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3025E and 6 foot finish mower pto drive shaft length?

7K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  rtgt  
#1 ·
Short question: How long should the pto drive shaft be for a 3025E using a 6 foot finish mower?

Longer question/explanation: I have a 3025E that I bought new just about a year ago. To this point in my farm tractor life I've never had to worry about PTO shafts as all the used implements/attachments I'd purchased came with one that worked fine. However, I recently bought a 6 foot finish mower, and that shaft that came with it is at least a few inches too short. I didn't realize that until I went to use it and it came apart one I turned the PTO on. Opps! That's what I get for assuming. It appears that once the mower is on the ground, only an inch or so is still connected of the shaft, and once it starts spinning that's not enough to stay together. So I went to TSC and bought a new shaft. That in itself was an adventure. Many seemed too short, and I ended up settling for one that is 40 inches or so while compressed. Problem is that's too long to even put on by an inch or two, and appears to be about 8 inches too long if the mower is fully raised. I did some online research, and apparently it's a common practice to have to shorten these things to fix the exact measurements of your tractor or equipment. However, online also recommended finding the manufacturers recommends specs, and I've looked but haven't yet found said information directly from JD. So here are my more in depth questions.
1) What length should the shaft be? Or do I determine that simply by measuring
2) To compare length, at what point are these shafts actually measured from. End to end? Or do you start/end at some other point on the shaft for measuring
3) I do not currently have a band saw that functions, but I've a chop saw, though I need to buy a blade for it. It seems fairly straight forward, if I need to take say 8 inches off, I take 4 inches off of each 1/2, trim the plastic accordingly, file the edges, and put back together. And I missing anything?

Thanks in advance for any input. And please don't hesitate to answer/point out anything important that I may have missed. Thanks again!
 
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#9 ·
:bigthumb:

So now all we need are some pictures....
 
#8 ·
Thanks all for the advice and suggestions. Using what I learned I measured and cut (after measuring a 2nd and 3rd time!) about 5 1/2 inches off both parts of the shaft, and the covers of course. Now it's working exactly as it should. Thanks again for all the help!
 
#7 ·
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#5 ·
forphase1, you are on the right track.

I don't know if it was covered or not, but setup the mower for the shortest distance possible, including shorting up the top link as much as can be. If the mower has a floating top link (likely), you may need to also put a jack under the back of the mower to collapse the floating link.

Fiddle with it and keep measuring between the ends of the shafts till you have the shortest dimension possible.

When I cut my shaft for the rotary cutter I took it apart and connected one half to the tractor and one half to the cutter so I could see / measure the overlap.

BEFORE I cut the shafts, I lowered the deck and set it up for the longest possible length and with the shafts connected at each end I measured the overlap again, subtracting what I would be cutting off. There is a minimum overlap as well.

I cannot remember the minimum overlap, but it depends on the overall shaft length. I had what I needed and plenty to spare.

Once I cut the shaft, I put it together, setup the cutter for the shortest possible length and connected the shaft to the mower end only and made sure it collapsed enough to not bottom out.

I cut a little more that what I actually measured to allow for goop and grease buildup inside the tube and a "just in case factor".

Measure, measure, measure. Cut once. :good2:
 
#4 ·
Not sure what other implements you have...

You may be able to "borrow" the tractor side part of the shaft from say a Tiller or Bush hog and only have to cut one end of your New drive line...saving the unused portion for whatever down the road.

If there compatable patterns.

Old school was rectangular shaft...newer seems to be the triangular/rounded in various diameters.

I'll look at the YT you mentioned as I'm always willing to learn...your never too old.

:cheers:...and let us know how it goes/went.

Dan in Oregon
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the input so far. There is actually a really good video on how to cut/trim your PTO shaft if needed in this thread. So unless someone can give me a specific length needed, tomorrow I'm going to measure and cut that 40 inch shaft down to the length I need I think.

PTO Shafts. The Good, Bad, and the Ugly

And to answer a question or two, no, not using any quick hitch type system. And I considered using an overrun adapter with the shaft that was a bit too short, but decided I'd rather just get a new shaft for this mower.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
A couple possible options.

Are you useing a I match quick Hitch??

If so..Remove it and gain 4" +-

If not...You can get a over run adapter ( typicly used on 8n ,9N tractors)

This will slip over your tractor pto shaft and extend it further/farther out by 4" +-


Obviously you can replace the drive shaft with a new one.
Which apparently you have done......my bad.

Ensure that your drive shaft can never bottom out...( in the full up down position of mower).serious damage may/can result. This can be a bit trickey do figure in all the possible scenarious of your use. May have to park rear tractor wheels on some blocks so you can lower the 3 point arms to there bottom most point.
Also ....picture you just drove through a ditch ( why ...who knows it just happens)..now mower is up at an extreme angle...yea I've did it. I have no flat ground.
Just take in to account all possible situations and cut.

You can always cut it shorter....its gonna be hard to add any length but the pic below can solve that.


Over run adapter pic if this works out

Image