Green Tractor Talk banner

41 - 60 of 97 Posts

Registered
Joined
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
On further reveiw....

The top /bottom.....are fine.

Its the Bird splattter up the sides that makes it All look bad.

I've learned to "stitch" in my vertical welds as taught to me by a pro...it works.
Otherwise I need to position the parts flat/level to get a good result

Seeing is a big issue for me anyway.....the auto hood makes a big difference
Thanks!

The forks were taken off today and I looked close at the back of at least the left? weld from my latest picture, and I could see heat discoloration, like a ford blue oval in the metal. (maybe 1 inch wide). On both sides.
That also proves those, I think most important structurally, are okay. The weld to the top of the square tubing I do not see any discoloration, but I need a better flashlight.

And my stitching the gap is truly ugly and I'll just grind a flat spot on the side and weld a rectangular gusset plate on.
I think I had the welder set at a high voltage (and high current), and at this point that sounds wrong? I'll be using the manual to set the welder before my next weld.
I screwed that up too.
 

Registered
Joined
6,090 Posts
Thanks!

The forks were taken off today and I looked close at the back of at least the left? weld from my latest picture, and I could see heat discoloration, like a ford blue oval in the metal. (maybe 1 inch wide). On both sides.
That also proves those, I think most important structurally, are okay. The weld to the top of the square tubing I do not see any discoloration, but I need a better flashlight.

And my stitching the gap is truly ugly and I'll just grind a flat spot on the side and weld a rectangular gusset plate on.
I think I had the welder set at a high voltage (and high current), and at this point that sounds wrong? I'll be using the manual to set the welder before my next weld.
I screwed that up too.
My hat's off to the OP for being willing to throw pix out and invite criticism/suggestions. Even more importantly, he's been willing to accept and learn from the suggestions from those good people who offer solid information on how to improve.

I haven't done any welding for a very long time but followed the thread as I'd like to get a welder and do a bit when I retire. I appreciate all the informational suggestions but will try to remember to not post pix of my crappy welds. One thing I am looking forward to is the auto darkening helmets. I always felt like a blind man starting an arc with the old style, just hoping it was in the right spot. Some things have improved over time.

Treefarmer
 

Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
38,464 Posts
One thing I am looking forward to is the auto darkening helmets. I always felt like a blind man starting an arc with the old style, just hoping it was in the right spot. Some things have improved over time.
Sort of funny, I'm at the other end. I see no need for an auto darkening helmet but I can see the benefit to them with a new welder.
I think I started to weld at about 12 or 13, 50 some years ago.
 

Registered
Joined
2,474 Posts
Sort of funny, I'm at the other end. I see no need for an auto darkening helmet but I can see the benefit to them with a new welder.
I think I started to weld at about 12 or 13, 50 some years ago.
ha ha...if you learn with goggles its hard to get use to the auto darkening helmets, at least for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2 and rydplrs

Registered
Joined
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Can someone respond to the SSQA pin issue? I don't want attachements falling off because the SSQA is not 'latching' right.

Beyond the welding, I'm a little nervous about the latching pin relationship to the plate. It seems overly extended from the carrier tube. Back dragging might be an adventure. Looks like the quick attach adapter came that way. Maybe I'm wrong, too.

On my SSQA, the first iteration didn't have the pins protrude through the plate far enough. I found out when my snowblower got hung up and, when I backed out of the situation, I left the 50" blower dangling and half the shaft flailing on my front PTO. A redesign got the pins to more securely anchor the plate in place.
You have a good eye. There is some kind of issue with these latching pins. it seems to me that for a real positive engagement that the pin should engage past the beveled part. If one presses down on the bucket and back drags the pin will disengage, and that tells me something isn't right. I don't know what the problem or the solution is here ( except it has nothing to do with my welds ).
Actually my first scoop (of loose black dirt) with the SSQA adapterized bucket and it fell off because the pins disengaged.

If the pin engaged past the bevel I think it would hold firmly. I am not sure if that is how they should be.

If the bevel on the pin would be at the same angle as the slot in the adapter plate, it would make a lot bigger area of contact, and maybe that would hold better.

I really don't know what is going on with these pins and how far they should really engage.
 

Registered
Joined
32 Posts
Can someone respond to the SSQA pin issue?
You鈥檙e being myopic and ignoring all the information you don鈥檛 like, which is that the whole assembly is going to be on the ground when your work product fails. Whether the attachment is still attached will be a secondary matter.

Perhaps most importantly is that all these issues should be solvable by you, else you shouldn鈥檛 be tackling them. Groupthink doesn鈥檛 get the job done. That should be apparent by the whacko responses to welding technicalities. After all, you鈥檙e in a tractor forum, not a welding forum.

If you really wanted to get better, you鈥檇 be practicing, not asking for validation.
 

