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Discussion Starter #1
Installing my 54D is about 50%, goes right on one time and the next the front wheels rotate in different directions (or one turns the other slips) coming down off the front of the deck and the deck rotates and becomes stuck under the tractor (YES, IT'S ENGAGED 4WD).

Today it was another hour jacking and blocking to get the deck out from under. This time I found the piece below sitting on the mower deck:

broken lift part 1.jpg

4 1/8" long, 1/2" wide, 1/4" thick with 2 bad welds which had rusted through:

broken lift part 2.jpg

broken lift part  3.jpg

Where did it come from? I'm in a mowing bind, my GX is waiting for a transmission filter and is drained of hydro fluid and I need to get the 1026/54D working so here's my question. The PTO female connector is hanging down and does not line up with the deck fitting, can I hang it in alignment with a wire and manually move the deck to engage the shaft to the deck? In other words will the shaft drive the deck without the piece that is broken off involved? Hope this makes some kind of sense to someone!

( :laugh: to keep from cryin'! I hate this deck, cuts great, but is awful to install!)
 

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Is this your mystery piece? If your coupler isn't looking right this might be the cause.....


DSCF7938.jpg



Part number 1 in this pic.......


What is broken_zpsdtts9vzl.jpg

A welder might be able to graft it back on, or there's a trip to J-D in your future.

I don't know if there is an updated part of it they are still the same. There have been a few threads about broken mower lifts in the SCUT section.

Good Luck!
 

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I cannot connect my deck on concrete due to the deck rotating while driving off. Some guys lay down a mat but I just do it in the grass now and move the deck with my forks.
 

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That most certainly looks like the mystery piece! It keeps the autoconnect at the desired pitch to connect. You should still be able to rotate and guide it onto the gearbox by hand. Once it is connected and the deck is lifted, the bolt should not be resting on or touching that broken piece anyway, I usually check if I can slide a card between the bolt and the broken piece you have. The current version is one piece.
 

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Are you connecting and disconnecting this deck on flat, high traction ground? Like a flat area of lawn? If not, that would explain why you have so many problems. Unless you're trying to do it fast, then that would explain it also.

The deck shouldn't move that freely under the tractor, and front wheels, if aligned correctly, shouldn't be able to do that. From what you describe, it almost sounds like your going on it fast and at an angle. I have removed and attached my deck dozens of times, sometimes on less than ideal circumstances, and I've only had problems twice, and both were my fault.

Have you watched some of the autoconnect vids on YouTube? Are you doing it like that?
 

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I have the 60D so I'm not sure of the differences other then the size. But when I take the deck off, I release the "latches" on all the wheels so they can move freely up and down and the entire deck can sit on the ground when lowered and not on the wheels rolling around. With it like this, it is all but impossible for the deck to slide or move far enough to screw up the connection. Then when reconnecting simply raise the deck after connection and set the wheels to the proper hole and off you go.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
BINGO, mystery piece source revealed in perfect focus! The little dinky blobby cold weld spots are right there in the pic! Soooo... tomorrow I'll see if anything else is amiss under there and try a manual alignment connection of the shaft. It would be fitting rather than using modern baling wire to hold up the shaft maybe a nice piece of old clothesline or a strip of an old T shirt (JD of course!)

I noticed today out the window that the right side of the I-Match is drooping a bit so there's more to meet the eye going on under there. Hope it ain't too scary, I'll find out later today after I rip up that Tshirt!:laugh:

THANKS EVERYONE!!! LOVE THIS SITE!!!!

EDIT:

The suggestions of connecting on the lawn sound like a good idea! I did set up the deck to sit flat on pavement though and that's where my problem is. This deck is some lighter in weight than a 60 but ALSO sits on 2 little nubs of steel by the nose rolller effectively making a tripod out of the deck contact points, 2 along the rear lip and effectively one right in the center by the roller. Even with the wheels all the way up in the install position the deck can quickly slip and rotate one way or the other. Slick powder coat green paint isn't helping either... I do not "speed" onto the deck :laugh:! With a 54 you MUST creep over the deck to keep front wheels lined up next to the "guide bar"...

To be continued.... (for better or worse):laugh:
 

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I tried one time to drive over my 54" deck when it was on the garage floor.... Never again. If I have to drop the deck, I do it on my gravel driveway or in the yard. One time trying to jack the tractor to wiggle the deck out was enough!


