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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so here the image. Your Garden tractor is on the (flat deck, open) trailer. All strapped down nice and solid and will not move. Were ready to roll. Are we?
Hmm, lets take another walk around what we're hauling. Check straps, yep we're good to go. (ramps needing stowed aside)

What potential problem can arise while traveling at high speeds?
Aside from having to stop fast and the straps breaking. EVERYTHING is secured. Nothing will come loose, you're comfortable with that.

What about the hood on the Garden Tractor? Wind currents will (based on speed traveled) lift the hood eventually. Then what? What happens next?
The hood gets broken from being beat by that wind. Yes, it's attached at the pivot point, for raising it by hand. I wonder how many hoods have been damaged because the wind played soccer with them.
How many of you have found yourself in this predicament? C'mon......fess up now!!

Not it!!
I have a solution to prevention. And NO, it does not involve putting rope or a strap over the hood!!
 

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If you have a solution why aren’t you posting it? Is this some sort of game.....?

Put the tractor on the trailer with the rear end forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not a game at all. I post solutions in the form of making people "think" about the scenario.
Did you cheat on your tests while in school?

Parking the rear of the tractor forward is not the answer. Without retention, try it at 55+ mph and let us know how that went!!
 

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Ok, so here the image. Your Garden tractor is on the (flat deck, open) trailer. All strapped down nice and solid and will not move. Were ready to roll. Are we?
Hmm, lets take another walk around what we're hauling. Check straps, yep we're good to go. (ramps needing stowed aside)

What potential problem can arise while traveling at high speeds?
Aside from having to stop fast and the straps breaking. EVERYTHING is secured. Nothing will come loose, you're comfortable with that.

What about the hood on the Garden Tractor? Wind currents will (based on speed traveled) lift the hood eventually. Then what? What happens next?
The hood gets broken from being beat by that wind. Yes, it's attached at the pivot point, for raising it by hand. I wonder how many hoods have been damaged because the wind played soccer with them.
How many of you have found yourself in this predicament? C'mon......fess up now!!

Not it!!
I have a solution to prevention. And NO, it does not involve putting rope or a strap over the hood!!
I recently hauled my x485 on an open snowmobile trailer (borrowed). I put it in facing forward. One strap on the mower front draft bars the other on a rod at the rear that goes across just below the fenders. Straps pulling opposed to each other. My hood stayed shut, I went 6 miles each way, all under 55mph. Probably 40-45mph. No problems for that pull. I did not strap the hood down or anything other than make sure it was latched. Had it come open the hood guard would have stopped it from coming full open. But most likely some damage would have occurred. :flag_of_truce::banghead::nunu:

If you have a solution why aren’t you posting it? Is this some sort of game.....?

Put the tractor on the trailer with the rear end forward.
I think putting it on backwards would cause the hood to "scoop" air and possibly open. So not a good idea.

I'll watch for your solution :munch:
 

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I forgot to say when i bought it used in 2016, I hauled it on an open trailer about 150 miles most over 55mph and the hood stayed shut. No hood guard then, a later addition. :good2:
 

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When I bought my x738 the dealer dropped it off on a flat bed trailer. Twenty miles of highway driving. The hood was never strapped down and didn't open going down the highway.
If I ever need to haul my x738 on a trailer in the future I have an enclosed trailer with a ramp door so I wouldn't have to worry about the wind. I guess my solution is buy an enclosed trailer to haul your tractor if your worry about the wind.
 

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I've hauled the x738 3-4-5 times on open trailer, at 70 mph on the interstate. Pulled the tractor on the trailer , hood never came up once . When tractor was delivered it was pulled on the flat bed. IMO it won't open because unlike a car -truck hood it hinges on the front of the hood not at the rear of the hood.

IMO if you back it on the trailer you're asking for the hood to fly open. :dunno:

My biggest concern is a strap comes loose from bouncing of the trailer and tractor moves on the trailer. Had this happen years ago on a snowmobile trailer with no raised side rails. I had stopped and checked the straps on our road after traveling 13 miles to Route 40. Had another 10-13 miles to my JD dealer, had been checking my mirrors and after going over a bridge -overpass thought I seen the trailer move. OH it will be OK, pulled in the lot and front tire was about an inch from going off the front of the trailer. OH SH_ _ .. Stopped on the way home bought commercial straps , plus now use a chain and snap down binder to secure what I'm hauling.
 

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I must agree with the original poster. In the right conditions it's possible for the hood to blow up. I had a six foot heavy duty ladder (weighs about 30 or more lbs) blow out of the back of a pickup once. I had done this same thing many times without a problem. Just put it all the way forward no problem except once. Thank god it didn't hit anybody. :hide:
Ron
 

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The hoods will lift as the air circulates under the right conditions. If you are on an interstate next to a semi truck or other large tall vehicle (bus, RV, etc.) the air gets very turbulent. Plus there is suddenly a lot of "lift" on the air as the large vehicles pass you.

For those of us who are very experienced motorcycle riders, we know the unpredictable conditions or the air especially around a variety of vehicles. I always load the tractors nose forward and I put a bungee strap over the hood, not a ratchet strap, You don't need to put down pressure on the hood, You just want to "discourage it" from catching air and lifting. Put something around the strap to protect the hood, either tie shammies cloths to it or something similar as the strap buffeting in the wind will also damage the hood.

