[mllkn6]

I have a 1950 John Deere "B" tractor, I replaced the Oil Pressure Gauge, the old one has had the oil line that went to the tractor to read the oil pressure removed. I want to reconnect it so the new gauge works, but I can't find where it connected into the tractor at or what sensor to buy to connect it too. They must have removed the sensor also and plugged the hole with a bolt as I have looked everywhere for it.
This tractor my grandfather bought new Dec.1950, I spent many day in the seat growing up and after also, I still use it on the farm from time to time. I have no idea why my dad or my uncle discarded the old line or when, all I know is I want to know what the oil pressure is. The ole girl runs great, burns no oil and will pull a house down, had her repainted and new decals 10 years ago and have the original harrows, cultivators, and Grain/Fertilizer Spreader he purchased with it for $1,626.24 back then, also have a fertilizer spreader that was bought some what later and bush hog.
I'm going to give it to my son with the implements as he needs one for his small farm in the lower part of the state, he grew up using it too, but I want everything working when I do. I tuned her up, rebuilt the carburetor, new 6 volt battery, changed all the fluids and filters, greased her up, new water temperature gauge as the old one stopped working a while back, also throwing in a new 6 volt battery charger since I will not need it then, and the only thing left is the oil pressure gauge to get working.
I have another tractor I use mostly now, but he can wait till I pass to get it, LOL.
If anyone can help me I would appreciate it more than you know, I can't find anything on line to help at all. The closest JD dealer is no help either, their motto is "if you not buying we know nothing" as they say they have nothing on it at all.
Thanks for reading my post.

 

[bloodrunsgreen]

Is it styled or unstyled version of the "B"?

I could only find those items under the styled "B"

John Deere Parts Catalog

Find parts & diagrams for your John Deere equipment. Search our parts catalog, order parts online or contact your John Deere dealer.

partscatalog.deere.com

You should look at dash, and that will show the fittings that went to the engine. Then under oil lines, fittings, pump (their are severals to look at) you can see where it possibly attached, compare to yours. My thinking is it goes to the oil pump.

You can print those out, email to yourself in PDF file

 

[Super55]

I'm not sure if this will offer any assistance or not but my old Avery model V has a similar mechanical oil press gauge that comes out right at the base of the mesh filter. Might be looking around the base of that and seeing if there is a plug you could remove and tap into.

 

[tommyhawk]

This is a pic of the right side of the governor housing. Remove the two bolts that hold this sheet metal shield in place. Down in that cavity is where the oil line connects. Might be a bit hard to see and work in the area. The hood and dash were off this one when we installed a new O/P gage and line. Don't take this for a fact, but I believe the brass fitting that screws into the case is a pipe thread to compression fitting style. It should still should be available from JD but once you figure out the size and type fitting needed now, you can get it at the hardware store.
Copper line would probably be OK, but the original, and replacement we used on this 1950 B was steel (brake line). Hope this helps.

tommyhawk

 

[mllkn6]

To Bloodrunsgreen, Super55 and tommyhawk,
Thank you to each of you for your help, I really appreciate it more than you know, I knew someone on here had to know where it connected. I figure it had to be in some out of the way place as I have looked every where for it, tommyhawk, I agree a copper line will probably be good to use. Here is picture of my ole girl, she has been a good one I can say that over the years. Thanks again for your help.

 

[bloodrunsgreen]

Some more info on the B with it's oil lines:

John Deere B oil pump and lines

I'm 16 and new to this forum and 2 cylinder john Deere's in general but my newest project is a late styled B (haven't looked up the SN yet). Here is the back story. This tractor has been sitting in a barn for 25-30 years partially disassembled. I wanted to use the space for a engine swap I'm...

www.yesterdaystractors.com

 

[mllkn6]

thanks, bloodrunsgreen, I hope mine isn't that bad as I have no idea why the oil pressure line was removed. I know it used to work years ago, but I was gone for 3 years in the Army back in 68-71 of which I spent 2 1/2 years overseas. I can't remember if it was working after that or not now.
I'll pull her in my shop toward the end of the week or the first of next week as I'm replacing some disk on the harrows right now as well as making minor repairs to the drill and spreader, which should give me time to order the stuff to fix it after I take a look inside to be sure that is the problem. Sounds like a plan to me, course I have had a lot of plans that went south on me before too.
My wife says I the only person she ever heard of that always has several projects going all the time, what I didn't mention is I got my mom's old 86 Jeep Wagoneer that spun a bearing back in the winter that I'm rebuilding the motor on and my old 71 Datsun 240Z that the gas tank rusted out on me a few years back also, finally found a reasonable used one on ebay last year but I noticed the floorboards were rusted almost out too, so in fixing these things I pulled the motor and rebuilt it and now I'm redoing the interior and probably will repaint it as well and I might as well re-chrome the bumpers too, LOL
Thank you again.