I bet you could get someone to weld that strip back onto the cross bar.


Good luck :bigthumb:
 

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BINGO, mystery piece source revealed in perfect focus! The little dinky blobby cold weld spots are right there in the pic! Soooo... tomorrow I'll see if anything else is amiss under there and try a manual alignment connection of the shaft. It would be fitting rather than using modern baling wire to hold up the shaft maybe a nice piece of old clothesline or a strip of an old T shirt (JD of course!)

I noticed today out the window that the right side of the I-Match is drooping a bit so there's more to meet the eye going on under there. Hope it ain't too scary, I'll find out later today after I rip up that Tshirt!:laugh:

THANKS EVERYONE!!! LOVE THIS SITE!!!!

EDIT:

The suggestions of connecting on the lawn sound like a good idea! I did set up the deck to sit flat on pavement though and that's where my problem is. This deck is some lighter in weight than a 60 but ALSO sits on 2 little nubs of steel by the nose rolller effectively making a tripod out of the deck contact points, 2 along the rear lip and effectively one right in the center by the roller. Even with the wheels all the way up in the install position the deck can quickly slip and rotate one way or the other. Slick powder coat green paint isn't helping either... I do not "speed" onto the deck :laugh:! With a 54 you MUST creep over the deck to keep front wheels lined up next to the "guide bar"...

To be continued.... (for better or worse):laugh:
Your iMATCH drooping is probably just the angle adjustment on the right drag link. It is adjustable just like your top link so you can angle attachments such as a back blade for ditching. Look at that and problem solved more than likely


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The suggestions of connecting on the lawn sound like a good idea! I did set up the deck to sit flat on pavement though and that's where my problem is. This deck is some lighter in weight than a 60 but ALSO sits on 2 little nubs of steel by the nose rolller effectively making a tripod out of the deck contact points, 2 along the rear lip and effectively one right in the center by the roller. Even with the wheels all the way up in the install position the deck can quickly slip and rotate one way or the other. Slick powder coat green paint isn't helping either... I do not "speed" onto the deck :laugh:! With a 54 you MUST creep over the deck to keep front wheels lined up next to the "guide bar"...
Mystery solved! Also, did you add the center roller? Because that doesn't help. :)

After you get the deck and autoconnect repaired, try it on the grass, and you'll finally experience the autoconnect the way it was meant to work.
 

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I'm guessing you found you main problem, looks like that part has been broken or loose for sometime and that is whats been causing you problems.

and from what you stated maybe the bar holding this piece is bent :dunno:

Slick concrete surface isn't helping matters. I have a rubber mat that I park the tractor on works great. I'm removed mine on gravel in lower drive or in the grass. Once in a while will have a issue but most of the time drive over deck and it connects.


Wish you luck
 

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I'm guessing you found you main problem, looks like that part has been broken or loose for sometime and that is whats been causing you problems.

and from what you stated maybe the bar holding this piece is bent :dunno:

Slick concrete surface isn't helping matters. I have a rubber mat that I park the tractor on works great. I'm removed mine on gravel in lower drive or in the grass. Once in a while will have a issue but most of the time drive over deck and it connects.


Wish you luck
I also use a mat in my garage, that slick concrete floor makes things tough, but like Mike01 said, on high traction surfaces never had any problems really.


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The suggestions of connecting on the lawn sound like a good idea! I did set up the deck to sit flat on pavement though and that's where my problem is. This deck is some lighter in weight than a 60 but ALSO sits on 2 little nubs of steel by the nose rolller effectively making a tripod out of the deck contact points, 2 along the rear lip and effectively one right in the center by the roller. Even with the wheels all the way up in the install position the deck can quickly slip and rotate one way or the other. Slick powder coat green paint isn't helping either... I do not "speed" onto the deck :laugh:! With a 54 you MUST creep over the deck to keep front wheels lined up next to the "guide bar"...

