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I'm looking at a 1023 sized tractor for my property. I have 5 ac, mostly pasture and grass. I have a commercial zero turn now for grass, but find that its not very good on slopes (I live in the mountains) and it can *only* mow. I want something that can do it all. Loader, mower, box blade etc.

That being said, I love having a flawless yard more than anything. One thing I'm worried I'll give up is the quality of cut and the speed at which the zero turn mows the actual yard grass (less than .5ac). I know the 1023 has the 7iron deck so cut quality should be good, and I know it will be somewhat slower than the zero for mowing...but just how much slower will it be?

Who actually uses their 1 series tractors for cutting their yard? Do you have any pictures of the cut quality? Any problems?
 

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I to like a well manicured lawn with directional stripes and all that. The deck on the my 1025r cuts nicely, but doesnt lay flat with on a slope. It does leave faint stripes, but its mainly for cutting large quantities of grass in a short time. I cut 2.5 acres of full grass in about an hour. I'll see if i can get a few picts, no promises.


I'm looking at a 1023 sized tractor for my property. I have 5 ac, mostly pasture and grass. I have a commercial zero turn now for grass, but find that its not very good on slopes (I live in the mountains) and it can *only* mow. I want something that can do it all. Loader, mower, box blade etc.

That being said, I love having a flawless yard more than anything. One thing I'm worried I'll give up is the quality of cut and the speed at which the zero turn mows the actual yard grass (less than .5ac). I know the 1023 has the 7iron deck so cut quality should be good, and I know it will be somewhat slower than the zero for mowing...but just how much slower will it be?

Who actually uses their 1 series tractors for cutting their yard? Do you have any pictures of the cut quality? Any problems?
 

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I mow about 3 acres, maybe 3/4 of an acre yard and the rest sloping field I have cleared and previously bush-hogged. On the flat it is a perfect cut. On the slopes in my yard, the deck hangs askew and cuts a little lower on the down-hill side. Noticeable, but the ease and speed are worth it for me now. On the cleared areas, I leave it up all the way and just drive around.

4WD will get you in trouble easily of the turf. Any weak areas of grass that don't have a good root system will get scraped off on a tight turn, but good grass seems not to be a problem.
 

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Just cut my 2 acres yesterday for only the second time with my new 1023.. I also cut a winding strip up and back along the road for about 1 kilometer.. All told its about 7 feet wide.. This serves as a little atv track for my son.. The 1023 with the 54" deck cuts beautifully in my opinion.. Nice clean rows and all that good stuff.. Not gonna be as fast as a zero turn as you know.. But I can maneuver in and around obstacles with ease and the R4's do not do any damage at all to my lawn.. I think I'm most impressed and surprised by that since its been so bloody wet this spring..
 

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My yard has lots of slopes and that can cause me some issues. In the time I've owned the property I've learned a few tricks to keep my turf looking pretty good. With the 1026R the biggest problem areas I have are tight spots on slopes. With the 4x4 you can handle some, but I do have a couple spots that get skid marks. My 318 wasn't really any better so I think the only way to completly eliminate any turf issues would be to push mow these tight spots. I've also left areas and just trimmed them up with the string trimmer. If you have a fairly flat yard I don't see the 1 series giving you any issues. When you start to put it on slopes in tight areas you may have to adjust your style some. I just keep in mind that some places just aren't riding mower friendly.

My mower will also sag a little on the down hill side leaving a lower cut line. In my yard I try to mow up and down hills instead of sidehilling. Well if it's possible.

Do the 54" mower guys with 1 series have this issue? My 60" sticks out past the tires a ways and I assume that makes the problem more pronounced.

-636
 

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Nice, those arent bad for a deck without a stripe kit.