 

[bloodrunsgreen]

I have a 1997 S10 Blazer 4WD, 4 door that needs attention. Got room for another? Just doors, inner fenders, rockers, body mounts/bolts. LOL

 

[mllkn6]

I have a 1997 S10 Blazer 4WD, 4 door that needs attention. Got room for another? Just doors, inner fenders, rockers, body mounts/bolts. LOL

LMAO, I could get the tractor in but it would make getting around really difficult, especially with the two wrecked Harley Davidson I got to pick up this week from an insurance company I deal with. I buy some of their wrecks if we can get the price right, fix them up and resale them while I play with them. The son of one of my good friends works there and knows what I'm like so he calls me to see if I'm interested. I buy between 3 to 5 a year usually, gives me time to fix it right and not push it.
I like keeping busy and piddling around, doing nothing drives me crazy, plus I like making money too. Not to mention I'm one of those people that get bored easily with one thing, so this way I always got something else to go to and I take lots of pictures during the process just in case I forget where I was or how it went back together, didn't take but once to learn that lesson.
My shop is only 1800 sf with a 10'x 8' door on each end that line up from each other, but I got everything I need to do what I need to do, stick, mig and tig welders, pipe bender, air compressor, air tools, saws, 100 amp plasma cutter, 5 craftsman 5' high tool boxes full of tools, a jig set up to notch pipe, torches, 4 big old floor jacks that can lift a car 4' high and presses, just to name some of the stuff I collected or inherited over the years. I worked construction for 40+ years, someone always has something to sell on a construction site or pawn shops work too. If I needed it I bought it out of the money I made working on stuff never out of the house hold money, that way my better half is ok with it. I never half do anything either, if it's worth doing do it right or not at all, is how I look at it. Might as well save yourself the aggravation and pay someone to fix it.

Let me get a few thing out of the way and I'll let you know when to bring it down. Might be a while though. LOL, have a great day, bloodrunsgreen, thanks again.

 

[mllkn6]

This is a pic of the right side of the governor housing. Remove the two bolts that hold this sheet metal shield in place. Down in that cavity is where the oil line connects. Might be a bit hard to see and work in the area. The hood and dash were off this one when we installed a new O/P gage and line. Don't take this for a fact, but I believe the brass fitting that screws into the case is a pipe thread to compression fitting style. It should still should be available from JD but once you figure out the size and type fitting needed now, you can get it at the hardware store.
Copper line would probably be OK, but the original, and replacement we used on this 1950 B was steel (brake line). Hope this helps.
tommyhawk

tommyhawk,
Looks like what is behind your plate is not what is behind mine as mine is solid behind the plate, see picture, I even took the Transmission Cover Plate off next to it and didn't see any place the Oil Pressure Line could have connected. Do you by any chance have a picture of the connection and can tell me where it's located, I'm sorry I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer. I appreciate all you have done. Thanks again.
mllkn6

 

[tommyhawk]

I'll try to get another picture. Quite possibly that's a plug at the bottom where the wires go under the cover plate. ??

tommyhawk

 

[mllkn6]

I'll try to get another picture. Quite possibly that's a plug at the bottom where the wires go under the cover plate. ??

tommyhawk

Looked under plate between the steering column and Magneto, some oil lines but none that were bro9ken or cut, all were connected some place that I could see or feel.

