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I was trying to get my fuel guage working found some questionable solder joints, so I repaired was testing and before temp seemed fine but now when I engage the PTO it will go to overheat and when I turn off PTO it seems to drop to a normal temp. Anyone have any ideas also I had removed the needles how do you reinstall temperature needle to correct setting or calibrate it to correct reading. The fuel guage now just reads full I filled it up and set needle to full but it never dropped after mowing.
 

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I was trying to get my fuel guage working found some questionable solder joints, so I repaired was testing and before temp seemed fine but now when I engage the PTO it will go to overheat and when I turn off PTO it seems to drop to a normal temp. Anyone have any ideas also I had removed the needles how do you reinstall temperature needle to correct setting or calibrate it to correct reading. The fuel guage now just reads full I filled it up and set needle to full but it never dropped after mowing.
Sounds like you need a whole new instrument cluster.
 

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From doing past repair work on GM clusters I used that experience to fix my cluster on my X585.

What you are mentioning about the temp gauge pegging out when the PTO is on is classic bad ground issue/bad cluster. The official fix is a new cluster then bond the ground. I guess there were some issues where the ground point in the harness is not that great. In my case I used a solider sucker to desoldier all the soldier points where the harness socket connected to the main circuit board. I then added flux and resoldiered them. You might get lucky just reflowing the soldier. I know on some GM clusters I got away with that method on some surface mount resistors. As you probably know these joints on the cluster, which is likely the ones you addressed, are pins through the board so much easier to fully remove, properly flux and resoldier rather than gamble with a reflow.

For bonding the ground, I just ran a new ground wire from the frame and spliced it into the wiring harness right where the connector is for the cluster. I would assume the wire is the same so if you need me to look it up just ask. I don't remember which wire it was off the top of my head but I want to say it was one in one of the corners of the connector.

I don't know which fix (soldier joint or new ground) fixed my issue as I performed both at the same time. Both items are listed in the official fix for this issue though.

When it comes to the needles. What I always do when doing a cluster repair and need to remove the needles from the stepper motors is to take some blue painter's masking tape and stick it to the cluster slipping it under the needle. I then take a sharpie and mark the needle's position, then use a fork as pry bar to slide under the needle and slowly work it up. If it is a stepper motor that has a stop in the motor, like the speedometer in the GM cluster it doesn't matter as much. Of course if replacing a stepper motor then it doesn't matter as much either. I have been lucky in just noting where that lower or upper limit stop is and using that as a reference with some tape.

Being you are past the point of being able to mark them. Your best bet is to know what the rest/powered off state is on a known good cluster and set the needle there. We are talking fuel level and temp on a tractor so it doesn't matter that much if a little off. I can look at my cluster and see where my needles are sitting when it is off. I think they are all the way down but I am not 100% sure. The cluster on a X585 would be the same as a X595 in this respect.
 

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From doing past repair work on GM clusters I used that experience to fix my cluster on my X585.

What you are mentioning about the temp gauge pegging out when the PTO is on is classic bad ground issue/bad cluster. The official fix is a new cluster then bond the ground. I guess there were some issues where the ground point in the harness is not that great. In my case I used a solider sucker to desoldier all the soldier points where the harness socket connected to the main circuit board. I then added flux and resoldiered them. You might get lucky just reflowing the soldier. I know on some GM clusters I got away with that method on some surface mount resistors. As you probably know these joints on the cluster, which is likely the ones you addressed, are pins through the board so much easier to fully remove, properly flux and resoldier rather than gamble with a reflow.

For bonding the ground, I just ran a new ground wire from the frame and spliced it into the wiring harness right where the connector is for the cluster. I would assume the wire is the same so if you need me to look it up just ask. I don't remember which wire it was off the top of my head but I want to say it was one in one of the corners of the connector.

I don't know which fix (soldier joint or new ground) fixed my issue as I performed both at the same time. Both items are listed in the official fix for this issue though.

