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Discussion starter · #61 ·
JoeFriday. I assume you know that you could order your MDA precut to fit your 60" mower deck discharge opening. I needed a longer hose as previously mentioned; today they often provide an 8" hose diameter for all units except the CR Classic model. I needed a 7" diameter because my original hose was 7" diameter-and it must be that diameter to fit the impeller input to the Blower that is part of the CR engine I have. I believe, depending on the CR model you're getting it may be an 8" diameter hose. I believe the 7" hose diameter now is only available on the CR Classic model-in 2006 a 7" hose was available on both the Classic & Pro models. My original setup was called a Cyclone Rake Pro. They offer precut MDA opening and hose length so you may not have to cut anything (I'm not sure what the upcharge for that is). They typically don't offer the precut MDA for a 7"hose diameter EXCEPT if it's for a 1025R model. If I had needed a new MDA I would have had that done. It's an option, I believe, for all 8" hoses. That may be of interest to you if you're concerned about cutting the MDA opening yourself.
Thanks JD....I will ask tomorrow/today...
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
I was able to call first thing this morning and upgrade to the 'Diamond Blue' Steel Liner..... phew.... they had just loaded my unit components onto the truck to ship out..... but were able to remove them and are going to swap out the blower housing with upgraded Liner and re-load on the truck.
 
I have had a cr for a very long time live in a sandy area replaced everything on the original one then gave that to my son and ordered a new one, I hate drilling holes into new equipment as I got a new tractor and deck (2025r) with 60 inch deck I made my own bracket using the two bolts that hold the deflector on and the pre drilled holes from factory works very well and no drilling.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
I have had a cr for a very long time live in a sandy area replaced everything on the original one then gave that to my son and ordered a new one, I hate drilling holes into new equipment as I got a new tractor and deck (2025r) with 60 inch deck I made my own bracket using the two bolts that hold the deflector on and the pre drilled holes from factory works very well and no drilling.
Can you post a close-up detailed photo of your adapter and bracket? thanks
 
Picture with holes #1&2 they go on existing holes on the deck for the defector shield.
#3 is put to the existing hole in the deck from factory
last picture is the best i could get it shows existing hole from factory.
that's what I used and it works. The plate I used is about 1/16.
 

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I have been looking at tow behind leaf vacuums for my John Deere 1025R. I have whittled it down to the DR Leaf Vacuum or the Cyclone Rake. (Trac Vac doesn't appeal to me because they use a rigid, all metal storage box, and the engine, etc are not configured in a modular way that can be removed for storage)

Here are my thoughts and research bullet points thus far.... can anyone share their experiences, and suggestions on which way to go? Thanks.


I am curious why people choose the 'Cyclone Rake' over the 'DR Leaf Vacuum?' I am looking at both, and there seems to be a few downsides to the Cyclone Rake:
  1. Cyclone rake often requires you physically 'drill' holes into an otherwise virgin deck...... the DR Leaf Vacuum uses hardware which utilizes the John Deere 60D chute flapper hardware.... just slide a retaining pin through the DR hardware and through the aligning JD chute flapper hardware - - NO DRILL HOLES on the DR unit.
  2. The Cyclone Rake has a 'fixed' configuration with swivel wheels.... so, when you round a corner, the entire unti flys backward at the same angle of the tractor, staying in alignment with the tractor, which means that the Cyclone Rake can 'kick outwards' and hit obstructions such as corners of buildings, landscape retaining walls, and other obstructions....... the DR Leaf Vacuum uses a traditional 'hinged' hitch tongue and so follows the tractor turns instead of being a rigid extension of the tractor.
  3. DR Leaf Vacuum has a removable engine mounted to a wheeled frame... so you can easily disconnect it and wheel the engine into it's own storage spot and potentially save floor space room.... everything is collapsible and can store away easily.... and the base cart can be used as a utility garden cart that can store up to 800 lbs of material.... so, it is like you get an extra implement in the purchase.
On the DR Leaf Vacuum downside: They use a DR engineered/designed RATO small engine..... which is manufactured in China. It does have a low oil sensor to prevent low oil engine damage.... but, it is CHINESE...... the Cyclone Rake uses a Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine which I believe is either made in the USA or Japan.... but it isn't a Chinese product.

Any thoughts??

Thanks.
Last year I went through the same dilemma; in the end I purchased the DR Premier and I'm extremely happy with it. I am required to make many tight turns and it seemed to me that it would be infinitely harder to do with the Cyclone extending the length of my machine. One suggestion, I would recommend buying the extension wand for working around trees and sucking up blown piles of leaves/debris, it works amazingly well. I would also suggest ordering the pre-fabbed chute from Trac-Vac for your unit, I've permanently mounted mine to the deck, now I just push the pin through the mounting brackets and start cleaning up the yard. Also, get the trailer jack mfg'ed by DR, it's custom built for their unit and makes it really easy to manipulate tool around your storage area or simply putting it in place to mount.

