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Discussion Starter #1
The x758 I bought last year has 100 hours on it now. All last summer, all winter, and this spring until two days ago it has always started up right away, with very little smoking. Same starting response whether it had run a day ago, an hour ago, or three weeks ago. The last two days though it is having a very different situation happening. At cold start it will crank and crank and spit out thick smoke as it is doing so. After turning over for what seems like quite a while (long enough I've stopped cranking to give the starter a brief rest, maybe 5-7 seconds) then it will fire up and be normal. As soon as it fires the smoke goes away. Subsequent warm starts are fast like it used to be.

Prior to these last two days I've started it up multiple times a week this spring and it has been normal. Though the fuel in it is from a few months back I find it hard to believe that old fuel is an issue that just pops up one day after working fine a few days before. The battery is strong and it cranks fast all the time. Only recent maintenance to it has been to remove the snowblower and install the mower, as well as greasing all lube points.

Any thoughts what it might be?

Thanks,
Rob
 

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How long does the glow plugs cycle,does it seem shorter than it used to be.
 

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Think I would change fuel filter , just a thought do you use any fuel additives especially since fuel is a couple of months old. :dunno:

if no help then guessing a problem with a glow plug either way sounds like it would be under warranty .
 

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I think I would start with fresh fuel and maybe a new fuel filter and see what happens ??
Think I would change fuel filter , just a thought do you use any fuel additives especially since fuel is a couple of months old. :dunno:

if no help then guessing a problem with a glow plug either way sounds like it would be under warranty .
Fuel doesn't go bad in a couple of months,it seems with the poor cold start but easy hot start sounds like glow plug problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I did put some diesel additive that touted its 'stabilization' capabilities in the fuel last winter when I added it because I knew I wouldn't be using the tractor much over winter. I've just burned up another tank for my first mowing so I'll have some fresh fuel in shortly.

I hadn't changed the fuel filter yet since it was only at 100 hours but I looked again and the manual says "or annually" so I can do that.

The indicator light on the cluster may not be on as long as it used to. I guess I didn't pay too much attention. The first time it did this I had turned the key on and left it there a minute as I dealt with something else before I actually cranked it. Today I watched the light and started cranking right when it went out, with identical results. But the light may be on only 3 sec or so instead of 4-5 before?? I don't remember.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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If the glow plug is only on for 2-3 seconds then that's your problem.If under warranty take it to the dealer.Either a bad glow plug or two or the module is bad.If out of warranty you can ohm the glow plugs.Open circuit is a bad plug.My x595 is glow plug circuit on 8-10 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's under warranty. I have a great dealer who will take care of me. It's just that they are an hour away and dragging it up there takes some time & effort. Especially if I have to leave it a day or two so they can test it with full-cold startups.

The closer dealer seems incredibly incompetent. The parts guy has had trouble finding things in their computer system even when I told him exactly what I needed, from the exact model of tractor to look up, or even with an actual JD part number. And then they don't carry it "but we have it in our other store and we could have it in a day or two." So I don't patronize them.

How many seconds is normal for the Yanmar in an x75x to run the glow plug on a cold start in moderate temps (50-60*F)? I really can't remember but I thought mine has only ever stayed on 3-5 seconds max. Way shorter duration than the plugs in my 2520.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Went out to check things. Re-seated all the fuses and relays in the fuse box since it was suggested to me elsewhere that corrosion of the fuse blades may be reducing power to the glow plugs. Turned key on, counted and glow plugs were on 5 seconds. Cranked it as soon as the indicator light went out. Started normally this time. I'll keep monitoring the starts and see if it reverts to bad again. I'm also going to replace the fuel filter since it has been a year. The separator bowl looks clean and water-free, but it's cheap insurance. And some fresh diesel coming...

When I pulled the sealed cover off the fuse box something small fell out. At first I thought it looked like a fuse but it fell so fast. Looked around and found this little plastic piece sitting by a mower spindle. Doesn't look important but I'm not sure what it would have been. Ideas?

Rob
 

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It's under warranty. I have a great dealer who will take care of me. It's just that they are an hour away and dragging it up there takes some time & effort. Especially if I have to leave it a day or two so they can test it with full-cold startups.

The closer dealer seems incredibly incompetent. The parts guy has had trouble finding things in their computer system even when I told him exactly what I needed, from the exact model of tractor to look up, or even with an actual JD part number. And then they don't carry it "but we have it in our other store and we could have it in a day or two." So I don't patronize them.

How many seconds is normal for the Yanmar in an x75x to run the glow plug on a cold start in moderate temps (50-60*F)? I really can't remember but I thought mine has only ever stayed on 3-5 seconds max. Way shorter duration than the plugs in my 2520.

Rob
Sounds like the dealer near me,incompetent.I drive 45-50 minutes to get a dealer who knows his stuff and parts people that go out of there way to help.
Seems no matter the temp the glow plugs run a certain time (mine about 8 sec)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I changed the fuel filter. The old one and the sediment bowl was quite clean so I highly doubt that was an issue but it needed to be done.