When it comes to the needles. What I always do when doing a cluster repair and need to remove the needles from the stepper motors is to take some blue painter's masking tape and stick it to the cluster slipping it under the needle. I then take a sharpie and mark the needle's position, then use a fork as pry bar to slide under the needle and slowly work it up. If it is a stepper motor that has a stop in the motor, like the speedometer in the GM cluster it doesn't matter as much. Of course if replacing a stepper motor then it doesn't matter as much either. I have been lucky in just noting where that lower or upper limit stop is and using that as a reference with some tape.

Being you are past the point of being able to mark them. Your best bet is to know what the rest/powered off state is on a known good cluster and set the needle there. We are talking fuel level and temp on a tractor so it doesn't matter that much if a little off. I can look at my cluster and see where my needles are sitting when it is off. I think they are all the way down but I am not 100% sure. The cluster on a X585 would be the same as a X595 in this respect.
Do you have any idea if the new dash components, which are available for replacement, have resolved the issues which lead to this problem which is reported from time to time? Or are the new dashes just a few years of use away from having the same problems? I am wondering if the manufacturing has changed which allows this grounding issue to happen in the first place.

This is the second mention I have seen this month about a Temp Gauge on the x5x5 models (x585 and x595) pegging maximum when the PTO is engaged. Also mentions of the fuel gauge not reading correctly.......

John Deere has consolidated the gauge unit part numbers into a single part number. SUB FOR AM133062, AM134597 OR AM129665 as well as AM134900, AM133295 OR AM132477 into AM148259........WOW, which Green Parts sells for $1,021.30.......That's just crazy expensive........

Looks like I would be locating a fuel cap with the manual fuel gauge cork on the spiral post on the inside of the cap......Or, putting fuel in to to fill the tractor every time I finished using it.......Perhaps mounting a stand alone temp gauge if necessary.....But over a thousand dollars for the gauge unit? Looks like there could be a real business in repairing and procuring and providing rebuilt dash units for these machines. These are such stalwart machines, other than the flaky ground problem in the Instrument Cluster harness.......
 

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I went and checked my X595. The fuel gauge is sitting at the level it was at when I shut it down. Same with the temp. It was holding the temp it was at when I shut it off. When I turned the key on the temp dropped to the white line. The servo must just stay in position when you shut the tractor off.

My gauge cluster was replaced and I have the old one. Previous owner thought he would fix it and I ended up with it in pieces. I sucked the solder off the ground pin and fluxed and soldered it again. I also used an exacto knife to scrape the trace clean adjacent to the ground post. Flux'd it and flowed from the post joint down onto the trace. On my 10X surface scope it appeared to be cracked next to the original solder joint? I actually contemplated running an additional ground to a second location on the circuit board.

I have it on the shelf as a backup. My needles are all messed up also but I figured when needed I would plug it in and set them appropriately. ie: Full tank of gas and cold temp.
 

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Do you have any idea if the new dash components, which are available for replacement, have resolved the issues which lead to this problem which is reported from time to time? Or are the new dashes just a few years of use away from having the same problems? I am wondering if the manufacturing has changed which allows this grounding issue to happen in the first place.

This is the second mention I have seen this month about a Temp Gauge on the x5x5 models (x585 and x595) pegging maximum when the PTO is engaged. Also mentions of the fuel gauge not reading correctly.......

John Deere has consolidated the gauge unit part numbers into a single part number. SUB FOR AM133062, AM134597 OR AM129665 as well as AM134900, AM133295 OR AM132477 into AM148259........WOW, which Green Parts sells for $1,021.30.......That's just crazy expensive........

Looks like I would be locating a fuel cap with the manual fuel gauge cork on the spiral post on the inside of the cap......Or, putting fuel in to to fill the tractor every time I finished using it.......Perhaps mounting a stand alone temp gauge if necessary.....But over a thousand dollars for the gauge unit? Looks like there could be a real business in repairing and procuring and providing rebuilt dash units for these machines. These are such stalwart machines, other than the flaky ground problem in the Instrument Cluster harness.......
Since this is a two part issue I will address each separately. You are right that this is the second time in a month. I actually thought maybe it was the first person again when I started to read this thinking maybe he got around to trying the fix and had an issue but then noticed this is a new member. Also for what it is worth, I think I have looked up and referenced my X585 refresh post and specifically the section on the cluster repair quite a few times. I would say 5-6 and who knows if I have seen all the posts come in with this issue.

