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Discussion Starter #1
ok currently have x738 54 in deck 54 in front blade
2038r 72 in deck loader 66in tiller front 366 blade
original plans was when i bought the 2038 i had an offer in on a piece of land in the country with a super nice building on it 10 acres total and was going to move all my toys and tools out there under one roof instead of 3 storage units and a garage( moved to iowa 5 years ago with job change from a farm and lots of buildings
had a house firre 2 weeks after tractor purchase and 2 days after that the guy pulled the acreage from the realtor
fast forward insurance didnt cover everything so the acreage piece is out of questions for now so as soon as im done landscaping and leveling the 2038r is going to get sold
my questions
i want to be able to have a tiller for gardens and side jobs, mow my yard so do i go with a new x738 and add 3 point and pto or do i step up to 1025r?
i have a ranger that ill put a front plow on to plow snow with but would like to purchase a blower someday
thoughts?
how much more top heavy is the 1025r? than the x738?
thanks
 

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ok currently have x738 54 in deck 54 in front blade
2038r 72 in deck loader 66in tiller front 366 blade
original plans was when i bought the 2038 i had an offer in on a piece of land in the country with a super nice building on it 10 acres total and was going to move all my toys and tools out there under one roof instead of 3 storage units and a garage( moved to iowa 5 years ago with job change from a farm and lots of buildings
had a house firre 2 weeks after tractor purchase and 2 days after that the guy pulled the acreage from the realtor
fast forward insurance didnt cover everything so the acreage piece is out of questions for now so as soon as im done landscaping and leveling the 2038r is going to get sold
my questions
i want to be able to have a tiller for gardens and side jobs, mow my yard so do i go with a new x738 and add 3 point and pto or do i step up to 1025r?
i have a ranger that ill put a front plow on to plow snow with but would like to purchase a blower someday
thoughts?
how much more top heavy is the 1025r? than the x738?
thanks
The FEL is one of those things that once you have one and start using it, you will find it is hard to give up. You could do a CTC FEL on the X738 but it is no where as capable as a 1025R with the OEM FEL. Really it comes down to what you want to do with it. Doing side jobs of tilling can quickly turn into a little more where a FEL would help. Doing mulch in the spring to leveling out a yard.

If all you were ever going to do is mow and tiller work a X738 is fine, I would consider a X739 personally if you have trees 4ws is better. It is just that I think you are going to run into turning down more side jobs without a FEL and depending on how much you are willing to do side jobs, you may find it will quickly pay for the larger machine and FEL.

When you say you have a ranger with front plow. I don't have one and have never used one. Is that going to be like an ATV plow? I ask because I tried that. ATV plow so I could leave the blower on my X585. That was a huge mistake. It isn't hard to go back and forth between the blade and blower being it is shaft drive. I did own both but when comparing the plowing job of the ATV with gravity for down pressure vs the hydraulic down pressure it was night and day. You mentioned wanting to get a blower at some point. I assume that is for the X738/1025R. Well the blower is the most expensive part and already gets you the quick hitch. I want to say if you have the quick hitch it is only another $500-600 or so for the blade and then add hydraulic pivot cylinder. If the Ranger has hydraulics on the plow then it might be a wash but if it works off a front winch like my ATV plow they suck compared to other options. Granted better than shoveling but just barely.

As far as CG, I don't think you would notice that much of a difference. Fluid fill the tires on a 1025R and don't try and mow with the FEL on. You will be fine unless on some crazy steep ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ive always had a loader on a tractor since i was a kid sold my 4720 with loader when i moved here so i have gone without for a few years i just dont want to have apiece of equipment sit around not getting used more than a few hours a year and make payments on it(tractor i owe a little on yet x738 paid for 2015 model) id rather combine right now and payment owed should be less than current
for the ranger it is elc hyd heavy duty blade a buddy has one and cleans a lot of driveways with it. it it jsut so must faster roading it than the tractor
 

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I was a in similar boat as you. I moved to a 1.5 acre lot that has some landscaping to do. And while I haven't actually used it much yet, I found a used 1026r with the 60" drive over deck and I'm going that route. If you're going new, isn't a x738 the same or more once you add 3pt, rear PTO, etc? Seems like a no brainer to me, just get the 1025r and be done with it. But I'm getting my 1026r delivered on Saturday so I'll let you know how it's working out for me :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ive thought about going 1026 but would if buy used wqould like some kind of warranty
 

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I was a in similar boat as you. I moved to a 1.5 acre lot that has some landscaping to do. And while I haven't actually used it much yet, I found a used 1026r with the 60" drive over deck and I'm going that route. If you're going new, isn't a x738 the same or more once you add 3pt, rear PTO, etc? Seems like a no brainer to me, just get the 1025r and be done with it. But I'm getting my 1026r delivered on Saturday so I'll let you know how it's working out for me :D
It depends. Back when you could get the 45 series FEL for the X series, if you equipped a X738 with rear PTO, 3PT and FEL it was cheaper to get a 1026R. I would say if you were looking at both machines without a FEL they are probably still really close in price. I would never buy a 1 series without a FEL though. Not only do I use the heck out of a FEL, resale would be tough without one on a 1 series.
 

