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Discussion Starter #1
Dang it. I needed the grapple today, hooked everything up and no reaction from the open and close rocker switch and I didn't hear the diverter valves operate like usual. There is +12v at the diverter solenoid (red wire) and +12v at each of the two black wires that follow the rocker switch operation.

Then I verified the valve assembly bracket is indeed grounded. It occurred to me the valves might be frozen up, it's been 3 or 4 months since I used the grapple. So I beat on the valves a little with a steel rod and ball peen hammer (access is a bit difficult) and no joy. I kept operating the switches hoping they would start working.

There is a connection block at the top of the valve assembly for the wires but after removing two screws the block wouldn't budge. I verified voltage with needle tips for my multimeter that punctured the insulation so I suppose there could be an issue under the block. I tried to measure the coil resistance with inconclusive results.

I'm going to call WR Long Monday but in the meantime does anybody have any troubleshooting advice?
 

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Fit Rite Hydraulics
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John, the brass plunger that Kenny linked to should get the valve unstuck if that is all that the problem is. Remember one at each end. I have also heard of control grip problems, but it sounds like you have power to the solenoids, so probably stuck spools.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Kenny, I am embarrassed at my lack of Google fu, I was going to do a search but didn't see a search dialogue box on the main forum page. I owe you another case of eBeer. :cheers:
 

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Just sayin' :lol:
 

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Also, I'll repeat this again:



Anybody that has Electric over Hydraulic Valves should operate/cycle them frequently to prevent sticking-whether you have something connected or not!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yessir!
 

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Also, I'll repeat this again:



Anybody that has Electric over Hydraulic Valves should operate/cycle them frequently to prevent sticking-whether you have something connected or not!
Hmmmm, that's interesting and good advice, Kenny. Has that ever been mentioned on here before?? :hide:

:lol::lol::lol:



BTW, JohnCanfield - are you back up and running now?
 

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Seat time!

Also, I'll repeat this again:



Anybody that has Electric over Hydraulic Valves should operate/cycle them frequently to prevent sticking-whether you have something connected or not!
I've got to figure out a way to put a computer on the dash of my 790 so I can do work while getting some seat time in. That way, I would hit the third function buttons more frequently.

Maybe that's a little extreme and I should just figure out a way to get real seat time. The grapple stays on the tractor most of the time anyway so if the tractor is running the valve is getting used. By the way, a grapple works wonders to move piles of hurricane rain soaked carpet. My brother and I were helping our sister after their home got blasted by Michael so we took my tractor and grapple down there. They had stripped the house of all the wall to wall carpet and it was just in piles outside the door. They were treading the task of moving it but the grapple was perfect for the job. We also used it to set plywood on the roof, clean up debris, move cut logs, etc. After seeing what a grapple could do, I think my brother in law will get one for his little Kubota.

It's worth hitting the 3rd function switch from time to time just so it keeps working. The Artillian/Kenny set up was well worth the money and I doubt anyone with a grapple would give it up.

Treefarmer
 

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Discussion Starter #10
...BTW, JohnCanfield - are you back up and running now?
Freshly armed with new information :flag_of_truce: , I'm going to work on it this morning. I'll report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just sayin' :lol:
Hmm - I don't have that search box you pointed to. There is a light colored text that says Advanced Search :dunno:.

Okay - back to troubleshooting. I pulled the coils and they both read about 5 ohms which sounds about right. I was looking at the WR Long image of the valve and I guess this is the valve part I need to pull off and clean? I've never messed with the guts of electric over hydraulic so I'm not going to start pulling parts off until I have a game plan. I absolutely hate messing with hydraulics (and plumbing in general!)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This isn't about a WR Long Diverter, but maybe this thread will help you see what's inside these valves...

Artillian Diverter Problem
That was quite helpful Mark, thanks. My WR Long valve plate thingy is different but I'm sure the basic parts are very similar. I now have a game plan - I'm calling Long tomorrow and ordering (or maybe I can do that on-line) a new valve assembly and I'll install the new one and take apart the old one, hopefully getting it in operating condition for a spare. I can take some good quality pix of the disassembled valve assembly and post in this thread, that might help someone else.

As a side note, the two cylinders for my Top 'n Tilt kit from Brian leak down a little after 24 hours and I always retract them when I start the tractor. Now I realize I'm preserving the life of them by frequently exercising them :bigthumb:
 

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That was quite helpful Mark, thanks. My WR Long valve plate thingy is different but I'm sure the basic parts are very similar. I now have a game plan - I'm calling Long tomorrow and ordering (or maybe I can do that on-line) a new valve assembly and I'll install the new one and take apart the old one, hopefully getting it in operating condition for a spare. I can take some good quality pix of the disassembled valve assembly and post in this thread, that might help someone else.

