Which 1025r Light Guards for Work Lights

I have the factory guards and my complaint is about the split on 1 side. I have hit things and it allows the guards to twist out of shape. Then I have to twist them back into rectangles..... I would prefer the amazon bracket that appears to have 2 solid sides and the additional light mounting point.

Jimmy Walker said:

I have the factory guards and my complaint is about the split on 1 side. I have hit things and it allows the guards to twist out of shape. Then I have to twist them back into rectangles..... I would prefer the amazon bracket that appears to have 2 solid sides and the additional light mounting point.

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The Amazon brackets are split too. It's the only way to deal with the wires without removing the harness.

Jimmy Walker said:

I have the factory guards and my complaint is about the split on 1 side. I have hit things and it allows the guards to twist out of shape. Then I have to twist them back into rectangles..... I would prefer the amazon bracket that appears to have 2 solid sides and the additional light mounting point.

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Yep… the Amazon ones are also split. One thing I notice about the jd ones is that they have 4 holes on each bracket… do the instructions say that all 4 holes should be used when mounting to a 1025r, or maybe there are 4 holes so the same guard can be used for different types of tractors? TY

i just saw the instructions… looks like only 2 bolts are used to fasten the guard to the 1025. I wonder if u-clamps could be used to make the guards sturdier?

WCN1025 said:

i just saw the instructions… looks like only 2 bolts are used to fasten the guard to the 1025. I wonder if u-clamps could be used to make the guards sturdier?

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Where the lights attach the roll bar is angled back but the lights and brackets are vertical. U-clamps might work but they'd need to be larger the the 2" ROPS.

MarkEagleUSA said:

Where the lights attach the roll bar is angled back but the lights and brackets are vertical. U-clamps might work but they'd need to be larger the the 2" ROPS.

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Gotcha and Thanks! Sounds like Jimmy has bent those guards and wishes they were sturdier. Have you had a similar experience with the Jd guards?

Factory guards twisted out of shape.

Another complaint is that the guards are barely wider than the light fixture

Jimmy Walker said:

View attachment 802046

Factory guards twisted out of shape.

Another complaint is that the guards are barely wider than the light fixture
View attachment 802047

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Wow! Kinda looks like the guard twisted but the light did not twist or break. What happened to cause that… did a branch hit the top of the guard?

Jimmy Walker said:

Another complaint is that the guards are barely wider than the light fixture
View attachment 802047

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I think that's so that the light can be seen from a wider angle.

When I installed mine I thought a better design would be something that clamps to the ROPS and is independent of the light fixture. A larger branch hitting the guard just removes it and the light.

I use the factory guards AND have my lights inside the ROPs . It's win / win all around.

BOBL said:

I use the factory guards AND have my lights inside the ROPs . It's win / win all around.

View attachment 802083 View attachment 802084 View attachment 802082

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I can see how that protects the lights better than being outside the rops. Is that a strobe/flood light on the back of the rops and next to your flasher/tail light?

tweivoda said:

For the folks who have moved the warning lights to the inside of the ROPS do you notice and significant reduction in visibility to the rear of the tractor?

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A reduction of lower rear visibility is the reason I haven't moved my hazard lights to the inside of the ROPS..
They'd obstruct me from seeing the 3 point when hooking up to an implement, or while rototilling, so my lights will stay on the outside.
I'll just keep paying attention to what I'm doing with the tractor in order to keep from knocking the lights off.
So far ... so good .

makenlittle said:

I used magnets from Harbor Freight to hold my LED lights to the JD light brush guards.

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There is much to like about the magnet installation… easier install, easier adjustment of light beams, use forward or backward, easy to move where the light is needed, etc. Do the magnets stay where you put them and do the lights stay adjusted where you set them?

WCN1025 said:

I can see how that protects the lights better than being outside the rops. Is that a strobe/flood light on the back of the rops and next to your flasher/tail light?

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No, not a strobe, just a very good Sylvania 4" cube. I have a magnetic strobe that I stick to the top of the light guard. Picture below.

ALSO, placing the lights inside the ROPs does NOT interfere with your view of the 3 point hitch, or are the lights blinding. They are still behind your head.

BOBL said:

No, not a strobe, just a very good Sylvania 4" cube. I have a magnetic strobe that I stick to the top of the light guard. Picture below.

ALSO, placing the lights inside the ROPs does NOT interfere with your view of the 3 point hitch, or are the lights blinding. They are still behind your head.


View attachment 802220

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The lights placed on the inside of the ROPS will interfere with the installation of a OTC winter cab.
So .. no thanks to inside the the ROPS hazard lights for me, thank you very much.

Still not sure why anyone would keep these goober lights on if they keep getting busted and in the way? I don't want to hear, "I drive on the road a lot" BS. You could litter the entire roll bar with small 1" led lights. Problem solved.
(edit) Mounting work lights, remove those dumbass taillights mount work lights there. Now problem solved.