Good luck, either way you go.
 
I have been looking at tow behind leaf vacuums for my John Deere 1025R. I have whittled it down to the DR Leaf Vacuum or the Cyclone Rake. (Trac Vac doesn't appeal to me because they use a rigid, all metal storage box, and the engine, etc are not configured in a modular way that can be removed for storage)

Here are my thoughts and research bullet points thus far.... can anyone share their experiences, and suggestions on which way to go? Thanks.


I am curious why people choose the 'Cyclone Rake' over the 'DR Leaf Vacuum?' I am looking at both, and there seems to be a few downsides to the Cyclone Rake:
  1. Cyclone rake often requires you physically 'drill' holes into an otherwise virgin deck...... the DR Leaf Vacuum uses hardware which utilizes the John Deere 60D chute flapper hardware.... just slide a retaining pin through the DR hardware and through the aligning JD chute flapper hardware - - NO DRILL HOLES on the DR unit.
  2. The Cyclone Rake has a 'fixed' configuration with swivel wheels.... so, when you round a corner, the entire unti flys backward at the same angle of the tractor, staying in alignment with the tractor, which means that the Cyclone Rake can 'kick outwards' and hit obstructions such as corners of buildings, landscape retaining walls, and other obstructions....... the DR Leaf Vacuum uses a traditional 'hinged' hitch tongue and so follows the tractor turns instead of being a rigid extension of the tractor.
  3. DR Leaf Vacuum has a removable engine mounted to a wheeled frame... so you can easily disconnect it and wheel the engine into it's own storage spot and potentially save floor space room.... everything is collapsible and can store away easily.... and the base cart can be used as a utility garden cart that can store up to 800 lbs of material.... so, it is like you get an extra implement in the purchase.
On the DR Leaf Vacuum downside: They use a DR engineered/designed RATO small engine..... which is manufactured in China. It does have a low oil sensor to prevent low oil engine damage.... but, it is CHINESE...... the Cyclone Rake uses a Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine which I believe is either made in the USA or Japan.... but it isn't a Chinese product.

Any thoughts??

Thanks.
 
I have been looking at tow behind leaf vacuums for my John Deere 1025R. I have whittled it down to the DR Leaf Vacuum or the Cyclone Rake. (Trac Vac doesn't appeal to me because they use a rigid, all metal storage box, and the engine, etc are not configured in a modular way that can be removed for storage)

Here are my thoughts and research bullet points thus far.... can anyone share their experiences, and suggestions on which way to go? Thanks.


I am curious why people choose the 'Cyclone Rake' over the 'DR Leaf Vacuum?' I am looking at both, and there seems to be a few downsides to the Cyclone Rake:
  1. Cyclone rake often requires you physically 'drill' holes into an otherwise virgin deck...... the DR Leaf Vacuum uses hardware which utilizes the John Deere 60D chute flapper hardware.... just slide a retaining pin through the DR hardware and through the aligning JD chute flapper hardware - - NO DRILL HOLES on the DR unit.
  2. The Cyclone Rake has a 'fixed' configuration with swivel wheels.... so, when you round a corner, the entire unti flys backward at the same angle of the tractor, staying in alignment with the tractor, which means that the Cyclone Rake can 'kick outwards' and hit obstructions such as corners of buildings, landscape retaining walls, and other obstructions....... the DR Leaf Vacuum uses a traditional 'hinged' hitch tongue and so follows the tractor turns instead of being a rigid extension of the tractor.
  3. DR Leaf Vacuum has a removable engine mounted to a wheeled frame... so you can easily disconnect it and wheel the engine into it's own storage spot and potentially save floor space room.... everything is collapsible and can store away easily.... and the base cart can be used as a utility garden cart that can store up to 800 lbs of material.... so, it is like you get an extra implement in the purchase.
On the DR Leaf Vacuum downside: They use a DR engineered/designed RATO small engine..... which is manufactured in China. It does have a low oil sensor to prevent low oil engine damage.... but, it is CHINESE...... the Cyclone Rake uses a Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine which I believe is either made in the USA or Japan.... but it isn't a Chinese product.

Any thoughts??