As a side note, the two cylinders for my Top 'n Tilt kit from Brian leak down a little after 24 hours and I always retract them when I start the tractor. Now I realize I'm preserving the life of them by frequently exercising them :bigthumb:
John, I'm curious, how far do they leak down over x amount of hours?

Have you found that the leak down hinders your actual use in any way? :unknown:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Brian, I'll have to measure them but I think there's about three or four inches of shaft exposed after 24 hours. It's not an operational problem with the top link extending but the side link leaks down enough to where it tilts the box blade quite a bit. The box blade is six or seven feet wide and a relatively small change with the side cylinder makes quite a change with the blade.

I'm okay with the leak down but if you think that's really abnormal we can chat. I suppose it could be the valves or the cylinder seals as the root cause. The H180 loader leaks down about the same but then again I haven't measured those cylinders.

A side note about having top and tilt capability for the box blade (I haven't put the rear blade on yet) - it makes the box blade about 500% more productive (well, the operator). I can tilt the BB and dress the road crowns or dig a runoff swale, then return to level, extent the top cylinder several inches and put the BB in float to dress the center of the roads.

I was on the verge of buying a land plane a few months ago because I got so frustrated trying to use the BB to maintain my roads, now with the T & T capability I don't see the need for one. You can't go wrong with Fit Rite Hydraulics (not a paid advert!!)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update. First the leak-down thing, I lost track of how long the tractor sat between operation. The top cylinder only leaked down maybe 1/2" - 3/4" overnight. Apologies for a false alarm Brian :gaah: .

Back to the grapple problem. Chatted with Brian at WR Long this morning and he stepped me through some troubleshooting. There is an exposed plunger at each end of the double solenoid assembly - normally the plunger is flush but Brian asked me to push one of the two plungers in with the engine running. This would simulate electrical operation of the grapple - pushed it in and there was zero reaction from the grapple cylinders. So the conclusion was a bad solenoid/valve assembly. The manifold plate thingy under the solenoid/valve assembly is simply a 'box' for the hydraulic connectors so all of the important stuff is in the solenoid valve assembly.

WR Long won't sell to end users and I didn't want to order from my local dealer (too much hassle) but Brian said I could order on-line from Everything Attachments. So got that ordered ($187.)
 

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Also, I'll repeat this again:



Anybody that has Electric over Hydraulic Valves should operate/cycle them frequently to prevent sticking-whether you have something connected or not!
Yup, I do this every time I crank it up!!!!
 

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Update. First the leak-down thing, I lost track of how long the tractor sat between operation. The top cylinder only leaked down maybe 1/2" - 3/4" overnight. Apologies for a false alarm Brian :gaah: .

Back to the grapple problem. Chatted with Brian at WR Long this morning and he stepped me through some troubleshooting. There is an exposed plunger at each end of the double solenoid assembly - normally the plunger is flush but Brian asked me to push one of the two plungers in with the engine running. This would simulate electrical operation of the grapple - pushed it in and there was zero reaction from the grapple cylinders. So the conclusion was a bad solenoid/valve assembly. The manifold plate thingy under the solenoid/valve assembly is simply a 'box' for the hydraulic connectors so all of the important stuff is in the solenoid valve assembly.

WR Long won't sell to end users and I didn't want to order from my local dealer (too much hassle) but Brian said I could order on-line from Everything Attachments. So got that ordered ($187.)
I'm very surprised that moving the spools manually did not get it working, do you think it moved it's full range of motion?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm very surprised that moving the spools manually did not get it working, do you think it moved it's full range of motion?
I'm not really sure since I never tried to push the spool in while the diverter was operational. The WR Long guy was quick to pronounce the valve bad so we'll see what happens. If for some reason the new valve assembly doesn't fix the problem I only have $190 bucks involved and I'll have a spare. I should get a pressure gauge and make sure there is nominal hydraulic pressure going to the diverter manifold thingy.
 

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I should get a pressure gauge and make sure there is nominal hydraulic pressure going to the diverter manifold thingy.
Kenny can set you up with one of those! :good2:

As mentioned in my thread (linked above), the pressure gauge is what let me definitively diagnose which valve was faulty on mine. Super handy to have!!
 
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