To be continued.... (for better or worse):laugh:
I take it you put a roller on the center front and take it that the 2 little nubs by the roller are what's holding the roller on. If that's the case I'd grind them down so they won't touch anything and let it rest on the roller. The "2 along the rear lip" I don't understand what you're talking about.
I have the 60" and have a roller on the front too. With it all the way down it rests on the roller and starting at the sides it rest on the frame from that point on all the way around the back to the other side. I hook and unhook on cement with maybe a ½" of movement at the most if at all. My roller is lower then the deck by a ¼" or a ½". Don't remember.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mystery solved! Also, did you add the center roller? Because that doesn't help. :)
I take it you put a roller on the center front and take it that the 2 little nubs by the roller are what's holding the roller on. If that's the case I'd grind them down so they won't touch anything and let it rest on the roller. The "2 along the rear lip" I don't understand what you're talking .
Not having a totally working mind any more I began to wonder, "Could I be..... "mistaken"? So I just braved the dark and scary back yard in search of the elusive 54D FRONT ROLLER and lo and behold it has migrated over to the 48C deck and isn't on the 54D at all!:laugh:

So many mower decks I can't keep track any more... Yes, the "2 little nubs by the drawbar mount is where the front of the deck rests. Any 2 points of ground contact along the rear lip forms that triangle which makes the front tip with the tractor wheel weight gets all the way forward. If there was no axle pivot it might work OK.

Today was a "Wife Only Day" so real life will have to wait until tomorrow. I think I'm getting a headache...:laugh:
 

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Funny i have this exact same problem and just signed up to post about it and then found this. Though my plate is long gone! I dove through the part diagram's to find the exact part replacement (BLV10736)

ErikR you asked if it was #1 but i think it's more like #14 (in the diagram you previously posted), but a different version. Capture.PNG BLV10736, the cheapest i could find the part was as this whole kit for $240 (Mower Deck Linkage Kit,BLV10736 - newandusedtractorparts.com). In my initial research i thought it was part #14 which i could find for around 100 and i was just going to purchase it but at 240 i will take it off and see if someone can weld it.

ErikR, looking at your photo i am guessing some clown used my dads tractor and left the mowing deck attachment down and then hit it on something as he lets other people use it.

Do you think once could simply JBweld it back on? It doesn't seam like there is a lot of stress on the part apart from if it hits something.
 

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travish, you may be right. It looks like there's been some updated parts.

John Deere Mid-Mower Rear Draft Rod - LVA20039

traccap.jpg

As far as repairing the original one with JB Weld, I think anything is possible, but if it were me... If my little tab broke off, I'd take off the lift arm and find someone to weld that little strip back into place. I have no experience with JB Weld so I can't say if it's a good idea or not.... sorry.

There have been a few threads on here about this style linkage breaking in various places.....

DSCF7152 - Copy.JPG

A quick search for "broken lift" or " broken linkage" would probably bring up lots of info.

Good luck!
 

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IMO you would be wasting your money trying to repair with JB Weld.
 

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IMO you would be wasting your money trying to repair with JB Weld.
I agree , don't waste your time with JB Weld for this type of repair . Do it right and do it once !!! Good luck .:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
LATEST UP(down)DATE

It is definitely #1 in the parts list, the "new" linkage.

AND, I think I figgered what happened to rip that tab off the rod. Looking at the bottom (opposite the welds) side of the tab there a small ding that's pretty fresh where the leveling bolt heat grabbed the tab and bent it back. When I unhooked the last time somehow the bolt head caught the tab and hooked it off the rod. (Just guessin' though.) Looking at the photo, the adjusting bolt head is almost centered on the plate from top to bottom. Looking at the wear area, mine was contacting the plate with only about the top 1/4 of the head surface, plenty of room to jar itself under the plate...

Got the deck back under the tractor easily using a shallow wooden wedge under each front corner of the deck. It sat solid as a rock on the blacktop, no teetering or trying to move in any direction. (Machine is set up to connect on pavement, not lawn so I thought it best to keep things on the same level.) Moved the machine forward until it contacted the female driveshaft fitting and got that leveled up with the deck with blocking. I eased forward and found that something else was interfering with the hookup. The deck began to slide forward before the shaft would connect and the rear latches were about 1.5" too far to the rear.

After about 5 tries (3hrs.) at various fixes I just can't see under there where the hangup is. Service Dept. will call me back tomorrow, I've had it. I am going to see how much a "non-auto" driveshaft connection will cost before I let them repair it back to original hit or miss system. A manual hookup certainly looks easy enough for a geezer that can still waste this many hours rolling around on the ground under a tractor!

I don't suppose this will be any way covered by my extended warranty but I'm going to as since it's on the tractor side and not the "attachment"...

And so on...!:laugh:
 
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