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Good Morning all. Happy recipient of a new to me x585 with 45 loader, rear PTO and 3pt, 62c deck with a hair over 500hrs.

I've been holding out for an x585 for the 4wd and no AWS and so far very happy with the tractor. Did a couple of modifications yesterday (piranha toothbar, ken's hooks, custom drawbar, shut off valve).

I can't for the life of me get the mower arms to move. The 3pt arms go up and down, the loader buckets moves and curls. I've removed the deck and reinstalled (pain if the mower arms dont move). But can't get it to move at all. Am i missing a linkage or hydraulic cylinder?

Thanks,
Sam
 

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Look under the machine where the hydraulic lines connect by your right foot. There should be a knob which is the lockout. You turn this so it locks the deck in the up position or it will go down when you dump the bucket on the FEL. I can never remember which way is which so try it one way thrn again the other way. However this also locks out the 3pt arms since they work on the same hydo cylinder. I mentioned that first step just to verify and so you know it is there and how it works. If that is fine then double check your height of cut knob. Maybe that is cranked all the way up. Using the curl function for the FEL it should raise the deck and 3pt arms up all the way. Then crank down the height of cut knob to the lowest setting and see if it goes down. If not it is possible you may need to pull the fenders and see what is going on under the bodywork.
 

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good info above,
the top scv lever will raise and lower the arms if the lockout valve is not closed.
as mentioned, see if the arms will go up at all, then if the mower height dial is
set up high try to turn it down to 1 for installing the deck.
sometimes things need a little wiggling around to get the arms to drop
 

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Now that I am on a computer I would also mention that with mine if I don't have the mower deck on the arms will not always want to actually drop. They need some weight like a mower deck to help pull them down. I know you mentioned you managed to put the deck on with the arms in the up position (that doesn't sound fun). I am not sure if the deck is still on the machine though to have that weight there as you try different things.

Also with both my machines (and possibly all John Deere machines) the deck needs to be in the up position to adjust the height of cut knob. You can't have the deck down and adjust it even if going to a lower setting.

Since the X585 doesn't have a park position for the deck, I can see where someone might have wanted to use the FEL and maybe a 3pt hitch attachment while having the mower deck on. In that case the only way you can keep the mower deck up is by raising it and cranking the height of cut knob all the way to the highest setting. I can see myself doing something like this when spreading dirt. If it is a small job I may not want to pull off my mower deck because it is too much of a hassle. I also want to use the 3pt and the FEL at the same time. I scoop up dirt from my dirt pile with the FEL. Haul it to where I am going to use it and dump it. Then use the box grader on the 3pt to smooth things out.

Also another tip since you are new to the X585. Lets say you want to lock out just the 3pt hitch and not the mower deck. I am trying to think of a reason... Lets say you have the mower deck on and a 3pt weed sprayer or something like that. If you look at the back of the machine there is what looks like a threaded rod that has a pin through it. There is no label or information on what this does. Again, I don't mess with it enough to remember which way to turn it, but this is the limiter for how far your 3pt hitch drops. So you can raise your 3pt hitch and mower deck since it is on the same cylinder. Then you crank on this threaded rod (the pin is the handle) for what seems like forever and you can adjust the lower limit so it is all the way up. Again you have to play with this a bit to see which way you have to turn it. Once the lower limit is cranked all the way up then the 3pt hitch won't go down anymore with the dump of the FEL or lower the mower deck lever. I know this is outside of what you are looking for but a good thing to keep in mind because you might be in a situation where you want that. Maybe you have ballast on the 3pt hitch and wanted to mow. Not sure why you want that much weight and it sucks mowing with the FEL getting in the way as you go around trees and such. So the sprayer is a better scenario where it might come up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions guys.

I installed the lockout valve this weekend. So I know that’s not the issue. I didn’t have one before and the mower arms still didn’t move.

The mower adjustment knob won’t budge. I will try to fully cycle the bucket curl and see if it moves.

Is there any chance that the arms could bind on something? Is there any linkage that I should be feeling for? My mower arms don’t seem to be connected to anything but the frame and the mower adjustment limiters.

