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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hope someone can help a near-desperate man:

2010 X320, 180 hours.

Machine does everything well except run continuously. I need a machine I can operate continuously for 2 1/2 hours on 2 ½ acres.

Problem:
Tractor stops running after 20-30 minutes Summer, 40-60 minutes Fall. This has become more frequent over past 3 years. It seems to be heat and time related. There is no sputtering or power loss, it just quits. Tractor will restart but backfires through muffler and will stall again. If cooled 20-30 minutes it will restart without backfiring and run but will stop running 5-10 minutes later. Following stall, fuel filter consistently contains low/no visible fuel.

I have serviced it per JD’s schedule and used their parts.

Disabled seat switch by shunting the wire. This was originally thought to cause the stalling problem.
Drilled out fuel cap to improve tank ventilation.
Removed fuel tank and flushed out debris.
Blew out fuel line.
Replaced fuel filter.
Replaced Mikuni fuel pump.
Removed in-tank fuel pickup line and found evidence that it had kinked at the 90 degree angle it makes inside the fuel tank and could collapse momentarily during use. Replaced in-tank fuel pickup line. Problem persists.
Drained the carburetor through fuel bowl.
Checked valve clearances.
Checked spark plug condition and gaps.
Replaced both coil packs (chewed by mice). Set gaps to specification.
Checked continuity of wiring to voltage regulator, coil packs and battery.
Checked function of ignition relay.
Checked continuity of voltage regulator and voltage output to specs.
Replaced battery
Removed fuel solenoid shut off valve from carburator. Problem persisted.
Relocated voltage regulator to cooler grounded location, problem persisted.
Checked exhaust header temperatures, same for both cylinders suggesting equal output.
Operated with and without the heat shield over the muffler. It seemed to run longer without it but eventually stalls.
Have ECU AM141075. There is no way to diagnose it but engine start and PTO interlocks work as intended.
I have not tested the stator output or disassembled the carburetor. There’s supposed to be a diode somewhere but I can’t find it.

Impression: Intermittent fuel starvation, vapor lock or crankcase pressure anomaly affecting "pulse" actualted fuel pump.

Machine does everything well except run continuously. I need a machine I can operate continuously for 2 1/2 hours on 2 ½ acres.

Will consider inserting stent at bend inside the line and add an in-tank filter. Also consider relocating the fuel pick up access to another location to eliminate the 90 degree bend. Will consider Facet electric fuel pump.

Other: There is no fuel gauge. The fill cap unscrews easily and can fall off. The Mikuni fuel pump depends on “engine pulses” to operate. The in-tank vinyl line hardens in time and fuel line path is circuitous. Fuel tank is blow molded and hard to remove and clean.

Can someone help?
 

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Welcome from West Virginia


:wgtt:

Seems you have done anything and everything. Wish I could help but no suggestion , but sure someone on here should be able to help. :dunno:
 

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My guess is if you found debris in the fuel tank, some of it might have bypassed the fuel filter and made its way into the carb. I've seen fuel restriction issues cause empty fuel lines and in see through filters. Also to consider, all fuel line connections from the tank to the fuel pump must be airtight.

The carb should be removed and cleaned. Some advise against running small cleaning rods thru the carb orifices but sometimes that is the only solution. Small torch tip cleaning kits have some pretty small cleaning wires/drills in them. Pressurized air can help here too.

Odd though that the time of operation related to ambient temps seem to affect the unit. My other thought would be the inability of the electrical components to properly heat sink to their mounting surfaces. Some electrical coils/ECM's need a heat sink compound for them to properly dissipate the heat generated by them.

I'm not familiar with the x320 and searching the archives here did bring up a similar circumstance to yours. Sadly, no solution was offered or posted regarding the result of that problem.

I feel your pain and wish I could be of more help.

I hope you find a solution and post the results so that someone else might benefit later on.
 
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I feel your pain, too. If your model has the "two barrel" carb. I know why you have left it for last. I won't say you definitely have a fuel delivery problem, but will relate something from a different model Mikuni carb. on an LX188. This was found on two different machines. Symptoms were similar your air cooled twin.

The fuel inlet to the float needle was very small compared to the old gas gobblers I'm more familiar with. A very small rubbery feeling piece was found in each of these. It had to be blown out from the needle seat side. It may have come from the mechanical fuel pump, or the old rubber fuel line from pump to carb. Don't know.

Even though this was a very different machine and carburetor, it is something for you to look for. Please keep us informed and hoping you find the solution soon.

tommyhawk
 

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I feel your pain, too. If your model has the "two barrel" carb. I know why you have left it for last. I won't say you definitely have a fuel delivery problem, but will relate something from a different model Mikuni carb. on an LX188. This was found on two different machines. Symptoms were similar your air cooled twin.

The fuel inlet to the float needle was very small compared to the old gas gobblers I'm more familiar with. A very small rubbery feeling piece was found in each of these. It had to be blown out from the needle seat side. It may have come from the mechanical fuel pump, or the old rubber fuel line from pump to carb. Don't know.

