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Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks my 12 volt plug in socket has no power coming to it and also my fuel gauge is not working. Any ideas as to why? Thanks
 

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There is a wiring harness that goes to the back of the machine. The wiring harness will connect to the rear lights, fuel sending unit/pump and the 12v socket.

What I would do is pull the rear fender and see what is going on back there. I don't think the fuel sending unit wire is unplugged if the machine runs because those same wires power the fuel pump. With no fuel pump, it won't run.

The fenders come off pretty easy. You have the 4 bolts that mount the seat to the tractor. Pull those. Then on the inside of the wheel well where the fender connects to the foot rest you will find 2 bolts on each side. The orange cap of the 4wd shift lever will pop off and a nut is in there to pull the handle off. The final bolt is the only one a little tricky. Up under the fender in the wheel well there is a bolt that hold a bracket that is "L" it is on the side of the fender where the fuel fill neck is. I normally pull it with a ratchet with a universal joint on a 6" or so extension. You might want to pull the bulbs out of the socket, take off the gas cap and the fender will lift up and off from the back.

Here are a few pics of mine when I was doing spring cleaning.

The brass colored round circle is the top of the fuel pump/sending unit. You can see the wires going to that. The wires hanging out the back of the tractor I think are the ones that go to the 12V socket. It has been a while.





Once under there look for any place that the harness might have a pinched wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’ve done all that already and even used a multimeter to check wires out. Wondering if there is a fuse somewhere that controls both that I have not discovered. Found the two (15) amp and one (10) amp fuse and they are fine.
 

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If I recall all the fuses are on the right side of the steering column. If you look at the second photo above you will see where there are a bunch of wires. Since you said you checked a couple fuses might not be that.

You mentioned using a multimeter to check the wires out. I assume the wires to the 12V were dead right? You didn't say so I am just assuming as that is why you are asking for additional ideas but you know what happens when you assume. For all I know the machine is new to you and you don't know that the rocker switch right next to the 12V socket is the switch to power it. You know that right?

Looking at the wiring schematic for the X585 there 12V Socket it is pretty straight forward. There is the wire coming off the battery to the starter. Then it shows a fuseable linke which appear to be a black wire. From there it goes to a 20A fuse (F1). From there it is a straight shot to the switch next to the 12V socket. Then to ground. So, find that 20A fuse and if you have power there then it is the fuse or the switch. Looking at the diagram it is located in the column area where the other electrical stuff is. It may be a separate fuse though not on a board.

As for the fuel gauge.

When you say the fuel gauge doesn't work, what is it doing? Just not reading the right level, stuck in one spot, or pegging out? Does it do it all the time or only during certain points in time for instance when the PTO is on or lights on? The reason I ask is there are some known issues with the instrument clusters with X585 machines. In my case it started out where everything was fine if the machine was running but if I engaged the PTO sometimes the temp gauge would peg out. Later on if the lights were on the fuel gauge would also peg out. This issue is most likely a bad ground in the cluster. The official fix is to replace the cluster and bond the ground connection. I fixed my cluster. Those pics above where from a thread that I did on refreshing my X585.

Refreshing a X585

Here is where I got into the cluster.

Refreshing a X585 - Page 3

The issue is the solder joints crack from most likely vibration and then the cluster doesn't have a good ground. The circuit then looks for ground where it can and goofy things start happening. I don't think this is related to the 12V socket though. If the gauge just isn't working, it is possible that the float or sending unit is bad in the tank. Going back to the earlier photo, you could pull your fuel pump and ohm the float wires while moving the float up and down to see if the sending unit is working or maybe the float sprung a leak. While you are in there, replace the short 2" fuel line that goes from the fuel pump up to the exit on fuel assembly. That is another known issue with these machines and I posted about my surging issue here.

Performance issues with x585 - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

In this thread I have info on when I pulled my fuel pump to fix the line that popped off. If you dig into the fuel tank it is a cheap bit of preventative maint.
 

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I just was out moving some dirt with my X585 and took a look for that 20A F1 Fuse for the 12V Socket. I am pretty sure it was the one that is hanging out of the wiring harness. Pull the left side (as you sit on the machine) cover. The one you pull to access the radiator screen. There was a fuse holder there with a 20A fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the help first of all. I really appreciate it. I’ve owned this tractor since new. 04. It’s been a great tractor. I also have his brother the x475. Bought that new as well. I have changed out the sending unit on the x475 already so I am familiar with that part. I tried to get my 25 gallon sprayer going the other day is when I discovered the 12v port not working. The fuel gauge went out last year. It is bottomed out on empty. No movement. Been thinking it’s a sending unit also. I am gonna pull it tomorrow and have a look into things. As far as this 12v socket goes, the thing that gets me is I have power to my back lights which is on the same harness. I plugged in the sprayer in my x475 and no problem. That’s why I was wondering if there was another fuse somewhere I’m missing. I have found 3 on the machine is all. I’m about ready to take it into Deere and have them take a look. Both tractors only have 450-480 hrs. Getting a little frustrated
 

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I took the dog out for a walk to the back yard and took a quick shot of mine. I don't have power in that building right now because of the construction but you can make out the 20A yellow fuse that I suspect is the one you are looking for.