Registered
Joined
3,941 Posts
Some people just like being Negative Nancys rather that be helpful. Can you take some better pics of the SSQA pin in question.
 
  • Like
Reactions: trav

Registered
Joined
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
You鈥檙e being myopic and ignoring all the information you don鈥檛 like, which is that the whole assembly is going to be on the ground when your work product fails. Whether the attachment is still attached will be a secondary matter.

Perhaps most importantly is that all these issues should be solvable by you, else you shouldn鈥檛 be tackling them. Groupthink doesn鈥檛 get the job done. That should be apparent by the whacko responses to welding technicalities. After all, you鈥檙e in a tractor forum, not a welding forum.

If you really wanted to get better, you鈥檇 be practicing, not asking for validation.
No, I took in all the responses and weighed them. I know all about how bad the side welds look. I have mentioned the things I am going to do to improve the FEL (grinding and gusset plates, and re-examining the front and back welds, WHICH DO SHOW THE HEAT THROUGH to the backside, which welders are telling me means it is a good weld).

I've been building things for 50+ years, and I am not a complete idiot (degree in engineering, you know). I can see where my welds are good, bad, and/or ugly. At least one forum responder (TheDuke) thinks the welds are okay.

The SSQA bevel pins clearly have nothing to do with welding. Maybe I should have started a completely new thread for them, but I did not. Don't you think the question of the SSQA pins is one that rates an answer?
 

Registered
Joined
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Some people just like being Negative Nancys rather that be helpful. Can you take some better pics of the SSQA pin in question.
This is not a very good picture, but if you blow it up maybe you can see the pins.
753989

Also another picture that shows those 'inner' welds on the SSQA adapter to the bucket I mentioned.

753990
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2

Registered
Joined
3,941 Posts
Looking at your first pic, the left pin looks to be on, well not solidly seated but the right one doesn't look like it is seated at all. Maybe it is an angle of the shot thing but that is what it looks like to me. That would cause an issue with back dragging or other uses where the bottom edge of the attachment is lifted up. This is kind of the issue that a buddy has with his Kubota. I think he tweaked his loader a bit. See how you have the round steel between the left and the right? Kubota does something similar to keep the dump/curl cylinders in sync. I think his is tweaked and the only fix he has found is to cut that pipe, get them in sync and reweld. I don't know that you have a sync issue but there appears to be a bit more of a gap on the right side than the left.

753993
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2

Registered
Joined
32 Posts
The inner welds are too cold, with poor wetting, and are unsafe.

Again, you鈥檙e asking for validation from largely unqualified people to support your wholly unqualified work product. You took perfectly good metal and half-ass stuck it together. Bravo?

The answer you don鈥檛 want to hear is that it鈥檚 bad enough to take apart. Sadly, it is.

Maybe hit a welding forum. Try WeldingWeb. Be prepared to provide machine type, voltage setting, wire type, speed, and more details. If you really wanted to improve, you鈥檇 do it over, and over, and over. You want lip service.
 

Administrator
Joined
21,133 Posts
Fellas, it鈥檚 ok to have differing opinions, but let鈥檚 not be so overly passionate about our thoughts that we are being aggressive to other members here. That鈥檚 just not normal for us. Thanks! (y)
 

Registered
Joined
32 Posts
Fellas, it鈥檚 ok to have differing opinions, but let鈥檚 not be so overly passionate about our thoughts...
With all due respect, I think you're missing the point, too. There might be linear feet of weld material, but there are only linear inches of joinery. There's less than a 50% success rate on the joinery. This work would not pass muster on any jobsite or in any factory anywhere in the world. That's not an opinion, that's a fact. Ignoring blatant facts gets people hurt.
 

Registered
Joined
3,941 Posts
That is what the ignore button is for.. 馃ぃ

I seem to be using it more lately.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ttazzman

Registered
Joined
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Looking at your first pic, the left pin looks to be on, well not solidly seated but the right one doesn't look like it is seated at all. Maybe it is an angle of the shot thing but that is what it looks like to me. That would cause an issue with back dragging or other uses where the bottom edge of the attachment is lifted up. This is kind of the issue that a buddy has with his Kubota. I think he tweaked his loader a bit. See how you have the round steel between the left and the right? Kubota does something similar to keep the dump/curl cylinders in sync. I think his is tweaked and the only fix he has found is to cut that pipe, get them in sync and reweld. I don't know that you have a sync issue but there appears to be a bit more of a gap on the right side than the left.

View attachment 753993
Well, to be fair there is proabaly dirt or something between on this picture. when they were conpletely clean and flush both sides were evenly engaged to about half the diameter of the beveled pins. But I have no clue how far they are supposed to be engaged. I would think that you have to get past the bevel to the round part for maximum engagement strength, but I have the impression that in general they don't engage that far.

