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Hello,

I'm looking to add wheel weights to my 1025, but I find the Deere website a bit confusing. I'm looking for iron as opposed to plastic, bit I'm not sure which set to buy. Do I need the 70 starter and add a 50? Or are the two 50's an alternative to the 70? I've never used wheel weights in the past, which is amusing because they're so commonplace even amongst lawn and garden tractors.
 

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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I have the 70's on mine.

781900
 

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The 70s are probably the best choice. But the 50s work just fine without the 70lb ” starter weight “. I have 2 sets of 50lbs weights on my tractor. I only went the 50 weights because I got a good deal on used weights. i don’t think the plastic weights are stackable, so I’d stay away from those unless you are sure one set is all you need.
 

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I have the 70's on mine.

View attachment 781900
Same here. I also bought a pair of 50's to put on it but didn't get around to adding them before I decided to trade for a 2025. If you add 50's to the 72's, I recommend using all-threads so you can bolt the 72's on first and then attach the 50's to it with extra nuts and washers.
Here is an excellent thread on the subject:
1026R Wheel Weight Issue

The 70s are probably the best choice. But the 50s work just fine without the 70lb ” starter weight “. I have 2 sets of 50lbs weights on my tractor. I only went the 50 weights because I got a good deal on used weights. i don’t think the plastic weights are stackable, so I’d stay away from those unless you are sure one set is all you need.
I absolutely second that concerning the concrete filled plastic coated ones - there are (several) reports of the plastic cracking and crumbled concrete leaking out.
Can you post pics of yours? I am having trouble wrapping my head around how you did that since the JD 50's are taller than the inside of the rims...
 

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Sears plastic weights are stackable.

I run 2x 52 lb weights on my tractors with 12” rims.

There have been several posts where the72/50 combo doesn’t line up properly to get to the valve stem, so there’s some risk there.
 

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There have been several posts where the72/50 combo doesn’t line up properly to get to the valve stem, so there’s some risk there.
The link I posted deals with that issue. You have to mount the starters and the 50's on the same bolt so you can access the valve stems from the notch in the 50's. That is why I recommend using all-threads.

Also, I forget to mention earlier that you can put 2 50 lb. weights on each wheel in addition to the starter weights. (also discussed in that thread) 172 pounds should improve traction some... But a small footprint can only be improved so much.
 

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Same here. I also bought a pair of 50's to put on it but didn't get around to adding them before I decided to trade for a 2025. If you add 50's to the 72's, I recommend using all-threads so you can bolt the 72's on first and then attach the 50's to it with extra nuts and washers.
Here is an excellent thread on the subject:
1026R Wheel Weight Issue


I absolutely second that concerning the concrete filled plastic coated ones - there are (several) reports of the plastic cracking and crumbled concrete leaking out.
Can you post pics of yours? I am having trouble wrapping my head around how you did that since the JD 50's are taller than the inside of the rims...
782088
782089
 

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If you add 50's to the 72's, I recommend using all-threads so you can bolt the 72's on first and then attach the 50's to it with extra nuts and washers.
As I have mentioned a time or two on threads around here somewhere, I am a visual type thinker and learner. So in that vein, and because I had my tractor handy, I thought I would put together a graphic explanation of the above post just in case it might help someone at some point in the future... So, here goes:

782106

These are the 72 pound starter weights on my 1023E. Notice those dark things that look like threaded holes? Well, FORGET ABOUT THEM!!! They are only there to confuse you! Tell your brain that they are a glitch in the matrix or something. 'Cause if you try to use them to mount the 50# weights you will block the valve stem.

782107

This is how the 72# weight mounts - the bolt heads are on the outside and the nuts on the inside. Remember this for later.

