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"89-90 2155 John Deere

29K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  Zebrafive  
#1 ·
I'm looking for some info on a John Deere 2155 year model 1989-1990. It has a little over 3100 hours. Just wondering about how you all feel about this particular model. Were there any issues. I know I'm not giving much info for you but I have a friend, a real friend wanting to sell his because he truely lives in a place where he no longer needs it. He bought it with about 5 or 600 hours on it from a guy I actually also know. So, I know the history of the tractor in that respect but don't know anything about those models. He is asking 10,500 with a Woods cutter and box blade (neither one I actually need because I have those already). What about the hours, too many for that price? I know the $$ is negotiable, he pretty much indicated that to me. I really don't NEED the tractor, I have an older 2040 but knowing this tractor somewhat I am thinking it may be a good deal. Thoughts?
 
#2 · (Edited)
My apple farmer neighbor has a couple of 2155's among his fleet of "acquired used" tractors. He uses the 2155's for spraying. I helped him get one of them going a couple of years ago. It was pretty rough when he dragged it home. Had about 6500 hours on it then. Replaced the seat, water pump, belt, battery & exhaust on it. Changed all the filters and fluids and got it running. After putting another 50-100 hours on it he replaced the tires and that's about it. Still going strong. It's a nice rig. When he initially purchased it his thought was to use it as a parts machine but now it's one of his flagship tractors, comparatively speaking.

:greentractorride: :good2:
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the opinions/info boys. I thought I had read somewhere before that that series was considered a good one for JD. Anyone else have any opinions with what info I have given you. I do know the original guy that bought it new decided he wanted a larger tractor and that is how my friend got it in "91. I haven't seen it up close in a few years but it has been shed kept and now actually in a metal shop. So, I don't expect it to be weather beaten or anything. Still looking for opinions on price at $10500 which again includes a Woods cutter and boxblade and of it has almost 3200 hrs. Thanks!
 
#5 ·
For me a it would DEPEND if it had the synchronized transmission or the collar shift transmission.

I do not think the price it too bad. When I bought my 2030 22 years ago I paid $8K, no attachments. New these (2155) were about $18K

At the time I would have loved to have been able to buy a 2x50 or 2x55 series JD :flag_of_truce:. I agree with TxJim, great utility tractors.

My 2030 had 3K hours on it when I bought it.

I'd like to find a 2350/2355 or 2550/2555 with mfwd to upgrade from the 2030
 
#8 ·
Ok, thanks again for sharing your thoughts. He and I work at the same school and I'm going to go look at it one afternoon this week and I'll have a little more specifics about the tractor. Anyone else have any comments or things I should look for or check?
:laugh: yeah-when u go look at it, take a pic for us guys-ok. or u can take the pic of u riding home:lol: kidding aside--i hope u do get this tractor as like u said u know it--pretty much since it was new. good luck.:munch:
 
#10 ·
Well boys, I finally got a chance to look at the 2155. I wasn't disappointed in the tractor at all. It's not quite as clean as my 2040 but it was fine. However, we had it running about the entire time I was there. I played around with it and all seemed fine except there was a constant smoke coming from the exhaust. My friend was concerned about that and said it had never done that. He had sprayed it off with the water hose before I got there and he was wondering if that could have something to do with it or if it was because he just hasn't used it in awhile. We took the hood off and checked for any oil burning off but there was no leak anywhere. The smoke wasn't so much coming from the top exhaust as it was the smaller exhaust that runs down the side. He doesn't want me to even make a decision until he figures out what is causing that. Like I said earlier, we are friends and I understand him wanting to check this out. My question is, could the spraying off with the hose have caused that. It never offered to run hot or anything like that. Thanks
 
#11 ·
Smaller exhaust running down the side, do you mean the engine breather? It's a rigid tube that come off the valve cover and runs down the left side of the engine just in front of the clutch bellhousing.

If the breather is smoking a lot, that's generally not a good sign. If the tractor hasn't been used or worked hard for a while, it could be stuck or gummed up rings. But if it continues to smoke or have a lot of gasses come out, then most likely the rings are worn or broken.

My suggestion is to go run the tractor for a while under a load. This will clean up any normal build-up from lack of running or excessive idling. If it continues it'll need a minimum of a top end overhaul to repair.