Even though this was a very different machine and carburetor, it is something for you to look for. Please keep us informed and hoping you find the solution soon.

tommyhawk
Interesting you mention the rubber bits. When I was into classic cars the major complaint was the effect of ethanol on rubber fuel lines. The workaround for that was to buy fuel injection system rubber lines. Those have a blue rubber liner in them that is supposedly impervious to ethanol laced fuels.
 

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continuous running problem

I had a Gator CX which did about the exact same :banghead:

Was under warranty & my dealer put over $750.oo in it in time & parts.
I got it back & same-0-same-0 :nunu:

Was talking to a friend & small engines guy at the fair, he told me he ONLY runs NON - ETHANOL gas,
actually prefers aviation gas but will use the "high test" gasoline.

I emptied the tank & refilled with new high octane gas....
NEVER quit again :bigthumb:

I hope this helps!!!
 
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Check the vent on your fuel cap, mine did the same thing, ran for 20-30 min and died. Rubber seal on the underside of the cap had dirt and debris in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
X320 stalls after 20 minutes

I cleaned the fuel tank and disassembled the Nikki carburetor. I ordered Gates Barricade Carburetor fuel line to replace all the suspect line and filter. If it still stalls I'll add the electric fuel pump. I'll advise outcome. My Honda H4013 NEVER did this.
 

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daves x320, my 1978 wheel horse in 2003 had been performing almost the same way ur saying, what fixed it--not a new switch, but the plug in! somehow the wires in their was not getting onto the plugs when I would push it back on the whole way, but everything would work for a while until it I guess would get warm and then shut down. walk away and then come back and it would run, very aggravating, took a small screwdriver and pushed the wires farther up on the switch and it ran like new again, that took 2 different summers to solve that puzzle. good luck, big jim​
 

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At first I was thinking electrical/spark too, but re-reading the OP, it says "Following stall, fuel filter consistently contains low/no visible fuel." and it does restart immediately after stall. I think he's on the right track looking at the fuel system. Replacing all the fuel lines may help, and look at any hard lines too. I remember an incident where there was a pinhole behind a rubber clamp on a hard line. Most of the time it was covered, but occasionally the hole became uncovered (lines heating up-expansion and contraction, etc) and let air in. Look for the cause of the empty fuel filter.

Also you didn't mention the screen at the pick-up (if there's one there), that could get clogged too.

Good Luck ... Just my 2 cents.
 
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At first I was thinking electrical/spark too, but re-reading the OP, it says "Following stall, fuel filter consistently contains low/no visible fuel." and it does restart immediately after stall. I think he's on the right track looking at the fuel system. Replacing all the fuel lines may help, and look at any hard lines too. I remember an incident where there was a pinhole behind a rubber clamp on a hard line. Most of the time it was covered, but occasionally the hole became uncovered (lines heating up-expansion and contraction, etc) and let air in. Look for the cause of the empty fuel filter.

Also you didn't mention the screen at the pick-up (if there's one there), that could get clogged too.

Good Luck ... Just my 2 cents.
I had the exact same problem. I had taken my x320 into the dealership this summer and they sent mine back after a couple of days along with a $250 bill and said it ran fine after cleaning the gas tank out and putting a new fuel filter in. Apparently there was some water in the gas. I put fresh gas in and after running for about an hour it started doing the exact same problem again. I decided it had to be a fuel delivery problem. I took off the gas tank, cleaned it again, made sure the pickup tube was clean and then replaced all of the gas line. After I had replaced the gas line everything ran perfectly. I blew through the old gas line from the tank to the fuel filter and out pops a ball of debris. You would think the dealership would have done their due diligence and made sure there was no clog anywhere. I will not go back to that dealership anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
X320 stalls after 20 minutes

Update:

I have the X320 that stalls after 20 minutes. Please recall my lengthy diagnosis and suspicion that it was fuel related. I did remove and flush the tank, replaced all the fuel lines and installed a Facet electric fuel pump. The Facet pump helped but stalling did persist although less frequent. I had to remove the flimsy bonnet also exposing the motor to branches and myself to moving parts.

Ultimately, I removed and replaced the carburetor gaskets and seals and weighted the fuel pickup so it would remain in the lower right hand corner of the tank and not turn or curl. There was no dirt in the carb and the gaskets appeared to be tight. The inlet needle was in good shape and as was the float. The jets are sealed so I could only blow them out.

The problem SEEMS to have remitted. Now, I have to use the choke every time I start it, hot or cold. I replaced the Facet fuel pump with the Mikuni. I am grateful for the resolution but still very disappointed in my X320.

Thank you all for sharing your advice.

Dave's X320
 

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Update:

I have the X320 that stalls after 20 minutes. Please recall my lengthy diagnosis and suspicion that it was fuel related. I did remove and flush the tank, replaced all the fuel lines and installed a Facet electric fuel pump. The Facet pump helped but stalling did persist although less frequent. I had to remove the flimsy bonnet also exposing the motor to branches and myself to moving parts.

