Welcome to GTT
Is your tractor a '72 4320 or a '73 4230? No 4320's were built in '73
Jim

 

Sorry, my mistake. She's a beautiful '71 4320, not a '73.

DO NOT DRAW BOTH HALVES TOGETHER WITH BOLTS or a come-along

Great advise. Beyond the pto shaft alignment, and "you-idiot-you-let-that-random-hose-get-pinched-between-the-halves" stuff, are there any other common parts that get misaligned preventing an easy rejoin? (IOW, what should I be checking for before rejoining?)

 

IRRC no need to drain trans oil .If not utilizing a stand bolted to each side frame put wedge blocks on each side of frt axle to keep engine from tipping sideways. Replace seal on pto input shaft Use 2 long bolts with heads removed for guides to help align both halves upon reassembly. Turn flywheel with pry bar through engine timing hole as halves are getting close together to help align trans & pto drive shafts. I probably left out something since it's been since '87 when I quite being a JD dealer service manager

DO NOT DRAW BOTH HALVES TOGETHER WITH BOLTS or a come-along
HTH'sJim

 

TX JIM gives good advice. Make sure not to force the two halves back together.

I would also change the pilot bearing while it is apart. Also, be sure to check the surface on the flywheel for cracks or scores. You may want to have it resurfaced. Like TX JIM, it has been longer since I have been inside one the clutches, but I would replace the springs, inner and outer, along with the pressure plates also.

 

Welcome to GTT!

I would definitely split the tractor and do it myself. It's not at all that hard, intimidating for the first time yes, but very doable. I find it much easier to split a tractor to do a clutch than it is on a full size pickup truck. If you can do that, you can easily handle the clutch on your tractor. :thumbup1gif:

You need good jackstands, some good cribbing (preferably 6x6's) and some easy rolling floor jacks. Take your time, and don't force anything when putting it back together.

 

The video isn't that great, but it might help you.

 

BTW, SvdSinner, Welcome to GTT.

 

25 hours is pretty high for a clutch unless you have extra equipment in the way that needs to be removed and reinstalled( cab, loader etc.) 12 - 14 would be more fair. TxJim is correct, no oil needs to be drained to split. You will lose maybe a gallon or two from line disconnects, but draining oil won't help that. Deere actually makes a kit to improve pto clutch engagement. Get part number AR63607. It includes counter weighted pto fingers for the clutch pack, some new return springs for pto bearing, and check ball and spring for pto control valve. It makes a huge difference in clutch engagement. Putting a new clutch in without this kit will not help with engagement.

 

Do any of the parts in the AR63607 overlap with the the standard Clutch Kit parts? Or beyond that, should I be buying the entire clutch kit? It seems to be a pretty cut and dry case of wearing out the clutch plate. The remainder of the tractor is in great shape, and it has already had it's transmission replaced by a previous owner. (It has one of the new ones with a 3rd reverse gear on the 3rd range.) Are there any of these clutch parts that are worth looking into used parts? I don't mind spending $$ on replacing anything that should be replaced, but there are many $100s between "replace everything with shiny new" and just replacing the clutch discs.

I noticed some places selling a 4320 Clutch tool. Is it worth acquiring?

 

jd110
I think OP is on vacation but I'd still like to know if tractor in question is a '72 4320 or '73 4230??????

 

Without the clutch alignment tool, you'll be very hard pressed to get the clutch disk properly lined up when you fasten the pressure plate down. The clutches I've gotten from JD did not include that alignment tool.

 

I would recommend getting both tools if you don't have a universal alignment tool to use. The type of disk is personal preference depending on how you plan to use the tractor. I personally prefer the "woven" or fiber type disks. They give smoother operation and just as long of life for most conditions. The metallic "button" style disks are more aggressive engaging and provide long life if they are not slipped. If you need to feather the clutch a lot, you will wear out pressure plate and flywheel surfaces quickly.

 

Reinstalling the clutch

So, I hit my first main snag. (Beyond scheduling time to get it done issues)

I've got the tractor split about 18-24", have replaced the old parts, and am starting to reassemble.

My issue is simply figuring out a way to mount the clutch back into the flywheel. It's not complex, but the clutch assembly is so heavy I can't get it simultaneously aligned and lifted.
I tried hoisting it, but wires I lifted it with got in the way of aligning it.

I gave up on trying to get the whole clutch pack in at once and am trying to put it together piece by piece in the flywheel. This begins much better, but after the drive disk, the clutch plate, the springs get in and the next plate, they are sticking out well beyond where they need to be, and I am fearing that without pre-assembling it and pre-tightening the springs, I'll never be able to get all the parts in tight enough to bolt the end plate on.

I'm kind of at a fork in the road with two major options:

1. Go back to installing it pre-assembled. I can split the tractor another 2 feet so that I can try to put the full assembly on while standing right in front of the flywheel. (The reason I can lift it and align it right now is because I''m trying to hold it out in front of me which is tremendously harder than holding it near my body.
2. I can continue down the 1-piece at a time strategy and try to fabricate some kind of clamps to squeeze the springs enough to get the cover plate on.

I'd really appreciate any advise on which method has worked for you guys to get the clutch reinstalled into the flywheel. Are there any good methods to lift the full assembly into place? Or, are their any secrets to getting everything packed in if I do it piece by piece?

NOTE: I can have a second guy help me, but not a knowledgable second guy. (Just a buddy who's done a bit of car repair and is mildly intimidated by this project.) If there is a way to do it with two people, he'll do it if he has really clear instructions on what he needs to do.

 

Not to sound rude, but how hard can it be to push one half a little further away to give yourself some more room? :unknown: Is something still connected? Not enough room behind or in front of the tractor?

 

Splitting it farther to get more room is certainly an option. I just didn't want to take the time and effort to do it if assembling piece by piece was the correct way to go. (I've got a dirt floor in the barn I'm working, so it's considerably harder to roll than across smooth concrete.)

My main challenge is knowing which path to take. If pre-assembling is the key, I can happily split it further.

 

I would recommend installing in one piece. Trying to align all of the springs and plates while flywheel is attached to tractor is challenging but possible if you use 3 pieces of 3/8" all -thread and nuts. screw the threaded rods (maybe 6" long)into the flywheel in every other hole. Stack all the parts into the flywheel and slide the outer cover over the three long studs. then thread three nuts on evenly untill springs are compressed enough to start three of the original cover bolts in the other three holes. Be careful that all plates and springs are properly aligned as you tighten everything up. You also need to have the clutch alignment tool in place at the same time to keep clutch disk centered.

If you decide to assemble pressure plate first, I would recommend removing the flywheel and laying it flat on the floor to stack parts flat and assemble as I described above. If you dont assemble in the flywheel, the slots and holes in plates won't align with pins in flywheel very well. Then when pressure plate is assembled in flywheel, put nuts back on adjusting screws and remove assembled unit from flywheel, reinstall flywheel, then install disk and assembled pressure plate in the flywheel.