Thanks.
I bought the DR vac 2 years ago. The engine is STRONG, no problem with that. However, the 8" hose has been a real problem. It flexes turning both directions and eventually splits. I contacted DR and they asked for photos of how I had this connected. I sent them. All my lengths and connections were fine. Yet hose splits easy. DR sent me a free hose, lasted for a few a season and split again. Electrical and duct tape got me 1/2 way through another season but soon the hose was junk. They cost $129.00. I see a few diff brands on amazon costing as much as $300, but not sure they are any better. ALSO, the canvas container stitched seams started unraveling and leaves would blow out as they were vac'd up. I put small tie wraps in the canvas to seal these seams up. All in all I am not happy with this unit.
 
I have been looking at tow behind leaf vacuums for my John Deere 1025R. I have whittled it down to the DR Leaf Vacuum or the Cyclone Rake. (Trac Vac doesn't appeal to me because they use a rigid, all metal storage box, and the engine, etc are not configured in a modular way that can be removed for storage)

Here are my thoughts and research bullet points thus far.... can anyone share their experiences, and suggestions on which way to go? Thanks.


I am curious why people choose the 'Cyclone Rake' over the 'DR Leaf Vacuum?' I am looking at both, and there seems to be a few downsides to the Cyclone Rake:
  1. Cyclone rake often requires you physically 'drill' holes into an otherwise virgin deck...... the DR Leaf Vacuum uses hardware which utilizes the John Deere 60D chute flapper hardware.... just slide a retaining pin through the DR hardware and through the aligning JD chute flapper hardware - - NO DRILL HOLES on the DR unit.
  2. The Cyclone Rake has a 'fixed' configuration with swivel wheels.... so, when you round a corner, the entire unti flys backward at the same angle of the tractor, staying in alignment with the tractor, which means that the Cyclone Rake can 'kick outwards' and hit obstructions such as corners of buildings, landscape retaining walls, and other obstructions....... the DR Leaf Vacuum uses a traditional 'hinged' hitch tongue and so follows the tractor turns instead of being a rigid extension of the tractor.
  3. DR Leaf Vacuum has a removable engine mounted to a wheeled frame... so you can easily disconnect it and wheel the engine into it's own storage spot and potentially save floor space room.... everything is collapsible and can store away easily.... and the base cart can be used as a utility garden cart that can store up to 800 lbs of material.... so, it is like you get an extra implement in the purchase.
On the DR Leaf Vacuum downside: They use a DR engineered/designed RATO small engine..... which is manufactured in China. It does have a low oil sensor to prevent low oil engine damage.... but, it is CHINESE...... the Cyclone Rake uses a Briggs & Stratton Vanguard engine which I believe is either made in the USA or Japan.... but it isn't a Chinese product.

Any thoughts??

Thanks.
Joe Friday
I have a JD rear bagger off of a 1026R, I traded it in for a brand new 1025R and the bagger will not fit the newer style mower deck. Per the salesman, if your mower deck is mid 2019 or older, it will fit.
 
I know that the OP has made his decision so the discussion is pretty much over, but little was said about the DR lawn vacs and I have some experience that I'd like to share for those going through this same decision process.

I bought the largest model DR at the time I was in the market seven years ago, the DR Pro-XL. My tractor is a JD 1023E with a three-point hitch, so it seemed like a good fit, and I needed something big, as my username implies, I have 5 acres or so of fields/lawns surrounded by trees and clearing all those leaves was a pain. I also sometimes end up with much taller than ideal "grass" in the fields, and sometimes have to pick it up as it won't mulch and disappear.

In general, the DR has worked well. The engine starts and runs reliably, though the battery died and I never replaced it because the starter or start switch had quit working. I never looked into why, though, as it starts on the second pull every time. Recently, one of the muffler bolts just spontaneously broke off with not so much as hint of warning, so the muffler is hanging with just one nut/bolt. No biggie as long as I keep that one nut tight and don't break it off. It's kind of a big disassembly if I ever do lose that second muffler bolt as the blower housing is right next to the muffler and would have to be removed.

I do have two bigger concerns with my DR, though. The first is that my 1023 diesel engine is reasonably powerful and if I do something silly like drive under the clothes line with the roll bar up, I don't even know that the lines got snagged until I see the clothesline 4x4 support poles snapped off dragging behind me. So, what has this got to do with the DR Vac? Remembering that mine is 7 years old I'll put this out there not knowing if the current offerings are still made the same way.

