[sennister]

Suspecting it is the same panel that is in my X585, I had a panel issue as well but fixed it.

It is known that the soldier joints fail. Also the ground should be bonded.

The symptoms I had were when running the PTO my temp gauge and fuel gauges would peg out. I want to say I found a new one on eBay for $200-250 but thought I would de-soldier and re-soldier all the pins for the connector on the dash. If it didn't work I would be buying a new dash anyhow. That dash has been running strong since doing this and adding a new ground wire and splicing into the ground wire going to the dash.

Here are what the connector pins looked like on the dash.

If you look at this album there are a couple photos of the soldier joints that failed.

https://imgur.com/a/UUl0E

I did look and my service manual only covers the gas versions. I just can't say for certain that they are the same.

 

[sennister]

I am guessing diesel might have a glow plug light or "wait to start' light as only difference.

They repurposed the EFI light for a Glow Plug light (Engine Preheat Light) when comparing a X585 to a X495 instrument cluster.

I don't know what that means for wiring though. We need to know more info on what the OP is trying to do.

I would imagine it suffers from the same issues as the gas version though.

 

[sennister]

Oh awesome guys. Thanks for the wiring diagram that is what I needed. I didn't see that anyone responded till now. I thought I would get an email but maybe I did something were it didn't notify me. Yeah I pulled the cluster apart and found the pins that were all corroded and cracked. I was looking at this one for a guy and was wanting to test everything and power it up to check everything. The one needle was loose on the motor and I pulled both of the needle off. I guess no one knows the best way to put the needles back in the right spot? Im guessing put power to them to zero them out and put the needles on at the lowest point on panel?????

I have a X585 but gauge operation should be the same. I just went out and tested this. Ignition on but not started on a cold engine should move the temp gauge to the bottom of the green bar. About at 12 o'clock. Fuel gauge will be the hard one. I would just fill up the fuel tank and set it to the F mark with the ignition on. Of course if you are bench testing that might be hard. When I pulled my cluster apart to resoldier everything, I put painter's tape under the needles marking the position with a sharpie mark on the tape before pulling them from the stepper motor. I have fixed many a GM Truck Cluster to know this trick.

As I mentioned I would run a new ground wire to the ground on the wiring harness side of the cluster connector. Off the top of my head I want to say pin 20. Don't quote me on that and look at that diagram but I have a 20 in my mind but it has been a few years.

 

[sennister]

I have also used tape under the needle on GM clusters. I rotate the needle until it stops, mark the tape and then turn the needle past the stop point and rotate it off.

When putting the needle back on, I put it before my tape mark and rotate to the stop point then continue the my tape mark.

My first cluster, I just pulled up on the needle and the shaft came out of the stepper motor ruining it :banghead: Good thing I bought extras

It was our 2000 - 2004 Impalas I worked on. We had four, for our girl's college cars. Two got totaled, two we sold with high mileage.

Another good way to get needles off. I know I did this on my stepper motor replacement projects on GM clusters, was to use the tape method mentioned and to pull the needle, slip a fork under where the needle attaches to the shaft of the stepper motor. By prying up with the fork and working around the connection point the needles will pop right off. Like I said I am pretty sure I had to remove the needles from my X585 cluster and would have used the same technique.

The GM cluster I was working on was a 2003 Avalanche. I first time was stepper motor for speedometer I think. Went back in another time when oil pressure started flaking out as well. That time I replaced all of them. The final time I went in was to reflow the solder on the SM Resistors because of the common issue with the gear position indicator getting so faint you couldn't read it anymore. Don't have the truck anymore.