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1988 John Deere 1450 tractor

5.8K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  charlesmineo2  
#1 ·
Were these good tractors?
 
#22 ·
i own a 1450 4x4 forestry unit… it has a 20000 lbs ramsey winch on front … 100 loader. the wheels are flips out so it has super stance …. it was owned by con ed gas pipeline for clearing trails … it is a beast but keeps snapping here and breaking there … just had it welded up yesterday. .. stupid steering yoke snapped in half under the front. time for something new.
 
#19 ·
Here are more pictures. I want to change oil and filters. What does the group recommend when it comes to oils and filters? Should I pay the extra for John Deere filters and oil? Would you recommend using Wix filters? I appreciate the suggestions in advance.
 
#20 ·
If you use the WIX, then get a taller filter. The reason being, the finer micron filtering. Finer micron filtering in a small can will clog up faster and the flow rate gets a bit chocked. Otherwise the normal Purolator Ag filters work just fine for the Yanmar/Deere machines.

After the JD1050, the higher model numbers could use 15W40. Ideally, 10W40 or 10W30 diesel work better for a number of reasons.
  • Easier starts.
  • Better Hp management. Engine isn't working the oil so hard while spinning.
  • The oil heat can dissipate better.
  • Easier to push oil upwards in the cylinder sleeves and lower piston rings.
  • Flows better in the oil filter.
  • Less chances of the head needing service or develops cracks as thicker oil traps the heat.

Yanmar engines are made to JIS specs and not SAE back in those days. It wasn't until the 90 series things changed a bunch.

Do keep to using 'meets J20C' and not the 'compatible with' or 'recommended' marking hype. There are class action lawsuits with plenty of broken tractors. NAPA, TSC and others sold the inferior fluids. Today, NAPA now has a disclaimer offering no warranty with any of their fluids.
J20C
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J20C
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meets J20C
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The Yanmar hydraulics are very picky on these machines. Do not deviate.
Ashland-Valvoline has made J20C for decades too.

Another item of interest, inspect the fuel tank. Look for the nasty sludge or microbe build up.
I quit using the PS products as they were failing in prevention. Both Seafoam and GumOut products does the job well.
GumOut a bit better actually. I use either when I find a sale.
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If you need fuel filters, o-ring, a new fuel bowl, always get the tallest ones to fit the tractor. This way, if you are stalled out in the field with a clogged filter, a few taps or so will knock off just enough to travel out of the field and back to the garage. Not so with the shorter filter and shorter bowl.

To the left is the short filter and bowl, to the right is the taller filter. Both use the same o-ring seal.
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#17 · (Edited)
I briefly considered purchasing a new, left over JD 1450 back in 1989. It resembled the 950 4WD which I had for ~7 years.

As it turned out the JD 1070 was introduced at that time and the dealer had a new one in stock. I liked the fully synchronized transmission on the 1070 and it was a good step-up from the 950.

Convinced the dealer to order a #10 backhoe which we installed using a #8 subframe and attaching parts. It was quite a digging machine. Kept the 1070 for 20 years and sold it for what I paid for it.

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#12 ·
the tires look in great shape...
paint is faded - meaning it was stored outside?... check for possible issues with instrument cluster or switches due to rain-water ingress.

If I needed a tractor that size, an it was priced at $10K - i'd buy it instantly.

cheers!
Actually, the paint isn't too faded at all. Back in that era, the JD green wasn't so right and deep.

If you find an old 50 series repainted and restored like this one, you can tell immediately it's the newer generation of JD green. This was my old JD850 totally restored and Yanmar upgraded with the foldable OE ROPs.

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#8 ·

Theres the specs.

Looks like a decent machine with factory loader and 4x4 ,power steering.

I wouldn't be scared of that one at all.

Price......no clue......would probly bring more than 10k in my area and closer to 20+
[/QUOTE
It has the large Yanmar 4T95 engine, with the loader, 4WD, Yanmar OE leaky PS, and open cab. If averaged hours about 1,800 and bore-scoped the internals of the engine, it could fetch $16K easy.

If this is bought, I hope it's someone who has owned a Japan diesel engine prior. The reasoning is, the heads to this engine are very pricey.
  • Don't idle the engine more than 10min max, ever.
  • Ramp up to given engine speed gracefully.
  • Ramp down the engine speed, and never shut down faster cold turkey.
  • Keep the fuel tank flushed clean once a year. Replace the fuel filter, o-ring and bowl 2X per year.
  • Gumout Multi-System Fuel System cleaner or Seafoam to keep the fuel system working excellent.
  • Keep in shed or garage. Never let moisture get into the exhaust port.
  • Keep the air-intake clean and sealed with no by-pass around the air filter.
  • Keep the radiator fins and/or screen clean as much as possible.
  • Only use J20C/J20D or TF500A or any brand store stating 'meet's J20C/J20D. never 'compatible with' nor 'recommended for', that just marketing hype.
  • Always park a Yanmar on level ground when it's not running.
Thank you so much for taking time to share this information!!! I appreciate all the responses!! I really want to make an educated decision, and take the investment!
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
It has the large Yanmar 4T95 engine, with the loader, 4WD, Yanmar OE leaky PS, and open cab. If averaged hours about 1,800 and bore-scoped the internals of the engine, it could fetch $16K easy.

If this is bought, I hope it's someone who has owned a Japan diesel engine prior. The reasoning is, the heads to this engine are very pricey.
  • Don't idle the engine more than 10min max, ever.
  • Ramp up to given engine speed gracefully.
  • Ramp down the engine speed, and never shut down faster cold turkey.
  • Keep the fuel tank flushed clean once a year. Replace the fuel filter, o-ring and bowl 2X per year.
  • Gumout Multi-System Fuel System cleaner or Seafoam to keep the fuel system working excellent.
  • Keep in shed or garage. Never let moisture get into the exhaust port.
  • Keep the air-intake clean and sealed with no by-pass around the air filter.
  • Keep the radiator fins and/or screen clean as much as possible.
  • Only use J20C/J20D or TF500A or any brand store stating 'meet's J20C/J20D. never 'compatible with' nor 'recommended for', that just marketing hype.
  • Always park a Yanmar on level ground when it's not running.
 
#3 ·
you need to be more specific,, the machines all have strengths, and weaknesses,,
10,000 hours? 150 hours?? What will it do???
Tell us more!!
I’m sorry, looks to be in good shape, has 2900 hours on it and was owned by a university. I am looking to use it for loader work, running a brush hog and a rear blade for snow removal and maintaining a gravel driveway. Manual and Mx records come with it. I have not looked at it in person, only pictures so far. I was hoping to get a feel from people with experience if that yr/model was a good tractor or had any specific issues. I have a 28 acre farm, with a lot of it woods, so I would also be dragging downed trees out to cut up for firewood. It would not be something I would use everyday. Hope this helps.