The video is private. No can see.
Z997R Deck Lift Bearing Grease Fittings John Deere ZTRAC mower tractor
Very disappointed in the quality of the manufacture of the deck lift system on my Z997 John Deere mower. I wanted to remove the 8 bearing caps from the front and rear deck lift shafts, so I could install zerk fittings in the bottom cap. When I removed the first one I got a shock, because I found out that all 8 of the bearing caps are plastic. I'm hoping some super Geuniss scientist Engineer for John Deere Found out that plastic bearing caps holding about 200 lbs of deck weight, with constant up and down movement, and possibly thousands of lbs of striking force ( from moving 12 mph fwd speed hitting things), DON'T WEAR AS MUCH AS STEEL BEARING CAPS. Which steel bearing caps do usually come with zerk fittings. Ok I'm hopping someone out there can explain this one to me and probably the rest of the world. I even had decided to put zerk fittings in the plastic bearing caps but, NO they are not even solid, they have 3 pieces to the cap. First is a steel cover plate, second the bottom plastic bearing cap, third the top bearing cap. The bottom bearing cap has a cavity on the steel cover side. If they were solid I could just drill a hole all the way through and insert a zerk fitting and pump grease around the shaft. I know someone from John Deere wouldn't want to explain this But I'm all ears as to what was the reason.
I was under the impression that John Deere said Quality it was made in USA and not "Made In China"
I was under the impression that John Deere said Quality it was made in USA and not "Made In China"
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I know your pain. Twenty two years ago I bought a 1999 John Deere 345 with 54" deck. The deck wheels didn't last about one year. Seems like Deere engineers decided that plastic was the thing to insert in the wheel axle housing and they added the grease Zerks for good behavior. Results: Grease and dirt/sand/and other ground items don't mix well. What you get is some good sandpaper. So, the wheels wore out at the axle housing and they wobbled. I ended up buying new wheels and drilling out the plastic inserts and install good old brass fittings. Problem solved.
In your case, can you find you some steel bearing caps to replace the plastic ones? Also, I would bet the John Dealer knows very well what the score is when you come to replace the worn out plastic caps. About $75.00 per cap to replace.
In your case, can you find you some steel bearing caps to replace the plastic ones? Also, I would bet the John Dealer knows very well what the score is when you come to replace the worn out plastic caps. About $75.00 per cap to replace.
I HOPE it is fixed please let me know if it is not. Thanks for letting me know.The video is private. No can see.
I HOPE it is fixed please let me know if it is not. Thanks for letting me know.
Video is working.
A thought on Zerks. Drill a 3/16" hole thru steel cap and partially into plastic bearing half. Remove bearing lower half & strap and drill 3/16" thru bearing half. Apply Permatex #2 liberally, or similar, to underside of metal strap and install LOOSELY. Slip 3/16" drill into both parts (to align holes) and tighten bolts. Get "drive type" 3/16" Alemite fittings and tap into 3/16" holes. Apply grease and done! Bob
A thought on Zerks. Drill a 3/16" hole thru steel cap and partially into plastic bearing half. Remove bearing lower half & strap and drill 3/16" thru bearing half. Apply Permatex #2 liberally, or similar, to underside of metal strap and install LOOSELY. Slip 3/16" drill into both parts (to align holes) and tighten bolts. Get "drive type" 3/16" Alemite fittings and tap into 3/16" holes. Apply grease and done! Bob
That's a great idea! I replace the wheels on my x748 62C about every 3 years or so . They probably need it after 1 year! I do keep my wheels up pretty high, but the uneven ground, and just the grass touching them as the machine moves still makes the wheels spin.I know your pain. Twenty two years ago I bought a 1999 John Deere 345 with 54" deck. The deck wheels didn't last about one year. Seems like Deere engineers decided that plastic was the thing to insert in the wheel axle housing and they added the grease Zerks for good behavior. Results: Grease and dirt/sand/and other ground items don't mix well. What you get is some good sandpaper. So, the wheels wore out at the axle housing and they wobbled. I ended up buying new wheels and drilling out the plastic inserts and install good old brass fittings. Problem solved.
In your case, can you find you some steel bearing caps to replace the plastic ones? Also, I would bet the John Dealer knows very well what the score is when you come to replace the worn out plastic caps. About $75.00 per cap to replace.
Do you happen to remember the dimensions and/or source for the bushings?
