According to the title - ever made.

You can go back a ways. The 790/990 were bullet proof. The 755/955 etc. were bullet proof. The 2520/2720/2032 are nearly bullet proof.

I say all this because of all the simple/stupid issues people are having with their brand new machines. Frame bolts loose - major hydraulic leaks, etc.

 

As a 790 owner, I would agree with the above. No computer, no complicated emissions, simple clutch and transmission. Downside is the 300 loader has limited lift capacity although the later model improved that with larger curl cylinders.

I bought mine used and it may outlast me. . .

Treefarmer

 

My suggestion is to get on youtube and start watching videos of what tractors are capable of and what jobs you think you want to do. I have been watching tractor videos for many years now and the only tractor I know you are supposed to avoid is the Kubota B3350. Neil from Messick's has one and even he admits it was a dud. You aren't leaning Orange so you are probably OK. A lot of guys want to stay away from the John Deeres with the universal joints that are hard to grease between the engine and transmission but I dont think there are any in the size range you are looking at. I dont see nearly as many videos on the other brands. They seem ok for the guys that bought them new and are excited about them but you dont see much about older models and lots of times you see guys saying. I finally upgraded to a John Deere or a Kubota...

From my non-scientific survey of forums and videos it seems like the 2038R is about the most popular tractor JD has. It seems like everyone wants one. yes they aren't big enough for some jobs but they seem to be the "Just right" tractor for a lot of people.

 

Did you post the same question on the Kubota, Mahindra, Kioti and RK forums too?

Obviously, the guys on here are going to lean green. And I can't blame them. But, one of the most important factors in your decision should be local dealer support. What dealers do you have in your area? Go visit them and get a feel for how they'll treat you - especially after the sale.

FWIW, you can't really go wrong with a Deere 2 or 3 series. I'd also have very few qualms about buying a Kubota - although I'm not a big fan of their "treadle peddle" for controlling forward and reverse.

 

JD, I'd have to give the nod to a 790.

 

2038R is the best currently made...
There, I said it!

 

I would say mid mount is not really important as I don’t see myself manicuring the fields to the point of a mid mount paying off (from what I’ve read). Also there is a familiarity with the rear mounded mowers for me.
As far as price point ideally 15-18k would consider the ~20k a max.
If there is/was something before the 2 and 3 series I would be fine with that. I don’t think I “need” all the refinements but also realize I will absolutely need them after I have them.

 

I would say mid mount is not really important as I don’t see myself manicuring the fields to the point of a mid mount paying off (from what I’ve read). Also there is a familiarity with the rear mounded mowers for me.
As far as price point ideally 15-18k would consider the ~20k a max.
If there is/was something before the 2 and 3 series I would be fine with that. I don’t think I “need” all the refinements but also realize I will absolutely need them after I have them.

Here you go!! Shouldn't last long!

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Have you been to Tractordata.com ??

Heres an example

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/1/5/152-john-deere-955.html

You can enter any brand /model # and get to the raw data quick...Its not 100% accurate but pretty close and easy to use. Will give you the years produced ,HP ,options avl at the time and many different specs.

Also...Keep in mind...With the older 90's ++ tractors......Gear drive tractors typicly had taller tire/wheel 's than the similar HP Hydro drives. Hydro's were shorter lower. May not be true today as almost all compact types are all hydro. Things were different back then. A 955 is equivalent to todays 3 series. Yes its smaller but HP is one thing to look at. 955 was the longest ,lowest and widest of the triO...755/855/955.
I can't speak for the gear drives of the era....My land is way to steep to even consider one. Been there .
I can sidehill my 955 anywhere on my land .27^.but I have learned its limits...Also all 4 tires are loaded and R4's..the shorter of the choices for a 955. Its a safe machine with 3 brake pedals and a simple forward & reverse pedal. Get in a strange spot..let go of everything and it just sits there...

Keep digging..You'll find what fits you.

 

plus one on the 755, although you may want an 855 or 955. My 1987 just keeps on ticking, never been stored inside, Maine winters and all, easy to work on. there may be a reason they are hard to find, eg, mine is not for sale and will not be while I live.

 

I've always had a soft spot for the 2520. But......................................................................................................

I needed a tractor to run a 3 point airblast sprayer for the orchard. The sprayer weighs 800#s and is 3' behind the lift arms and requires 15HP to turn the fan. The fan is rated at 19,600CFM. Did not want any EPA emission equipment on it. So I know this is sacrilegious on this site but I found a 2002 Case IH DX33/with loader, 4 x 4 with 398 hours on it. Also had turf tires so as to not tear up the ground in the orchard. Now have the tires filled with beet juice (640#s) and flipped the rims for stability as the orchard is steep.

I've put 60 hours on it since last fall, and it runs like a dream and sounds like the old school diesels and starts with a satisfying puff of smoke.

 

I've always had a soft spot for the 2520. But......................................................................................................

