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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

So I have a 5.5 ft bed pick up truck, and an X758.

I live a couple of miles from my business and there’s times I could use the x758 at home and at the business. I can’t put a decent shed up at the business for reasons to long to explain.

I don’t fancy hooking up a trailer every time I want to just bring the x758 to the business, imagine doing that in the snow etc!

So I found this ramp called LoadAll, you can drive the x758 into the truck bed, holds 1,300 lbs, although they say it can handle a lot more, the x758 is 1050 lbs approx.

I called LoadAll, I explained that the x758 is longer than the 5.5 foot truck bed, they said they can extend the bed part to 96” and not pressure the tailgate

Just wondering, what do you guys think?

https://youtu.be/P5k2JUgMHuQ

There is other videos also, it’s $2800 with delivery.
 

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Hey everyone,

So I have a 5.5 ft bed pick up truck, and an X758.

I live a couple of miles from my business and there’s times I could use the x758 at home and at the business. I can’t put a decent shed up at the business for reasons to long to explain.

I don’t fancy hooking up a trailer every time I want to just bring the x758 to the business, imagine doing that in the snow etc!

So I found this ramp called LoadAll, you can drive the x758 into the truck bed, holds 1,300 lbs, although they say it can handle a lot more, the x758 is 1050 lbs approx.

I called LoadAll, I explained that the x758 is longer than the 5.5 foot truck bed, they said they can extend the bed part to 96” and not pressure the tailgate

Just wondering, what do you guys think?

https://youtu.be/P5k2JUgMHuQ

There is other videos also, it’s $2800 with delivery.

Imagine driving up that ramp in the snow! Makes trailering seem like a piece of cake!

That seems like a very expensive ramp solution. Me, I'd buy a nice small aluminum trailer with low ramp and pocket the change. No pucker factor! Plus, a trailer has many uses, instead of a single-purpose use like that ramp system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yep I had the same opinion of this in the snow, looks slick and slippery or flat shiny surface, they assure me it is not and the rubber digs in....

There are user pics of people using snow mobiles etc going in them

Anyone got one? As ill definitely be using it in winter
 

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I'd go for a small utility trailer.
Easy to move, even in the snow, easier to load/unload, and can be used for so much more than just hauling your tractor.
Plus, it would be cheaper than the ramp.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'd go for a small utility trailer.
Easy to move, even in the snow, easier to load/unload, and can be used for so much more than just hauling your tractor.
Plus, it would be cheaper than the ramp.
I won’t have the storage space and I don’t fancy hooking up in the snow and turning in the lot etc etc it’s just a lot more hassle
 

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Hey everyone,

So I have a 5.5 ft bed pick up truck, and an X758.

I live a couple of miles from my business and there’s times I could use the x758 at home and at the business. I can’t put a decent shed up at the business for reasons to long to explain.

I don’t fancy hooking up a trailer every time I want to just bring the x758 to the business, imagine doing that in the snow etc!

So I found this ramp called LoadAll, you can drive the x758 into the truck bed, holds 1,300 lbs, although they say it can handle a lot more, the x758 is 1050 lbs approx.

I called LoadAll, I explained that the x758 is longer than the 5.5 foot truck bed, they said they can extend the bed part to 96” and not pressure the tailgate

Just wondering, what do you guys think?

https://youtu.be/P5k2JUgMHuQ

There is other videos also, it’s $2800 with delivery.
Haven't Bought them yet But Here is My solution to Not Having to trailer My Garden tractors anymore https://madramps.com/product/mad-ramp/ along with this attachment https://madramps.com/product/mad-ramps-pivot-stops/. But I also Have electric winch to bring the Tractor Up the Ramps Into the Pick Up Bed Because after a friend had a accident Loading One of my Tractors Up ramps even if there connected to the Truck I am not driving into the Truck and they Have a decent storage solution for the Ramps Mad-Mount Mad-Ramps :bigthumb:
 

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Hey everyone,

So I have a 5.5 ft bed pick up truck, and an X758.

I don’t fancy hooking up a trailer every time I want to just bring the x758 to the business, imagine doing that in the snow etc!

So I found this ramp called LoadAll, you can drive the x758 into the truck bed, holds 1,300 lbs, although they say it can handle a lot more, the x758 is 1050 lbs approx.
I suspect that weight is without a mower deck. Since you mentioned transporting the X758 in the snow, will it have a snow plow or snow blower attached?

