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Discussion Starter #1
My 2006 X320 seemed to be short of power recently when operating with the power flow unit. Find out it was running on one cylinder-I go to check the plugs and find the plug wire was severed at the shroud. So I purchase a new coil from dealer along with the wire harness to fuel solenoid as it was frayed by mice. I replace these two pretty easily and now mower will not start.

I have spark at both plugs, but only when the ground wires are detached from coils. But the mower should still start without these connected, correct? Safety switches at seat and brake are good as I tested these. Did not test safety switch for PTO as have not found it yet. The fuel solenoid does not "click" when key is turned on. I can get the mower to fire for a few seconds when gas is squirted into carb with air filter removed. So it seems like there is no gas getting in to carb. I have choked it plenty but no smell of gas. Disconnected gas line just after the vacuum fuel pump and gas does squirt out when turning the engine over. Did not disconnect the next hose segment as it would be very difficult to reconnect without pulling off carb. But there is fuel in the bottom of the carb bowl where the solenoid is located. Twice I have drained it.


So I seem to have it narrowed down to the solenoid, I think. (I have plugged and unplugged it on both ends several times to make sure I have a good connection, even reconnected the old frayed one but does not help.) But still not sure why I have no spark when the grounds are disconnected to the coils. I suspect these are related but have run out of ideas.

Any thoughts/suggestions? Many thanks for your help!
 

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The mags should fire without the ground wires hooked up. Sounds like the safty systems are grounding the coils for some reason. If the pto is engaged the engine will not start. Also see if you have power at the fuel selonoid when the key is on. That would starve it for fuel. When you had it running I take it it's with the ground disconnected & spraying carb cleaner into the intake.
 

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I would say you have a bad interlock module. It controls the ground to the coils to shut off engine and also controls the fuel shutoff solenoid. It is located up under the dash, near the hour meter. Its a small black module, 2in by 4in, held in place by one screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The mags should fire without the ground wires hooked up. Sounds like the safty systems are grounding the coils for some reason. If the pto is engaged the engine will not start. Also see if you have power at the fuel selonoid when the key is on. That would starve it for fuel. When you had it running I take it it's with the ground disconnected & spraying carb cleaner into the intake.
Yes, that's what I am thinking that a safety switch is grounding out, as I do not have spark when the ground cables are connected to the coils. PTO is not engaged, although maybe the safety switch for this is not working correctly. I don't have power to solenoid, at least I don't think so as there is no "click" when key is turned on; and given no fuel is getting to carb. When I had it running initially and was picking up leaves a week ago everything seemed to be working fine other than short of power, and coil ground wires were connected. I replace the two items mentioned with new parts from JD and now I have this problem, they were easy enough to replace and I figured I would have the machine running again without problem. It does fire up when I squirt a little gas in carb with air cleaner removed, this is why so I do not believe there is power to solenoid.

If it is a safety switch issue, does it cut power to solenoid too? (In addition to coil ground wires.) I have to figure out why no power to ground wires on coils, and no power to solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would say you have a bad interlock module. It controls the ground to the coils to shut off engine and also controls the fuel shutoff solenoid. It is located up under the dash, near the hour meter. Its a small black module, 2in by 4in, held in place by one screw.
Thanks. Maybe that is the problem if it controls power to both the fuel solenoid and the coils, as I don't have power to either. What else does that module control? Is there a way to be sure this is causing my problem? Maybe I can check 1-2 more things just to be sure before I order one of these. I see it, and looks to be easily replaced. Just seems odd that everything was working fine other than short of power, and I replace a coil/spark plug wire, and the wire harness to fuel solenoid and now I have this problem. Maybe I shorted something when removing and replacing these items.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update: I unplugged the solenoid wire upstream to where the positive wire plugs in to another wire harness and ran a jumper wire from battery + to the unplugged solenoid wire +, mower started right up! So fuel solenoid is good. I even hear it "click" on once I ran the jumper and turned on the key.

The ground wires were still off the coils, when running. I plugged each one in separately and the engine lost power - dropping down to one cylinder am guessing. I also pulled button to engage the mower deck but it would not come on; motor still ran when I tried to engage mower. I let engine run for a about 10 min and turn key off and it wouldn't shut down. I pulled off my jumper and after a few seconds it sputtered to a stop.