This is from the service manual showing the location of the F1 20A fuse.



There really isn't much to the circuit for the 12V socket so it is either this fuse or the fuseable link. Is the fuse missing?
 

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Looking at your photo again you have 3 connectors in there the one on the left is the only one that appears to have two slots. What color wires are there. They look blue and red on mine that is that 20A fuse. Is that a fuse holder that is missing a 20A fuse? If so that might be the issue.

Edit: Just looked at the schematic again and it shows the following.

The wire from the starter is black to a fuseable link and then it turns red going into the fuse holder (F1). Going out of the fuse holder (F1) to the 12V socket it is blue. So that photo above has to be F1. Look at the connector on the left in your photo and see if there are is a red and a blue wire. You can use your multimeter to see if you have 12V on the red side to test the fusable link. If so put a 20A fuse in there and your socket should be good.
 

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Going back to your other issue with the fuel sending unit. If you are up for pulling it. Try and manipulate the float while getting an Ohm reading from your multimeter to see if the resistance changes.

The fuel sending unit should be the black/white wire and then the ground which is black. The Pink/Black wire powers the fuel pump.

As far as a cluster issue, it is possible but I have seen gauges peg out not go to 0. If it reads 0 then I would check the sending unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That was the issue. No fuse in that holder. I put a 20 amp fuse in it and bingo. It looked like another one of those useless plug ins to me. Now I’m try to figure out what gremlin took that out. Lol. Glad you could help me out with that one. Again very much appreciated. Next will be the fuel gauge issue.
 

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That was the issue. No fuse in that holder. I put a 20 amp fuse in it and bingo. It looked like another one of those useless plug ins to me. Now I’m try to figure out what gremlin took that out. Lol. Glad you could help me out with that one. Again very much appreciated. Next will be the fuel gauge issue.
Sweet!! One down, one to go. Wonder where that fuse went... :dunno:

I had a feeling they were separate issues.

I would pull the sending unit, flip your multimeter to ohms (looks like a horseshoe on some meters). I don't know what resistance range should be normal but as you manually raise and lower the float the number should be changing.

I can look and see what the TM says and reply again.
 

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Here is what it says in the TM. As I mentioned it is a variable resistor. From the TM you should be looking for a reading of 5 to 95 ohms. Most likely if it is shot, as you move the float the reading will not change. It may even show OL or Open Loop. Of course every meter reads this different.

Function - Fuel Gauge:
Inform the operator of the fuel level in the fuel tank.

Theory of Operation - Fuel Gauge:
The fuel level in the fuel tank is measured by the B2 fuel
gauge sensor. The sensor is a variable resistor. The
resistance is set by movement of a mechanical linkage
connected to a float in the fuel tank. The 5 to 95 ohm
variable resistance creates a variable voltage difference
across the P2 fuel gauge. The voltage difference ranges
from approximately 5.72 VDC (fuel tank FULL) to
approximately 0.87 VDC (fuel tank EMPTY). The fuel
gauge is part of the instrument panel.
 

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My X585 (2002 model year) fuel sensor died last season, too. First it would just read crazy - periodically below empty or above full and then it just stopped all together. After reading others who had the same problem and talking to my local JD guy, everything pointed to the sensor. Replaced it and the pump (as it seems they no longer sell the parts individually) and all is good now. Not cheap given you have to buy the pump, too, now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got what Deere calls a hanger coming in two days from a dealer close by. Hanger meaning sensor on my sending unit is bad. He said $30 probably not including the governor. Hopefully this part will solve my problem. Stand by
 

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I had a dead/flaky temperature gauge on my x495 (same instrument cluster I think) and fixed it by cleaning up contacts inside the panel assembly.

Here's the back side of the actual gauge (the fuel gauge is identical). The three pins are +12, Gnd, and signal from sending unit. Sorry I don't recall which pin is which.
IMG_20190404_204910.jpg

And here's what mates to it:
IMG_20190404_204627.jpg

The sending unit is just a variable resister, roughly 6-200 ohms. If you're handy with electrons and related things you can create a "fake" input to see if it's the instrument.

Here's the pin-out on the instrument cluster for my X495. Again I think it's the same but not 100% sure.
Inst_Pins.JPG
That's oriented same as looking at the white connector on the left side of the instrument cluster.
 

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Oh one more thing. If you do clean these contacts up, or the ones in the harness connector (which I recommend), put some conductive compound on them.

Don't use dielectric grease on contacts, ever. It has it's uses but this is NOT one of them.
 
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