Just wondering, what do you guys think?

There is other videos also, it’s $2800 with delivery.
How much does the LoadAll itself weigh? How do you get it in and out of the pickup bed?

For that kind of money I recommend a small landscape trailer no question about it. You can get a trailer large enough for the X758 for less than half the price of the LoadAll and it will be much more convenient.

Attaching to a trailer probably takes less time than rigging that carrier. Hooking up a trailer in the snow is no different than attaching to it in the summer.
 

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Like Jay said you have to consider the total weight of the lifter, tractor, ballast weights, mower deck and or attachments. That's starting to add up to a lot of weight for what sounds like a 1500 series pick up or smaller.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Like Jay said you have to consider the total weight of the lifter, tractor, ballast weights, mower deck and or attachments. That's starting to add up to a lot of weight for what sounds like a 1500 series pick up or smaller.
I have a Tundra.

The LoadAll remains built into the truck bed. You don’t install it every time. Once you use it it folds up under the deck/bed
https://youtu.be/zgrQhVTiDoU
 

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I have a Tundra.

The LoadAll remains built into the truck bed. You don’t install it every time. Once you use it it folds up under the deck/bed
https://youtu.be/zgrQhVTiDoU
Exactly you have a 1500 series pickup with a payload capacity of about 1500 pounds. By the time you get that loadall and the tractor with all it's furl and goodies in the truck you will be exceeding the rated payload for your truck.

Sure the truck will be able to drive just fine but it will burn out your rear suspension in very short order. Shocks will wear out quickly and the the springs and bushings will follow behind them.

Carrying the extra 2-300 lb loadall around all the time will hurt your fuel economy.

Just more to consider. Not telling you not to do it.

Personally I have an 8 foot bed on my truck and I have no desire to squeeze my x738 into my truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Exactly you have a 1500 series pickup with a payload capacity of about 1500 pounds. By the time you get that loadall and the tractor with all it's furl and goodies in the truck you will be exceeding the rated payload for your truck.

Sure the truck will be able to drive just fine but it will burn out your rear suspension in very short order. Shocks will wear out quickly and the the springs and bushings will follow behind them.

Carrying the extra 2-300 lb loadall around all the time will hurt your fuel economy.

Just more to consider. Not telling you not to do it.

Personally I have an 8 foot bed on my truck and I have no desire to squeeze my x738 into my truck.[/QUOTE]

That’s good to know thanks for telling me that! I don’t want to damage the truck
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok, since the payload capacity could be near the 1,600 lb Max for the Tundra Platinum

Ehhh if the LoadAll + X758 + Snowblower attachment >> payload capacity....

Then anyone with my situation and a trailer they would recommend?

How long does it take to hook up a trailer and drive the mower on and strap in etc
 

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X758 & Loadall Ramp to load into pick up truck

I’ve seen several snowmobile setups just like that. They work good when dry.

I’ll load a 4 wheeler on an incline like that, but a tractor would be sketchier lacking the ability to ‘gun it’ for a second in a slide.

A small utility trailer like 4x8-5x9 is easy peasy to mount as needed, minimal tongue weight and easy to roll around. Ramp angles are better too.

The strap down time is less then in a pickup bed.

I think I’d be under 10 minutes from out the back door, garage open, tractor running, trailer on, connected, load and tie down if everything was ‘ready’ as in working and not lost.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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Ok, since the payload capacity could be near the 1,600 lb Max for the Tundra Platinum

Ehhh if the LoadAll + X758 + Snowblower attachment >> payload capacity....

Then anyone with my situation and a trailer they would recommend?

How long does it take to hook up a trailer and drive the mower on and strap in etc
If your area is like around here, there are multiple local places that sell landscape trailers. There are lots of them that are inexpensive and built well. Look for round or square tube construction (no angle iron), Dexter axles and a reinforced drop gate. Single axle will be fine.

I have a 5x10 and it takes about 10-15 minutes to hookup, drive the mower on, strap down, check the lights and go.
 

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Here you go.

A ramp and Or a trailer.

Probly cost a small fortune IDK

 

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Hey everyone,

So I have a 5.5 ft bed pick up truck, and an X758.

I live a couple of miles from my business and there’s times I could use the x758 at home and at the business. I can’t put a decent shed up at the business for reasons to long to explain.

