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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, been reading for a while, first post. Great forum.

I have an X495 that the PTO has simply stopped engaging. It had stopped engaging while I was mowing from time to time, until finally it stopped and would not start back. I've begun trying to locate the problem but am coming up short. The red led on the ignition module board does not light up.

Seat switch tested, working properly
Brake switch tested, working properly
All relays tested, working properly
I cannot see any frayed wires so far
No voltage to PTO solenoid

I would like to check the voltage going to the PTO relay (K6 I think). Does anyone which color wires should be receiving 12V with the PTO switch off and also with it on?

Also, I cleaned all the contacts I could find. When I put it all back together I turned the switch on and the red led came on, and I was getting voltage to the PTO solenoid. I thought I had solved it. I got on the mower, cranked it up, then it wouldn't come on again. Haven't seen it turn on since.

I'm hoping by sharing my experience users in the future don't have the same frustration as I have had.
 

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Mine did the same thing on my X585. Same tractor but gas and 4wd.

I didn't see it on your list of things that you checked, I started with the PTO switch but no change. It turned out to be the switch that is on the forward/reverse pedals under the floor board. I hated the RIO cut out so I wasn't going to pay $40 to replace that switch that I can't stand. It was motivation to just bypass it.

The reason the PTO wouldn't kick in was because the tractor thought I was backing up. Even though I wasn't. It is a quick test. There are 4 wires to that switch. There is a Normally Closed side and Normally Open side. The way it works is when the plunger isn't pressed down the Normally Closed side completes the circuit for the PTO safety switch allowing the PTO to be turned on. If you press down on the reverse pedal it opens this side of the switch and that cuts out the PTO unless you are lifting up on the PTO Switch.

The other side which is Normally Open is used for the backup lights. When you press on the reverse pedal it completes the circuit for the backup lights and they will come on if the light switch is in that middle position.

This was my issue and something to check if you haven't already. A quick test with an Ohm Meter will tell you if it is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Chuck and semm! Great diagram, that will definitely help me track down some components. Semm, I haven't thought about looking at the reverse switch. I'll do that next. And the diagram Chuck posted should help me find it. Thanks both! I'll update afterwards.
 

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Once you have marked that backup switch off the list if you still have an issue I can look in my manual. It is for the gas versions not the diesel but I suspect you have the same K92 transaxle and PTO clutch. I seem to remember a resistance test or something for the clutch. Just disconnect it and get an ohm reading between the two pins. That was one of the first things I checked but it was in the range that they quoted so I moved on. I just don't remember what the range is off the top of my head but can look it up if you still need help. I think it was about 5 - 6 years ago that my switch failed and I was messing with it.

Like I said I went through all the same hoops you did, seat switch, brake switch, relays , PTO Clutch Ohm reading and finally the backup switch. If something were to fail that was the one thing I was happiest about because it forced me to finally got around to bypassing it.

The switch is mounted to the frame (might be inside of the frame rail, in fact the more I think about it I think it is). Just look under the floor boards where the forward reverse pedals are. Mower deck will probably have to come off or at least pulled out far enough to get to it.
 

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Sennister,

The first page of the document excerpt I posted above shows the specification of the PTO resistance to be nominally 8 to 10 ohms.

Chuck
 

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Sennister,

The first page of the document excerpt I posted above shows the specification of the PTO resistance to be nominally 8 to 10 ohms.

Chuck
Ok, I didn't look at the doc you posted. Saves me from having to look it up for him. Like I said I was going from memory on what I tested when I had the same issue many years ago and resistance was one thing I looked at. I think it was one of the first things because it was an easy test. Still a good chance it is the backup switch as he hasn't checked that yet to rule it out. That is what it was for me. It is under the machine where it is exposed to lots of dirt and slop.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, after a week of obsessing about this, you guys have fixed my problem in 15 minutes. Unreal. I removed my deck and tested the backup switch. It checked out ok, however, like most other connections, it was full of crud. I cleaned it out and put it back together. When I turned the key on, the red PTO led still would't come on. I tapped the ignition module lightly and it came on! However, when I started the engine it went back off again, grrr. After tapping around on that ignition module a little longer to see if I could locate the problem, I felt a wire was loose on one of the harnesses. I took it off, pushed the wires in harder, and replaced. Everything seems to be working now. PTO engaged each time I pulled the the switch!

So, I think it was two things. I think the backup switch was not getting a good connection due to dirt, and I had a loose connection on that module. This afternoon I'll put the deck back on and make sure all is well. And make sure those wires are secure in the harness.

Also, I'm going to post a few beginner things in case someone with limited knowledge like myself is having trouble.

