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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new 3039R and am concerned on uneven ground. I have read here about wheel spacers. Is this something I can do myself? If so, where would I get them? Cost? Difficulty?

Thanks!
 

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Ag tractor wheel spacer affecting warranty

Regarding spacers, the first inquiry should be to a JD dealer inquiring about affects on warranty and any opinions from the service department as to affects on rear axle. On my last 970 model, the rims were reversible to gain extra width, so this is not a new concept and I am sure JD has an opinion. Its even possible JD has the spacers, if the warranty is not affected.
 

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Spacers

I have a 1026R :greentractorride: and added 2" spacers in the front and 4" in the back. (You need to check for clearance when deciding the thickness of the fronts.) I lost a front seal shortly after adding the front spacers. Nearly everyone here swore it was the spacers, I wasn't convinced. Replaced the seal and no problem since . . . That was a couple years back. I believe I saw that JD sells spacers now. I've been pleased.

IMG_3987.JPG

Marlin :cowboy:
 

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Deere has spacers for the new 2 series. Thwy even push them in the videos about them. I ordered some BORA spacers from a place in Nevada haven't installed them yet, cost 150$ the ones for the new 2 series are around 275.
 

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I have the BORA / MotorSport Tech 2" aluminum spacers on my 3720, yes they are expensive but 100% made in the USA with USA materials on USA machines. Very easy to install if you can change a tire and have a torque wrench:

View attachment 428842

View attachment 428850

View attachment 428874

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X2 on these. Same ones on my 3039r. Dealer had no issues, even installed them for me when filling the tires. It says to check the bolts after 10hrs which would be a pita with filled tires. Just used a sharpie to index the hubs and spacer bolts and they haven't move in 40hrs of use.
 

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Wheel spacers

JD offers spacers for the 4 series...they add about 11 inches to the overall width and other than having to be more careful of what I might run over due to the extra width they work reallly well. My tractor is much more stable on my hilly lot. Worth the money and they were installed by my dealer before delivery. Don't know what they weigh but made of cast iron....gotta be a couple hundred pounds to help the ballast situation as well.
dockw in CT
 

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Hiya,

Deere sells a spacer kit for the 4 series that fits on the 3 series as well. They are cast iron, made in India, not solid but a thick wall casting. The kit includes bolts w/ flat washers to bolt the spacers to the axle flanges and lug bolts for the wheels.

Now, for the details. Deere originally offered these for sale for the 3 series but later said that in accelerated wear testing, premature wear was noticed. Well, that would seem to be the definitive statement on spacer use on the 3 series.... Not so fast. If you look in the manual, you will see the min/max width of various tire/rim combinations. The 4 series spacers adds about 5-1/2" to each side for a total of 11" The maximum width of R1 equipped tractors is 68.4" and the minimum width of an R3 equipped tractor is 53.9" for a difference of..... ~14 inches. OK, if your still with me, if you have a R3 equipped tractor, and you put the Deere spacers on with the wheels in the narrow position, (Schrader valve out) you would be about the same width as an R1 equipped tractor at maximum. (given that the R3's are a bit wider than the R1) Since the distance from the flange to the center line of the tire is roughly the same, the wear on the final drive should be the same.

The point in the above paragraph is that Deere conducting "Accelerated wear testing" and then noticing accelerated wear may not reflect the wear was caused by the addition of the spacers, it could have been caused by the accelerated wear testing itself. AWT is designed to stress components above anticipated loadings/cycles/abuse in order to simulate a lifetime of wear in days or weeks.

Now to lawyer up, I'm not telling you it's still going to be covered by warranty if you bolt on a pair of spacers and you carry around the maximum load on your 3pt all the time your using your tractor, I'm just saying that the bearings in the final drive were designed to stand up to width of the R1's at the maximum width setting, if your spacers with your tires are no more than that wide, it "should" be just fine. The simple theory here is a lever is a lever, the final drive doesn't know what is bolted together to make the lever, keep your lever no longer than the longest lever Deere designed to and everything's happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the BORA / MotorSport Tech 2" aluminum spacers on my 3720, yes they are expensive but 100% made in the USA with USA materials on USA machines. Very easy to install if you can change a tire and have a torque wrench:

View attachment 428842

View attachment 428850

View attachment 428874

View attachment 428882


Kenny, for the terminally stupid, the BORA web site shows $202 each. Is that each side or each pair? One more question, can you, ands is it wise to just widen the rear axle and not the front, or should you do both?

Thanks for answering my stupid questions.
 
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Kenny, for the terminally stupid, the BORA web site shows $202 each. Is that each side or each pair? One more question, can you, ands is it wise to just widen the rear axle and not the front, or should you do both?

Thanks for answering my stupid questions.
Not stupid questions, please don't say that here!

Each is "each", so yes you need two-and the mounting hardware is included. Why they are not sold in pairs is beyond me :dunno:

Since the front axle pivots, widening/adding spacers to the front will do nothing to add to stability until AFTER the pivot stops are reached, and that's pretty far. My opinion is that front spacers are not needed.


Sorry about the two attachments above I messed up, I think if you click on them they do work however.
 

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It says to check the bolts after 10hrs which would be a pita with filled tires.
I thought same about filled tires but once I took them off my 3320 I found they are pretty easy to move around and reattach to the tractor. Just don't let them fall over or you may need several people to get them upright again!
 

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It says to check the bolts after 10hrs which would be a pita with filled tires. Just used a sharpie to index the hubs and spacer bolts and they haven't move in 40hrs of use.
The hubs/wheel can loosen from metal surface compression even if the bolt heads appear not to move. This is especially true with loader mount bolts. You've reminded me that I am past due for double checking my spacers.
 
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8" increase for 4 Series Tractor - no cost

I have a new 3039R and am concerned on uneven ground. I have read here about wheel spacers. Is this something I can do myself? If so, where would I get them? Cost? Difficulty?

Thanks!
Moving the rear wheels (left to right side and right to left side) increases the rear tire width by 8" for R4 tires. Nothing to buy. Remember the tires are heavy!
 

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Moving the rear wheels (left to right side and right to left side) increases the rear tire width by 8" for R4 tires. Nothing to buy. Remember the tires are heavy!
8"? For R4's? On a 3-Series? Are you sure about that? I'm pretty sure it's more like 1"


Oh, and Welcome to GTT :good2:
 

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8"? For R4's? On a 3-Series? Are you sure about that? I'm pretty sure it's more like 1"


Oh, and Welcome to GTT :good2:
I concur, think Deere says 1.5" more flipped. Maybe he meant R1's.
 
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I have a new 3039R and am concerned on uneven ground. I have read here about wheel spacers. Is this something I can do myself? If so, where would I get them? Cost? Difficulty?

Thanks!
Page 14-4 in the 3E series manual says the wider stance on the front reduces axle life and shouldn't be used with a loader.


Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
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2CB29954-5AC0-41D8-8A91-5C91CD088070.jpg

I put 2 inch on my 3046r
 

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I bought the steel version (2") at Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings for your car! | Motorsport Tech

However, would buy the Alu instead. Reason is corrosion, after less than a year they look like this, see pic. Expected a coating on them but apparantly not. I think I have to take them off, clean and paint.

View attachment 565673
The ones on my tractor look exactly like yours but no rust. A person on this site gave them to me. I thought they were steel also, weighted 25 lbs, but dealer told me they are alum. Forgot to go the magnet trick before install. 6BF34C2F-C506-48FE-BE8B-BB46F6C06F30.jpg 2B43EF17-E409-441D-8825-11A57159752D.jpg
 
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