I don’t fancy hooking up a trailer every time I want to just bring the x758 to the business, imagine doing that in the snow etc!

So I found this ramp called LoadAll, you can drive the x758 into the truck bed, holds 1,300 lbs, although they say it can handle a lot more, the x758 is 1050 lbs approx.

I called LoadAll, I explained that the x758 is longer than the 5.5 foot truck bed, they said they can extend the bed part to 96” and not pressure the tailgate

Just wondering, what do you guys think?

https://youtu.be/P5k2JUgMHuQ

There is other videos also, it’s $2800 with delivery.
First problem I see is you will never get the x758 with the front quick hitch and the blower on it up that incline, you can't lift the snow blower high enough for the entry angle. The blower might slide along the ramp and the tractor will likely push it up the incline, but its less than ideal.

The second Issue I see is $2800 for pretty much a one trick pony. What else will you need the ramp for and will you use it that often?

I would go with small utlity trailer. Probably 6' x 10' or so. The blower is 54" wide which is 4'6" and a 5' wide trailer will only give you 3" on each side.

They make the small tilt bed trailers so you don't even need a ramp. The trailer in the link is an extremely well made trailer and very easy to load. I would purchase that style trailer before one with a lift gate, etc. If your tractor and blower are longer than 10', get the same trailer 12', 14' 16' long. But that is an outstanding trailer for your needs. The trailer bed slides back and tips up. With the trailer only 6' wide. the tires and wheels are not under the trailer deck, they are on the outside, so the incline is very minimal.

Things I would consider (since you were going to spend $2800 on the ramp) I would buy an aluminum trailer, even if it was a open utlity trailer. The larger the tires, the better the trailer quality (generally). You can get a very nice aluminum trailer for that price range of $2800 in that size range. If you are new to towing a trailer, just go to a large open parking lot and practice backing and turning, etc. Its easy to catch on with.

Use real tie down straps and learn how to properly tie the machine down. If that was mine, I would back the tractor onto the trailer with the snow blower on the rear of the trailer just to keep the load as balanced as possible. You want the tractor centered over the axle as much as possible to keep the load balanced, which is why I would back the tractor onto the trailer. Also, it makes the trailer tongue weight in line with the overall weight, etc which means it will tow better at higher speeds.

Look at the trailer weld quality. It should be very consistent and not look like chicken droppings. The trailer should have LED lights and it will likely have a 4 way plug at that size and weight trailer. ALWAYS run a bolt or lock through the hole in the ball coupling, to keep the ball mount on the tongue from coming off the ball. Also, always cross your trailer safety chains so if the trailer does come unhooked, when the tow vehicle slows, the crossed safety chains will catch the trailer tongue and prevent it from pile driving into the road and tumbling the trailer. Properly crosses safety chains will allow you to safely bring an unhook trailer to a safe stop.

Always hook the safety chains OVER the top of the safety loops on the hitch, not from underneath. You don't want the slack in the safety chains to permit them to come unhooked, which can happen if they are not hooked OVER the safety loops on the hitch.

Look under the trailer at the wiring harness. It should be encased in a covering. If you can see individual wires or if the wires are not running through grommets when going through metal frame rails, you don't want that trailer. Its a sign of cheap and shoddy building. All wires should be in covered harness and using grommets and avoid sharp metal edges with wire covers.

Always make sure that EACH of your tie down straps is weight rated for the total load of the tractor and blower. So in your case, each strap should be able to handle 1,500 pounds per strap. No one ever lost a load because the straps were too good. Here is a good set for your use and the axle strap is very handy for tying the load down...............Tie down from the axle and frame of the machine. Always cross tie the tow down straps so they are pulling against one another. And just because its only 1.7 miles from home, don't get lazy and think you don't need any ties downs. Not securing a load and hurting someone can be a criminal offense in some states. Killing someone from the same thing is a felony and a long time in prison.
 

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I have used a ramp to load my 4 wheeler into and out of my 1500 Chevy for years. No problems. I have also tried to use it to carry my LT 133 to shop for repairs. Every time the JD will bottom out with the deck hitting the ramp where it lays over the tailgate..you just won't have the clearance. It is not a safe method to transport these tractors. Buy a trailer and securely strap it down and arrive safely. Just my opinion.
 
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