I could see the wind buffeting the hood on the 1 series enough to pop the hood on the trailer with the 2017 and prior style latch. I don't know enough about the 2018 hood latch mechanism. One thing for sure, The hood flexes a lot. .........

My friend who owns a repair shop for small engines has his driver secure a strap over the hoods on all lawn tractors when they haul them. He uses a long bungee strap which has a couple of "soft" wraps on the strap so it doesn't scuff or mar the hood. Usually, the wraps are on the top or edges of the hood. The hoods can be very expensive and some are very hard to get. All it takes is damaging one and it wipes out the profit from lot of repairs or lawn work.

While the hood for my 1025R is "only" about $125, there are some Deere hoods which are nearly $1,000.......The hood for my 455 is nearly $500 with the required decals, with the side panels, it's nearly $1,000.

Here's one hood which is $900 plus.....

https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Complete-Assembly-AM132526/dp/B01BZCY142/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1530479808&sr=8-8&keywords=john+deere+hoods+for+lawn+mowers
 

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duct tape is ALWAYS the answer!!:thumbup1gif:

tape the edges and over the hood.

Too much tape residue and the potential for the tape to damage the decals or finish on the hood for my taste.

Perhaps some will duct tape their hoods, but I am a fan of using duct tape on repairs or for permanent uses. Of course, I use Gorilla tape and that stuff is seriously strong and extremely sticky. I would not put duct tape on something with a finish I care about, like my tractor hood, etc.......If it was damaged and I was securing it while damaged, then I would go for it. But for transport, I would be reluctant to use duct tape. Especially with the tape in the sun and the adhesives, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I agree with most of what's been mentioned about the hood not being an issue. But it just takes once under the right (or wrong) conditions to ruin your (or an innocent drivers ) day with a surprise, an injury, a ticket for in-secure load, and replacement cost of the hood. The reason I posted my OP as I did, was to see what types of response I got in return. Was it a game? Maybe. I've always thought outside my comfort zone to do my best to be prepared. So, does the hood "need" to be secured? That's left up to the individual taking the chance, and their FAT wallet.

On the bottom of the hood of the X700 Series (open the hood) there are two holes on each side. I've no idea why they're there, but I have a use for them. And that's where I plan to secure my hood to the tractor. Raise the hood. Have a look at the holes I refer too. Now (see image) picture attaching one of these. Measurements are provided for your convenience. Find the correct size, attach with a backer plate, add a heavy rubber snubber or O-Ring with an "S" hook, and attach the snubber to an "eye" that you install somewhere below the lower hood line.

It's just my backyard mentality and ideas kicking in. You decide if you like the thought enough to do it yourself. :good2:

Note:
All the straps I refer to are stainless. Marine related, FYI.

x7xx_hood_strap.jpg
 

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Ok, so here the image. Your Garden tractor is on the (flat deck, open) trailer. All strapped down nice and solid and will not move. Were ready to roll. Are we?
Hmm, lets take another walk around what we're hauling. Check straps, yep we're good to go. (ramps needing stowed aside)

What potential problem can arise while traveling at high speeds?
Aside from having to stop fast and the straps breaking. EVERYTHING is secured. Nothing will come loose, you're comfortable with that.

What about the hood on the Garden Tractor? Wind currents will (based on speed traveled) lift the hood eventually. Then what? What happens next?
The hood gets broken from being beat by that wind. Yes, it's attached at the pivot point, for raising it by hand. I wonder how many hoods have been damaged because the wind played soccer with them.
How many of you have found yourself in this predicament? C'mon......fess up now!!

Not it!!
I have a solution to prevention. And NO, it does not involve putting rope or a strap over the hood!!
Never Had a Hood fly Up On either My X485 or X748 Transporting On a open Trailer at 75Mph Plus and That's Many trips for the Both of them Traveling 2.5Hrs or 5Hrs round trip By Tollway to My 18 acre Property & Back Home. I have Never Had a Hood fly Up On any Tractor I have Owned and Have Never even thought of strapping the Hood down. My Deere's that I own all have the Lightest hoods as well all others Have steel Hoods so I wouldn't even think about the Hood :bigthumb:
 

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PMCS sarge
Time to Buy that 3 Point Hitch for Your X700 series
Now that I have Your 140 3point Hitch I am going to convert My existing 140 3 Point Hitch to use a electric actuator and use it On My 1969 JD 112:bigthumb:
 

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Trailer

I built up this trailer to haul my motorcycle and what ever else. I added a track system to tie down anything. I just hauled my x738 700 miles without any problems. I had 2 straps on the front and 2 from the rear. I had a 4x4 block screwed down to trailer in front of rear wheels. I have a peice of plexie glass I add to front of trailer to stop most of the wind. This trailer was less than $2500. It's the best $2500 I ever spent and it very light. trailer11.jpg
 

