Actually a great deal of tool room grinding is performed dry. Use an "I" hardness wheel or softer of 46 or courser grit, don't take off more than a couple thousands in depth per pass and don't cross feed more than .01 per stroke. Coolant would allow deeper-more but heat can be kept out of the tool steel without it.could not find any, and i know is not easy if you do not have the right tool-perfect 45 angle wet grinder
I would keep looking for a small machine shop, that would be the best solution. If you were to ship it someplace to sharpen, I'd look at using Keith at TurnWright Machine Works, I stumbled across him in youtube (his video list https://www.youtube.com/user/KEF791/videos). He does all sorts of machining work and if you take a few minutes watching his video, you'll get a really good idea what and how he goes about his projects. He works a lot in the small Marine sector, but this would be super easy for him to knock out. I know nothing of him other than what I've learned while binge watching his videos.Anyone knows were i can send wood chipper knifes/blades for sharpening or a tool to buy and do it myself Did not find a place near me
i am not very good with a grinder and wonder if heat build up will not ruin the bladeIt may not have been the correct way to do it, but I used to sharpen my chipper blades with an angle grinder with a good Tiger flap wheel. Lock the blade in the vise and dress it up. Took longer to remove and replace the blade than the actual sharpening.
This chipper only has one blade,and all i have is bench grinders, hand grinders, dramels Novice at best at metal workingActually a great deal of tool room grinding is performed dry. Use an "I" hardness wheel or softer of 46 or courser grit, don't take off more than a couple thousands in depth per pass and don't cross feed more than .01 per stroke. Coolant would allow deeper-more but heat can be kept out of the tool steel without it.
Sharpening would reduce the height of the blades, and I'm sure you would want them matched. Is there a provision to shim or adjust them back to the proper protrusion if they are sharpened?
If this chipper had more than one blade that would be an interesting proposition. With one blade there would be a small gap between the inserts that would likely suffer abrasion and loss of the insert pocket geometry.Why not make a set of blades with replaceable carbide inserts? :munch: