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Discussion Starter #1
yesterday while mowing my yard, my 475 just up and shut off on me. i changed my fuel filter today. but no good, still won't fire. even tried dumping a bit of gas down in the carb. good or bad idea:dunno: no go-so i pulled a plug out-dry as a bone. i have fire at the plug!
i have been studying my tech manual since. it seems it might be a gas solenoid or i guess a fuel shut off:dunno:is what it's called. anyways it clicks when the key is turned on. kinda acts like the way my 2520 did-when the diode blew out on me.

the tech manual shows u to check it with a muti-meter. i have one-but have never master it. heck i don't even understand all the stuff printed on the front of it.
bad-bad time to break down for sure-as jd is backed up for at least 2 to 3 weeks now. i can mow with my 2520 once it dries out at least.
but for once i'dl like to fix it myself-if possible.:unknown: i'm gonna go back and fine where or if any diode's are in this wiring harness. will check back in later. thanks -as i think i need help.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
WELL i have my seat pan off now. i have done all my fuses-ok. i haven't found the doide yet. but after i had the seat pan off, i rehooked the seat switch, and turned on the key-i then took the fuel line off-past the filter-jeez-fuel shot out of like a missile.
so now tomorrow i will try to take the fuel shut off. i don't know how i'm gonna fit my fingers into that hole-but i will try.

if i want my gas gauge to work-it will be a $300 bill for everything. its on the way.

i was hoping for some help from chuck or travs maybe.
 

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So lets take it step by step.. She cut off. You gave it a lil fuel..no go. It has spark. It outta go. At least for a sec.
If it aint..isnt getting fuel to the cylinder.. Open/closed valves or no rotation of the crank/pistons.
You verified spark.. Check
Verified fuel.. Check.
Now verify crank/piston rotation/valves moving and make sure your flywheel key didnt shear.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Jim,You'll want to put the meter on DC volts to check for power.Put it on a setting like 20 volts (each meter is different) and follow the trouble chart.It could be a relay or the fuel shut off itself.Another thing to check is the wires in the wire loom.If they rub anywhere it could be shorting out.I had a main wire feed on my x595 that was rubbing on a bolt head and caused a short on a wire that rubbed through the casing.Give it a good looking over before throwing parts at it.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So lets take it step by step.. She cut off. You gave it a lil fuel..no go. It has spark. It outta go. At least for a sec.
If it aint..isnt getting fuel to the cylinder.. Open/closed valves or no rotation of the crank/pistons.
You verified spark.. Check
Verified fuel.. Check.
Now verify crank/piston rotation/valves moving and make sure your flywheel key didnt shear.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
thanks for answering-:good2:

once i got my seat pan off--i have fuel coming past my gas filter. so my next step is to try and take the fuel shut off.
i hope i can take that off-without much trouble-but boy-there isn't much room to work there.

i think i will try giving a little fuel again-as i poured it in the wrong spot-:banghead: i thought that i was pouring down the throat-but here it ran out on top of the carb. my fault on that. i then several hrs later realized what i had down wrong.

it cranks ok-it has all the little lights come on ok-in the dash-i have tried it with out the brake on-no go. so i feel the brake sensor is working -ok. pto switch if up won't let it crank over-push it down-it cranks.

i was reading in my tech manual-and it said if ur spark is a little yellow-change out ur plugs-so i will try that tomorrow-as i have new ones-from last yrs maintenance kit.

last i am working on looking at the diodes-to locate them-as that is what was wrong with my 2520 3 yrs ago-to as why it wouldn't run.

my next question-if i pour a little gas down into the carb. will it try to run with the fuels hut off-not working right?

thanks a million as like i said jd is backed up 2 to 3 weeks right now.bad time to break down.
 

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Even without the fuel shut off working, as long as you have spark and compression, it outta fire off. The fuel shut off is really an anti backfire solenoid. It cuts off fuel when key switch is off but motor still rotating on shut down.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Even without the fuel shut off working, as long as you have spark and compression, it outta fire off. The fuel shut off is really an anti backfire solenoid. It cuts off fuel when key switch is off but motor still rotating on shut down.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
ok-good-i will try the fuel in the carb. tomorrow.
if it won't fire-i will then look to see if the pistons are moving up and down.

thanks a lot. i really appreciate it.:bigthumb:
 

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Instead of pouring fuel down the carb use some kind of flammable carb cleaner or starting fluid SPRAY. Just give it a good shot then try to start the engine. If your no start problem is fuel related it should run momentarily. Sometimes you can keep it running by giving it repeated shots. Back in my tech days we had a full size Dodge van that would just cut out randomly from no fuel. We drove it back to the shop by doing this. My coworker drove while I sat in the passenger seat. I was feeding the throttle body with a can of carb cleaner. We had the engine cover and air cleaner removed.

This is the reason you should use spray instead of pouring in liquid gas. Engines run on a mixture of air and fuel vapor. The heat from the running engine vaporizes the liquid fuel droplets as soon as they leave the carb. Pouring any type of liquid into a cold engine can hydro lock it. Air and fuel vapor can be compressed liquid can not. Hydro locking the engine can shear your flywheel key or worse. Cause internal engine damage.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not an X series guy, I have a 455. But just a thought, have you checked the engine oil level? I believe my parents old 445 had a low oil shutoff switch.
it does not leak any oil-and hasn't used a drop in the 3 yrs i have owned it. but i will pull the stick-just to double check it. thanks for replying-oh-all good answers to a non-running machine.:good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Instead of pouring fuel down the carb use some kind of flammable carb cleaner or starting fluid SPRAY. Just give it a good shot then try to start the engine. If your no start problem is fuel related it should run momentarily. Sometimes you can keep it running by giving it repeated shots. Back in my tech days we had a full size Dodge van that would just cut out randomly from no fuel. We drove it back to the shop by doing this. My coworker drove while I sat in the passenger seat. I was feeding the throttle body with a can of carb cleaner. We had the engine cover and air cleaner removed.

