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Anyone knows were i can send wood chipper knifes/blades for sharpening or a tool to buy and do it myself Did not find a place near me
 

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Anyone knows were i can send wood chipper knifes/blades for sharpening or a tool to buy and do it myself Did not find a place near me
What about the company that made the chipper?
 

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I would bet any person who has a Saw blade sharpening service can do it. Or how about a knife sharpening service. Most probably they do both anyway. Just my thoughts here.
 

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Sounds like a good job for anyone who has a surface grinder, any small machine shops nearby?
 

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could not find any, and i know is not easy if you do not have the right tool-perfect 45 angle wet grinder
Actually a great deal of tool room grinding is performed dry. Use an "I" hardness wheel or softer of 46 or courser grit, don't take off more than a couple thousands in depth per pass and don't cross feed more than .01 per stroke. Coolant would allow deeper-more but heat can be kept out of the tool steel without it.

Sharpening would reduce the height of the blades, and I'm sure you would want them matched. Is there a provision to shim or adjust them back to the proper protrusion if they are sharpened?
 

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Anyone knows were i can send wood chipper knifes/blades for sharpening or a tool to buy and do it myself Did not find a place near me
I would keep looking for a small machine shop, that would be the best solution. If you were to ship it someplace to sharpen, I'd look at using Keith at TurnWright Machine Works, I stumbled across him in youtube (his video list https://www.youtube.com/user/KEF791/videos). He does all sorts of machining work and if you take a few minutes watching his video, you'll get a really good idea what and how he goes about his projects. He works a lot in the small Marine sector, but this would be super easy for him to knock out. I know nothing of him other than what I've learned while binge watching his videos.

In lieu of that, you could use a 1" x 42" strip sander that can put a razor edge on almost anything.



There are several re-sellers of the same version, shop around if you're interested in purchasing one they're all the same. One option I would consider is the Grizzly version for $225.

It would be easy to build a jig and let the belt go to work. I use mine to sharpen everything from wood chisels and lawn mower blades, changing the belt grit to get a finer edge.
 

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It may not have been the correct way to do it, but I used to sharpen my chipper blades with an angle grinder with a good Tiger flap wheel. Lock the blade in the vise and dress it up. Took longer to remove and replace the blade than the actual sharpening.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It may not have been the correct way to do it, but I used to sharpen my chipper blades with an angle grinder with a good Tiger flap wheel. Lock the blade in the vise and dress it up. Took longer to remove and replace the blade than the actual sharpening.
i am not very good with a grinder and wonder if heat build up will not ruin the blade
Find this Makita 9820-2 1.1 amp Horizontal Wheel Wet Blade Sharpener-but very :gizmo: and not sure if would work
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Actually a great deal of tool room grinding is performed dry. Use an "I" hardness wheel or softer of 46 or courser grit, don't take off more than a couple thousands in depth per pass and don't cross feed more than .01 per stroke. Coolant would allow deeper-more but heat can be kept out of the tool steel without it.

Sharpening would reduce the height of the blades, and I'm sure you would want them matched. Is there a provision to shim or adjust them back to the proper protrusion if they are sharpened?
This chipper only has one blade,and all i have is bench grinders, hand grinders, dramels Novice at best at metal working
 

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Wow! That's a lot of cabbage for a blade sharpener. I wouldn't recommend it, due to it being specific to planer blades. But that's just my opinion.

If you don't feel as though the angle grinder is a good fit, what about a bench grinder?

If your blades were made from solid carbide (highly doubtful), then the heat from grinding (work hardening)is not an issue. Only if your blades are made from tool steel, then there is a very slim chance the exact grade (A2) would be made brittle by the work hardening of the grinder. Actually you would need to quench it in a liquid like water or oil to make even A2 brittle. Most tool steels are engineered to withstand work hardening, however they may become case hardened at the point the grinding has taken place.

But then again I am likely over thinking this and would just hate to see you spend a lot of money on a specialized sharpener.:unknown:
 

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You can buy replacement blades for you chipper through TSK Grinding for about $30. They also will sharpen them for you.

Personally, I'd order 1 set of new blades and then send your old ones in and have them sharpened so that you have a spare you can swap out.
 

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You can buy replacement blades for you chipper through TSK Grinding for about $30. They also will sharpen them for you.

Personally, I'd order 1 set of new blades and then send your old ones in and have them sharpened so that you have a spare you can swap out.
I agree.
 

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update

Thanks for help I find a place near me -big kubota /bobcat dealer that has a shop and they charge $ 1.50/ inch :good2: Online price is high due to shipping cost:cheers:
 

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I also would order a second set of blades to have on hand..

Now... Being a retired machine shop tool maker, the first thing I would do is build a jig to mount the blades to to sharpen on a surface grinder..
Heat is no problem, as long as you take your time.. For a once a year job, or at the most twice a year, it don't need done in minimum time..

Once I had the dimensions of the new blade.. And the grinding fixture.. I would look into maybe a different material for blades.. I wonder if a tool steel called stenner would handle abrasion better..

Good luck..
 

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Why not make a set of blades with replaceable carbide inserts? :munch:
If this chipper had more than one blade that would be an interesting proposition. With one blade there would be a small gap between the inserts that would likely suffer abrasion and loss of the insert pocket geometry.
 
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