 

[tommyhawk]

Here ya go. If you are lucky, Pop plugged the hole with a hex head pipe plug. Take it out and use it to get the proper compression fitting. As mentioned, I think the hole is a tapered pipe thread, but I could be wrong. Once you remove the plug, you should crank the engine over a couple turns to see if oil squirts out. If so, clean up the mess (sorry) and proceed. Be sure to leave the ignition off!!! Turning it over by hand would be good, but a lot more trouble.
Perhaps the oil line broke way back when, right in the middle of an important job. Knowing O/P was good, plugging the hole a getting back to work would take a lot less time that replacing the line. Kinda tight up at the gage end.

tommyhawk

P.S. Looks like I have the same mouse poo or weed seeds at the bottom of the cavity as yours! lol

 

[mllkn6]

Thanks, tommyhawk, There is a bolt there at the bottom, I guess that was the first time that cover had been off since they did it, probably my dad or uncle. They were partners on the farm and ranch after my grandfather passed, I was the goffer. After I got out of service I started buy cattle myself and bought my uncle out in the late 70's.So it happened before that, I couldn't believe the crap and mostly field dirt, that was behind that plate, I cleaned it up, sprayed it with Ospho to kill the rust and when it dried repainted it JD green.
I'll take the bolt out and run by the John Deere place to get what I need. But looking at the two oil pressure line in the Parts Diagram I'm not so sure now if it didn't go through the hole to connect to something at the bottom of the case, I guess it's worth checking it out and draining the oil to see.
Thanks again.
mllkn6

 

[tommyhawk]

I don't have any photos inside the crankcase and don't know exactly how it feeds pressurized oil to the gage and the governor housing. If you still have the crankcase cover off, use a mirror to look directly under the plugged hole position. I suspect you will see a line coming from the oil pump to a fitting screwed into that same hole from below. That fitting may or may not be the same as the one on top. Just can't remember how the gov. housing gets it's oil supply, but think it is connected somehow with the gage feed. ??? There might be two separate lines close to each other.
See if you can figure it out. Got me curious. Been 8 years since I saw the inside of the CC.

tommyhawk

 

[mllkn6]

I don't have any photos inside the crankcase and don't know exactly how it feeds pressurized oil to the gage and the governor housing. If you still have the crankcase cover off, use a mirror to look directly under the plugged hole position. I suspect you will see a line coming from the oil pump to a fitting screwed into that same hole from below. That fitting may or may not be the same as the one on top. Just can't remember how the gov. housing gets it's oil supply, but think it is connected somehow with the gage feed. ??? There might be two separate lines close to each other.
See if you can figure it out. Got me curious. Been 8 years since I saw the inside of the CC.

tommyhawk

Thanks, tommyhawk, I'll do that tomorrow as I have to drain the oil out, I'm under the impression there has to be some place there to connect to, just looking at the oil lines shown in the JD Parts Catalog as they show 2 different ones and they both have bends and curves that look similar to the configuration the lines would need to go in there, also back then they were steel lines that didn't bend easily without crimping. I just changed the oil a month ago, I can pour it right back in through the cover hole when finished too, just got to keep it clean is all. I'll let you know what I find out for sure.
Hey, I really appreciate yours and everyone else help.
My sons birthday is coming up next month, he doesn't know he is getting it. He has an ole Ford tractor that was a piece of crap when he got it and he spends more time trying to keep it running than using it. This is all I need to finish it up so everything works, then I can figure out how I getting everything down to his home without him knowing it. His wife thinks she knows a place we can hid it and use his tractor to unload it, he is a supervisor at the Savanna River Plant and will be on first shift so I move it the week of his birthday. Tractor, bush hog, Harrows, grain drill, cultivators and fertilizer spreader, looks like 3 trips will do it, 150 miles one way too. Sounds like a busy week to me.
Thanks again
mllkn6

 

[Dan in Ohio]

This is what I used when I added new plumbing for my 70 gas. The nuts are called furled nuts. I buy them at my local plumbing supply house along with the 3/16s copper tubing, easier to bend than brake line.

 

[Dan in Ohio]

What you are seeing in the last photo is a piece of #9 wire I used as a mock up before I cut any tubing.

 

[Dan in Ohio]

Here is another source for fittings.

 

[mllkn6]

tommyhawk,
I took both covers off and you were right, there is a line going down into the oil from that hole I the case, looks like a 1/4 NPT, so I'm thinking I can run an 1/8" line from there up to the gauge with soft . Yes, the oil pump works great too, LOL, thank God I was only bumping the starter or there would have been a real mess. Now to pick up some copper pipe as I have the fittings to make it work and the gauge. I didn't even need to drain the oil either, that was a winner too.
Thanks tommyhawk, I appreciate your help.
mllkn6