Thank you gentlemen. I wish you both the best.
 

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Glad it appears you have it sorted out.

That is the great thing about forums like these. The collective knowledge many times is better than dealer support. Not always a replacement but there is a lot of times where you are not the only one to have this issue. A quick post can help point out some areas you might have overlooked.

The internet in general is great for this. I have fixed all kinds of things and helped others with stuff like this from past experience here and in other forums like this.
 

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Glad you got it sorted -- and thanks so much for posting back the final resolution, as that may be just what helps the next reader address their own issue. The forum community here is a great collection of experience and knowledge and ready to help with suggestions on any question you may have.

Chuck
 

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I tapped the ignition module lightly and it came on! However, when I started the engine it went back off again, grrr. After tapping around on that ignition module a little longer to see if I could locate the problem, I felt a wire was loose on one of the harnesses. I took it off, pushed the wires in harder, and replaced. Everything seems to be working now. PTO engaged each time I pulled the the switch! . . . . .
Aha. Percussive maintenance wins again! :thumbup1gif: :lol:

Glad you got it sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just tested it again and everything looks, and works, as it should. I'd like to state a few simple things that I didn't know until I started this journey for those in the same boat.

X485, X495, Tuff Torq 92. Not sure if this applies to other models.

PTO won't start, won't engage.

The PTO is short for Power Take Off. The PTO connects to the deck by the PTO shaft. When engaged, the PTO spins, which spins the PTO shaft, which drives your deck pulleys, spinning your blades.

The PTO switch, also called PTO knob, is what you pull to engage the PTO. This is easily replaced, but should be tested with a multimeter before sending the money to replace.

There are two 15 amp fuses located in the ignition module. This is located behind the screen on the right side of the vehicle.

Below this module is a relay for the PTO. It is the K6 relay. There are 3 relays here. They are little black boxes with 4 or 5 wires attached. K6 is the one closest to the engine.

Relays can be safely tested using a 12v battery (kids 12v car, cordless drill, etc.) and a wire. A multimeter will confirm electricity can flow from terminal to terminal (continuity). YouTube a video on how to test these. It's easy, and safe, but an explanation is better found on YouTube than here.

The brake switch is located under the floor pan on the LEFT side. If this is sticking it could cause the PTO to stop. Switched will need to be checked for continuity with a multimeter.

The reverse pedal switch is located on the inside of the frame on the RIGHT side. Same problem if it's sticking or failed.

The PTO solenoid is located in the back, top of the transmission. Two wires supply power and ground to it. This can safely be checked by unplugging the solenoid and hooking it up to a 12v battery, just like checking a relay. If you hear a click clack, it's working. Nothing else will turn on.

Clean your terminals! If in doubt, find a video on YouTube how to remove a wire from a wire harness. It's fairly easy. You'll need a tiny flathead screwdriver.


Please feel free to add anything I didn't mention.

And thank you all again!
 

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Glad your PTO problem is resolved. Just FYI, GTT has a built in feature which provides descriptions and details for commonly used tractor names like PTO, FEL, etc. Just point the cursor at the word and it will show a pop up which describes in detail what the abbreviation stands for. Its very helpful for new users...........When you see words with the small double dot lines under them, these are included in this extra directory.

Several times over the years when electrical issues arise on these machines, I always begin by pulling the electrical connectors apart on the impacted parts and clean them and make sure the wires for each portion of the plugs have the wires positioned correctly. The vibration on these machines plus the tough operating environments tend to cause the connections to be culprits and usually very easily resolved. Either dirt, corrosion or wires pulled back slightly out of the connectors can often resolve the electrical issue and there is no cost for parts to make these repairs.

I have lost count of the number of "easy" fixes with simply cleaning connections and using small needle nose pliers and either pulling the connector pins fully back into the plugs of pushing them into the plugs (depending upon the male and or female side of the connection).

You can spend a lot of time chasing these electrical gremlins and often, they are basic issues which need attention and are very easy to resolve.

Thanks for posting your details and follow up. It makes these threads very helpful for future research by others......
 

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I've seen connector problems on high and low dollar machines, but the low dollar ones are where I've found loose connectors that caused the problems the most.

I helped a friend with a Craftsman lawn mower. It would not crank. It had switches for the brake pedal and PTO linkage (lever that tightened the mower belt) in series. We would get power through the first switch, then nothing through the second switch. Then we would not get power through the first switch. It turned out to be loose connectors in the female terminals of the wiring harness. Multiple loose connectors had to be removed from the connector body/housing, cleaned and squeezed with pliers to tighten the connection. Then it would crank and run.
 
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