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Discussion Starter #1
I am waiting on a new utility shed which I have ordered from Carolina Carports. I am guessing it will arrive some time in January now since they are shut down during the holidays. I am hoping that the snow holds off here until it arrives. Thus far providence has been in my favor here in northern NJ. I wanted to build a barn 24x30 two level with a loft but I am going to have to deal with wetlands issues which I have started the process on. However it will take time. I want to get my 990 out of the elements. Right now it is covered with a tarp but I want to get it into something with a little more protection. In my town you can put up a utility shed up to 200 sqft and not more than 10 feet high (that is average height. It has to have a base of solid material under it and you can even put a concrete pad under it if you so desire and can afford. The other good thing is that wetlands do not come into the picture as long as it is 1/2' off of the property line. So the 990 with 8B is 19' long and 6' wide so a building of 10x20 will work to put it under cover. I purchased the Carolina Carports custom building after reading some good reviews off of this site. I have been working on the base for the building to be put up. Here is a link to the pictures of doing the compacting and building around the base with the multitude of rocks that I have at my disposal. https://plus.google.com/photos/116078893095334358419/albums/5823869251143983921?authkey=CLTjt9DQxamGJw The building is completely enclosed with 8x8 garage doors on either end, 2 windows on each side and a man door on one side as well. I went with the certified building which is set for 130 mph winds and 50 lbs/sqft for roof load and a 20 year rust out warranty. They come to install it and that is what I am waiting on right now. I did the initial order but that did not go through because of some glitches so I got behind by 3 weeks which pushed it off even further.

I used 8" (17 tons) of recycled concrete for the base. I found out after the fact that I could put down a concrete pad so I am checking into that right now. My construction friend told me that it will cost some money but that it will be worth it in the end. he said I should make the pad 3.5" to 5" thick.

Does anyone have any other thoughts that I am not thinking of or comments on what I have already done and should have done different or should change?

One other note Lord willing I will be getting about 5 ton of 3/4" stone in order to put around it as well.

Thanks for any help.
 

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How about some electric for lights and a Battery Tender? Maybe a 20 amp circuit in a 1" conduit?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Kenny, I would like that but because it is a utility shed I am not allowed by the town to put electricity in it. I figured I will run my generator right now to have electricity when I need it. Of course that doesn't help with the battery tender or for a block heater. But at least the building will be better than no building.

I had a friend using a freinds mason dump truck bring in 5 ton of 3/4" stone today and got stuck. We had to dump the load where it was and then I was able to pull him out with the 990. I really wanted to try with the load on but we both thought it best to dump the load. Then we (my 3 kids and I) had to hand shovel it into the 990 FEL and get it to the back. That was some work, all 5 tons!
 

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I'd either put a "temporary" outlet in, or hide it really well. :hide:
 

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I am doing a utility shed right now and this is what I intend to do when summer comes around. First, I put it on a skid type foundation to avoid building permits and a property tax increase so I can't very well run a permanent underground conduit to it. Now it's 14X24 so I'm pushing the size envelope and may get bit in the end but I don't think so. I'm in a rural area where folks are used to doing pretty much what they damn well please. At any rate I am going to mount a 50 amp RV type plug on the side of the bldg and from the load side of that feed a small 4 or 6 circuit panel and wire the shed as if it was permanent. I'll then mount a a regular 4 wire 50 amp recep in the garage and make an extension cord to run between it and the shed. You can go 30 amp which is much cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you to all of you for all your ideas. I like them. My utility shed is about 200' from my main box in the garage of the house. In addition it is up and down hill and through lots of rock. Maybe the extension cord would work for 30 amps but again it is a long way off. The ideal would be to dig a trench all the way and bury a cable. If I do that it will have to be after the town inspector looks at it. Then I can go after it.

Right now I still do not have the building. We have had snow twice. I have a tarp covering the pad and was out removing snow off of it today. I am wondering if I should wait until spring now since they have not brought the building yet. I hope to talk with them later this week when they come back from their holiday break to see where I am in their schedule. I would have liked to have had it before now. We will see. It would be nice to have it for the 990 now. The tarp continues to work and keep it dry and out of the weather for the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I spoke to Carolina Carport yesterday. They were going to contact me in the next two weeks to schedule it so that meant the end of January for installing it. I don't know if we will still have snow or if we will be overburdened with it by then so I asked if I could put it off. They said no problem. I can call them in the spring when I am ready. So that is what I have decided to do. I'll spend the extra to get a better tarp for the 990 for the rest of the winter. then in the spring I am going to do a little more work around and on the pad. I am going to put in some drainage pipe with stone around it and then I have a big rock to do some splitting on since it is ledge and cannot be budged and then work a little more on the pad and I am going to spend the money to put down a concrete pad for the building. This way it will make a real nice base. My construction friend thought that was a good idea since the area will expand and contract through the winter and it will be much more settled. So now just another 4 to 6 months to wait for the building which I know will go by faster than I can think.