The trailer bed on the DR is plastic. That plastic is somewhat brittle, and very unforgiving. The trailer does follow the tractor, but not in exactly the same path, particularly if you're in a turn. I have had 2-3 instances where the front corner of the trailer has "bumped" into something, like a support post or a tree, and the tractor doesn't even slow down or shudder because the trailer bed breaks easily when struck. I had to repair the trailer two or three times before I learned to be more cautious cornering with the trailer. Also, the floor of the trailer broke where it's hinged to the frame. That happened when I dumped a heavy load and the trailer dumped too hard. Another repair job. All the fixes on the trailer bed left it slightly distorted. This meant that the output chute from the discharge of the motor driven vacuum/shredder didn't reach the trailer's canvas enclosure reliably and I had to extend it so that it wouldn't keep disconnecting and showering me with shredded leaves or mulched grass.

My other issue with this big XL unit is that you need to be very aware of how much grass you capture in the trailer before you empty it. Green grass can be heavy. On the PRO-XL, the trailer and canvas cover are pretty big. If you get too much green grass into the trailer it will pile up against all four sides of the canvas cover. To dump the trailer, you have to release it and it lowers the rear of the trailer to inches off the ground. You then go to the rear and have to lift up on a bar attached to the frame of the trailer cover. If you get too much grass in the trailer, the weight of the heavy green grass tends to transfer to the rear (low) end of the trailer. That causes the canvas cover to bulge out and a LOT of weight can now be pressing on the rear of the cover that you have to lift. More than once I've taken one loop of the field too many and not been able to raise the trailer cover and ended up having to pull grass out handfuls at a time until I could get some of the pressure off the rear of the trailer cover and be able to lift the cover.

Am I glad that I have the lawn vac? Absolutely. Would I buy another DR. I don't know. I'd consider it and the other offerings and see what the pros and cons are of each, particularly now that I have 7 years of experience with mine. I probably would not buy the PRO-XL again given the occasional, but very frustrating and time-consuming problems with emptying it. Larger is fine for dry leaves, but if like me you sometimes or often want to also pick up a large area of grass, the large size can become a big disadvantage if you're not really diligent.

Sorry about being so wordy. Hope someone finds this helpful in some way.
 
We had a Agri Fab lawn vacuum. Had nothing but disappointment with it. The DR seems similar to the Agri Fab. Did a lot of research and concluded that you want a unit that has as big in diameter and as short as possible, a duct from mower deck to lawn vac as possible along with a strong blower and motor to make use of the big duct. Sold the Agri Fab and bought a Cyclone. It solved all the problems of constant plugging up the duct from deck to vac. Yes, the fixed mount to the tractor is an item that must be accounted for when making turns, but that fixed mount is what allows the short and big duct from the deck to the vac. We've used the Cyclone for 5 years now and we've only plugged it up twice and that because we were trying to mow too fast on too tall grass. The trailer type vac for us was useless due to plugging up constantly.
 
I don't know if it was mentioned but one advantage of the Cyclone Rake has over the DR Vac, AgriFab Vac, Peco Vac, and Trac Vac is you don't jack knife when backing up with the Cyclone Rake. You do jack knife with the others because of the pin hitch.
 
since the conversation is all over the place, I’ve had my TracVac since the early 90’s, I’ve never had any issues with it, as far as jackknifing goes, after 3 million miles in a semi truck, backing up is not an issue! It’s now headed for the back of my new 1025R!
 
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I don't know if it was mentioned but one advantage of the Cyclone Rake has over the DR Vac, AgriFab Vac, Peco Vac, and Trac Vac is you don't jack knife when backing up with the Cyclone Rake. You do jack knife with the others because of the pin hitch.
Yes, that is a major feature of the Cyclone Rake, and yes -it's been mentioned many times as a benefit. As well, as their excellent build quality & customer service
 
Another advantage of the Cyclone Rake is the storage. I already had a cart for Craftsman lawn tractor, so I didn’t need to store a second one. The CR breaks down to wear you can hang it on a wall except motor.

I have pallet raking that the bag folds down to lay on shelf. I roll frame and motor under bottom shelf and tubes lay on shelf next to bag.

My reason going with this was the mower is 10-15 years old but running just fine. Didn’t want to invest in bagger for mower and have it die on me. The CR can be changed to run on another machine.


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Another advantage of the Cyclone Rake is the storage. I already had a cart for Craftsman lawn tractor, so I didn’t need to store a second one. The CR breaks down to wear you can hang it on a wall except motor.

I have pallet raking that the bag folds down to lay on shelf. I roll frame and motor under bottom shelf and tubes lay on shelf next to bag.

My reason going with this was the mower is 10-15 years old but running just fine. Didn’t want to invest in bagger for mower and have it die on me. The CR can be changed to run on another machine.


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Exactly. I ran my CR for 14 yrs on my JD317, then with 2” receiver hitch adapter & longer hose from CR adapted it to the current 1025R. The mower deck adapter is the same unit required- just had to enlarge the opening to accommodate the greater 54” mower deck output
 
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