Any problems with tearing up the yard or any cumbersome qualities of the tractor?
I'm running the R4 tires and only in the really soft places do I see any kind of impression from the tires (got them because I also do grading, etc.) The turning radius on my 1025R is tighter than my little JD180 Lawn tractor. You do sit quite a bit higher, so low hanging obstructions that weren't a problem before, are now. I'm simply driving around the yard with the chainsaw looking for anything I can't walk under as the top of the roll cage is just a little taller than I when I'm standing on the ground.

I have only thrown the deck on once to test it on Friday, but I was impressed with how it just powered through the deep grass (went through some 12" deep stuff). 60D 7-Iron deck.
 

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Ditto Pretty much what everyone else said:

4wd can tear up the lawn if you turn tightly.
I now my lawn with the R4s and no issues unless I do something stupid like forget it's in 4wd and I'm turning around a tree.
I also me in low as the lawn was neglected for years before I bought the house and if I run in high it shakes me and the tractor pretty hard.
One thing I have to remind myself is to keep the edge of the deck away from upslopes as it will tear through like butter. I'm sure I just don't have something set quite correctly.

I have the 60d deck.

Sorry for the sloppiness of this post I'm currently in flight and writing this on my phone...
 

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One might not want a report from a user cutting a half acre of cheesy lawn/weeds, but... I gave my GX335/48C a rest last Summer and tried out the 54D. My results were a complete plus, manuvers easily (and tightly) around trees/corners with the extra 3" makes up for most of the turning radius loss. The 1026/54D at mowing speed runs a good deal smoother than the WOT Kawi on the GX.

I've got a 45º+ slope up to the front yard along my driveway and up or down and even sideways the tractor is a rock, far more stable than the GX. Going downhill on the GX w/axle locked the rears will sometimes break loose (Wheeee... oops!) Traction lock + 4WD keeps me from having to "one cheek over the line" for counter balance mowing sidehill. If you remember to release the lock and 4WD there is no lawn tear up with R4's.

Though it won't cut near as high as a GX/48C (yes, it's now adjusted to the setup sticky) it cuts clean enough to equal or surpass the quality of cut (a relative term considering my lawn grass consist:laugh:). I now cut a bit lower than I used to and just pray for regular spells of rain.

Other than the clearance in some spaces planted for a 48" deck, I see no need to use the GX for mowing. Of course with the BH/FEL on the 1026 most of the time the GX is going to see plenty of service this season until the diggin's done...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Though it won't cut near as high as a GX/48C (yes, it's now adjusted to the setup sticky) it cuts clean enough to equal or surpass the quality of cut (a relative term considering my lawn grass consist:laugh:). I now cut a bit lower than I used to and just pray for regular spells of rain.
Thats my other problem I'm thinking about, I normally mow at 4" to 4.5". I dont like my grass much lower than 4".
 

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My 2 acres of "lawn" is a hot mess of a large variety of weeds and some things that look like small shrubbery - and it is all on a slope and very uneven. I have not any problems with tearing up "grass" using 4x4 with the R4s. I haven't noticed one side cutting lower than the other when cross cutting on a slope (measured up to 28 degrees) but that may be because my "grass" is so course. I was very slightly worried that the 60" deck may not work as well given the rolling nature of my yard but as it turns out it has worked wonderfully. I have not timed it yet but I think it takes me about an hour to mow it all. It used to take three hours with the 46" Cub Cadet.
 

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I mow across an incline and have noticed some ridges caused by the down hill side hanging a bit lower. The only thing I have ever found that won't do this is a mower that's designed to ride on the gauge wheels at each corner, rather than hang from the frame. I did get a marked improvement when I lowered the gauge wheels closer to the ground than the manual recommends (about 1/4 on a level garage floor). I have seriously considered adapting the gauge wheels to allow them to function more like mowers I've seen that use the wheels to determine the deck height. I was thinking of using bushings on the gauge wheel shaft and keeping the height adjustment pin in the disengaged position to allow the wheel to spin in the bracket. The pin to hold the top of the shaft is already there. I guess you could also tap the gauge wheel mount and install a grease zerk. At that point I would make my adjustments so the deck hangs at about the same height as the gauge wheels are set. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
 

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I mow about an acre of lawn with my 1026 / 60" mmm. It does a good job. The R4's work fine for me, but, for someone that's fussy about the looks of a lawn turf tires would be far better for mowing.
 

