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I've got a 2006 2305 that I've had since February of 2015. Absolutely rock solid machine which has never let me down, and never failed to start. I always either clean it with compressed air after mowing, and every so often wash it. Every year I paint what needs to be painted, so other than missing doing that on the deck last year, it stays looking pretty close to new. It gets oil changes and grease per the manual or more often as needed.
Last time I mowed I dusted it off with air, put it away, and everything was fine. Now when I try to start it, it kicks for about 2 seconds then immediately shuts down as if the key has been turned to the "OFF" position.
Of course, I immediately thought blocked filter or contaminated fuel, so I changed the fuel filter and cleaned out the bowl. There was minimal sediment, but more than there's ever been, which surprised me, so I also drained 6 bowl fulls of the fuel and discarded it. No visible water or other contaminant in it. The fuel was bought about two weeks ago. I tried the throttle in several different positions, and still no go. It keeps doing exactly the same thing no matter where the throttle sits (though I've never tried to start it with the throttle pulled all the way back). I verified that the linkage from the throttle to the engine is attached and operating normally. There is no bark or sputter or funny smoke as it might have with contaminated diesel (which it DID have once before, and simply coughed and spit the crap out before running normally). I then examined the air filters. I change those pretty frequently so the primary didn't really need to be changed, but I changed it anyway. The secondary looked perfect as it always does. I tried all combinations of no filter, one filter, then both filters, and always the same result.
Then I got to thinking. I'm not a mechanic but own trucks, one with a 1975 Cummins diesel, and the other with a 1968 Detroit 6-71. I did have one with a 1965 Detroit 8V-71. The mechanics who help me work on them always say that a diesel runs until the fuel is cut off, and of course, all three of those trucks use a push starter, and not only have fuel shutoffs but also emergency fuel shutoffs. Using that logic, since the 2305 shuts off by the key switch, is that OFF/START/RUN switch on the 2305 (and I assume on 1025R and others) a switch that shuts down the fuel when in the "OFF" position? Has anyone experienced their switch going bad, such that it sounds like it's going to start and run normally, but then immediately shuts down once the switch goes from "START" back to "RUN?"
I just don't want to be missing something obvious that I could easily fix before resorting to have the Deere dealer have to bring out a truck.....
Thanks in advance for any input!
 
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sounds like u have a blowed diode in the wiring harness. same thing happened to my 2520 when that happened. search on here for how and where to find the diode that controls the fuel going to the pump-ok. good luck
 

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Don't know about the 2305, but the On Series have a Fuel Shut Off Solenoid that has two coils, the first soil is a pull in coil that pulls the solenoid plunger to the open position and is energized for one second. This is the clunk or loud click you hear when the key is turned on. The heavy power the do this job is supplied from a relay on my fuse panel and I have had to replace that relay on my 1026R. The second coil is the hold in coil and it is powered from the instrument panel and is what keeps the solenoid energized when the tractor is running. I believe there is a fuse for both circuits and you might have no power going to the hold in coil. On some fuel injector pumps you can remove the solenoid and manually move the fuel control lever to the on and off position to see if the equipment will start and run. In very old diesels, this lever was operated by a cable you pushed and pulled to turn the fuel on and off. On the One Series, there is also a small electric fuel pump used to supply fuel to the Injection Pump which you should ear running when the tractor is running, if this pump quits, the main fuel filter will not fill with fresh fuel when you change the filter and the machine will not run. As mentioned above there is something wrong with the electrical power to the solenoid, either a diode, fuse or other issue with power delivery. The best way to trouble shoot is usint the very expensive JD Service manual for your machine, I could not keep my tractors running with out them. Please let us know what you find out when you get the problem resolved.
 

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I have had this same problem as BigJim55 with my tractor and ran across this video posted by (or reposted) by Coaltrain.

Youtube video

Sorry, IF video does not work.

You can still access it by typing Diode Replacement in the Search Community box at the top of the screen. Then scroll down to Coaltrains's post to view the video. Hope this helps.
 

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I have a 2006 2305 also. Same thing happened to mine.
It's a V2 diode located on the right side of the wiring harness once you've removed the console.
There's 3 of them. They're $25.00 a piece.
 

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The V4 diode is a blue and white diode, there are 4 of them. I know this because I ordered the V4 diode and that's what I got.
The parts guy said I needed the V2 diode.
The guy in the video is showing the right part, he's just calling the wrong part number.
 

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There is a fuel solenoid that shuts off the fuel (component 4 in the below parts diagram).

For whatever reason it could be losing current and shutting. You do also have a mechanical fuel pump that if failing I suppose could cause your engine to starve of fuel after a few moments.

793018
 

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On my 2004 4610, the first thing that failed and caused it to not start was the fuel shutoff relay.

The second thing that failed (just recently) was the fuel shutoff solenoid timer module. Replaced that and it has started perfectly ever since.

793028


I have never had a diode module failure, but on the 2305, the V4 diode is responsible for supplying the fuel solenoid hold-in coil current, so this problem could also be caused by a failed V4 diode.

If you hear the loud clunk for the fuel solenoid when you turn on the key (indicating the pull-in coil is being activated by the timer module and the K2 fuel pull-in relay), then the problem is likely the V4 diode which is not keeping the fuel solenoid hold-in coil activated after initial start.

If you don't hear the loud clunk when you turn the key to ON, then either the timer module or the K2 relay is likely bad.
 

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My guess is a diode in lower console below the steering wheel in the wiring harness. Had one to go when I had the 2305.
 
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