I want to say that the issue with the bad ground is more of an issue with early (low SN) models. They discovered that they started having ground issues and issued a notification to dealers that machines with SN_____ through _____) have this issue and here is how to fix it. Too bad my now ex dealer didn't bother to look up these notices when I took my machine in for this issue when I didn't have time to deal with it. They might still have a customer and they wouldn't have a former customer around town that will warn everyone to avoid them at all costs. Anyhow I don't know if the later version had the ground issue but it is an easy thing to add even if it isn't an issue. Odds are most people have stuff laying around that can address it. I know I did.

As for the cluster. I haven't seen a new one to see if they changed anything internally. I suspect the issue is mainly vibration and maybe too much strain on the harness where it connects to the cluster. It broke a few of the soldier joints. Unless they moved the connector, or maybe redesigned something to not be as susceptible to vibration I don't see that there is any difference. Maybe they went with a connector that then has a wire connection to the board rather than the solid pins. That would isolate out vibration. Again that is a fix they could do to fix it but I haven't cracked open a cluster to see. This is a case where the cluster isn't a serviceable part if you talk to Deere. They wouldn't expect a dealer to have someone set up to do electronics repair like this. In my case I have taken electronics courses in college and have past experience replacing stepper motors and other issues with clusters from GM vehicles. I figured this couldn't be that much different and besides it is broken anyhow so why not try and fix it before replacing it. I also have a digital soldier station and a desoldiering iron where this wasn't a difficult repair once I saw what was going on. You do need at a minimum an iron with a pretty small tip.

I would also expect X4xx machines from the same generation to have these issues. I don't recall seeing many of them reported. They are just the 2wd version and I don't see this as an issue only impacting the X5x5 machines because of 4wd.
 

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I went and checked my X595. The fuel gauge is sitting at the level it was at when I shut it down. Same with the temp. It was holding the temp it was at when I shut it off. When I turned the key on the temp dropped to the white line. The servo must just stay in position when you shut the tractor off.

My gauge cluster was replaced and I have the old one. Previous owner thought he would fix it and I ended up with it in pieces. I sucked the solder off the ground pin and fluxed and soldered it again. I also used an exacto knife to scrape the trace clean adjacent to the ground post. Flux'd it and flowed from the post joint down onto the trace. On my 10X surface scope it appeared to be cracked next to the original solder joint? I actually contemplated running an additional ground to a second location on the circuit board.

I have it on the shelf as a backup. My needles are all messed up also but I figured when needed I would plug it in and set them appropriately. ie: Full tank of gas and cold temp.
I thought you reused my photo at first but saw it was post repair. Here is where I posted on the issue that I had. You can see a couple shots of the broken soldier joints and how it is the same pin that you showed.

Refreshing a X585 - Page 3

This is a reoccuring issue. I wonder if it would be best to combine my photos and yours post repair to document a tech article on how to address this as it keeps popping up? Maybe this weekend I can try and throw something together if you don't mind me borrowing some of your info as well? I find I keep referencing my post I linked to above for people and I don't see this issue going away. I want to say a new cluster when I looked one up a few years back as my fall back plan was around $200-300. If they are $1K now that is crazy.
 

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Feel free. I am only here to help others and brag about my dogs! :laugh:
 

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The trace scraped clean before I removed the old solder.
 

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Since this is a two part issue I will address each separately. You are right that this is the second time in a month. I actually thought maybe it was the first person again when I started to read this thinking maybe he got around to trying the fix and had an issue but then noticed this is a new member. Also for what it is worth, I think I have looked up and referenced my X585 refresh post and specifically the section on the cluster repair quite a few times. I would say 5-6 and who knows if I have seen all the posts come in with this issue.

