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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
So my FEL works just fine, and my deck up/down. But I connected my 3PH for the first time ever, tractor is almost 3 and never used the 3PH.

When I go to use the 3PH it is stuck in the up position. I’ve opened and closed the relief valve in the front left to see if that was the issue. On using the levers you can see the 3PH slightly attempt to move, but it wont.

Now I’ve tried to move the threaded T shaped bolt on the left side, used penetrating oil, and I can’t for the life of me budge that threaded bolt. That is if in fact that is the issue here.....

How the hell do you move yours? And is that the issue or is there any other suggestions?
Thanks
 

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With the diverter valve by the hose connections turned (one way or the other) you should notice the 3pt move a little bit. Even with the T shaped lower limit turned all the way up I get a little movement out of the 3pt. You want to get this movement first then make sure it is up all the way before trying to turn the T shaped lower limit adjustment. If you try and adjust the lower limit on the 3pt while it is down there will be more resistance making your job harder.

You can modify a cheap socket like mentioned above or there are commercially made sockets for adjusting stabilizer jacks for RVs.

https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Power-Wing-Nut-Driver/dp/B07PLDMPDY
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Excellent! I ordered that from Amazon. So let’s see how that goes.

I was trying to adjust it with weight on it. So maybe I’ll try adjust with only the 3PH on it
Did yours move pretty easily with using the drill and socket approach or is it still impossible to move after it was stuck one time?

Outside of adjusting that threaded T bolt, is there anything else it could be?

I can never remember which way the diverter valve goes, does it control front and mid versus rear and mid? Looks like the mid/mower will go up and down regardless.
 

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Excellent! I ordered that from Amazon. So let’s see how that goes.

I was trying to adjust it with weight on it. So maybe I’ll try adjust with only the 3PH on it
Did yours move pretty easily with using the drill and socket approach or is it still impossible to move after it was stuck one time?

Outside of adjusting that threaded T bolt, is there anything else it could be?

I can never remember which way the diverter valve goes, does it control front and mid versus rear and mid? Looks like the mid/mower will go up and down regardless.
You can try and take the ballast off but what I mean is just be sure the 3pt arms are up and not sitting on the lower limit stop. The reason I say this is that there isn't any down pressure on 3pt, just gravity. So if the arms were down but stopped by the weight of the 3pt arms (even worse with ballast) it will make it a lot harder to turn that threaded rod. If the 3pt is up all the way, then it should turn easily by fingers. That said if it has been sitting for years then penetrating oil should help. You mentioned you already applied some so keep applying.

I am the same way with the diverter valve. I can't remember which way to turn it. Same goes for the 3pt lower limit as well.

The 3pt and the mower deck both operate off the same hydraulic cylinder and off the same hydraulic control. So that same lever will raise/lower 3pt, raise/lower mower deck, as well as most likely dump/curl FEL, tilt front blade or turn the chute on the snow blower. As I have mentioned in other posts this is the one thing I dislike the most about the X Series. Yes, there are work arounds like adjusting the lower limit for the 3pt and mower deck as well as the diverter valve but a true H3 would be much better. The diverter valve is really a bandaid to try and make a H2 tractor a little better and is cheaper to build than a true H3. I have considered a conversion but I am better off moving up in size for other reasons. Anyhow back to your question on the diverter. Even with the flow shut off to the rear, those things will still move. The reason for the diverter valve is to really just put restriction on the hydraulic flow to the back cylinder when you are not using it. We suspect it isn't a full shut off to keep things moving a bit so they don't seize up. Where that restriction helps is when doing work with front attachments. For instance with the valve open if plowing heavy snow the blade won't be able to hold the angle very well. It will slowly start to pivot. I haven't noticed any difference with the diverter valve setting with the blower but that is only to pivot the chute so the hydraulics don't have much work to do in order to hold the position. With the FEL the biggest thing I notice is the dump/curl is a bit more responsive with the diverter closed.

As far as other things stopping it from moving. If your mower deck is going up and down, then the cylinder is. There is just something that is stuck and if you can't turn that lower limit T bar thing, that is where you want to start. Once you can turn that, if it still doesn't move then maybe some of the linkages but get the limit adjust moving first. Also remember you have to turn it a lot before you see much range of movement on the 3pt. It is there not only to lock it in the up position but also to do things like set your depth for a tiller or maybe a ripper.
 

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Geesh! What is it with these 3 points! That's like my 2520 won't drop!:unknown:
 

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Geesh! What is it with these 3 points! That's like my 2520 won't drop!:unknown:
Like I mentioned the hydraulics don't put down pressure on them to force them down. It is all gravity. If you don't use it they corrode and will get stuck.

Kind of like Physical Therapy. When you get hurt, unless you go through PT and get that joint moving, it will never have a chance of getting back to where it was.
 

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Oh and maybe I should define a term that I kept throwing around earlier. H2 vs H3. As not everyone may know what I am talking about.

This is a carry over from the old John Deere 140 machines. Maybe it predates them but that is where I saw it a lot. I doubt it is a John Deere thing but more a tractor term.

H1 is 1 hydraulic lever and 2 couplers which would run 1 hydraulic cylinder or set of cylinders.

H2 is 2 hydraulic levers and 4 couplers which would run 2 hydraulic cylinders or sets of cylinders.

H3 is 3 hydraulic levers and sometimes 6 couplers that would run 3 hydraulic cylinders or sets of cylinders.