Take this with a grain of salt. It's not an exact science to troubleshoot a machine over the Internet without pictures, videos, and all the details. :good2:
 
#12 ·
Did you look at the oil on the dipstick? Another thing that can cause a lot of smoke or actually steam in this case would be water or coolant in the oil. If he had the oil fill cap off when washing, he could have gotten water in the crankcase. More likely if coolant is leaking in crankcase through cylinder liners or possible bad head gasket. The oil should look milky or gray if water or coolant is in the oil.
 
#13 ·
My over 4,000 hour 2030 has a LOT of blow by, but NOT smoke, from the vent tube. I mainly brush hog and do loader/grapple work with it. If it is worked hard the blow by will disappear for awhile.
 
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#14 ·
Dieselshadow called it a engine breather and Zebrafive referred to it as the vent tube. Either way, that is where the smoke or steam is coming out. My friend, like myself, is not a mechanic either but he stopped by yesterday to let me know that was called a vent tube but he didn't say what he had found out or if he had figured out why that was happening. I will go back by and check the oil like jd110 suggested but I'm not jumping to fast yet on this tractor because as I said earlier, I don't NEED the tractor but I am interested in it. Thanks boys for your replies. I learn something every time I log on. Thanks!
 
#15 ·
Breather, vent tube = same thing. :good2:
 
#16 ·
Videos on minor maintenance for John Deere 2155

I have posted some videos as I have hacked my way through working on my John Deere 2155. I love this machine. Everything seems to be put together well and comes apart and goes back together in a very logical manner...

John Deere 2155 maintenance videos

I will post more as I do more. I just found out that the impeller on the 2155 water pump was made from plastic and the new replacement from John Deere is now metal. I have been working through some heat issues this summer. I know the thermostat was not working properly, radiator is/was very dirty but still has good flow. Will post some videos as the water pump comes off and what I find inside...it may have been changed already.

The Deere 2155 is a work horse...just love it.
 
#17 · (Edited)
2155. 175
Looking to buy this tractor can I tell by the Vin number if it has differential lock and How do I tell which transmission is in this one
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We are looking at purchasing this tractor it has a disk and a brush mower that goes with it and of course the front loader I think he said it's a 91 is asking 12.5 for it it has new tires it appears to be in good shape I can't read the hours because the classes all fog over is that a fair price
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Anyone??
 
#18 ·
First I would start a NEW THREAD

I think all will have the differential lock. It will be a combination of a hand lever and foot pedal on the left side floor board.

A John Deere dealer should be able to run the tractor serial number (right side frame above front axle) and tell you the transmission. So should the owner.

It could have Four possible transmissions:
CS = Collar Shift 4 speeds and two forward ranges (total 8 forward speeds) and one reverse range (4 reverse speeds) with CS you MUST not be moving AND clutch to change gears or ranges and forward/reverse.

CS w/Reverser = Collar Shift with Reverser. It will have 4 speeds, two ranges for both forward and reverse. A lever on left dash that you can shift to forward or reverse without using the clutch , on the go (not stopping). You still must stop and clutch to change gears or ranges.

TSS = Top Shaft Synchronized. 4 speeds, two forward ranges (total 8 forward speeds) and one reverse range ( 4 reverse speed) With TSS, you can clutch and shift gears on the go, but must stop and clutch to shift ranges or forward/reverse

TSS w/HI-LO: Same as TSS with addition of HI-LO (also called "Rabbit-Turtle) which is lever on left side of the dash. That can be move on the go, without stopping or clutching from either Hi to Lo or LO to high. It is almost the same as down shifting one gear. If you are in 4th gear HI (same as TSS 4th gear) and you move the lever to LO, it is almost the same as down shifting to 3rd gear, just not quite as low). Shifting back to HI and you are in the selected gear (no increase for the sear)

There was also an optional creeper transmission that lowered the gears for the first range of the two forwards ranges.
 

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#19 ·
A simple compression test will tell the condition of the top end of the engine.
 
#27 ·
That's a very close guesstimation according to my FIL, the hour meter didn't work for 5 years but he finally had it fixed because he was tired of doing service work by estimation. The hour meter is showing 13,000 +. Anyway you slice it that tractor has been a work horse for nearly 30 years and repairs have been minimal other than routine maintenance, tires and the already mentioned head gaskets.
 
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#28 ·
Red wire may have something to do with 4wd not having a switch.

Usually a solenoid, that when powered,disengages 4wd. So if not power you're in 4wd all the time.

I'll trade you a nice 2030 with no 4wd issues (it's 2wd) :mocking: oh, you can keep the loader, I don't need it.
 
#31 ·
Go to the section you want to start a new thread in and click (don't click a thread from that section) It will open and list all threads for that page. At top is "start new thread" button