This is a technically trivial, but a bit difficult due to the weight and roundness of the rear tires.
But an old fat dude did it by himself without much drama:

No disrespect to the old fat guy. I too and old and fat. Just adding that for context

 

I just put wheel spacers on a 4066r with loaded (big) tires a few months back all by myself. Did one side at a time, used a bottle jack which I found to be way more controllable than a floor jack. Jack up wheel until its almost about to come off the ground. Loosen all wheel bolts, jack slowly till bolts can almost be removed by hand. Wiggle the tire off and to the side. Install spacer. Mine had studs, so I wiggled it back in place and it took some work with my knees and a broomstick to rotate the hub, but was able to line up the studs. Carefully wiggle the tire on to the top stud and let the jack lift up to settle the rim back plumb. If you are using wheel bolts, you can make an alignment stud out of threaded rod Take it slow, and good luck.

 

I just installed them on my 3039R with loaded tires. I did cheat, my tractor has a backhoe and the outriggers / stabilizers made it super easy. But a jack will do the same thing.

 

I did this recently myself, installing Stahl 2.5” steel spacers on a 3033r w loaded tires. I used a floor jack to lift the rear of the tractor and set jack stands under each axle. I positioned a motorcycle lift under a tire and raised the motorcycle lift just enough to offload the wheel. After removing the wheel bolts I could easily roll the motorcycle lift and tire away from the tractor. I secured the wheel on the motorcycle lift w a ratchet strap which ensured the wheel/tire remained upright. Then it was a simple task to bolt on the spacer, roll the motorcycle lift right back in, lining up the bolt holes, and bolting the wheel back onto the spacer. Then repeat for the other side. Literally took a handful of minutes per wheel.

 

 

Thanks for all the input guys. This is why I love this forum. Always people willing to help share good advice.

 

@Ogarret I didn't mention it, but I jacked up the tractor just high enough to remove the wheels, rolled them out of the way, you have to go back and forth a couple times to work it out of the fender/axle. Then rolled them into place after the spacers were installed and adjusted the height of the axle to remount. It was no where near as hard as I anticipated. Just don't let that tire fall over while it's off.

 

Yes - good advice!

 

All good points have already been made regarding lifting each side only enough to get that tire off the ground. I’ve seen guys use spade shovels or big pry bars/lady foot to help dismount and mount the wheel.

Make sure you have something in place to block the front wheels. Having the parking break and MFWD engaged are always helpful in this type of situation (unless for some reason you have to rotate the axle).

The one comment I would add is to either use a thread locking compound and/or a locknut on the backside of the wheel bolts - if yours are long enough. For my 3046R they were M14x1.50 (pitch) 30mm Lug Bolts, so you will probably want 35mm or longer if you’re going to use locknuts on the backside of the axle/wheel.

*103lb/ft torque on the spacer hardware and wheel lug bolts.

 

Will spacers complete. See below for before and after. Was not nearly as hard as I expected. I did have another person helping so that made it go really quick. About 30 minutes to do both.

 

Looks good. Double check your wheel torque in a few hours, especially since you has painted the mating surfaces. I went through a whole debacle with that a few months back.

 

I actually did not paint mine haha but have heard stories. Mine were the bora aluminum and the finish looked good so I left them alone.

 

Sorry got your post mixed up with another on the thread. Yes those aluminum spacer do look nice!

 

Correct. Apparently the paint can be a prohibitor for correct threading and can loosen over time because of it.

 

Yeh I would highly suggest filling any threads with bolts on anything you plan on painting. If not you’re just asking for some kind of trouble and/or failure.

Good eye. When I ordered the spacers from Motorsport-tech.com, I specifically requested solid centers. Looks more like stock and adds a bit more weight. Took 12 weeks from the time I placed my order to receive them.

That’s where I ordered mine and they were solid centers.

 

I wonder why john deere paints their hubs then?

 

They don’t paint the area where the lug nuts go in.

 

Hey Olden Slowe… I see your Stahl spacers don’t have a center hub hole (donut hole)… exactly what I want. I’ve only Seen spacer Bora & Stahl spacers with the big center hole.

Did you have to order this special? I have not ordered spacers because I didn’t like the open cavity between the wheel and spacer caused by open hole spacers (understand???)

If I can get spacers like yours in your “spray booth” photo, I’ll order them tomorrow!!

 

I believe you can order most of them closed center but likely are not an in stock option.