P.S. I will also give thought to that conduit as well on the cement pad. If anything it will be good for putting a cable in from the outside where the generator would be.
 

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Just a thought...................

I ran a 4" corregated pipe from 24" underground, under the sill, and into the barn, before I poured the floor.Truth be told, 'Yea, it had a 6-Gauge 220 line, and a water line in it.' I guess that it's not what they like to see, but damn, their taxing me on the structure, and I should be able to do as I please. (My opinion, not the Courts, or Zoning Folks!) Keep the lights off for a while................~Scotty

I realize that your's is different, a shed vs. a barn but come-on! A genertor feed, vs. a House Feed? What's the difference????
 

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When I built a detached garage at my last house I asked the county if I could put conduit into the slab for a future power run. They said no. I asked about a water line so that "a plumber could come in later, pull a permit and run water". They said no. I asked about low voltage for phone/security/cable. They said no.

So, before the slab was poured, I had a 3" conduit and a 1" water line run under the footing and up through the floor. When the inspector came out I always made sure that there was "stuff" sitting around. An overturned bucket hid the pipes. There was enough stuff sitting around that it did not draw any attention.

Lee
 

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When I built a detached garage at my last house I asked the county if I could put conduit into the slab for a future power run. They said no. I asked about a water line so that "a plumber could come in later, pull a permit and run water". They said no. I asked about low voltage for phone/security/cable. They said no.

So, before the slab was poured, I had a 3" conduit and a 1" water line run under the footing and up through the floor. When the inspector came out I always made sure that there was "stuff" sitting around. An overturned bucket hid the pipes. There was enough stuff sitting around that it did not draw any attention.

Lee
Little power hungry paper pushers with nothing to do but justify their existence. Good job.
 

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Little power hungry paper pushers with nothing to do but justify their existence. Good job.
No doubt. They expect me to pay for a permit to have a prebuilt shed dropped on site if it is larger than 100 sf. And it is not like I can do the request online or even by mail. I have to take time off of work and drive to the county offices to pay my $50. You can guess what I did when I decided to have a 12X24 shed delivered at my current house.....

While I respect that the various licensed trade professionals had to work to earn their license, my biggest issue on that garage was that I could not simply pay for the electrical and plumbing permit and do my own rough-in. The "system" requires that I pay a licensed plumber and electrician to "pay" to submit the required paperwork. That part of the system, in my opinion, is there to protect the value of the trade license. In my case, it just encourages me to do stuff without inspections. Not only do they not get my application fee, but they forfeit the opportunity to make sure what I am doing is safe.
 

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That part of the system, in my opinion, is there to protect the value of the trade license. In my case, it just encourages me to do stuff without inspections. Not only do they not get my application fee, but they forfeit the opportunity to make sure what I am doing is safe.
The Gummint has never understood that burdensome regulations, and in some cases an outright ban on some things just results in a black-market.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Here is an update on my 10x20 shed. Providentially things have worked out. It has been a very dry April here in northern Jersey. I contacted the mason and he came out to take a look at things. He told me that it will really depend on the concrete company whether they would be able to get back behind my house to make the pour. The concrete company took a look at it 2 days ago and the mason called me and said they can get a truck back to where the pad needs to be poured :dance: then he told me that he had been put on hold at the moment on another job he is presently working on and that he could put the forms in this morning and probably pour the concrete on Friday. If not I would have to wait a couple of weeks. So I said lets do it. So now a pad will be poured tomorrow morning. The mason did the forms this morning. Thankfully I had a load of 3/4 stone on the side to put on the pad if I could not have a concrete pad. It was good because we used some of it to make the grade and I had the 990 to put it where they needed it and they had the compactor. The forms are up and the wire is down. The size of the pad will be 12' x 22' x 6". I also put a 1.25" conduit in the pad as well according to everyone's recommendation. :thumbup1gif: I will not run water back there but it would be nice to have electricity whether using a generator or if I get a little gumption to try and put a line to there all the way from the house.