782109

Noticed what happens when you line up the mounting holes on the 50# weight with those of the 72# weight - the notch in the 50 lines up with the valve stem! (using a valve stem extension would make it more convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary)

782110

So here is where the 1/2 inch all-thread comes in. One end goes through the wheel in place of the bolt that hold the 72# now - I figured it would make things easier if I used a jam nut at the inside of the wheel. The first nut & washer will hold the 72# onto the wheel just like the current bolt does. Then evenly tighten those nuts until the 72# is tight - this way you won't have to try to get 122 pounds all lined up at the same time. Then you can use a floor jack to lift the 50# up and onto the all-threads - keeping the jack under it until it is nested to the starter weight. Tighten the outside nuts real well, I would use a lock washer and/or a jam nut and/or loc-tite. Then cut off the excess all-thread... UNLESS, you intend to add another 50#, then trim it after that.

I hope this makes sense - please let me know if I need to try to clarify anything, since English is not my first language (West Texan is my primary 😜).
 

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I too skipped the jd hardware and used a mix of all thread a carriage bolts to mount my weights. It’s been so long since I put my weights on I am not exactly sure how I did it. It was my intention to remove the wheel weights for mowing my lawn. But they seem to do more good than harm so I haven’t removed them in years.
 

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I have 2-72* starters and 2-50* add ons. - use carriage bolts cut to the right length two hold both weights. First I put starter weight in and snug it up, then make sure it’s centered and tighten a nut and washer. Next I slide 50* add on weight on remainder of bolts and tighten up. Two bolts per wheel for both weights. Everything lines up for valve stem too.
782182
 

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As I have mentioned a time or two on threads around here somewhere, I am a visual type thinker and learner. So in that vein, and because I had my tractor handy, I thought I would put together a graphic explanation of the above post just in case it might help someone at some point in the future... So, here goes:

View attachment 782106
These are the 72 pound starter weights on my 1023E. Notice those dark things that look like threaded holes? Well, FORGET ABOUT THEM!!! They are only there to confuse you! Tell your brain that they are a glitch in the matrix or something. 'Cause if you try to use them to mount the 50# weights you will block the valve stem.

View attachment 782107
This is how the 72# weight mounts - the bolt heads are on the outside and the nuts on the inside. Remember this for later.

View attachment 782109
Noticed what happens when you line up the mounting holes on the 50# weight with those of the 72# weight - the notch in the 50 lines up with the valve stem! (using a valve stem extension would make it more convenient, but it is not absolutely necessary)

View attachment 782110
So here is where the 1/2 inch all-thread comes in. One end goes through the wheel in place of the bolt that hold the 72# now - I figured it would make things easier if I used a jam nut at the inside of the wheel. The first nut & washer will hold the 72# onto the wheel just like the current bolt does. Then evenly tighten those nuts until the 72# is tight - this way you won't have to try to get 122 pounds all lined up at the same time. Then you can use a floor jack to lift the 50# up and onto the all-threads - keeping the jack under it until it is nested to the starter weight. Tighten the outside nuts real well, I would use a lock washer and/or a jam nut and/or loc-tite. Then cut off the excess all-thread... UNLESS, you intend to add another 50#, then trim it after that.

I hope this makes sense - please let me know if I need to try to clarify anything, since English is not my first language (West Texan is my primary 😜).
Just curious if you know the overall length used? I want to use stainless carriage bolts instead of all thread. I use mine to plow snow too and don’t want them rusting on. Thanks in advance of you able to come up with it. Great post by the way!
 

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I did know at one time, but that was years ago and I have trouble remembering yesterday these days... IIRC I bought four 12 inch all threads and I had to cut a couple of inches (may have been more) off of them after I got everything tight.

One of the reasons I used all threads was so that I could tighten up the starter weights (in other words completely install them, and leave the nuts on them) which made installing the 50 pounders much easier.
 

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The 70 pound starter weights are not meant to be stacked. It could probably be done but it wouldn't be stable & would stick out 18 to 24 inches past the outside of the tire. When I bought those I had Deere offered mounting hardware for the starter plus two 50's per side. There are several pictures somewhere here on GTT of that setup and those stick out quite a ways. In theory you could put as many 50 pounders on it as you want...
 
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