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I forgot to say when i bought it used in 2016, I hauled it on an open trailer about 150 miles most over 55mph and the hood stayed shut. No hood guard then, a later addition. :good2:
when i bought my x475 i had to travel out to Ohio-a little above Cincinnati, took my 16 ft trailer-tied the front end of frame, and rear drawbar-never done nuthing to the hood-but did pull it on. yeah if i would of rolled over--tractor would of been done:dunno:but so would of my truck & trailer. hood never opened that i saw on the way home.:dunno:course i didn't have a camera back there -either.

i've hauled my 2520 mcut since 2006, and it's hood has never came open in them yrs, and i've loaded it both ways. but prefer to pull it on.:munch:
 

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The hoods will lift as the air circulates under the right conditions. If you are on an interstate next to a semi truck or other large tall vehicle (bus, RV, etc.) the air gets very turbulent. Plus there is suddenly a lot of "lift" on the air as the large vehicles pass you.

For those of us who are very experienced motorcycle riders, we know the unpredictable conditions or the air especially around a variety of vehicles. I always load the tractors nose forward and I put a bungee strap over the hood, not a ratchet strap, You don't need to put down pressure on the hood, You just want to "discourage it" from catching air and lifting. Put something around the strap to protect the hood, either tie shammies cloths to it or something similar as the strap buffeting in the wind will also damage the hood.

I could see the wind buffeting the hood on the 1 series enough to pop the hood on the trailer with the 2017 and prior style latch. I don't know enough about the 2018 hood latch mechanism. One thing for sure, The hood flexes a lot. .........

My friend who owns a repair shop for small engines has his driver secure a strap over the hoods on all lawn tractors when they haul them. He uses a long bungee strap which has a couple of "soft" wraps on the strap so it doesn't scuff or mar the hood. Usually, the wraps are on the top or edges of the hood. The hoods can be very expensive and some are very hard to get. All it takes is damaging one and it wipes out the profit from lot of repairs or lawn work.

While the hood for my 1025R is "only" about $125, there are some Deere hoods which are nearly $1,000.......The hood for my 455 is nearly $500 with the required decals, with the side panels, it's nearly $1,000.

Here's one hood which is $900 plus.....

https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Complete-Assembly-AM132526/dp/B01BZCY142/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1530479808&sr=8-8&keywords=john+deere+hoods+for+lawn+mowers

Very good analogy with the motorcycle and tractor trailer trucks. The bungee cord across the hood is a good idea as it won't cause significant damage and will keep it shut.

As far as the concern of ratchet straps breaking...yes it's a 1,000 LBS tractor but that doesn't mean you should used cheapo ratchet straps that are rated for 500 -1000lbs each. If you slam on your breaks that tractor weight multiples numerous times. Expect the tractor to come free. The few times I've trailered my tractor on backroads I use 3" straps and pull it 4 ways
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Back when we had quads on our trailer, I bought ANCRA straps to secure them all. I've used the ratchet straps on my X739. And now that you woke my brain up (I need coffee), I'm going to find some higher rated straps to keep mine on the trailer for piece of mind. I'd hate to get azz ended by my Garden Tractor. And here I was concerned with securing the hood. Thanks for mentioning the compounded stopping weight. I need to get on it and get new straps!!

What would you recommend for brand/rating of straps to buy?
 

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I had pretty good luck with straps from Ratchet Strap USA. I didn't hear anything negative about them prior to purchasing. All I have so far is a 1" x 10' strap that I use for general use in my pickup bed. They are rated for 1,100 LBS WLL. My Father in law has huge 6" suckers that we used, way overkill. Every since this conversation the other day I hopped back on Ratchet Strap USA's website and began to look for something with a higher WLL (working load limit).


Currently have these 1"x10' ones https://www.ratchetstraps.com/1-inch-heavy-duty-ratchet-strap-s-hooks


I'm looking at getting 2"x 15' straps that have a WLL of 3,335 LBS. This would be good enough to hold the x758, especially when one is used on each corner. That being said I cannot decide if I want to go with the standard wire hook design or go with the chain and hook design. I am undecided but I think I'll get them in a 15' length. It will give me 5' more than what my 1" ones offer but they also won't leave excessive amount of slack to tie up should I not need all the length.

2" strap with wire hook https://www.ratchetstraps.com/2-custom-usa-ratchet-strap-with-wire-hooks

2" strap with chain and hooks https://www.ratchetstraps.com/2-custom-usa-ratchet-strap-with-chain-and-hooks

I'll also add a few of the axle straps so I can place it through the front of the frame so I don't damage the powder coat on the frame from using hooks or chains. https://www.ratchetstraps.com/2-custom-usa-heavy-duty-axle-strap-with-forged-delta-rings


My future plan if I go for straps again I'd jump up to a 4" x 20' or 25'. I figure if I need that kind of length then the potential force exerted on them might be increased as well, hence why I'd go up to a 4" size.


Anyone have any feedback or advice to decide between the wire hook design or the chain and hook design? I don't have my own trailer at this time, only a 6.5' bed in my Ram 1500. I'm not sure when or what type of trailer I'll buy so I won't know the type of tie down types that will be on the frame.


Ohh and they're having a sale 12% off with "STARS" as the coupon code. :bigthumb:
 
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