I also took and smoothed out the ruts in the roadway left from when it was muddy using the ratchet rake so that the concrete truck could make it back there a little easier.

Next are the pictures:

This is the way behind the house. this is a pretty steep drop. The part of the road with the 3/4" stone has some pretty big rocks under it to help fill in the hole. It was about a 8" drop into it. I really did not want to use my 3/4 stone for this. I will try to salvage some of it after this. As I wrote, I used the ratchet rake to smooth out the rest of it. The workers with the mason really liked the ratchet rake and what it could do.


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This is looking the opposite direction up towards the house.

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Here is what the pad looks like with the forms.

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And here is the 990 with the ratchet rake on it.

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The concrete will be poured tomorrow morning at 7:30. I saw that RLTherio, one of the members of GTT who lives in the Berkshire area of MA was asking about a cure and seal for concrete for his garage he is building. You can see his thread here http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/barns-buildings/7845-new-garage.html I really like what you can learn from others on this forum. :thumbup1gif: I knew nothing about it so I did a little looking. Quikrete makes one called Acrylic Concrete Cure & Seal - Satin Finish. You can see it here QUIKRETE® - Acrylic Concrete Cure & Seal and here is the data sheet http://www.quikrete.com/PDFs/DATA_SHEET-Acrylic Concrete Cure and Seal 8730.pdf. I asked the Mason about it and he said it is a good idea to use one and that one he would not recommend is Thompsons. I guess he had some bad experience with it. I asked him about this one and he said he thinks it would be good. He told me that there was one that they use to use and it was outstanding. However it was not water based and the state of NJ had banned it! What is new, this state bands anything that is good. We have wet lands and high lands and what ever. This is one of the most liberal state that I know of and has the most restrictions. So if anyone has any suggestion on this quikrete one or if there is another brand that you found to be good I would love to hear from you as well. The mason told me that I should put it on as soon as they have it poured and have finished trowling it.

I asked him how long before I could put the building on the slab and he said in 3 days. I have to ask him how long before I can drive the tractor on it as well.

One last note, someone actually called the town and said that some one was pounding something on my property and that someone should check this out. I guess that they thought I was doing things illegally So I had a visit from a town guy today who asked me what I was doing. I told him that forms were being made to pour a concrete slab and that I was putting up a building. He asked me what size etc and I told him that it was a 10x20 building and that I had a permit and could go and get it for him. He said that that would not be necessary. He wanted my name and address and everything and then he told me that he had been looking for where this was happening for about an hour! I guess you cannot do anything on your property without someone complaining and as you can see I am in the woods though their are houses around me.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The concrete is poured and hard. :yahoo::yahoo: The truck was able to make it there and get turned around. The driver was really good.:thumbup1gif: If it was not so dry or if it would have been a typical April this could not have happened. They have a small truck as well but it will not hold 5 CY of concrete so it had to be a big tandem.

Details on the slab. 12 x 22 x 0.5. 3500 psi concrete. Just about 5 cubic yards of concrete.

Here are some picks of how things went.

Truck drove around the front of the house to the back which is uphill and slanted. I did not get any pictures first because I was holding up the telephone and cable wires so the truck could get underneath them. Then once he passed that test he had to go down the steep slope. He passed that test too and then he had to turn it around and that took some jockying. But again he was good.

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The pouring commences.

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I will do another post with more pictures.
 

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robpm, no vapor barrier?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I gather that they do not do that around here. I'm not sure why. However I did not ask. And of course it is too late now.
 

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I gather that they do not do that around here. I'm not sure why. However I did not ask. And of course it is too late now.
Still looks good, keep the pictures coming.:good2:
 

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Friday evening I applied the Quikrete Cure and Seal that I bought at Lowe's Shop QUIKRETE 1-Gallon Acrylic Concrete Cure and Seal at Lowes.com and that looks really good. It has made a very smooth surface and it is very hard. The mason said I could even put another coat on. The directions said to use 1 gallon for every 150 to 200 sqft so I used 1 1/3 gallons. I rolled it on and it went on very nicely. I have some pics of that going on.

They came this morning and removed the forms and cut the slab so hopefully that is where it will decide to crack if it is going to crack.

Here are some more pictures of the pour as promised.

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