Ultimately, I removed and replaced the carburetor gaskets and seals and weighted the fuel pickup so it would remain in the lower right hand corner of the tank and not turn or curl. There was no dirt in the carb and the gaskets appeared to be tight. The inlet needle was in good shape and as was the float. The jets are sealed so I could only blow them out.

The problem SEEMS to have remitted. Now, I have to use the choke every time I start it, hot or cold. I replaced the Facet fuel pump with the Mikuni. I am grateful for the resolution but still very disappointed in my X320.

Thank you all for sharing your advice.

Dave's X320
dave's x320;; I have a Honda 4-wheeler that if it's 80* outside I have to pull the choke out till it fires up. been like that since new. always starts, but just with the choke. good luck, big jim
 

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The problem SEEMS to have remitted.
I hope it's gone for good, Dave. My two cents: to me it seems to have all the makings of a case of vapor lock and my guess is that your fuel may be responsible. My '07 X320 has had a quirk since new where it would occasionally backfire upon shutdown. My dealer advised me to let it idle a few minutes before shutdown. That didn't help nor did a later recommendation to shut it down from a medium speed. What did help was to switch to ethanol free fuel when it became available in my area. The problem went away. Just for grins a I ran a couple of tanks of 87 octane E10 through it last month and the problem returned.
In your case it is quite possible you might have gotten gasoline that was "overblended", that is it had more than 10% ethanol in it. Cars and trucks are more forgiving of that, outdoor power equipment including your and my X320's and especially two cycle motors, not so much.

Being in CT ethanol free fuel may be hard to find so you're probably stuck with E10. 1. I'd try a different station, preferably brand name and high volume so the fuel is fresh. 2. Buy no more than you can use in 30 days (JD's recommendation) for two reasons. E10 deteriorates rather quickly- if I have to
have to use E10 I add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel can right after I purchase the fuel. The other thing is that refiners seasonally adjust something called Reid vapor pressure, a measure of gasoline's volatility. Lower in summer to avoid vapor lock and higher in winter to aid starting and operation in cold weather. Some years ago a southern big city police department (who shall remain nameless) somehow got a load of winter gasoline delivered during hot weather. It was a vapor lock epidemic with police cruisers being towed in left and right.
 

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Mine does basically the same thing. However, mine ran perfectly for 10 years. Then it was time to completely change out all the filters (including fuel), plugs, etc. Then immediately the problem started. I double & triple checked everything to make sure gaps were right, filters installed right, plugs snug, etc. Then it started running better than ever, but soon would do as you described, stall after 30 min to an hour of mowing. Observed that when it does this, the fuel filter is low on fuel & when running well, filter seems much more full. Blew out the lines, tank, etc. for obstructions. If I can catch it just right, I can choke it & keep it from stalling I noticed, but you have to catch it just right. Then after AGAIN double & rechecking everything (used to just do it once, right) I read that maybe it was this new Corn Oil Fuel, so I started running the Ethanol Free only & thought I had figured it out. It ran for four or five good mowings of a little over 2 hours a pop, perfectly. Then it started again. I am wondering if it is just possessed or maybe the new parts were possessed. It is really weird & why it just started with the brand new parts is beyond me.
 

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Mine does basically the same thing. However, mine ran perfectly for 10 years. Then it was time to completely change out all the filters (including fuel), plugs, etc. Then immediately the problem started. I double & triple checked everything to make sure gaps were right, filters installed right, plugs snug, etc. Then it started running better than ever, but soon would do as you described, stall after 30 min to an hour of mowing. Observed that when it does this, the fuel filter is low on fuel & when running well, filter seems much more full. Blew out the lines, tank, etc. for obstructions. If I can catch it just right, I can choke it & keep it from stalling I noticed, but you have to catch it just right. Then after AGAIN double & rechecking everything (used to just do it once, right) I read that maybe it was this new Corn Oil Fuel, so I started running the Ethanol Free only & thought I had figured it out. It ran for four or five good mowings of a little over 2 hours a pop, perfectly. Then it started again. I am wondering if it is just possessed or maybe the new parts were possessed. It is really weird & why it just started with the brand new parts is beyond me.
Hi.....I hope you had a successful outcome. Our X320 is doing exactly the same. When we run it long enough to get hot (30 minutes) it just shuts down, and then 2 seconds later backfires. We can’t start again until cool. Occasionally we can save it from shutting down by vigorously moving the throttle or apply the choke but that is becoming less frequent. Help please!
 

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Welcome to the forum Wimbers. You didn't really say what if anything you have done or saw in regards to solving the issue. I've seen fuel delivery issues more common such as described in this thread. I've seen an ECU fail hot and shut the machine down. Other things could exist, but a dialogue is at least a two way street.
 

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My x320 i've repowered with a new fr651 old owner wrecked the engine, bought the tractor as a basket case $350.00, recently half way threw summer it was acting up mind you the engine has 20 hrs on the repower. I have cleaned the tank, coils are fine, so i threw a ecu at it still did it, so im going to throw a fuel cap at it..when i used it last i just left it loose..no problem..
 
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