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A church next to where I lived had a seriously hilly backyard. Pastor mowed it with an X something, said he never felt unsafe. I think my 1025R is a bit tippy; I think I'd only go up and down on that property and might have trouble turning at the top or bottom. Lots of topics here on that subject, and I'm finally good with mowing my own property in the easiest way (kept the green side up!). So, don't cut with the loader or 3pt. stuff on, ROPS up and belt on, loaded tires help a lot (I have fluid filled) and spacers on the rear if you think you need them ($$$). 4WD also helps a lot in places, but it sucks to turn and will chew up your yard over time.
 

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Finally got my tractor "delivered" and mowed today. I freaking love that 1026r. Hauls ass, cuts well. And I couldn't believe how great the turning radius is.
 

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Isn’t a X738 a gas engine. The 1 series is diesel. Big difference in weight and capability in base form. Yes you can “build up” the X738 but cost soon exceeds the 1 series. The x748 is diesel if I’m not mistaken. Front loader capability is essentially absent on the x738 compared to the 1023/1025.
 

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I was briefly faced with that question...700 series vs 1 series but quickly felt that I got a lot more equipment for proportionately less money with the SCUT. Additionally, I perceive that the resale value of a 1 series would be potentially better, meaning I'd be recouping more of my expense that with the smaller tractor.
 

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The x738 is a gas Kawasaki engine and the 1025r is obviously the Yanmar diesel.

By time you equip and X738 with the 3 point hitch and the rear PTO, you are knocking on the same price range. If you were spending a similar amount of money and your choice was a x738 or a 1025r, definately go with the 1025r for the FEL capacity and capabilities. Plus the diesel is more powerful has more useful torque and uses less fuel. It also will last longer and is likely to be able to run double the hours of the Kawasaki engine before needing an overhaul or replacement.

An X758 and a 1025R would be a closer comparison.

Having owned gas and diesel, Garden tractor and SCUT I would ask what your top 3 tasks are going to be and what percentage of the time. If your answer is mowing 75% and 25% tilling and side jobs, as you described them, hands down get the 1025R.

If you weren't tilling and didn't have plans for a 3 point or FEL, then I would suggest a dedicated commercial zero turn mower.

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When you mention "side jobs", if you mean doing things for people for a little bit of mad money or to even pay for the machine and implements, you definitely want the 1025R with the front end loader.

Once your side job prospects figure out just how handy you are and how versatile the front end loader and attachments truly are, you will likely be as busy as you want, if you are good at getting the message out. In the last week, here are "side jobs" which I performed for people with my 1025r and various implements;

1. Removed landscape beds and moved the dirt and filled in low areas of the lawn. Involved over 12 yards of top soil.

2. Staged 10 yards of mulch for landscapers at a neighbors. It saved them 6 hours of labor and took me 1 hour to do. My help allowed them to pocket double in profit what it cost them to pay me so they were thrilled. They were working on a bid for this job, plus they were able to complete another job in the time they had scheduled and would have spent moving mulch on this project.

3. Cleaned up limbs for a neighbor who wanted to trim his trees, but not deal with all the limbs and clean up. One hour of time, hauled the equivalent of 6 pick up truck loads of limbs to the brush / burn pile on my property.

4. Another neighbor a couple of houses down was cleaning up neglected landscaping. He hired 3 guys to trim bushes and pull weeds and edge the landscape beds, the driveway and sidewalk. I used the FEL pallet box I built where I could stage the box where they were working and as they trimmed bushes and pulled weeds, they threw the debris in the pallet box. As it was getting full or they needed it relocated, they would send me a text and I would drive over and pick up the box and haul and empty it in a brush / burn pile about 600 feet from the work site. Total time spent was 2 hours. It saved them more than 2 hours of labor for each of the 3 guys, plus they didn't have to haul all of the debris off site and dispose of it.

5. Mowed 5 acres with rear Frontier RC2048 mower. Took 3 hours.

6. I have a 3 hour per month mowing contract for a homeowners association. I mow 90 minutes every two weeks.

Those are the side jobs with my tractor. They vary in frequency and size, but I usually have at least one per week on average throughout the year (I figure 52 side projects per calendar year). This past week there were 6 and this week, I have two tomorrow. Some weeks I might only have one. The goal is one per week and YTD in 2019, I have completed 49 projects and we are on week 32 right now.

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How to charge, what to charge, etc. etc. is another discussion for another thread. As far as the machine goes, the 1 series offers more versatility for a variety of tasks. But also understand that its not the best for some of those tasks and plan accordingly.

I am not going to get into the specifics of what you should charge nor will I disclose how much I charge for the various things listed above because when I have provided those details in the past, for some unknown reason, it seemed to rankle a member and resulted in the thread really getting tense for awhile. I never did understand why it was an issue and resulted in the hostility which it did. I was proud that many GTT members were quick to condemn the nastiness and seek to put an end to it, while being supportive about the content of the thread.

My best advice is to use the regional cost for renting comparable equipment, including the machine, the implement, fuel charges, hourly machine use amounts and excess per hour, as well as equipment delivery charges, etc. Then, on top of that, you need to add compensation for yourself and provide a reserve to replace the machine in the future. If you want, we can get into these in more details in another thread. Just let me know when you are ready for that discussion.

You can make this work and very well, if you carefully plan and handle this correctly. It's not for everyone, but it can dramatically change your total cost of ownership and the financial results associated with it. Just remember, it's a bad deal for everyone if no one profits.
 
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