Pretty sure there is not a sync or timing error between the two sides - that square crossbar keeps the two sides even. I think in this picture it is just more mud underneth on the right side. The pin is actually just barely engaged, visible or not.

I guess I should not have posted this picture - I think it is just confusing things. When it is fully engaged weith no debris, (and both sides engage to about 1/2 the bevel pin) it STILL popped off when I pressed the front of the bucket into the ground (dragging the lip of the bucket would do the same thing) (and the levers were fully engaged). This is what concerns me, and I want to know what is going on. How far is the bevel supposed to engage?
It also seems like the face the bevel is engaging against could also be ground to the same angle as the bevel which might provide better engagement? I just have no experience with how the SSQA should fit and other than watching the guy I bought my attachments from juggle about a dozen attachments (and he was just moving them around with a skidsteer, so he never engaged the pins)
 

Registered
Joined
3,941 Posts
Yeah I don't think it is a sync issue for sure and it could be dirt. Just mentioning and issue that I have read about. Well I know someone with the issue and I was looking up stuff to help him and found many others with the same problem. Like I mentioned it could be the angle of the shot. The thing is these things shouldn't be that tight that a little dirt keeps it from locking on.

Out of curiosity how far do those pins extend if the bucket isn't on? Are the slots that they are extending into too small for the pin? If they are bottoming out in the slot then what you have is all you are going to get. Maybe a different pin or opening up the slot a bit would allow full extension of the pin?
 

Administrator
Joined
21,133 Posts
With all due respect, I think you're missing the point, too. There might be linear feet of weld material, but there are only linear inches of joinery. There's less than a 50% success rate on the joinery. This work would not pass muster on any jobsite or in any factory anywhere in the world. That's not an opinion, that's a fact. Ignoring blatant facts gets people hurt.
With all due respect, I think you鈥檙e missing my point. I didn鈥檛 comment on welding procedures. You guys can discuss that for days on end. That鈥檚 just fine. I鈥檓 asking that members keep it respectful.

When you get overly passionate and start calling names or get passively aggressive, your point gets lost on the people you are trying to converse with. And it鈥檚 against the rules.

I鈥檓 a certified welder. Have been for years. It鈥檚 super difficult to help other diagnose and help their skill set with written text especially on a forum with so many answers and contradicting things. This is one of those subjects where a good friend or a class and some practice pays dividends. Getting mad and essentially blowing off everyone else鈥檚 opinions does zero to help anyone.


Let鈥檚 please return back to topic and help this patient and sharing gentleman, shall we?
 

Registered
Joined
3,941 Posts
Yep. My recommendation stands. Try and find a community education program on welding. Maybe a community college. Not sure what is in his area. Then you have a pro to evaluate and correct mistakes. If all one has is youtube that might be better than people trying to describe things here.

Welding bottom up is a recommendation not because it is the only technique, but rather let's focus on fewer techniques for a new person to welding. Also let's pick one that will make it a little easier for them to see what they are doing. It is better to practice and get better at a couple ways to do something than try everything and be good at nothing. He mentioned doing gussets and that is going to be the best route. Before diving into it too much though let's get some scrap steel. Weld it up working on technique and understanding the settings of the welder.

If it is something I am using that I need to weld and trust, that is what I did.

The OP also needs to figure out what is going on with those pins as there is something wrong there. There are probably some fixes but there isn't quite enough info yet.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rydplrs

Registered
Joined
1,432 Posts
That is what the ignore button is for.. 馃ぃ

I seem to be using it more lately.
im right there with you sir ....... being AWS and ASME certified (not current due to retirement) and a qualified AWS inspector are my creditials but the ignore button works so much better, not worth a arguement .... 馃槀 馃憤
 

Registered
Joined
1,432 Posts
Looking at your first pic, the left pin looks to be on, well not solidly seated but the right one doesn't look like it is seated at all. Maybe it is an angle of the shot thing but that is what it looks like to me. That would cause an issue with back dragging or other uses where the bottom edge of the attachment is lifted up. This is kind of the issue that a buddy has with his Kubota. I think he tweaked his loader a bit. See how you have the round steel between the left and the right? Kubota does something similar to keep the dump/curl cylinders in sync. I think his is tweaked and the only fix he has found is to cut that pipe, get them in sync and reweld. I don't know that you have a sync issue but there appears to be a bit more of a gap on the right side than the left.

View attachment 753993
you did a good job of showing him the issue.........i have seen some implements that were out of aligment when fabricated that presented the problem as shown some were bad enough the fix was cutting out the square hole on the implement bigger to get the attachment to engage (sometimes part of the problem is the top of the plate is not fully seated in its groove) ....for the OP when i use a SSQA adapter i usually get engagement of the pin about 50% or less of the bevel on the pin
 
41 - 60 of 97 Posts
Top