Thanks
Sam
 

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Thanks for all the helpful suggestions guys.

I installed the lockout valve this weekend. So I know that’s not the issue. I didn’t have one before and the mower arms still didn’t move.

The mower adjustment knob won’t budge. I will try to fully cycle the bucket curl and see if it moves.

Is there any chance that the arms could bind on something? Is there any linkage that I should be feeling for? My mower arms don’t seem to be connected to anything but the frame and the mower adjustment limiters.

Thanks
Sam
The arms shouldn't bind on anything. The fact that you say the height of cut knob won't turn raises a flag for me. As I mentioned the knob won't move unless you raise the deck. What is the height of cut set at? That knob turns a wheel with notches along the side. It kind of looks like a circular saw blade. When the deck is lowered to a height setting it locks that wheel as it acts like a stop. This is why you have to lift the deck off the flat spots on the wheel to turn it. It is possible it is bound up but it is going to be hard to get to it short of pulling the fenders. That sounds like a scarier job than it really is. I have pulled mine several times.

Here is my spring cleaning a while back.



If you look close at this photo you can just make out the wheel I am talking about. Between the frame rails, ahead of the fuel tank and behind the operator station (steering wheel) you can see what looks like a round disk with flat spots. It is a dark grey color.



Heck, here is the same photo zoomed in on the part I am talking about. As you can see it is pretty high in the frame rails and easier to access it from the top. From the bottom the driveshaft and a bunch of other stuff is going to be in the way. Those are the stops to adjust the HOC. The shaft passing through the wheel is where the knob is.

If you want to remove the fenders to try and work on it from the top I can write up a quick set of directions off the top of my head. The only part that was real tricky was the hook on the fuel tank which is under the left fender.



You are right that the mower arms connect on the forward part to the frame and then the back connection is those gold colored mower adjustments. That sound right. That is the only thing at the back half of the deck and then the loop part that hooks the front of the deck and connects to the front of the tractor frame.
 

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Good Morning all. Happy recipient of a new to me x585 with 45 loader, rear PTO and 3pt, 62c deck with a hair over 500hrs.

I've been holding out for an x585 for the 4wd and no AWS and so far very happy with the tractor. Did a couple of modifications yesterday (piranha toothbar, ken's hooks, custom drawbar, shut off valve).

I can't for the life of me get the mower arms to move. The 3pt arms go up and down, the loader buckets moves and curls. I've removed the deck and reinstalled (pain if the mower arms dont move). But can't get it to move at all. Am i missing a linkage or hydraulic cylinder?

Thanks,
Sam
:ttiwwp:
They're handy tractors. Here's mine.
 

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:ttiwwp:
They're handy tractors. Here's mine.
Hmm. I'll bet my X585 is mad at me now for posting photo of it all naked...

Here are some of it better dressed.

You can see all the dirt that gets on the mower deck when doing this work which is why I don't like leaving it on. In this case I had to use that method where I raised the 3pt and mower deck then I set the Height of Cut all the way up to keep the mower deck up as much as possible so I could still use the curl function on the loader to raise and lower the box blade. That is also why the bucket is at an odd angle but this actually works well for spreading dirt. At that position you can lower the FEL and put it in float and it does a good job. Use the box blade for moving areas around. The box blade also work well for ballast with the FEL but I also have a heavy hitch with suitcase weights and filled my rear tires with winter blend washer fluid.



Also why the drive over deck is nice on the newer X7xx. It is so much easier to drop the deck when doing this work.



I let it go play in the snow.





I won't mess around with bag of mulch. I get it by the yard. So much faster and cheaper.





The at the end of the work day it is nice to sit back and enjoy a beer.