Ok I will look at finding them in steel. I could make my own but it would be difficult to heat treat the inside bearing surface. I will start at John Deere, $75 would probably be right but would hope to find them from a cheaper source.I know your pain. Twenty two years ago I bought a 1999 John Deere 345 with 54" deck. The deck wheels didn't last about one year. Seems like Deere engineers decided that plastic was the thing to insert in the wheel axle housing and they added the grease Zerks for good behavior. Results: Grease and dirt/sand/and other ground items don't mix well. What you get is some good sandpaper. So, the wheels wore out at the axle housing and they wobbled. I ended up buying new wheels and drilling out the plastic inserts and install good old brass fittings. Problem solved.
In your case, can you find you some steel bearing caps to replace the plastic ones? Also, I would bet the John Dealer knows very well what the score is when you come to replace the worn out plastic caps. About $75.00 per cap to replace.
There are many types of plastic, with different properties like self lubricating. It depends what the plastic is. Go and have a look at the sway bar in your car or truck, it is mounted in bushes and does more work than a mower does, how often do you change them. Steel will ware much quicker and it will ware the shaft as well, wouldn't it be cheaper to replace just the plastic bearings than the whole assembly. If you wish to make new blocks make them out of something like Lubron, Nolothane, or Nylon that way you are less likely to damage the cross shaft.Ok I will look at finding them in steel. I could make my own but it would be difficult to heat treat the inside bearing surface. I will start at John Deere, $75 would probably be right but would hope to find them from a cheaper source.
Regards John
That's a great idea! I replace the wheels on my x748 62C about every 3 years or so . They probably need it after 1 year! I do keep my wheels up pretty high, but the uneven ground, and just the grass touching them as the machine moves still makes the wheels spin.
Do you happen to remember the dimensions and/or source for the bushings?
No longer have the JD 345 to measure the brass bushing. Here's what I did. I remove one deck wheel and took the wheel and axle bolt to IBT.. The bearing people and they had the brass bushings I needed. I think the cost was around $12.00 for all 4 wheels. I put the wheel in a portable vise and used my dress press to drill out the plastic bushing.
Same thing with my 2014 997 Z Trak.Very disappointed in the quality of the manufacture of the deck lift system on my Z997 John Deere mower.
Even the owners manual shows pics. of bearings with zerks to grease.
Since you're into maintenance, you might check out an old thread of mine on the front wheels.
They appear to be the same on the 997r as my older 997.
Caught a potential failure after 3 years of using it.
Noisey bearing on front wheel of 997 with just 202 hours.
Bearing noise heard on left front wheel of 997 during 200 hour maintenance by spinning it by hand and comparing it to the right wheel. Spun as free as the right wheel, no hang ups, but was noisy. Pulled the castor down, (an el cheapo 12 ton press does a great job doing this). Found that one...
www.greentractortalk.com
Thanks Bob, It appears you have worked on these before. These Plastic bearing caps are about 2" thick, and have a 1 3/4" open cavity which leaves only about 1/4" left. Problem is because its not solid all the way through the grease would just set in the cavity and not flow to the shaft. I will try to get a photo of it and post it later. Wish I would have done that when I had it off before.Video is working.
A thought on Zerks. Drill a 3/16" hole thru steel cap and partially into plastic bearing half. Remove bearing lower half & strap and drill 3/16" thru bearing half. Apply Permatex #2 liberally, or similar, to underside of metal strap and install LOOSELY. Slip 3/16" drill into both parts (to align holes) and tighten bolts. Get "drive type" 3/16" Alemite fittings and tap into 3/16" holes. Apply grease and done! Bob
He-he, nope, never worked on them, just familiar with many things...ya know, jack of all trades!
OK, Plan B: While caps are still mounted, drill thru 3/16", install zerks and remove caps. Clean any chips/debris from cavity and then hand pack/fill cavity with grease. Mount caps and grease with gun until grease flows out around shaft. You can leave the excess grease there as it will make a seal and keep debris from getting into shaft/cap joint. Bob
OK, Plan B: While caps are still mounted, drill thru 3/16", install zerks and remove caps. Clean any chips/debris from cavity and then hand pack/fill cavity with grease. Mount caps and grease with gun until grease flows out around shaft. You can leave the excess grease there as it will make a seal and keep debris from getting into shaft/cap joint. Bob
We have a 2017 997R with 2654hrs on it from new and we are just replacing these caps now, the old ones are still complete with some play on where the shaft swivels on them. TCU21569 X 8, they are less than $3.00 each not worth putting zerks on in my opinion.
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