I'm really not thrilled with that process though. First, obviously you need something under the bowl to catch fuel that drips out when you remove it. Only thing I had that fit in the 1" gap below the bowl and above the flywheel cover was an old cookie sheet. It worked but it was a bit of a pain to fit it in there. Then, I blindly read the manual's instructions which said to turn the locking ring counter-clockwise. Not thinking it through, I looked down on it and, because I couldn't turn it by hand, used a channel lock pliers to start turning it counter-clockwise. Well, it didn't loosen up. If I would have thought about it first I would have realized it needed to go the other way to loosen. Having the manual say "counter-clockwise" when the are referring to viewing it from below is not exactly clear. I take responsibility since I should have realized it was not right. Anyway, I then got the locking ring off and removed the bowl & filter and cleaned everything. New filter ready, the manual then says "Install new filter on filter head. Position sediment bowl and locking collar." To me, this is a two step process. But no, you can't put the bowl on after putting the filter on the head because there is no room below. So you have to put the filter in the bowl and slide it under the head, then use your fingers to raise the filter up and push it onto the base of the head, then lift the bowl and screw on the locking collar. Not that hard but, again, the manual misleads me.

All that done, I then try to tighten the locking collar by hand, thinking that's probably all it would take. Too snug to get on far by hand so had to use the pliers again. Now how tight do I tighten it? It didn't seem real tight when I started (because I could turn it the wrong way a bit), but I tightened as far as I felt comfortable. Then turned on the valve and primed the pump with the little lever. As soon as I started I see fuel spitting out the top of the collar. So I get the pliers and tighten it further. To the point I thought it was about enough because I didn't want to crack anything. Kept priming. Again. The manual is vague on this. How much to prime? Just a couple strokes of the lever? Or fill the entire bowl? Having no details I decided to fill the bowl. Still seeing a little fuel coming out the threads of the collar. Snugged it up just a bit more and cleaned it up, then tried to start...

It did NOT behave the way the 2520 did after changing its filter. That one did not require any priming and it started right up and ran like a top. The x758 would start, run for a second, die. Repeat. I bet it was 10+ times that it popped off and then died, each time going slightly longer. Finally it stayed running. I watched the collar and sure enough it was still leaking. At this point I figured I had cracked something when I first started turning the wrong way. Damn. So I pulled it all back apart. Dried everything really well. Checked the fit to see if I had something on crooked or wrong. Did not see any sign of a crack anywhere: head, collar, or plastic bowl. Put it all back together and tightened the collar again. This time I cranked on it pretty good because I figured if it wasn't broken then it must need to be tighter. Well, that seemed to work. Primed it again. Started it again. Took maybe 5-6 times of starting/dying this time. Let it run for 5 minutes and watched the collar closely. Looks like I got it now.

Dang, that was way too difficult and stressful for something as easy as what this should be. It was totally unlike the same procedure on the 2520. I'm not thrilled.

Rob
 

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Clean fuel source,clean fuel cans,and clean around the fill cap before filling.Shouldn't have to change the filter that often.
 

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Went out to check things. Re-seated all the fuses and relays in the fuse box since it was suggested to me elsewhere that corrosion of the fuse blades may be reducing power to the glow plugs. Turned key on, counted and glow plugs were on 5 seconds. Cranked it as soon as the indicator light went out. Started normally this time. I'll keep monitoring the starts and see if it reverts to bad again. I'm also going to replace the fuel filter since it has been a year. The separator bowl looks clean and water-free, but it's cheap insurance. And some fresh diesel coming...

When I pulled the sealed cover off the fuse box something small fell out. At first I thought it looked like a fuse but it fell so fast. Looked around and found this little plastic piece sitting by a mower spindle. Doesn't look important but I'm not sure what it would have been. Ideas?

Rob
Looks like a piece for blocking off an unused slot in the fuse box/block.

After you change that filter a few times it will get easier. lol
If not you can always pay someone to do it.

Before your next time. Get your self some disposable rubber gloves. Just make sure that they are the kind that resist chemicals. Your hands will thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Clean fuel source,clean fuel cans,and clean around the fill cap before filling.Shouldn't have to change the filter that often.
I always do that. I'm pretty careful about most things. I only changed it because I noticed in the manual it said the filter change was "every 200 hours or annually". I certainly don't think it was actually dirty.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It hasn't had problems starting since I pulled and re-seated the fuses (well, outside of the post-filter change cranking). Seems to be back to normal with starting and the sediment bowl doesn't seem to be leaking. Guess my luck is holding out.

Rob
 

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It hasn't had problems starting since I pulled and re-seated the fuses (well, outside of the post-filter change cranking). Seems to be back to normal with starting and the sediment bowl doesn't seem to be leaking. Guess my luck is holding out.

Rob
Take a q tip and coat the fuse ends with some dielectric grease if you haven't already to keep it from getting that corroded again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If everything was fine before swapping attachments and lubing, I doubt it's fuel related. I'd retrace your steps and figure out what got hit, bumped, or otherwise screwed up to cause the issue.
Absolutely nothing could have been hit, bumped, or otherwise changed. It ran great all winter and many starts this spring to just move it around the shed or pull a trailer around. Then I moved it around and started it a few times as I removed the blower and installed the mower. Right then is when the hard starting happened which then occurred 2 or 3 cold starts in a row. No fuel fills in that time, no going outside the shed even for the last week before the issue. I highly doubt it had anything to do with the fuel. As I said, I decided to change the filter after realizing the manual said "200 hours or annually" and it was a year in April. And I did the fuse thing separately to keep the changes apart for clarity. Frankly, the idea that the fuse blades were 'corroded' is also very suspect because this x758 is just a year old, always stored indoors, never exposed to water, etc. It gets dusty from mowing, that's about it.

Rob
 
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