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I mow my yard with my new 1025R. I am on sloping hillsides not too step but I am getting some edge lines showing. I have yet to adjust my mower deck as per the manual or the thread on this forum. I really hope when I do the adjustment it will look better. I don't think the dealer bothered to adjust it before delivery. I have the 54D. I hope I can get better results with some adjusting. :unknown:
 

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R4 with 60" deck , anywhere from 1/2 to 3 acres depending if FIL mowed . Mowing across the lawn, up or down the slopes or anyway in between. Very seldom mow the same direction back to back. Yes ,mowing in 4x4 will tear the yard up just have to be careful with the turns after a rain. Depending will mow in high or low range , again if mowing across the lawns ,High, up and down slopes , LOW range.
 

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I have a 1025r with 60" deck and r4 tires mow a 1/2 acre and it's mostly flat it takes me about 45mins to cut in high range and I don't go as fast as it could go because I usually have to slow and turn or go around something. Prior to my 1025r I had a ariens zero turn mower and it was a 42" cut took me an hour to mow with it wide open. I had some clumping with it at times now I have none. Also I think it's amazing how tight the turning radius is on the 1025r I have no problems cutting around anything.


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One might not want a report from a user cutting a half acre of cheesy lawn/weeds, but... I gave my GX335/48C a rest last Summer and tried out the 54D. My results were a complete plus, manuvers easily (and tightly) around trees/corners with the extra 3" makes up for most of the turning radius loss. The 1026/54D at mowing speed runs a good deal smoother than the WOT Kawi on the GX.

I've got a 45º+ slope up to the front yard along my driveway and up or down and even sideways the tractor is a rock, far more stable than the GX. Going downhill on the GX w/axle locked the rears will sometimes break loose (Wheeee... oops!) Traction lock + 4WD keeps me from having to "one cheek over the line" for counter balance mowing sidehill. If you remember to release the lock and 4WD there is no lawn tear up with R4's.

Though it won't cut near as high as a GX/48C (yes, it's now adjusted to the setup sticky) it cuts clean enough to equal or surpass the quality of cut (a relative term considering my lawn grass consist:laugh:). I now cut a bit lower than I used to and just pray for regular spells of rain.

Other than the clearance in some spaces planted for a 48" deck, I see no need to use the GX for mowing. Of course with the BH/FEL on the 1026 most of the time the GX is going to see plenty of service this season until the diggin's done...
I am not exactly sure what I did, but I adjusted the deck without reading the sticky. What I did was set the gauge wheels above the concrete about a 1/4 inch.... Well the one that I wanted it to be 1/4 inch anyway. I adjusted multiple times. First time I adjusted, I set the height of the arms by measuring the deck latch area then setting the pins at the corresponding height. Well the fronts were not equal, nor did they match side to side. I had to take up on the front quite a bit on one side to get it to come close, then readjusted the hanging brackets to level it out. I have rubber pads underneath the deck on the concrete, which raises it less than 1/4 inch. But I believe i am close to 5 inches in the lock position. Did the final adjustment to the gauge wheels, and it mows great even across the hill. Love mowing now after doing the jumper on the RIO. Actually hated mowing before with this unit. More dang (UNWANTED) government interference.:cookoo:

I have a turkey mound in my back yard that s quite high. Mow across it, because I can no longer mow up and down, due to the new shed/garage/barn/hanger..... Pretty steady compared to my old tractor. Have been digging out behind the slab for a retaining wall and have been up and down the hill so many times. Not digging it up, but you certainly can see tracks.

The FEL and BH are on and off all the time. Getting dang fast at changing it over. Only time it take a bit more time is if I have had the tiller on. Not bad though.
 
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