I want to say that the issue with the bad ground is more of an issue with early (low SN) models. They discovered that they started having ground issues and issued a notification to dealers that machines with SN_____ through _____) have this issue and here is how to fix it. Too bad my now ex dealer didn't bother to look up these notices when I took my machine in for this issue when I didn't have time to deal with it. They might still have a customer and they wouldn't have a former customer around town that will warn everyone to avoid them at all costs. Anyhow I don't know if the later version had the ground issue but it is an easy thing to add even if it isn't an issue. Odds are most people have stuff laying around that can address it. I know I did.

As for the cluster. I haven't seen a new one to see if they changed anything internally. I suspect the issue is mainly vibration and maybe too much strain on the harness where it connects to the cluster. It broke a few of the soldier joints. Unless they moved the connector, or maybe redesigned something to not be as susceptible to vibration I don't see that there is any difference. Maybe they went with a connector that then has a wire connection to the board rather than the solid pins. That would isolate out vibration. Again that is a fix they could do to fix it but I haven't cracked open a cluster to see. This is a case where the cluster isn't a serviceable part if you talk to Deere. They wouldn't expect a dealer to have someone set up to do electronics repair like this. In my case I have taken electronics courses in college and have past experience replacing stepper motors and other issues with clusters from GM vehicles. I figured this couldn't be that much different and besides it is broken anyhow so why not try and fix it before replacing it. I also have a digital soldier station and a desoldiering iron where this wasn't a difficult repair once I saw what was going on. You do need at a minimum an iron with a pretty small tip.

I would also expect X4xx machines from the same generation to have these issues. I don't recall seeing many of them reported. They are just the 2wd version and I don't see this as an issue only impacting the X5x5 machines because of 4wd.
My neighbor who mows in circles (always blowing the grass inward and cutting the grass over and over) has a x485, I will have to take a peak at his dash and see if its operating correctly. He stores his tractor outside much of the summer and then sends it to storage for the winter.

I will be mowing next door to the neighbor with the x485 today and when I mow, he usually comes out and mows. I will use that opportunity to look at the dash and see if its acting normal. He has had the machine since new and I will also ask him if he has had an issue with the dash. He doesn't do any service work or anything mechanical himself, he relies exclusively on the dealer...........
 

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Feel free. I am only here to help others and brag about my dogs! :laugh:
The now infamous "Double W's", Woodie and Winnie....

Mrs. Bear insists that Woodie should always be mentioned first as he deserves the respect and his "seniority"...:good2:
 

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My neighbor who mows in circles (always blowing the grass inward and cutting the grass over and over) has a x485, I will have to take a peak at his dash and see if its operating correctly. He stores his tractor outside much of the summer and then sends it to storage for the winter.

I will be mowing next door to the neighbor with the x485 today and when I mow, he usually comes out and mows. I will use that opportunity to look at the dash and see if its acting normal. He has had the machine since new and I will also ask him if he has had an issue with the dash. He doesn't do any service work or anything mechanical himself, he relies exclusively on the dealer...........
In case he does not come out to mow;
I have an x485, bought used in 2016 w/500hours. It's now at 620hours and the dash guages both work fine.

IIRC I saw a post on another forum where, due to the high price of the x4XX and x5XX guage cluster, they adapted an x7XX cluster that sold for much less.
 

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My neighbor who mows in circles (always blowing the grass inward and cutting the grass over and over) has a x485, I will have to take a peak at his dash and see if its operating correctly. He stores his tractor outside much of the summer and then sends it to storage for the winter.

I will be mowing next door to the neighbor with the x485 today and when I mow, he usually comes out and mows. I will use that opportunity to look at the dash and see if its acting normal. He has had the machine since new and I will also ask him if he has had an issue with the dash. He doesn't do any service work or anything mechanical himself, he relies exclusively on the dealer...........
For what it is worth this issue normally only presents itself while the PTO is running. So, while mowing if he has the issue it will do it. However, I have noticed it is intermittent even with mowing. If you are focusing at mowing and don't look down, you may not see it doing it.
 