This is the reason you should use spray instead of pouring in liquid gas. Engines run on a mixture of air and fuel vapor. The heat from the running engine vaporizes the liquid fuel droplets as soon as they leave the carb. Pouring any type of liquid into a cold engine can hydro lock it. Air and fuel vapor can be compressed liquid can not. Hydro locking the engine can shear your flywheel key or worse. Cause internal engine damage.

Good luck
yeah-well yesterday-:hide: i dumped just a hair down-what i thought was the throat of the carb. to only discover later it wasn't . jeez-i felt so stupid. i'm gonna hunt up my crack can today-and try that.

it didn't back fire-at all-before it just up and shut-off-was mowing-and it just up and stopped running-and i coasted to a stop.
 

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it does not leak any oil-and hasn't used a drop in the 3 yrs i have owned it. but i will pull the stick-just to double check it. thanks for replying-oh-all good answers to a non-running machine.:good2:
If you have a low oil shutoff switch as Swamp_Fox said, it could be bad. :dunno:
 

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The way which the issue with the Oil level switch, which activates the low oil light was handled in this forum is one of the reasons why I like the GTT group. A reasonable question was asked, and a statement of conditional application made by xcopterdoc of ""No low oil or low oil pressure shutoff on any L&G tractor by Deere that I am aware of."" (that I am aware of being the conditional statement)

Then Gbnpp05 posted a screen shot which lists a switch related to the oil system on the subject tractor and a part number.

Xcopterdoc points out that this is the low oil warning light sending unit / switch which illuminates the dash light and does not serve as a "shut off switch" like on many of the Honda generators and Honda small gas engines.

Everybody learns something and everyone is very respectful of the others posted thoughts, suggestions and comments. This is precisely how it should be, but if any of you have spent time on other forums, Holy Cow, most are not operated with the respect and appreciation of questions, comments, dissenting viewpoints or others opinions. I have seen so many other forums turn into a bully pulpit over even little issues such as this but on GTT, the tone of comments and responses is positive and helps everyone in the end.

GTT truly has a great group of participants.

Last night I was on a couple of other forums, one for racing and the other for automotive related issues. Seeing how so many of those on the sites I visited last night shred one another and just the vulgarity and rudeness of the posts and comments is a major turn off for someone seeking information and not looking to get into a blood letting for the sake of sport. It makes me really appreciate GTT even more.

Now we just have to get Big Jim's tractor running.......:unknown:

I also agree with the comments made by H. D. Dealer Dude about dumping liquid gas into any engine to start them. It's easy to "pour in a little" but when you see how little fuel is actually burned in the engines cycles, it is very easy to overload the engine with liquid fuel and could hydraulic the engine as H.D. Dealer Dude pointed out. I have seen this happen with small engines and the damage can be serious. I agree with using a spray to attempt to start the engine and it takes very little spray. If it doesn't fire when you have introduced ether or whatever the spray is, it's more than a fuel problem.

I would also add for Big Jim that I suggest replacing the fuses if you don't have a means to actually test them as I have seen the blade style fuses fail and not in the center connection link where they are designed to "break" as a safety feature. When it comes to fuses, when in any doubt, replace them. There are several fuse kits which come with a tester that can be used for a variety of fuse sizes.

Here is one I use and like https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-NO-44-Blade-Tester-Puller/dp/B000BXKYW0

Plus it gives you the opportunity to clean out the fuses connection and to spray them with something to clean them but not make them susceptible to dirt sticking, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
:yahoo:WELL I GOT IT TO FIRE ON CRACK:laugh: yelp the starting ether worked-ran for a few seconds. at least i know it will fire off. so now it's either -electrical-and i do believe it's that little fuel shut off-as i have fuel past the filter. unless it's not getting juice to work correctly.
sulley bear-i checked my fuses-only by my eye's. didn't say test them. don't have one of them testers-but i am going to pick up some new fuses-while in town. their is a little green light by the key module--:dunno:i can not seem to fine in the tech manual-what that is suppose to do. will read some more on that.

installed the left tire and rolled it outside for some cleaning on the tank. my what a mess. cleaning the top of gas tank .jpg CHARLEY BOY HELPING ME-HA!.jpg and my helper is never far away. it cleaned very good. used Purple Power-used a small scrub brush-and then some old rags along with a bucket of clean water. didn't splash any water over top of it, just from the rags. i was itching to power wash it-but didn't for fear of messing with the wires. thanks to everyone for the help.

if it is not a bad fuse-then i'm gonna haul it over to the jd dealer and let them determine if it's that fuel shut off-no way i feel comfortable in tearing it down to change it.
 

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Big Jim 55,

Just some further thoughts: If it fires when primed, you have a fuel delivery issue and not an ignition related problem. Have you been using fuel with ethanol in it? Most pump gas nowadays has about 15% ethanol added, but it tends to play havoc in small engines without fuel injection and even a few with it. The ethanol attracts moisture and forms a jelly-like substance that tends to clog carburetors. Condensation in the fuel tank is worst in the months of varying temperatures (warmer days, cool nights) and high humidity, so you may be seeing this about now. Keeping the fuel tank full and leaving very little air space helps a bit...but the solution to all the ethanol jelly-like blockages is to use gas that does not have it added.

I suspect a good carburetor cleaning and inspection of all the jets would be in order. Remind me if the x475 has injection -- my x495 was a diesel so I never paid much attention to the gas-fueled models in that model line...

Chuck
 
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