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New project I'm just getting started . . . wrapping two openings from the dining room to the living room. They are about seven foot wide, six foot high, and about 12" thick. They were created when we remodeled back in the mid eighties and are made-up of the original exterior wall and the second floor support of an addition . . . hence 12" thick.

I 'boxed' them in and moved outlets months ago. Last week I picked-up this maple from my friend Leroy.
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Maple from Leroy . . . These are trimmed and measured so I know what I have to work with.
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The slabs are warped and twisted so they need some mill-work with a router to make them into useable boards. This will require me to create an eight foot working surface for the milling with a router.

I'm not sure if I'll have enough lumber, there's going to be a significant amount of waste, so we'll see.

More to follow . . .
 

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You need a Surface Planer and Table Saw.
 

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All the trim I see in your house is painted. Surely your not going to paint the Maple?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You need a Surface Planer and Table Saw.
Bonnie ~ Got both . . . but these slabs are too big for me to handle. 12" wide x 7 1/2' long x 1 1/2" thick is a lot to handle repeatedly through the planer. I'm hoping the router will do 75% of the job and then the surface planer will finish them.


All the trim I see in your house is painted. Surely your not going to paint the Maple?
Sharpie ~ Actually most of the trim is stained and matches our six panel doors. The includes base molding and wood windows.

But back to your question, the answer is no, it will not be painted. It will be stained and top-coated. Missey wants is a little rough/distressed and I'm not sure what that's going to look like at this point.

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Bonnie ~ Got both . . . but these slabs are too big for me to handle. 12" wide x 7 1/2' long x 1 1/2" thick is a lot to handle repeatedly through the planer. I'm hoping the router will do 75% of the job and then the surface planer will finish them.




Sharpie ~ Actually most of the trim is stained and matches our six panel doors. The includes base molding and wood windows.

But back to your question, the answer is no, it will not be painted. It will be stained and top-coated. Missey wants is a little rough/distressed and I'm not sure what that's going to look like at this point.

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Good Deal. I hate to see beautiful grained wood covered up with paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good Deal. I hate to see beautiful grained wood covered up with paint.
Sharpie ~ Ha . . . kinda like Missey wanting to paint the brick shown in those first two pictures above.

I've talked her out of it twice so far and hope it doesn't come-up again.

The 'used brick' is beautiful and once painted . . . "it's paint forever!"
 

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What you can do is build a box jig that is flat/ level and parallel to the boards then make a board for your Router to set on that fits into that box so the router can move LEFT to RIGHT and the Router mounting Board Runs UP and Down the the Box. Flatten one side then flip the board over and use your surface planer or the box jig to flatten the other side. I use this when I need to flatten out my detail work bench and when making large trays on the back side of a Butcher Block Cutting Board.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What you can do is build a box jig that is flat/ level and parallel to the boards then make a board for your Router to set on that fits into that box so the router can move LEFT to RIGHT and the Router mounting Board Runs UP and Down the the Box. Flatten one side then flip the board over and use your surface planer or the box jig to flatten the other side. I use this when I need to flatten out my detail work bench and when making large trays on the back side of a Butcher Block Cutting Board.
MsDaffy ~ That's just about what I've got and I set it up yesterday. If this proved to be successful I'd build one large enough to flatten my 7 1/2 ft maple boards.

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I milled about four foot of the slab and realize this ain't going to work . . . I just making chips.
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So I'm going to cut-off that four foot board and see if I can plane a couple of maple shelves out of that mess.
 
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It will work I think your board is moving or the shims are moving because I don't see how you are keeping everything from moving. I use a hot glue gun. A little dab of HOT GLUE on the shims and the board should keep everything in place. Plus you can not take a lot off at a time. It will take several passes. No more than 32 maybe a little more. The board has a big bow in it so it will flex if taking off to much at one time.
 

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Agree with the moving and with taking to much off at a time. With my 13" planner, it will only allow maybe a 1/16- 1/8" at a time.
I was wondering about a hand held electric planner. setup on a jig. The router will work, will just take a lot more passes and more time.


Either way , you will have a lot of chips. 😄
 
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It will work I think your board is moving or the shims are moving because I don't see how you are keeping everything from moving. I use a hot glue gun. A little dab of HOT GLUE on the shims and the board should keep everything in place. Plus you can not take a lot off at a time. It will take several passes. No more than 32 maybe a little more. The board has a big bow in it so it will flex if taking off to much at one time.
Agree with the moving and with taking to much off at a time. With my 13" planner, it will only allow maybe a 1/16- 1/8" at a time.
I was wondering about a hand held electric planner. setup on a jig. The router will work, will just take a lot more passes and more time.


Either way , you will have a lot of chips. 😄
MsDaffy, etcallhome ~ I have four sets of shims 'hot glued' to the slab and table on each side. I checked for flexing at all eight shim points repeatedly . . . but that doesn't mean I shouldn't check again.

I made hundreds of passes over this slab. Small 'finish passes' would need to be made if there was thickness, removing just a little at a time.

As MsDaffy said, the board has a big bow in it, I suspect the main cause of having to remove so much material.

This piece will become a shelf if I can salvage enough thickness. We're reevaluating the amount of time it will take to come up with enough boards. And we are considering other options. One is just to use the slabs 'as is' to some degree. Missey wants a 'rustic/rough' look anyhow, maybe is will be a little rougher than I first thought.

More to follow I'm sure . . .
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Well, trying something different . . . mounting the slabs 'as is'. The jury is still out and says it's too early to make a decision, but it's got possibilities I think. Also the slabs won't be wide enough once they're 'trued-up' so I'll have to scab a piece on either side.

With a little sanding, gel stain, and topcoat I believe we might have somethings acceptable to Missey.

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Anyhow, it's a start and we'll see . . .
 

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Looks like you're on the right track. Looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Worked on this one opening on/off most of the day. Trimmed the boards a little more and started putting them up.

These three planks are set. A little hole patching and they are set. You can see on the dining room side the edge of the planks need a little more stain . . . and then the 1 x's that will make up the trim.

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On the living room side I need filler boards on the three sides, and then trim boards.
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Tomorrow's another day . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Worked on this Tuesday, on & off most of the day on this project. It takes time when you have to 'custom fit' every piece of lumber to walls and openings that are not straight. (The added boards should have been stained before attaching but I was out of stain.)

It was tiring to some degree as I ended up walking back & forth to my shop a couple dozen times to do the 'custom fitting'. The trim will be added after I complete opening number two. Whether I have enough lumber or not is to be determined.

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Today I plan to work on the second opening, hoping I have enough lumber. If not back to Leroy or BIL Jim for a slab or two.
 

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Damn good job!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, openings are wrapped but trim is lacking. You see, I've used all the maple from my friend Leroy. I'll have to see what I can find, checking with Leroy and BIL Jim. I suspect I'll need 4x 1" x 12" x 7 ft slabs . That's a bunch so we'll see what happens.

Today I'll apply stain to the East opening. The West is done with stain, I just need to find something to cover the heads of the screws a little more than nothing. Then it's a couple coats with Arm-R-Seal.

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I understand why you would want to put trim around the openings for a clean finished look, but I just think it looks impressive seeing the edges of those nice thick maple boards.

Looking great!
 
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👍 👍 👍
 
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