One last thing, while the motor was running for the 10 min the hour meter display was no longer on. Worked before.

Does this now narrow it down without question to the interlock module that xcopterdoc mentioned? Or could this still be the PTO safety switch?
 

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That is typical of a bad module. To tell the truth, I have never actually trouble shot one down to the module. I bought one from our parts dept and I use it as a known good one. So when a mower comes in with no spark, i swap mine in and fire it up. Swapnostics! Quick fast and in a hurry.
By chance did you charge the battery or jump start with the battery still hooked up?
 

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That is typical of a bad module. To tell the truth, I have never actually trouble shot one down to the module. I bought one from our parts dept and I use it as a known good one. So when a mower comes in with no spark, i swap mine in and fire it up. Swapnostics! Quick fast and in a hurry.
By chance did you charge the battery or jump start with the battery still hooked up?
Swapnostics! :laugh: I'm a big fan, but never had a name for it until now.
 

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If you don't want to do the try me by me thing with the module check out the pto circuit first. My ex brother in law gave me an old JD tractor (metal hood without head lights) because no one could figure out why I wouldn't run. Long story short it turned out to be the metal pto switch on the fender. It was worn out & kept the pto engaged at all times. If I remember correctly just unplugging the switch didn't solve the problem. I had install a jumper wire between two of the terminals. This told the safety systems that the switch was disengaged allowing it to start. One clue to the problem was every time I cranked the engine Icould hear the electric/magnetic clutch click on.
 

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That is typical of a bad module. To tell the truth, I have never actually trouble shot one down to the module. I bought one from our parts dept and I use it as a known good one. So when a mower comes in with no spark, i swap mine in and fire it up. Swapnostics! Quick fast and in a hurry.
By chance did you charge the battery or jump start with the battery still hooked up?
Looks like I will be trying your Swapnostics as I will be picking up a new module. Although I would like to be sure this is the actual problem before paying $70+ for a new module. Can't return it given it is an "electronic part." But if the new module makes it all work as it should, I will be happy to have it all fixed. I have spent too much time tinkering around with this. I thought it would be a quick fix initially with the new coil and solenoid wire . I should know within a few minutes of getting the new module if this is the problem -> install module, plug ground wires back in to coils, plug fuel solenoid wire back in, and cross my fingers.

No I didn't charge or jump the battery, I know that can cause trouble if you don't disconnect battery cables first.
 

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Looks like I will be trying your Swapnostics as I will be picking up a new module. Although I would like to be sure this is the actual problem before paying $70+ for a new module. Can't return it given it is an "electronic part." But if the new module makes it all work as it should, I will be happy to have it all fixed. I have spent too much time tinkering around with this. I thought it would be a quick fix initially with the new coil and solenoid wire . I should know within a few minutes of getting the new module if this is the problem -> install module, plug ground wires back in to coils, plug fuel solenoid wire back in, and cross my fingers.

No I didn't charge or jump the battery, I know that can cause trouble if you don't disconnect battery cables first.
Crap, new module did nothing. So am back to not being able to start the mower unless the ground wires are off the coils and I jump the fuel solenoid wire directly to battery. Gotta be something simple I am missing. Any other thoughts or suggestions? Otherwise I guess I will have to load it up and take it in to the dealer which is always an expensive trip.
 

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Send pic of module you changed please. Include part number. Did the box the part was in look tampered with?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
JD X320 ECM.jpg JD X320 ECM Pic 2.jpg
Send pic of module you changed please. Include part number. Did the box the part was in look tampered with?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Attached are 2 pics, the original is on the left. The new one along with package box is on right. Box was good, not tampered. The new module nice and clean, not marked up at all. Got it from local JD dealer.

To answer other question, No the PTO does not engage after starting mower. When I release park brake and get off seat, the motor does not shut down either. Nor does the tranny engage forward or backward. And, the hour meter is not lit up. This is all the same whether old or new module is plugged in. I shut it down by connecting both coil wires - motor shuts right down. Interesting, it will also start without a module plugged in - the same way as above without coil wires plugged in and a jumper to fuel solenoid.

