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I am not sure. I could only see by torch and feel by locating the push rod. The valve where the push rod popped out is the problem one however the valve that was still in had the large gap of around 1.5mm (.059") after it was set at around .08mm (.0031"). I was setting the valve gap to .05mm (.002") to .10mm (.004") which was in the technical manual i have. The was a post somewhere that kawasaki and jd had conflicting gap settings (.004" to .006" in one and .002" to .004" in the other).
That might have been my post when I was working on my Z950R. I don't recall the spec but yeah they were different (Kawasaki vs JD manuals) and I went in the middle.


I have a slightly larger engine but the specs are the same. If I remember the process and I think it is the same on the horizontal Kawasaki in my X585 but you adjust the clearance by loosening a nut and turning a concentric bolt then tightening up the nut to lock it in place. I am used to doing valve clearance checks on motorcycles where we had shim swaps. I recall that when I first did this on my X585 I was having a heck of a time. I would adjust the concentric to get the proper gap but it would turn ever so slightly as I was tightening the lock nut. This was because the slop in the wrench I was using to hold the concentric bolt. I seem to remember having to go overly tight on the gap and then when tightening the lock nut it would loosen up to where it should be. That is from memory. I would, if it were me, set it again making sure to check the gap before and after tightening the lock nut. Running it a few hours and checking again. Maybe the bolt slipped.

I am going off memory on this because I didn't read the entire post above but I provided a link for you when I was going through the valve clearance check on my ZTrak.
 
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