I needed a tractor to run a 3 point airblast sprayer for the orchard. The sprayer weighs 800#s and is 3' behind the lift arms and requires 15HP to turn the fan. The fan is rated at 19,600CFM. Did not want any EPA emission equipment on it. So I know this is sacrilegious on this site but I found a 2002 Case IH DX33/with loader, 4 x 4 with 398 hours on it. Also had turf tires so as to not tear up the ground in the orchard. Now have the tires filled with beet juice (640#s) and flipped the rims for stability as the orchard is steep.

I've put 60 hours on it since last fall, and it runs like a dream and sounds like the old school diesels and starts with a satisfying puff of smoke. View attachment 756037

My neighbor has a Case IH Farmall DX34 (35 engine HP, and like 28 pto HP). Has a 72" belly mower, and FEL. Pretty nice machine. Made by Shibaura, who I think use to make the older Ford compact tractors, probably others as well.

I'd take a Deere of comparable size and vintage over it tho.

 

Honestly no. I’ve only ever had Deere’s growing up more in the 40-50hp range. Figured I’d start where I know. I’ve used kubota I’d agree with the pedal comments. Deere dealer is the closest and actually have several near by kubota has a few less then new holland only two. I have never even touched a new holland.

 

955!!!!

 

As someone who owns a 4720 cab for bigger work, I would suggest a Gen 2 2032/38R with a MSL loader.

 

I would say 650/750 670/770 for you Small frame compacts 790/990 which became the 3005 & 4005 for You medium and Large Frame Compacts Though I would still love to have a 1450 or 1650

 

Are you looking for new or used?

 

Used I believe, to maximize budget.The less I spend on the tractor the more I can spend on implements. Or other toys like a mule.
However the sum of the package deals on the 2032 that I see around here are mildly tempting.

 

You should also mention budget and a little more details on what you want.

For instance a 3E can be a great value but to some the lack of mid pto is a deal killer. Also it is harder to remove the loader. You mentioned brush hogging so the lack of mid PTO might not be a big deal but the loader could still be. That is an example of something you might want to avoid but to others it might not be an issue.

 

I know this could potentially become a dumpster fire as this is like asking which is better Ford or Chevy. However, I’m looking for most reliable (or easiest to work on) around 30hp tractor with loader. Small average (7ac) to maintain. Typical use bush hog, gravel work, smaller garden and dirt/mulch loader work.
Or the flip side question is are there any to avoid?

If it weren't for your loader requirement I would have recommended a Ford 8N.

Seriously, most of the small diesel SCUT/CUT tractors from the major brands are very reliable and the "routine" maintenance is very easy to do yourself. But... on most all of them if something really breaks you'll more than likely need to engage the dealer.

 

If you have to time to play around, start looking HERE

This will give you a ballpark for your budget, I'm a little partial to the 2038R myself.

 

You might try using machine finder. That is John deere only dealer base of used equipment. Some dealers do put some new stuff on there as well.

That 990 must be a hard machine to come by. Only 1 listing nation wide among all the deere dealers.

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Only see 3 790s out there. These are looking mostly 10K or less .

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Tractorhouse.
Over a dozen 790s and 3-4 990s, and some 8-9 and 10, 70 series machines, not much different than 90 series machines.
Quite a few 955s too.

 

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Or this one.

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Maybe mention what part of the country you are in as there can be a few thousand dollars in freight to get a machine across the country to you, so that might impact your search and selection some.

Certain machines seem to have much more regional availability than others. For example, many models which are very common in the Midwest are often much more scarce in the Pacific Northwest and desert southwest.

Then there is the selection and consideration of a machine. Some wouldn't hesitate to purchase a used machine sight unseen based upon photos where others wouldn't consider a machine they couldn't personally inspect and test drive. Unless, of course, you are up for a major road trip as part of your tractor acquisition.

 

How is the engine hooked to the trans?

Bolted directly together, the end of the crankshaft splines into the hydrostatic transmission, like larger tractors. The 2520 and 2720 are actually rebadged Yanmar tractors, made to JD specs (Not sure about the 2320, but it does have a driveshaft). The manufacturing label on my 2520 says Yanmar Agricultural Equipment, Osaka, Japan. No wonder they're so good.

 

Interesting..I never knew this..

SO is There NO Frame like the typical scut??

..I like the looks of the New yanmar line...Case dealer has a few.

I guess I'll crawl under a couple and see whats New....just for fun..I like to educate meself.

 

I would recommend a 2032 JD if you have the budget for it. Any of the 2 or 2 series is a good choice depending on your needs.

I see the “hard to grease driveshaft joints” come up all the time. I did mine yesterday. From start to finish, including getting the tools out and put away, it took me 25 minutes and I also greased the mower deck. It’s one of those things after you have done it once it’s easier. 50 hour interval so for me that’s about twice a year.

 

What does your land look like??
Flat or Hills..?

How much land?

What is your primary use for a tractor if you know yet?

 

Mostly Hilly/sloped 7 acres
bush hogging
material movement. (Mulch, gravel, plant material burlaped trees)
we don’t get snow here.
And tilling small/medium garden (Don’t know dimensions but probably 2/3 passes with the tractor)

 

Sounds like a Hydro drive would be your best bet.

If you could find a low hour 955......you'd be happy.....10K ish loaded.

With the budget at 15-20 k as I think I read.....you could get something a bit bigger & newer.