EDIT: The X585 is a nice size machine. Mine has close to 1200 hrs on it now but now that I don't mow with it the hours are going up and much slower rate now. If there is anything I don't like about the machine it would be the fact that there is no independent control for the 3pt hitch. There are people that have installed a joystick in the cup holder and made them into H3 or even H4 machines. I have considered this. It isn't that hard but then I think about what my longer term plans are. I can see myself running it for another 2-3 years when the Ztrak is paid off and trading it off for a bigger whatever they have at that time. Realistically I would say a 1 Series though I drool over those 3 Series with factory cab. For the type of use I would have, a 1 Series with the cab option would be more than what I need and gets me that independent control over the 3pt. My concern is if I did the H3 conversion it is going to be harder to trade in. A dealer isn't going to want to try and explain what is going on there and it will take time to sell private party on Craigslist. I would guess I will be at around 1500 hrs on an 18 year old machine that is heavily modified.
 

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Getting back on topic.

I was thinking about this. I know you mentioned it is new to you. I wonder if the previous owner is like me and retired the machine from mowing duties. Like I said, without weight on the arms they don't always drop down even back when I was using a mower deck. Since I bought my ZTrak two years ago I haven't put a mower deck on mine. It is a dedicated machine for FEL work and snow duties this time of year.
If they haven't used the mower deck in a while it might explain the stuck arms.

As I said removing the fenders and foot rests isn't that hard and from the earlier pics it is probably easier to access from the top to clean things out. I would say it is about 14 nuts and bolts to pull that stuff. I have done it a few times so I could do it in maybe 10 minutes and half a beer. Taking your time the first time it might take 15-20 and a full can or bottle.
 

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If you do end up removing the fenders this is the part that I struggled with the most the first time. Once I got it off once I knew how it worked and it wasn't a problem. Normally going to the Parts diagram will help with disassembly. The problem with the parts diagram in this case is the bolts are spread across several of the diagrams and some are not quite right. This hook part that I struggled with is a good example. If you look at the parts diagram for the fenders they really don't show much that would clue you in to this. Here is the part in question. If you look at the diagram for the fuel tank in the lower corner of the diagram is this.



The problem with the diagram is the bolt appears to go down into nothing. Well possibly is a support hook to hold the fuel tank down to the frame? It isn't clear. The hook is actually oriented right but the bolt really pointed up not down. It is pointed up because it is the bolt that also secures the left grab handle (as you sit on the machine) to the rear fender. It is an M8 bolt and everything you will need is metric. If you want to pull this with the rear wheel on you can. You will need a universal joint on a small should be 13mm socket. Connect that to an extension. I use probably a 6" or 8". I am 90% sure this is the rear mounting point for that handle next to the filler neck for the gas cap. It is one of those things you have to do blindly if the wheel is on but if you reach up there you can feel the hook and bolt.

Everything else is pretty straight forward. Move the seat all the way forward and there are two small bolts in the slide rails take out the back two, the slide the seat all the way back and remove the front two. Disconnect the seat safety switch wire and the seat and suspension assembly comes off. Go to the 4wd lever and the orange cap is just press fitted in. You can pull that off and there is a nut under there. Take the nut off and the black plastic handle will pull off. Then go to where the fenders meet the foot rests you will see two bolts on each side. Take those out. Take off the gas cap and the rear fender is free. Be cautious because your brake and backup lights are still hooked up. You can either take the bulbs out leaving the wiring harness dangle or gently lift it up and under the fender if you trace the wires you will see a disconnect. Now the fender is free to be removed. It will lift up from the back as the front edge is slipped under the footrests. I would then put the gas cap back on.

For the foot rests you have to disconnect the forward/reverse pedals. Look under the foot rests each one is two bolts. Take the bolts off and they pull right out. While you are on that side there is a bolt under the rubber foot rests just down from the forward edge. I don't remember if this is a carriage bolt so you can just take a nut off from the bottom or if you need to pull the rubber foot pads back. They just clip in so it isn't hard to pull them back if you need to. Then go to the other side where the diff lock is. There is a small set screw holding this on. Take that off then repeat what you did on the other side for that bolt under the rubber mat. It is the same on each side. The knob for the height of cut is just a press fit so pull that off and I think that is everything. The foot rest should come out. Now you can get at that wheel I was showing you earlier and the other linkage. If you need to start the machine. Remember to set the parking brake. Also remember you don't have the circuit on the seat completed so unless you jumper that seat connector you can't move the machine. It will shutdown as soon as the brake is removed. If you want to roll it there is a lever on the inside of the right rear wheel that you have to push down first then you can roll it around. Maybe you want to roll it outside to hose everything off. It is likely to be very dirty under there. Most people don't strip down their tractors every year to two for a deep cleaning like I tend to do.
 

