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I had noticed over the past while my x300 seemed to be going a bit slower, yesterday my wife mentioned it had a different sound to it. Any way I have a large ditch on my property and had cut the grass in it multiple times over the past 10 years and no issues. yesterday the tractor would not climb the incline to get out of the ditch. It has 550 hours and engine oil has been change every 50 but have not done anything with rear axle trans since you kind of can't. It did look like there may be a drain and I may be able to top up but not sure. Manual says call dealership. I am open to any suggestions.
 

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I had noticed over the past while my x300 seemed to be going a bit slower, yesterday my wife mentioned it had a different sound to it. Any way I have a large ditch on my property and had cut the grass in it multiple times over the past 10 years and no issues. yesterday the tractor would not climb the incline to get out of the ditch. It has 550 hours and engine oil has been change every 50 but have not done anything with rear axle trans since you kind of can't. It did look like there may be a drain and I may be able to top up but not sure. Manual says call dealership. I am open to any suggestions.
Good chance your transmission is cooked. Your transmission has no way of changing/checking the fluid while installed in the tractor. The fluid could be burned up from years of use. Your light duty transmission doesn't handle steep hills or towing heavy loads well.
The other possibilities are
Worn drive belt
The drive pulley on top of the transmission is loose or the belt tensioning pulley is bad.
Linkage problem for forward/reverse or brake pedals.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good chance your transmission is cooked. Your transmission has no way of changing/checking the fluid while installed in the tractor. The fluid could be burned up from years of use. Your light duty transmission doesn't handle steep hills or towing heavy loads well.
The other possibilities are
Worn drive belt
The drive pulley on top of the transmission is loose or the belt tensioning pulley is bad.
Linkage problem for forward/reverse or brake pedals.

Those kind of checked out so really thinking/hoping there is and easy fix. Been looking at a K66 but 3000 to get one up here is ouch!!! Rest or tractor is fine so may go that way. I do used a dethatcher that I made, a roller and a sweeper at different times of the year and I have the snow blower for it as well. Maybe I am lucky it lasted this long?
 

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I had noticed over the past while my x300 seemed to be going a bit slower, yesterday my wife mentioned it had a different sound to it. Any way I have a large ditch on my property and had cut the grass in it multiple times over the past 10 years and no issues. yesterday the tractor would not climb the incline to get out of the ditch. It has 550 hours and engine oil has been change every 50 but have not done anything with rear axle trans since you kind of can't. It did look like there may be a drain and I may be able to top up but not sure. Manual says call dealership. I am open to any suggestions.
If you want to service You K46 transmission this will help you out
How to do an oil change on a Tuff Torq K46 transaxle - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
and if You decide to do a K66 Upgrade
John Deere X300 K66 Upgrade project - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
and here is a K70 Upgrade as well
X300 --> now a Garden Tractor - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
You can't ask the Guy that did the K70 Upgrade any questions as he is Deceased But he Left a lot of Pictures and directions how to do it
Hope these links Help:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great thanks for info. Will read it all. Think one of them I have read already but have yet to look at them.
 

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I'm guessing you've check the bypass lever to make certain it's pushed in completely?? Just a thought. :unknown:



IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! The transmission might be damaged if the bypass valve lever is not pushed back to operating position before attempting to start the engine. Do not start or operate the machine with the bypass valve lever in the push position.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just waiting to hear what sort of parts come with upgrade kit. Will see what new K46 will cost as well (mine did do well for 9 years) I plan on moving in 3 (retire) and most people want tractor with house so they do not have to buy new one so maybe cheap out now and buy new once moved. Will see what a K46 will cost before I make that decision though.
 

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Hiya,

Listing on e-Bay for replacement K46's:

JOHN DEERE Genuine OEM Transmission MIA10959 X300 serial numbers 040001 & above

is the title of the listing.
 

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Those kind of checked out so really thinking/hoping there is and easy fix. Been looking at a K66 but 3000 to get one up here is ouch!!! Rest or tractor is fine so may go that way. I do used a dethatcher that I made, a roller and a sweeper at different times of the year and I have the snow blower for it as well. Maybe I am lucky it lasted this long?
$3,000+ is a lot to spend on a 9 year old tractor.

Start with the simple things first. Especially the freewheeling lever. The drive belt and pulleys would be next. If it was never replaced it's way over due. Belt could be too loose (stretched) or the tensioning pulleys might not be making it tight enough. The pulleys could be cracked or broken. Also check the plastic fan on top of the transmission. Make sure it isn't broken or plugged with old grass. Either way it's a good sign that the transmission is toast. Also check if all the linkage rods are attached correctly.

However you have been using it as a garden tractor. This kind of use is hard on the transmission. The only way to know how much damage is done is too remove it. Do you feel comfortable doing this level of repairs?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Totally comfortable doing this level of repair just hard to justify it. Yes older tractor is it worth it???? for a grand I can get what I have and if it last the 3 years then I am probably golden(present on last 9). As nice as the upgrade may be its much $$ when I will not see it till the end I think. Once I move can upgrade then.
 

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I'm guessing you've check the bypass lever to make certain it's pushed in completely?? Just a thought. :unknown:



IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! The transmission might be damaged if the bypass valve lever is not pushed back to operating position before attempting to start the engine. Do not start or operate the machine with the bypass valve lever in the push position.
Yes it is engaged. Cut rest of my 2 acres fine just had an issue with steep part or ditch that it normally has no problem with. A week ago it was ok but had few issues but eventually went. I thought since grass was a bit wet but probably this issue instead.
 

