What error codes was it flashing? I would have been very suspicious of any mechanic wanting to replace that many components at one time. Their diagnostics couldn’t have been following any kind of logical process.
What was the original code?
If there was multiple codes for multiple sensors, I would look closely at power and ground connections to the transmission control unit.

 

You are correct, I was very suspicious, that's why I brought it home.

I'm not sure what the first codes were. I didn't have a technical manual then.

When I got it home I was able to unload and park it. I tried moving it into the shop a few days latter it wouldn't go in reverse but would drive forward. They told me the next thing to change was the forward / reverse coils. I started there. You can get them out without splitting the tractor. The reason I pulled them was they checked 4 ohms. That is low from what the technical manual states. After I pulled them out they are stamped 3.7 ohms. Nothing wrong there! By the way I don't have a flywheel sensor. I guess 2008 models don't have that. Not sure where engine speed comes from.

I thought after reinstalling them and going through setting up throttle sensor and forward / reverse pedal sensors I needed to recalibrate so I did move the fuse to calibrate mode. After many failed attempts to calibrate I found the blue and purple wires from the controller to forward and reverse coils not reading correct. I've got that fixed.

Going through calibration, when I get to . . - - put trans in "A" step on fwd pedal nothing happens. Wheel want move.

 

Going through calibration, when I get to . . - - put trans in "A" step on fwd pedal nothing happens. Wheel want move.

I would probably check voltage at the pedal pots and make sure your getting the proper voltage range through the pedal travel. You could go right to the TCU and verify it there also.
It’s too bad that the 110 doesn’t have a display like the 3 and 4 series so you can read those values right from the display.

Edit...ok I see that the pedals calibrated, so they are probably working....but I would still check with a meter. You could series in a meter with the coils and see is the TCU is supplying current.

 

Are you sure you don’t have whats called the “MFWD” sensor? I thought all eHydro machines had to have them?

 

Yes I do have a MFWD sensor and it was replaced. That sensor is located on transaxle.

I'm missing something in the calibration sequence or the controller is bad.

I'm following the calibration sequence to the "T" and it want move the wheels. I question my technical manual because it doesn't mention anything about not having a flywheel sensor and my 110 doesn't have one.


I get to the point . . - - raise engine to fast idle, put trans in "A", step on fwd pedal.
Status light . . - - wheel should move in 30 seconds ............. it doesn't

 

Check all your connections before replacing the controller. This includes at the battery, chassis ground, fuses and / or circuit breakers and controller connections. Something as simple as some high resistance in a power or ground circuit will cause the issues you've mentioned.

 

Update..

Found a guy on another forum that was at the same place I'm at with mine. Texted him and he said he had a faulty wire going to inch lever and john deere dealer had to reprogram controller.

I've checked every wire going to hst controller for voltage, ground, feedback from pot and everything is good.

One thing I wanted to check is what makes the neutral relay "K9" function. I have 12 volts from the hst controller to K9, not sure if it's a problem or not. Don't see a neutral switch anywhere.

 

Still not getting anywhere......

I was correct in that there is no engine speed sensor, it uses the alternator signal for engine speed.

I drove it in the shop, I've put 12 volts to the coils and it turns the wheels.

I've removed the coils for fwd / rev and they read 4 ohms, there's 3.7 ohms stamped on the side of the coils. The manual says they should read 6 to 7 ohms. Not sure about this. Any advice?

 

Back Working Now!!!

Controller was bad, replaced controller completed the calibration all is good now.

 

Thanks for the update.

 

Yes-thanks! Far too many come here with issues and after a post or two disappear leaving us with no closure or idea if anything we suggested helped or what the issue actually was...