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I was under the hood of an X585. This tractor previously had a dash issue. The owner said it was a pin issue in the white connector. He bypassed the one wire to fix it. Not sure if it was the ground since he used a red wire for the bypass.

What I did notice was he had rerouted the harness heading to the cluster. This actually left a slack loop in it. Dangerously close to the throttle control but compared to the banjo string route mine takes, may be part of the permanent solution.


FWIW
 

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For what it is worth this issue normally only presents itself while the PTO is running. So, while mowing if he has the issue it will do it. However, I have noticed it is intermittent even with mowing. If you are focusing at mowing and don't look down, you may not see it doing it.
I had to laugh when I read that because this is the neighbor who mows in circles and figure 8's and does everything he can to avoid backing (or even stopping...) because of the RIO. As a result, his lawn ends up cut, but he tends to make turns into neighbors lawns sometimes 8 to 10 feet, which they complain about. He also always and I mean ALWAYS blows the clippings into the area to be cut, cutting the clippings over and over. When he is done, he rakes piles of grass all over the lawn and then uses a wheel barrow to pick them up.....seems like the hard way to do it to me....:dunno:

He had asked me about mowing his yard for him from time to time and I did it a couple of times to help him out. But he likes to sit stuff all over his yard which need to be moved, like benches, hose reels, wheel barrows and just random stuff which really needs a better long term home. He also leaves garden hoses laying across the lawn, which need to be rolled up. It took me too much time to pick up or move all of his stuff to mow so I no longer fill in.

So I would be surprised if he has ever looked at the dash while he is mowing......:laugh::lol:
 

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I was under the hood of an X585. This tractor previously had a dash issue. The owner said it was a pin issue in the white connector. He bypassed the one wire to fix it. Not sure if it was the ground since he used a red wire for the bypass.

What I did notice was he had rerouted the harness heading to the cluster. This actually left a slack loop in it. Dangerously close to the throttle control but compared to the banjo string route mine takes, may be part of the permanent solution.


FWIW
Oh boy.......:laugh::lol: sounds like fun for someone else in the future.....:yahoo:
 

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I had to laugh when I read that because this is the neighbor who mows in circles and figure 8's and does everything he can to avoid backing (or even stopping...) because of the RIO. As a result, his lawn ends up cut, but he tends to make turns into neighbors lawns sometimes 8 to 10 feet, which they complain about. He also always and I mean ALWAYS blows the clippings into the area to be cut, cutting the clippings over and over. When he is done, he rakes piles of grass all over the lawn and then uses a wheel barrow to pick them up.....seems like the hard way to do it to me....:dunno:

He had asked me about mowing his yard for him from time to time and I did it a couple of times to help him out. But he likes to sit stuff all over his yard which need to be moved, like benches, hose reels, wheel barrows and just random stuff which really needs a better long term home. He also leaves garden hoses laying across the lawn, which need to be rolled up. It took me too much time to pick up or move all of his stuff to mow so I no longer fill in.

So I would be surprised if he has ever looked at the dash while he is mowing......:laugh::lol:
Did you ever think he might be leaving that stuff out so you get annoyed and stop cutting his lawn? :mocking:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update to dash issue

So I pulled the dash and resoldered all all joints, reinstalled dash noticed when I turn the switch on but don't start and turn lights on dash lights come on but when I start the engine and turn the lights on backlights on fuel and temp don't come on and and needle starts to peg turn lights off and needle goes to normal. What would make the backlights on fuel and temp not work when engine is running but work fine with switch in the on position.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Dash woes

Wanted add was just checking connections and grounds cleaning connectors, when I pushed the yellow service reset button in the dashlights acted normal and gauges seemed to go back to normal working position as soon as I released the yellow button gauge lights went out and gauges started to peg.
 
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