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Yes it is engaged. Cut rest of my 2 acres fine just had an issue with steep part or ditch that it normally has no problem with. A week ago it was ok but had few issues but eventually went. I thought since grass was a bit wet but probably this issue instead.
Cutting 2 acres. You are using it hard.
Could it be that the grass was wet and one of the tires was spinning? On an open differential when one tire spins you stop.

If the transmission works fine otherwise and you are not afraid to get your hands dirty. I'd pull the trans and change the fluid. Then put a new drive belt on when going back together. It might buy you another 3 years. With the heavy use that you described I'm sure that fluid has seen better days.

Usually how an automatic transmission dies is from excessive heat. The fluid brakes down and hard part failures follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok came home from work pulled off body panel/seat and tank checked it all over cleaned(was not very dirty at all) Used a draw tube and pulled a few ounces of oil out. I work in an oil screening facility so hope to run some tests tomorrow. Does anyone know what comes in it? Replacement 5w50? Does not look too hard to pull rest out and drain. Hope to once i have materials. Put back together and rode around. Climbed right up the hill no issues with deck on and off. even went up a steeper hill no issues. When i tried before i had been running for about 1/2 hour today was about 2 minutes after i started it up. In all honesty the oil does not look too bad considering....
 

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I just have to throw this in here - don't laugh - true story.

We had a member who was having similar symptoms with his tractor while plowing in the winter. Went along OK when not pushing much but when the plow (or snowblower?) loaded up the tractor stopped moving. No change in engine RPM or funny noises - no weird feeling in the go pedal.

Turns out one of the rear tires broke the bead from the wheel but was not noticable. What was happening was the wheel itself was spinning inside the tire.

Won't cost you anything to check this before you start dismantling and/or spending money. Have someone watch the valve stem on the wheel when the tractor (trans) starts slipping. If the wheel is spinning faster than the tire........
 

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I just have to throw this in here - don't laugh - true story.

We had a member who was having similar symptoms with his tractor while plowing in the winter. Went along OK when not pushing much but when the plow (or snowblower?) loaded up the tractor stopped moving. No change in engine RPM or funny noises - no weird feeling in the go pedal.

Turns out one of the rear tires broke the bead from the wheel but was not noticable. What was happening was the wheel itself was spinning inside the tire.

Won't cost you anything to check this before you start dismantling and/or spending money. Have someone watch the valve stem on the wheel when the tractor (trans) starts slipping. If the wheel is spinning faster than the tire........
Or use a paint pen/chalk and put a line on the rim and tire like drag racers used to do. You may very well have tire slippage, that is not uncommon on a tractor even a lawn tractor like yours. I assume your tires are 9 years old like the rest of the tractor?

The K46's are not known for long life so it maybe dying on you. If you can swap out the fluid that can really help, it has been through a lot of heat cycles in 9 years especially being in Canada and if you use it for winter work.

Good luck with your issue, hopefully you fix it.
 

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Ok came home from work pulled off body panel/seat and tank checked it all over cleaned(was not very dirty at all) Used a draw tube and pulled a few ounces of oil out. I work in an oil screening facility so hope to run some tests tomorrow. Does anyone know what comes in it? Replacement 5w50? Does not look too hard to pull rest out and drain. Hope to once i have materials. Put back together and rode around. Climbed right up the hill no issues with deck on and off. even went up a steeper hill no issues. When i tried before i had been running for about 1/2 hour today was about 2 minutes after i started it up. In all honesty the oil does not look too bad considering....


5W50 I think stock fill is conventional but from what I read synthetic is highly recommended.

Slipping problems usually get worse when hot. Seeing it works good most of the time makes me think you are not to late charging your fluid. Just being 9 years old is reason enough for me. Especially seeing you need to squeeze a few more years out of it.

My old L108 made it 9 years on the stock fluid. The first 2 were fairly easy. The last 7 were very hard. This is what I told the the guy I sold it to. If you plan on keeping this tractor a long time. Change the fluid and install a new drive belt. The sooner the better.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks will try and get belt and oil tomorrow on way home belt did look good though but hey 9 years. I think later in week will pull off drain and reinstall and fill. Not too bad getting deck/seat and tank out of way mower i know comes off easyish so hopefully in 2 evenings have it done. Keep you posted.
 

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Thanks will try and get belt and oil tomorrow on way home belt did look good though but hey 9 years. I think later in week will pull off drain and reinstall and fill. Not too bad getting deck/seat and tank out of way mower i know comes off easyish so hopefully in 2 evenings have it done. Keep you posted.
Id recommend getting a John Deere belt. They are more money but fit better and last longer.
 

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Hiya,

Listing on e-Bay for replacement K46's:

JOHN DEERE Genuine OEM Transmission MIA10959 X300 serial numbers 040001 & above

is the title of the listing.
Thanks. Looked that up 878 not bad. Would end up about 1100 to my door I think.
While it may be premature to replace the transaxle, if you do get to that point you could also go to GreenFarmParts for the same transaxle MIA10959 for $868.95 - $60.83 using the 7% off GTT coupon code. I put in a Toronto postal code and shipping was $64.84, for a total cost of $872.96.

Another approach is to rebuild the K46. There's a ton of information and videos on the internet. If you do go this route, be sure to take pictures and show us the story!
 
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