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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just bought a really nice and clean X758.
Tested everything out while looking at it and everything seemed to check out for a low hour machine (94 hours). This evening I decided to take the deck off and sharpen the blades, grease the tractor, change the engine oil and fuel filter. I did not get an owner's manual with the tractor, so yesterday I ordered a owner's and technical manual. I already realize a made a mistake after I changed the fuel filter and did not know that this tractor had a self bleeding pump (my 1026R has an electric fuel pump that just primes the fuel system after filter change). I tried cold starting it 7-8 times before it would run normal. Hopefully that didn't do an damage.

I Got everything put back together and thought I would find a couple of areas that the grass grows early in the season to test out the deck. Got about 7 minutes into mowing and it just died like it was out of fuel. It would start right back up and run for a 2-3 minutes and die again. Repeated this 4 times before I decided to just put it up for the night.

I think there is likely 3 potential issues:
-Air Lock from not realizing the manual bleed process.
-Electric Lift pump is bad (if it has one?)
-Plugged screen in the fuel tank

My question is: when you turn the key on before you start, can you hear your lift pump? My 1026R you can hear the lift pump going before I even start it. On this X758, I do not hear anything. Another potential solution I have also seen a video on YouTube where an owner of an X740 was having similar issues and it ended up being the pickup screen in his fuel tank was plugged. I tried to listen on the video to hear if the pump was running before he started it and I could not hear anything. Another potential issue might be air in the line after changing the fuel filter. Hope this is not an expensive fix as it would be a bad start to owning what seems like a really great machine.
 

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Not sure of your serial # but found this on JD website
\
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Not sure of your serial # but found this on JD website
\
Thanks for sharing. I never knew that these tractors had a manual fuel pump primer. I’ve changed fuel filters on several Deere diesels over the years (455, 2320, and 1026R) and don’t remember that manual pump primer.
 

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Thanks for sharing. I never knew that these tractors had a manual fuel pump primer. I’ve changed fuel filters on several Deere diesels over the years (455, 2320, and 1026R) and don’t remover that manual pump primer.
Same here ,I looked at 2 different ser # listings and both of them showed primer pump.
 
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You won't hear the FP clicking away. X758's are not the same as the 1026R.
There is a small primer pump lever on the injector pump.
Fuel system should completely bleed out using the lever but....
Don't ever assume that. It should bleed out though after several attempts at starting and running for a few minutes.
If it still won't run right after priming the pump and running it several times....some things to possibly check...
***Did you pre fill the filter and fuel bowl before mounting ?
***Did you test drive the tractor plenty before all this maintenance with no problems?
***Maybe the pickup tube in the tank is starting to plug with diesel snot.
***Maybe the fuel line is pinched under the seat/fender pan.
***Did it sit for a long period before you got it? .....old bad fuel.
Make sure you have plenty of fuel in the tank and try a couple more times running it hoping it's a bleed issue that will clear up.
A couple pics of the fuel primer location and lever....yellow colored lever..
20210324_193759_compress70.jpg
 

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Let me tell you my story. New 758. Changed the fuel filter. Same story as yours. Done everything right, still stumbled and quit. Even took the JD boys a while to figure it out. They went through 3 fuel filter assemblies. It was their design. If the fuel bowl is not put back together perfectly and very tight, it sucks air. That’s what happened with mine anyways.
 

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The tractor starting and quitting following the fuel filter change isn't going to hurt anything.

Very unlikely the fuel pick up in the tank is plugged UNLESS there is obvious algae growth in the tank. Look in the tank with a flashlight and see what the fuel looks like. It should be pretty transparent and nothing floating or growing in there.

If there is anything in organic matter in the tank, you would have seen evidence of the same in the filter you changed. It looks like large bovine snot on the filter, to be honest. (If you have never had a dairy cow sneeze on you with a mouthful of grain, you haven't lived......) If the filter was just "normal dirty", there isn't likely an algae problem in the fuel.

Also very unlikely the fuel line is pinched under the seat as there aren't really reasons to have had the operator platform off the tractor before with such low hours.

I am with the air is still in the system. Either the fuel separator isn't put together correctly and its allowing air to get in the system, or there is an air leak still in the system. It could also be the the air which caused the tractor to quit was the last of the air in the system. The problem could be solved now.

Also, there is a fuel return line on that system which returns fuel to the tank. I would start it up and remove the fuel cap and watch in the tank to see if you see air bubbles coming out of the fuel return line, with an occasional "blurp" in the tank. That's how the system generally purges some of the air in it, depending where the air is in the system.

Check the fuel separator very closely for any signs of fuel dripping or leaking, as it would indicate it wasn't threaded together correctly or the filter isn't fully seated up in the housing, allowing the separator compartment to seal and be air tight.