Everything worked as it should before I started what appeared to be simple repair. Other than the low power which obviously was because it was running on 1 cylinder. The hour meter, PTO, safety seat switch, etc. all operated as it should prior to replacing damaged coil wire and frayed fuel solenoid wire. There are 3 fuses and the all are good. Appreciate your reply above with your additional questions. I suspect there is a fix that is not terribly complicated, but I can't seem to narrow it down.
 

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Send pic of module you changed please. Include part number. Did the box the part was in look tampered with?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
FYI- the module is not the exact part number as original. The dealer indicated he had to cross reference to an updated replacement part.
 

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View attachment 69234 View attachment 69242

Attached are 2 pics, the original is on the left. The new one along with package box is on right. Box was good, not tampered. The new module nice and clean, not marked up at all. Got it from local JD dealer.

To answer other question, No the PTO does not engage after starting mower. When I release park brake and get off seat, the motor does not shut down either. Nor does the tranny engage forward or backward. And, the hour meter is not lit up. This is all the same whether old or new module is plugged in. I shut it down by connecting both coil wires - motor shuts right down. Interesting, it will also start without a module plugged in - the same way as above without coil wires plugged in and a jumper to fuel solenoid.

Everything worked as it should before I started what appeared to be simple repair. Other than the low power which obviously was because it was running on 1 cylinder. The hour meter, PTO, safety seat switch, etc. all operated as it should prior to replacing damaged coil wire and frayed fuel solenoid wire. There are 3 fuses and the all are good. Appreciate your reply above with your additional questions. I suspect there is a fix that is not terribly complicated, but I can't seem to narrow it down.
Forget the part about the tranny, it's fine. It's been several days since I have worked on it and I simply forgot to push in the tranny release after pushing the mower in to the shop. :oops:

I also took off the mower deck which is no simple task on these, I have an older LX 188 and it's a breeze compared to this X320. Anyway, thought maybe the mower deck could be creating a problem somehow, and went through the same checks with both modules again and got the same result as above.
 

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Never seen this one before.. I'll go thru some schematics and see if anything jumps out at me.
Posting this with great humility. Guessing this was an electrical problem, I spent a couple hours looking at all connections. Unplugging electrical connections, cleaning them with a brush, using compressed air, etc. to ensure I have solid connections. I even was using a magnifying glass to look in and around the electrical plugs and connections to see if there were any bad wires or damage. After cleaning each connection, I would go through the steps of trying to start the mower using each module, etc. Nothing changed. I pretty much accepted that I would be loading the machine and taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Second guessing everything I had previously done, I decided to pull the fuses for the 3rd or 4th time to look at them. Given I had the magnifying glass in the shop I used it to look at the fuses. You guessed it, one of the fuses was blown. It was the second to the bottom, a 7.5 amp fuse. The break in the fuse was literally a hair line. I could not see the separation without the magnifying glass, and there wasn't discoloration to the plastic fuse case which is pretty typical. I had to hold it just right even with the magnifying glass to see it. I had held those fuses up against light to look at them more than once and believed they all were good.

So I picked up a new 50 cent fuse, plugged it in. Reconnected the coil ground wires, and plugged the fuel solenoid wire properly, and turned the key. Fired right up. Pulled the PTO switch and it engaged. I put everything back together and made a couple rounds around the yard to cut some grass in the dark tonight. Felt good! I suppose that fuse must have gone faulty while removing and replacing the new coil and fuel solenoid wire.

So, although a bit embarrassing, I felt I needed to follow up in the event this may help somebody else. Hate to think of the hours I spent working on this thing to find out the part I needed was less than a buck! The upside is one always learns more about your equipment when you spend so much time trying to repair them on your own. Thanks to those that offered suggestions! Hopefully all will be good tomorrow as I get after all the leaves covering my yard.
 

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That's why the have 2 exposed metal ends on the face of the fuse. They are on either side of the rateing number. You check it with a test light or multi meter without even removing the fuse. If they both have power the fuse is good. If only one side is hot the fuse is blown.
Early on I learned you need 3 things before you can even start to diagnose an electrical problem.
1. A test light & multi meter
2. Be absolutely sure the battery is 100% good & charged.
3. Good battery cables hooked up correctly.
 
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