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When I was installing the Front PTO kit on my X495, the kit came with this latch setup to lock the draft arms in the up position to prevent them from lowering onto the pto shaft. Might you have that latch on your tractor? Latch.png
 

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When I was installing the Front PTO kit on my X495, the kit came with this latch setup to lock the draft arms in the up position to prevent them from lowering onto the pto shaft. Might you have that latch on your tractor? View attachment 574217
That is interesting. I don't have anything like that on my X585. I did mention that mine is a low serial number when they first came out in 2002. They also have made changes over the years for instance I know that lockout valve was standard on early model X585 but then they dropped it but it might have been one of those bonuses they tossed in for those that bought the Special Edition. Also you have an 05 so it is possible they got a lot of complaints from early owners about bent shafts and some kit like this was created if you bought a snow blower or broom.

I should mention that my father-in-law originally bought our X585 when it was new and when we bought the house from them it was included in the deal since they didn't need it anymore. He did mention to me once that he bent that mid PTO Shaft that you are talking about which is used for running a broom or snowblower. I guess I thought he said something about leaving it on but it isn't like you could put the mower deck on at the same time as having that shaft in there as there would be no place to hook up the mower's PTO. So I never really understood this. Looking at how the draft arms move I don't think they would hit the PTO Shaft but I don't know. I would normally take them off with the mower deck come winter because I wanted the ground clearance. Also one year I didn't remove them and lost one of the mounting pins as the cotter pin fell out plowing or something. I definitely run that SCV when using the snow blower because that is my chute control and I have never had any interference so maybe it isn't an issue on the X585. But that brings up the question about what my father-in-law was talking about that day he mentioned having to buy a new driveshaft for the front PTO. I only put it on when I have the blower on and I normally forget about turning that lockout so my rockshaft should be going up and down with my angle function on the blade (though normally the PTO Midshaft isn't installed with the blade) or chute control on the blower.

I forget where the OP is from (North Carolina maybe) I think it was a warmer climate and I don't recall seeing a blower in his list so maybe he doesn't have the front PTO?
 

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That is interesting. I don't have anything like that on my X585. I did mention that mine is a low serial number when they first came out in 2002. They also have made changes over the years for instance I know that lockout valve was standard on early model X585 but then they dropped it but it might have been one of those bonuses they tossed in for those that bought the Special Edition. Also you have an 05 so it is possible they got a lot of complaints from early owners about bent shafts and some kit like this was created if you bought a snow blower or broom.

I should mention that my father-in-law originally bought our X585 when it was new and when we bought the house from them it was included in the deal since they didn't need it anymore. He did mention to me once that he bent that mid PTO Shaft that you are talking about which is used for running a broom or snowblower. I guess I thought he said something about leaving it on but it isn't like you could put the mower deck on at the same time as having that shaft in there as there would be no place to hook up the mower's PTO. So I never really understood this. Looking at how the draft arms move I don't think they would hit the PTO Shaft but I don't know. I would normally take them off with the mower deck come winter because I wanted the ground clearance. Also one year I didn't remove them and lost one of the mounting pins as the cotter pin fell out plowing or something. I definitely run that SCV when using the snow blower because that is my chute control and I have never had any interference so maybe it isn't an issue on the X585. But that brings up the question about what my father-in-law was talking about that day he mentioned having to buy a new driveshaft for the front PTO. I only put it on when I have the blower on and I normally forget about turning that lockout so my rockshaft should be going up and down with my angle function on the blade (though normally the PTO Midshaft isn't installed with the blade) or chute control on the blower.

