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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys,
Need some help!

So I got my CTC loader. I am not mechanical on Deere stuff, but I’m hoping for some help here. I found a great thread on the x748 but removing the seat/fender is different and that’s where I’m currently stuck and need your help. I have to get the seat/fender off to access the THRV and shim area.

First off I tested the existing factory hydraulic pressure, it’s surprisingly at 1100 as-is, so first off, should I still shim or just accept that 1100?
I’m doing the THRV and freewheeled anyways and it’s right there.

Heres the bit I need help:
I don’t know whether I can remove the fender with seat attached or if I first have to undo the seat via those black nuts, then undo the fender under the wheel arches (2 per side), obviously I’d rather keep it attached. How do I do it?
I dont want to jump in and not be able to align things later....

Do I just undo the 2 fender bolts either side of the wheel arch? See pics marked them with arrows

Or do I also have to remove the seat too with the black nuts in the pic? Any precautions or is it non punishing later
 

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Can't help you with the rear deck other than to suggest you probably do need to remove the seat. If nothing else, it will make things easier to handle.

As for pressure, if you add about 0.6mm shim I think that ought to put you close to 1300 psi which is about where you want to be.

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Shouldn't have to remove the seat unless the bolts on top are under the seat adjuster slide. There might be a couple underneath in the back. You'll have to take the light bulb harness out of the lenses in the back too.
 

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As for the PSI. I guess it is up to you on your comfort level. At 1100PSI you are not going to be looking at a big adjustment. If you plan on lifting a lot of heavy stuff, then maybe consider it. Heavy stuff being full buckets of dirt/cement/rock. I have been doing that a lot more lately but that is just because I am in the middle of construction. I would say this. You are taking the fender off. So should you opt to go back in later to shim it, you will have to repeat these steps. As they say the second time is always easier. The first time is your learning curve. So, maybe leave it for now and see how well the FEL works for you as is unless as you take the fender off you realize you never want to do this again. If that is the case, then shim it. As I said, I ran mine for well over a year with it unshimmed. I wasn't happy with it but I also had much lower pressure than you are getting. I think I am at 1250 right now (look in my signature below).

As for the fenders, I have a X585 but they haven't changed a lot between that and the X7xx when they did the series number changes.

For the seat, I have a cotter pin that secures the on the pivot point where you can flip the seat forward. So for me the seat comes off by removing the cotter pin, pulling the pivot pin which is like taking the pin out of a door hinge. If you have a suspension seat it might be different as your set may not flip forward the same way. Once I have my seat out of the way I still need to remove the track that is slides on. I think the process is like the same or with suspension if you can't get the seat out of the way then the process is the same it is just a little heavier as the seat is still there in your way. Slide your seat all the way forward on the adjustment track. You should see two small bolts through the track going down into the tractor. They are probably something small like an 8mm or so. Remove the bolt from each side. Then slide the seat all the way back on the track. There are another two bolts in the front of the track like the back. Once removed (and the seat switch disconnected) the entire seat (if still attached), suspension along with the track that the seat slides on should come off.

You found the 2 bolts in the wheel well (I have 4 of them) in your photo. You mentioned there are two bolts in the wheel arch. Look again. I have 2 on each side maybe you just have one on each side. They might be a 10 mm. The other things that have to come off on mine is the 4wd lever on the right side where the cup holder is. I don't remember the specs on the Z758 but if you don't have this skip that. If you do the orange top comes off the 4wd lever and there is a nut in there. The final gotcha part is a bolt on the left side of the machine when you are sitting on it. I am pretty sure this is on the X7xx machines. It is under the fender and is the bolt that also secures the left grab handle on the fender. It is the rear of the two mounting points for the grab handle near the neck for the fuel tank. Again, under the fender. I don't recall the size. 12mm or 14mm if I were to guess. The bolt secures a L shaped bracket that hooks under the fuel tank which is why it needs to come off. Feel around or use an inspection mirror/bore scope to make sure it is there on the X7xx. I have mentioned it to other owners in the past and they haven't reported back that it isn't there. It is of course easier to get this out with the left rear tire off but I don't bother with that. You can get it out easy enough with the right size socket -> Universal joint -> 6" or so extension.

Let me know if you run into any other issues.

Another tip is when taking stuff like this apart and you can't quite see where all the parts are, go to the John Deere website and navigate to the parts lookup site. They have exploded views of everything.

Lawn Mower Parts | John Deere US



Once this is all removed, you will want to remove the light bulbs from the light sockets. Just reach up behind the housing and give them a 1/4 turn and they should come out. Then lift up on the back of the rear fender and it should come off.

