Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So wondering what should I’ve gotten with my HH Middle Buster & subsolier. Tim’s video shows a hitch pin & a shear bolt. Mine came with two shear bolts and no hitch pin. Should I’ve gotten a hitch pin & the other bolt is a spare, or are they shipping these with two bolts these days?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Do you have the super duty Heavy Hitch? I made the mistake of using a standard duty HH with the subsoiler and I cracked the HH receiver tube. There was a stump that was covered with dirt and we were probably pushing it a little too hard. The 5/8" sheer bolts weren't even marked. So then I ordered the super-duty HH and to make sure the bolts sheer before I hurt anything, I've actually replaced them with a 3/8" Grade 3 bolt. It has some movement to it, but I feel more confident that I will sheer the bolt before I bust something that matters. I've yet to sheer that bolt.

I was surprised that in one of Tim's videos he sheered the 5/8" bolt fairly quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Grade 3 bolt?

What is a grade 3 bolt?
A grade 5 has 3 marks on it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
A grade 3 bolt won't have marks on the head as far as I know. I picked mine up at Menards, they just had a small section of Grade 3. Most were grade 5 and 8. I was using a 5/8" pin in the top hole and that grade 3 bolt in the bottom, thinking when the shear pin goes it would just pivot up. I'm not sure if that is the best approach or not but I think that was what TTWT was using so that's just the way I did it. The subsoiler worked great for what I needed. I had clear some areas of brush that had lots of vines. The roots were thick and I wanted to rip that stuff up before I tilled it. Worked great for that purpose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,157 Posts
Used mine once...( not hh brand but similar). cheated and bought a mini Excavater for further use.

I repurposed mine by welding a reciever hitch tube to a chunk of 1/2" x 6" flatbar. I just pin that into the holes where the ripper was mounted.

Also use it with a 5'x8' homemade landplane drag thing.....I run a 6' chunk of 2x2 square tube in the receiver with chains hanging down to the drag so I can lift it for multiple passes in the same area or just to travel from place to place on my land.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
538 Posts
Bolt Grades

A little off topic here, but it can be informative, yet confusing!

Back in the 60's, life was simple. Most fasteners where made to an SAE standard and the head of the bolt was used to identify the strength of the bolt. Pretty simple, back then, just add 2 to the number of lines on the head. No lines, add 2: Grade 2, 3 lines, add 2: Grade 5, 6 lines, add 2: Grade 8. And then in the 80's, ASTM wanted to have and use their own markings. These are a letter, followed my 3 numbers and sometimes lines, depending on the "type"...ASTM has both "Grades" and "Types" of bolts! ASTM marks bolts based on material primarily. One group has the same strength, yet 3 materials and 3 markings! These ASTM bolts are equivalent to an SAE GR 5: Stamped "A325" and no lines, stamped "A325" and 3 lines 60º apart, stamped "A325" and 3 lines 120º apart. Theese are made to ASTM A325, but then there's ASTM 354 and ASTM 490...all with different markings!

And then there are the nuts! I found 6 different standards with 6 different markings.

OK, Menards. I'd be REAL tempted to challenge them! In any searches I've done, I've never found a "Grade 3" fastener. ASTM has a "Type 3" and that's as close as I've come to something with a 3. ASTM's Type 3 is equivalent to SAE Grade 5 and stamped as shown above.

Bottom line here is know what you need and then verify you bought what you needed! Bob
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,983 Posts
A little off topic here, but it can be informative, yet confusing!

Back in the 60's, life was simple. Most fasteners where made to an SAE standard and the head of the bolt was used to identify the strength of the bolt. Pretty simple, back then, just add 2 to the number of lines on the head. No lines, add 2: Grade 2, 3 lines, add 2: Grade 5, 6 lines, add 2: Grade 8. And then in the 80's,

Bottom line here is know what you need and then verify you bought what you needed! Bob
And somewhere in between we should have neutered all of the politicians and engineers.....:lol:

When it comes to buy a bolt that "matters" like a shear bolt, I will only buy one in a manufacturers package with the grade, type, hardness, etc marked on it.

The grab bins at he box stores are kind of a crap shoot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
A grade 3 bolt won't have marks on the head as far as I know. I picked mine up at Menards, they just had a small section of Grade 3. Most were grade 5 and 8. I was using a 5/8" pin in the top hole and that grade 3 bolt in the bottom, thinking when the shear pin goes it would just pivot up. I'm not sure if that is the best approach or not but I think that was what TTWT was using so that's just the way I did it. The subsoiler worked great for what I needed. I had clear some areas of brush that had lots of vines. The roots were thick and I wanted to rip that stuff up before I tilled it. Worked great for that purpose.
Steve,

It is ‘Grade 2’ rather than ‘Grade 3’.

Others:

It took 8 words to correct Steve’s error in terminology. No big deal. We all make mistakes.


Tim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,983 Posts
Steve,

It is ‘Grade 2’ rather than ‘Grade 3’.

Others:

It took 8 words to correct Steve’s error in terminology. No big deal. We all make mistakes.


Tim
But you only used 7 words and 2 numbers.....:lol:


I did find the write up of the different bolt standards interesting though.

I learned a valuable lesson when I bought what I thought were grade 5 bolts from a box store bin. After bending one of the augers in my snowblower because the bolt didn't shear I learned that not all grade 5 bolts are the same.

So as far as shear bolts go, I want them in a manufacturers package so I know what I am getting.

And even though the blower came with grade 5 shear bolts, I ended up going with Grade 2 after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I was using a 5/8" pin in the top hole and that grade 3 bolt in the bottom, thinking when the shear pin goes it would just pivot up. I'm not sure if that is the best approach or not but I think that was what TTWT was using so that's just the way I did it.
Ok that’s what I was curious about, was thinking the same thing. I did use it over the weekend with the two sheer bolts in place. Did a good job with no bendy/breaky I had to lift the three point a little bit in a couple of places in order to complete the first pass, but that’s no big deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
I had to raise mine a little at times too. Sometimes I'd catch a thick root and it would cause the tires to spin. Since I broke my last HH instead of shearing the pin, I'm a little more careful and don't push it too hard. With that said though, in really wet soil (this spring), I did rip a 3" root in half. I've pulled up some crazy big things with that subsoiler/ripper. Good luck! Glad it is worked well for you.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top