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Discussion Starter #1
First and foremost, am I gonna get covered in all my transaxle oil when I spin the filter off to change it? Also, any oil you'd all suggest for the rear end/hydraulic system other than the JDM 20 oil listed at john deere? I'm thinking of doing a jacket water heater if ones available, so I may do a coolant change too. Anyone got a good heater kit to point me towards? As well as any other "beware of's" or anything? Tractor only has 75 hours on it.
 

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First and foremost, am I gonna get covered in all my transaxle oil when I spin the filter off to change it? Also, any oil you'd all suggest for the rear end/hydraulic system other than the JDM 20 oil listed at john deere? I'm thinking of doing a jacket water heater if ones available, so I may do a coolant change too. Anyone got a good heater kit to point me towards? As well as any other "beware of's" or anything? Tractor only has 75 hours on it.
I know nothing about the 758 but I'm sure it will have a drain plug to drain the oil before you spin the filter off. Tractor Supply will sell oil equivalent to JD 20 but may not have the same additives in it to make it equivalent to JD20C or JD20D etc. I would think it would be the same weight tho. I don't know if the additives are that important or not and don't know how to find out what additives are in the JD oil. Maybe someone with knowledge of hydraulic oil will give us some advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I know there's a plug to drain it, but I usually do hydraulic oil once every 2 or 3 filter changes, so this time I'd like to change just the filter. And I was hoping I wouldn't have to lose 2 gallons of oil at probably $50 this first time around.
 

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Yeah I know there's a plug to drain it, but I usually do hydraulic oil once every 2 or 3 filter changes, so this time I'd like to change just the filter. And I was hoping I wouldn't have to lose 2 gallons of oil at probably $50 this first time around.
if you drain it in a clean container you can reuse it. Worth going out and buying a new catch pan just for this use. I have 3 oil drain pans, dirty oil, reusable hydraulic oil and antifreeze.
 

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Yeah I know there's a plug to drain it, but I usually do hydraulic oil once every 2 or 3 filter changes, so this time I'd like to change just the filter. And I was hoping I wouldn't have to lose 2 gallons of oil at probably $50 this first time around.
The manual states that the X758 should have had the hydraulic oil and filter first changed at 50 hours and then every 200 hours after that. If the machine is still under warranty the best advice I could give would be to use the JD recommended fluids. That way if you have any problems you will be entitled to the proper love from the dealer.

As for changing the filter without draining the oil, it has been done before on various models of tractors. You are going to lose some oil when you remove the filter. Simply put a CLEAN drain pan under the filter to catch what oil runs out and then pour it back in after changing the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The manual states that the X758 should have had the hydraulic oil and filter first changed at 50 hours and then every 200 hours after that. If the machine is still under warranty the best advice I could give would be to use the JD recommended fluids. That way if you have any problems you will be entitled to the proper love from the dealer.

As for changing the filter without draining the oil, it has been done before on various models of tractors. You are going to lose some oil when you remove the filter. Simply put a CLEAN drain pan under the filter to catch what oil runs out and then pour it back in after changing the filter.
Yeah I don't mind a little spillage of what's in the filter and oil galleries in the axle housing, and I wouldn't reuse what does come out, I'd just top off the 1/2 quart or whatever. Just wondered if I was going to lose the whole 2 gallons of oil once the filter is off or not. Come to think of it, I may have the majority of a 5 gallon bucket of JD hydraulic oil around from a 310E backhoe service I did a while back, maybe I'll just change the fluid anyway since the oil is already bought.
 

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Hiya,

I just read this thread, your worried about the cost of 2 gallons of hydraulic fluid for your $12K+ garden tractor? I wouldn't worry about the 50 bucks, change the fluid with the right type. The used stuff is full of metal particles the filter doesn't catch and those are the ones that really wear out the precision parts that cost a lot to replace down the road. Once you drain the fluid, you may be able to see the metallic sheen to it in the pan.

I was told by a very smart man a long time ago that the least expensive parts of any engine or transmission are the oil and filter, change them often and regularly then you won't have to replace the costly stuff.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What can I say, I'm cheap sometimes. And I know all about this stuff, I've been a heavy equipment mechanic for a while now. If I can see a metal sheen in my rear end oil, $50 in fluid is gonna be the least of my worries. I may as well change it, the stuff I have is the right oil so it's already bought and paid for. I just know how these manufacturers work with their intervals for service. They're geared toward making money at the shop more than what's absolutely necessary for the machine. Anything that's big enough to cause problems in that system will be caught by the filter, especially considering oil filters become more efficient as they "fill up" with fine particles.
 

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Any filter becomes more efficient as they fill up, but they cause a parasitic loss and cause the bypass valve to open up more often as the differential pressure becomes higher. Since there's no gauge to show filter restriction or diff. pressure, changing the oil and filter on a regular basis is cheap and easy maintenance IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, just got done with the service. Not a bad one to do, took about 3 hours. I did engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter, hydraulic/trans filter, and front and rear axle oils. One thing I'm going to do next time is invest in a short, skinny, small funnel or a flexible one of particular size. Just my luck, even with my service truck here and 10 different funnels on it, I still couldn't find one that was ideal to use. The exhaust pipe is about right over top the front axle fill plug and I had to use a 2 foot long, skinny tranny funnel to fit in the hole completely and get by the exhaust. I'm not doing it again out of a 5 gallon bucket, either. It'll be a lot easier to buy gallon jugs of oil or pour from the bucket into gallon jugs before putting the oil in the tractor. Also, if anyone plans on doing just a hydraulic filter change and not the oil, you will lose all the oil when the filter is pulled. But if you keep the dipstick installed, it chugs out almost slow enough you may be able to do a quick filter swap and only lose a quart or so. Now I gotta start on my winter projects, building a rack for the front or back of the tractor to cart my chainsaw and small gas can and a cooler around.
 

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Did you have to remove the front tires to drain or fill the front-transaxle? That's what the manual says but it looks like the front-transaxle could be drained with the tires on.
 

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Where in WNY are you located.
 

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Did you have to remove the front tires to drain or fill the front-transaxle? That's what the manual says but it looks like the front-transaxle could be drained with the tires on.
I think you really do. I'm not sure you can get to all the fill/vent/drain plugs with the tires on.

Rob
 

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Did you have to remove the front tires to drain or fill the front-transaxle? That's what the manual says but it looks like the front-transaxle could be drained with the tires on.
Yes, you need to vent and be able refill each side through the vent plugs on top. You can't get to the left vent plug at all with the wheel on. Also if have both the wheels off you can catch the oil from the drain plugs easier and get your funnel in vent holes to refill.
 

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You will definitely save some headaches with easier draining, as mentioned above. It really isn't that much extra work.

Rob
 

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Removed the wheels on the x738 , much easier, faster plus couldn't get to the plug with wheels on tractor.
 

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I don't want to raise the front end very much, right? It looks like the trans fluid won't drain completely if the machine isn't level.
 

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I don't want to raise the front end very much, right? It looks like the trans fluid won't drain completely if the machine isn't level.
Right. You want the tractor either close to normal ride height or just a bit lower in the front in order to drain things out well. I wouldn't go nuts on lowering it, because that might mess with draining the rear transaxle, but don't raise the front more than ride height.

Rob
 

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If you are lucky enough to own 2 floor jacks ,,one one each side of axle after removing the wheels, lower the front end drains out great. After draining then put in the plugs level tractor or close to it and fill .
First time took me close to 3 -4 hrs to do transmission , front axle, and engine oil.
 
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