) wont cause the blower to bind on the folded ROPS.
(Probably a bad idea... grade/folded ROPS... I know...)
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It's only a bad idea if you get hurt or killed, or the machines suffer serious damage or destruction. :ROFLMAO: 🍻
 

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I'm usually only sorry when I get caught !
 
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