By sets of cylinders I am referring to something like a FEL that has a two cylinders working together for the boom arms and many times two more working together for dump/curl.

These circuits or the valves that control them that make it a H1, H2 or H3 are normally called SCV (Selective Control Valves)

Where I have seen people do H3 conversions to the X-Series machines they will do what makes sense to their needs. The one I like the most is add a joystick to where the cup holder is in the fender. Use that to control the original two hydraulic loops for instance on a FEL, front blade or snow blower. FELs are much easier to control with a joystick rather than the two levers like we have on the X Series. Then take one of those old levers and use that to control the new 3rd circuit which controls the mower deck and 3pt. Or use an electronic second fuction diverter valve like people with bigger machines do for the grapples. Then do everything through the joystick. Not true H3 but still better. That eliminates the knob style diverter valve that doesn't really shut off the other hydraulics and isn't as easy to use. It still doesn't fully separate mower deck from 3pt but I don't mow with my tractor anyhow. Ultimately I figure doing that much haking on a machine that already has 1200 hrs is a bit much. There is plenty of life left but it would make it hard to sell. Ultimately I run into limitations with the FEL on the X where I could justify a bigger machine. So that makes more sense to me.

Here is an example of what I am talking about where a guy made a 2012 X748 (H2) into an H5... :good2:

2012 X748 Project - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
 

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Grinding a notch in a socket is one way to adjust the stop. Another is to remove the roll pin from the threaded rod, install a castle nut...with the slot in towards the tractor. Turn nut until the roll pin just goes in, install roll pin and use a socket...either on a drill motor, ratchet, whatever...to make adjustments. Bob
 

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Did yours move pretty easily with using the drill and socket approach or is it still impossible to move after it was stuck one time?
It should move easily with your fingers with no weight on the 3pt, I use the socket and drill just to speed up the process and to save my fingers. Mines never been stuck so can't comment on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
With the diverter valve by the hose connections turned (one way or the other) you should notice the 3pt move a little bit. Even with the T shaped lower limit turned all the way up I get a little movement out of the 3pt. You want to get this movement first then make sure it is up all the way before trying to turn the T shaped lower limit adjustment. If you try and adjust the lower limit on the 3pt while it is down there will be more resistance making your job harder.

You can modify a cheap socket like mentioned above or there are commercially made sockets for adjusting stabilizer jacks for RVs.

https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Power-Wing-Nut-Driver/dp/B07PLDMPDY
I got this nut from Amazon today but it is too small. 12mm

Won’t fit past the end of the bolt
 

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I got this nut from Amazon today but it is too small. 12mm

Won’t fit past the end of the bolt
hmm doesn't fit over the threaded rod part?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got this nut from Amazon today but it is too small. 12mm

Won’t fit past the end of the bolt
hmm doesn't fit over the threaded rod part?
It would probably fit over the T portion but the problem is the end of that threaded bolt is too fat to fit into the wing socket
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Any other wrenches or anything that you can suggest? This part would have been perfect in the right size
I just measured and the 5/8 just fits over the thread
 

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Any other wrenches or anything that you can suggest? This part would have been perfect in the right size
I just measured and the 5/8 just fits over the thread
That's why I made my own. I used an old socket that would fit over the threaded rod and then cut the slots in it with an angle grinder which only took a couple minutes. If you don't have an angle grinder that might not be a good option although it could probable be done with a hack saw or a round file.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got a friend to modify a 5/8 driver. If anyone else is seeing this post don’t get the one in the Amazon link.

Will repost if this works
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey guys

Before I adjust or try to adjust this thing do I need to do anything like have the 3PH in the up position or down position or anything like that?

Basically if the deck is going up then the 3PH should also be up?
 

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You have to think in terms of what you'll be doing with attachments.

If your using a front blade you'll want to raise the 3pt and deck if still on. Once raised turn the deck height knob to it's highest position, and while raised to it's highest position turn the 3pt limit rod IN. No need to tighten it, just turn it in until it stops turning. Now both the 3pt and deck will be held in the up position while you work the front blade, grapple, whatever.

Also remember to close the cutoff valve if you have one.

If you want to use the 3pt hitch, then remove the front blade or whatever, and using the hydraulics raise the 3pt and deck to it's highest position. Back out the limit rod to where you want the 3pt to drop. Half way, all the way, whatever. Do this while the 3pt is in the full up position and you should be able to adjust the limit stop by hand.

Also remember to OPEN the cutoff valve.

If you want to mow then raise the 3pt and adjust the limit rod, all the way in, so that the hitch will be held in the up position and the deck raised or lowered as needed.

The key to turning the limit stop is to make sure the 3pt is up as far as it can go and not putting pressure on the stop.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
So, the modified driver fits perfectly and I had to turn it with a wrench. I am now getting some movement

However, is there something wrong here? The threaded bolt doesn’t stay Center, and the T portion is such that it can’t turn because the sides are in contact with it when you turn it?

Are the T ends too long? Should I cut them to allow it to turn? It’s simply impeded as it is

See the photos

Also, no matter what way I turn the diverter valve the 3 point will go slightly up or down so I’ve no idea which end it should be turned towards. I have no 3PH on or weight on it right now
 

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Try turning the rod so the keeper pin doesn't hit the side plates. They try moving the rock shaft up or down with the hydraulics to see if that pin will find some clear air.

The end of my adjuster bolt sits well clear of where yours is hitting. My stop is also backed all the way out for full range of motion on my 3PH.
 

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