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Flooding situations with any type of carburetor is usually within the internals parts of the carburetor. A flooding carburetor doesn't come from any electrical, PTO, or engine malfunctions, it's inside the carburetor...more like a stuck float/needle seat situation. The only thing to do at this time, is to remove the carburetor and really clean it and make any repairs that is needed...like a new carburetor kit.
 

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I installed a carb kit in mine about 3-4 years ago because of flooding problems. It had a worn needle valve and seat.
If your Z445 has a Kawasaki engine, the kit part number(MIA10521) is changed to a MIA10927. These kits run anywhere from, $60 - $75, depending on where you purchase it.
 
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Like flyweight suggested:

Get a carb kit and check/replace needle/seat. Also, it is *critical* to check the float level.

You can check float level with a drill bit, based on the specification of the float level spacing.

Also, if the float is plastic, ethanol fuel could have damaged it, causing the float to fill with gas and "sink" causing flooding.

You can check the float by ensuring it "floats" on gasoline or water in a glass. Removing the float requires removing the float pin and carefully removing the needle from the float tang.

For example, if the float level is 5/16"--

1. Get a 5/16 drill bit.
2. Turn the carb upside down, so the float assembly and needle will be "closed" against the seat.
2. Slip it between the float and the carburetor metal body.
3. If there is no "gap" between the float "top" and the carb body, then the float level is "good"
4. If there is not enough space, or too much space, you will need to adjust the float tang-- where it connects to the needle
5. Use a small, precise needle nose plier and very gentle movements to adjust the tang!

Clean out all the other passages.

Re assemble.

Note: Ethanol fuel is bad for small engine carbs. Use fuel treatment (e.g. Sta-bil).

Good luck!
-Matt
 

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All good advice.

I see this is your first post so :wgtt:

Welcome from New York.
 

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Like flyweight suggested:

Get a carb kit and check/replace needle/seat. Also, it is *critical* to check the float level.

You can check float level with a drill bit, based on the specification of the float level spacing.

Also, if the float is plastic, ethanol fuel could have damaged it, causing the float to fill with gas and "sink" causing flooding.

You can check the float by ensuring it "floats" on gasoline or water in a glass. Removing the float requires removing the float pin and carefully removing the needle from the float tang.

For example, if the float level is 5/16"--

1. Get a 5/16 drill bit.
2. Turn the carb upside down, so the float assembly and needle will be "closed" against the seat.
2. Slip it between the float and the carburetor metal body.
3. If there is no "gap" between the float "top" and the carb body, then the float level is "good"
4. If there is not enough space, or too much space, you will need to adjust the float tang-- where it connects to the needle
5. Use a small, precise needle nose plier and very gentle movements to adjust the tang!

Clean out all the other passages.

Re assemble.

Note: Ethanol fuel is bad for small engine carbs. Use fuel treatment (e.g. Sta-bil).

Good luck!
-Matt
^^^^^ What he said. Worn or not floating are the two big issues.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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The big problem with the early versions of this model Z445 was the needle valve. The original one was plastic with a rubber end. The replacement needle valve is brass. More heavy and would shut off flow better. With a plastic float, to my knowledge, it's not adjustable for float level. The older brass floats were. Just a bend of the tab. Plastic. . nothing to bend. Also adding an inline fuel shutoff is advised. Shut it off when not running or being transported.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 
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