If you didn't fill it with diesel, you have to assume the fuel is months old or older and it could be of marginal quality. It also could have kerosene in it, which flows well, but burns with less power, etc. I would treat the diesel fuel with a dose of Hot Shot Diesel Treatment.

If everything looks good, no drips, no leaks, etc. I would start the tractor and let it run at about mid throttle for half an hour or longer and then try mowing with it. The problem could already be solved with that last episode you had...........
 

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I had a similar situation after changing the fuel filter on my x758. Mine was just very hard to start and keep running. Actually have had this happen several times with different filter changes. Priming the system with the small lever on the pump is important and can resolve issues. But if that is not helping you may want to take the filter cannister back apart and make sure you didn't lose the O-ring that seals it to the base. I did that once. Zero idea where it went. Never found the old one. But it kept leaking around the mount and I finally realized the O-ring was missing. If yours is missing it may be sucking enough air to not run well.

For a modern piece of equipment it is weird how challenging fuel filter maintenance can be on this model.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The tractor starting and quitting following the fuel filter change isn't going to hurt anything.

Very unlikely the fuel pick up in the tank is plugged UNLESS there is obvious algae growth in the tank. Look in the tank with a flashlight and see what the fuel looks like. It should be pretty transparent and nothing floating or growing in there.

If there is anything in organic matter in the tank, you would have seen evidence of the same in the filter you changed. It looks like large bovine snot on the filter, to be honest. (If you have never had a dairy cow sneeze on you with a mouthful of grain, you haven't lived......) If the filter was just "normal dirty", there isn't likely an algae problem in the fuel.

Also very unlikely the fuel line is pinched under the seat as there aren't really reasons to have had the operator platform off the tractor before with such low hours.

I am with the air is still in the system. Either the fuel separator isn't put together correctly and its allowing air to get in the system, or there is an air leak still in the system. It could also be the the air which caused the tractor to quit was the last of the air in the system. The problem could be solved now.

Also, there is a fuel return line on that system which returns fuel to the tank. I would start it up and remove the fuel cap and watch in the tank to see if you see air bubbles coming out of the fuel return line, with an occasional "blurp" in the tank. That's how the system generally purges some of the air in it, depending where the air is in the system.

Check the fuel separator very closely for any signs of fuel dripping or leaking, as it would indicate it wasn't threaded together correctly or the filter isn't fully seated up in the housing, allowing the separator compartment to seal and be air tight.

If you didn't fill it with diesel, you have to assume the fuel is months old or older and it could be of marginal quality. It also could have kerosene in it, which flows well, but burns with less power, etc. I would treat the diesel fuel with a dose of Hot Shot Diesel Treatment.

If everything looks good, no drips, no leaks, etc. I would start the tractor and let it run at about mid throttle for half an hour or longer and then try mowing with it. The problem could already be solved with that last episode you had...........
I must have "lived" because my degree is in Dairy nutrition and worked for Land O' Lakes for about 5.5 years as a dairy nutritionist. Got plenty of those cow sneezes and got really good at telling if too much corn was passing through, lol.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all of the ideas. I am going to take it the fuel filter apart and start with the O-Ring. I don't remember seeing one, but it doesn't mean it wasn't on there. I specifically remember the red "Float" and spring.

780282
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I think we got it going. We took the fuel filter back off to see if there was an O-Ring and it there was. Decided to put a little more force in tightening this time as to make sure no air was getting in. I also pulled the rear fender and checked to see if the the mesh screen in the fuel tank had any "diesel snot". There was some, but it didn't seem like a large amount. Cleaned it up and put the fender back on. Turned the key and realized we didn't hook up the fuel tank gauge.....so took it all apart again (about 1/2 the time as the 1st go round). Primed the pump to remove all the air in the bowl and it started up. Ran it for about 10 minutes full throttle with the mower deck on and no stalling. Got my fingers crossed that this takes care of the issue.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!
 

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Stupid me ran it out of fuel late last year and had a B**** of a time getting fuel back in filter/bowl. Being brand new to this unit tho had it for a year, never had to do a thing to fuel side of it. So watched You Tube vid on how to change filter cuz I couldn't locate the manual right away. I recall priming things forever and really do not remember what the heck I did to finally get fuel filter to fill, but did get it and no probs since. PITA !!! My old 332, just open bleed nut, turn key on, fuel filled filter/ran out bleed nut, key off, nut tightened and off to the races. Will be changing all fluids/filters this fall except anti-freeze so round 2.
 

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It is amazing how difficult it is to get the air out of the system after a fuel filter change. I don’t know if it’s the location of the filter in relation to the injection pump or what it is. The hood comes off these tractors very easily and does make servicing much easier.
 

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Some people install the new fuel filter assembly completely full of fuel...
Then leave ( bowl) it just barely tightened so as to be able the manually pump the primer lever and force any air out of the filter at the o-ring.
This way most any and all air is bled out of the system before starting.
Be sure to tighten the filter fully after bleeding.
 
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