I forget where the OP is from (North Carolina maybe) I think it was a warmer climate and I don't recall seeing a blower in his list so maybe he doesn't have the front PTO?
I didnt install the latch on mine, I have the lockout valve and felt that I didnt need something else to hang up or forget about. To me its like wearing a belt and suspenders. But I assume that if the dealer installs the kit, they have to put it on. If the pin on the lanyard comes out, I believe that the latch can hook on when the draft arms are lifted up. The pin holds the latch back when not in use, and holds it in place when in use as well.
 

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I didnt install the latch on mine, I have the lockout valve and felt that I didnt need something else to hang up or forget about. To me its like wearing a belt and suspenders. But I assume that if the dealer installs the kit, they have to put it on. If the pin on the lanyard comes out, I believe that the latch can hook on when the draft arms are lifted up. The pin holds the latch back when not in use, and holds it in place when in use as well.
So to clarify it is the draft arms that can bend the PTO Mid Shaft? I don't have them on my machine but I just don't see where the interference could be on a X585. The mid shaft runs right up through about the middle of the machine. The arms dropping down don't have any down force. Just like with the 3pt you can't put down pressure on them it is just the weight of the attachment on the 3pt arms or the mower deck on the draft arms to pull them down. As I mentioned there have been times where I have to pull them down by hand when the deck isn't there.

Not doubting what you are saying, I just wonder if something is different with the two different models. Dimension or feature wise I don't know where a x485 is smaller than a x585 not to mention the renumbering confusion that they threw out there as well. A X585 kind of morphed into the X728 in 06. Then there is the comment that I remember my Father in Law making about bending the shaft which is what you mentioned. I could have sworn that he left the mid shaft on and installed the mower deck. If you lifted the deck it would bend the shaft. I get that interference. But why would someone install a deck just to have it hanging there since you can't hook it up with the mid shaft in place?

I would agree that if the kit was available the dealer would install it if a machine was ordered with front PTO. The OP may not have a blower or broom that would require a front PTO but that doesn't mean he doesn't have it installed because he isn't the original owner. For all we know the machine was originally delivered in Minnesota with all those attachments and a snowblower. The original owner got relocated to NC and sold the blower rather than move to NC with it where there is no use for it.
 

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So to clarify it is the draft arms that can bend the PTO Mid Shaft? I don't have them on my machine but I just don't see where the interference could be on a X585. The mid shaft runs right up through about the middle of the machine. The arms dropping down don't have any down force. Just like with the 3pt you can't put down pressure on them it is just the weight of the attachment on the 3pt arms or the mower deck on the draft arms to pull them down. As I mentioned there have been times where I have to pull them down by hand when the deck isn't there.

Not doubting what you are saying, I just wonder if something is different with the two different models. Dimension or feature wise I don't know where a x485 is smaller than a x585 not to mention the renumbering confusion that they threw out there as well. A X585 kind of morphed into the X728 in 06. Then there is the comment that I remember my Father in Law making about bending the shaft which is what you mentioned. I could have sworn that he left the mid shaft on and installed the mower deck. If you lifted the deck it would bend the shaft. I get that interference. But why would someone install a deck just to have it hanging there since you can't hook it up with the mid shaft in place?

I would agree that if the kit was available the dealer would install it if a machine was ordered with front PTO. The OP may not have a blower or broom that would require a front PTO but that doesn't mean he doesn't have it installed because he isn't the original owner. For all we know the machine was originally delivered in Minnesota with all those attachments and a snowblower. The original owner got relocated to NC and sold the blower rather than move to NC with it where there is no use for it.
I didnt notice anything that "could" bend the PTO shaft. The PTO shaft has to come off to mount the deck because they both attach at the same output on the transaxle. In the screenshot I posted from the manual, there is a bar that runs side to side on the tractor that is attached to the draft arms, I cant remember if mine has that or not, I want to say it didnt and that was half the reason I didnt install the latch assembly. But with that bar on the draft arms, if they were to settle, it would sit on the pto shaft. Like you said there is no downforce but it would be resting on it.
 
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