I have had my X585 stripped down a few times.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
So so far....
Ive removed the 2 bolts that are either side of the wheel on the front side of the wheel arch. They 2+2 are both off.
I also removed one under the left handle, its L shaped and under the fuel tank.

I disconnected the seat switch.

With that all done I tried to remove the rear fender and its still locked in place. So next I tried to disconnect the seat assembly where the rail track bolts into the top of the fender, its held in by 2 front and 2 rear allen key type bolts. I just took the rear two off, and I am taking a break right now....

I havent disconnected the lights yet
 

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You just have to remove the two back Allen bolts from the seat bracket (and everything else you have done) and it will lift right off. Get those two bolts and you’ll have it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have everything out of the way now and finally at the THRV install, except mine is on really tight.
The other post I found on this just said his came off easily so nothing more was said.

How do you get this off? Wrench on the top half or remove by pulling out????

I relieved the hydraulic pressure too
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is how it looks for me, I can’t fit a socket on it because there’s not enough room, so I may have to remove that first, shim it and leave it out to get enough room to remove the valve and install the THRV

Any advice?.....very little room to get a socket in between them...I don’t know what people used to get these out

See pic
 

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They are threaded in. So wrench or socket on it and unscrew it.

I think mine was on tight as well but I had either a big wrench or breaker bar.

There isn't a secret to get it out. No lock pins or anything that will prevent it from unscrewing other than just being tight.
 

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I had to use a wrench with a slight angle in the handle.

An adjustable might not have enough clearance.

12 point sockets generally have thinner walls, but the IRV is angled where I don’t think even that would fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It’s on crazy right

A 1” won’t fit it
A 27mm is just too big
A 1 1/16 fits, I tried it with a break bar long rachet and it just wants to round the f-ing nut

I don’t know why Deere have it in soo tight

Can anyone help
 

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It’s on crazy right

A 1” won’t fit it
A 27mm is just too big
A 1 1/16 fits, I tried it with a break bar long rachet and it just wants to round the f-ing nut

I don’t know why Deere have it in soo tight

Can anyone help
Not that it helps but you could blame Toff Torq more than JD on that part. It was likely shipped to the assembly plant as a complete component.

I don't know that I had this much of a problem getting mine out. I doubt it is rusted or seized in place but maybe try a little penetrating oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’ll try penetrating oil and next step I may have to try the impact gun .....so frustrating dealing with this crap

So much for a ‘took me an hour’ this has taken multiple hours
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Ok.
Impact gun was the only thing that could do it. The one on the left was easy to remove but the one I had to replace with the THRV was unreal tight!!!!!

Anyways I only had to add 1 shim and I’m at 1350 on the hydraulic gauge

I don’t have an option to drop because if I take one off I’m back to where I started at 1100

So 1350 it is, at highest engine RPM unless anyone advises against?????

Next...
The flywheel ....I ordered the replacement flywheel advised..M146148
I don’t think it’s right because the factory one had a tiny hole in it to secure the Cotter pin, this one has no hole in it and from another post the guy had a spring, Ive had no spring, I’m not sure what to do

What should I do and how secure does this thing need to be ???
 

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I’ll say good call on pressure. It’s under the tuff torque max. I don’t really understand the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The new flywheel doesn’t come with a spring or Cotter pin

I put the black plastic part from my old flywheel on the new one, but my version didn’t have a spring it had a Cotter pin, should I drill a hole and modify it to hold a Cotter pin like my original? I’m just afraid of it sliding out
 

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I assume you mean freewheel lever not flywheel. The Flywheel is on the engine and unless you are working on some other project other than this one, you are talking about the freewheeling lever. When you move the lever it pushes down on those tips on the end of the two valves and relieves the pressure so you can push or pull the tractor without damaging the hydrostatic drive. You had to replace the lever because the THRV is an inch or two taller than the original one that is there.

If it were me, I would take it over to the drill press and drill a hole in the lever like the original one. I suspect the spring is just an option to hold the lever in the position for normal operation. I don't think I have a spring. A cotter pin and that plastic cap is what I recall but that was many years ago.

As for the PSI. Your only option is thinner shims. I would go with what you have at the 1350. Max from Tuff Torq is 1500. You are still below that limit so you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
All done!
I ended up drilling a tiny pin hole in the new modified flywheel lever to hold the pre existing Cotter pin in place, worked perfectly

All done with this project, it was incredibly frustrating as nothing much on the forums for the x758 and it is different to the x748 and others
I’ll put together pictures etc when I can
Definitely took me a few hours maybe 3.5-4 but I feel like if doing it again obviously 40mins but this was a first time for me and I’m being realistic

For me on my x758 at least the existing THRV position felt like it was welded in place eventually resorted to the impact airgun
 
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