I am also in the same boat wanting to do similar to a portion of my property. I would love to get a grapple, but will need to add a third function as my 3046R did not come with one. The other option might be a stump bucket from GWT so I can pop the small trees up (mostly yaupon). The bigger stuff I would have to chain saw and then drag them out with skidding tongs. Either way a lot of off and on work. I'm interested in what other ideas folks have so I will lurk here and learn...

 

It’s obviously difficult to advise without seeing what you are up against.
Depending on the size of trees you need to clear perhaps you should even consider hiring something “big and hairy” for a day to make your trails. Even a tracked machine if it warrants it. A decent machine and operator would do a lot in a day and it could even be just as cheap as the wear and tear on your 3320.

 

I have both a grapple and a Pirhana on my regular bucket. One complements the other and I rotate them, do some work with one then go back to the other.

When I first got a grapple, it stayed on a long time. Did a lot of work with that, worth its weight in gold.

 

I have gotten a lot of use out of my Frontier pallet forks with the Frontier pallet fork grapple attached. Would I like a true grapple? Probably. But, I have successfully moved all of the logs, limbs, and brush that I have attempted with this combination. As a bonus, the grapple is not simply a purpose dedicated implement. It can stay attached to the fork frame while the forks remain fully functional for pallet work etc.

I have also found that by gripping and picking up a balanced log with the grapple, and the forks slid into the narrow position, the forks are the perfect distance apart for using the chainsaw to cut firewood lengths from the log that I can now position at a perfect height where I do not have to bend over to use the saw..

Loader Attachments | Frontier Pallet Grapple PG12 | John Deere US

I would have attached photos of me cutting firewood this way, but my wife was driving the tractor picking logs and I was operating the chainsaw. There was no one else around to take photos...

 

My forks remain attached probably 80% of the time. I just purchased a rake grapple. I’m sure that’ll be most useful, post Hurricane. Otherwise, my forks will still be my go-to attachment.
Time will tell.

 

I'd go with forks long before a bigger bucket ... Why not keep your current bucket and add the Piranha to it! (I like mine!)

There are kits to "update" an older tractors loader to a quick attach system ... JD, or the more popular SSQA.

Monroe's fork grapple is interesting ... I've lost a few loads off my forks, not the end of the world, just takes more time to scoop it back up, and I don't cut firewood for myself, just give it to neighbors, they cut to length themselves ... But a grapple of any kind would be handy for "holding" logs!

Any grapple worth having (there are "manual" styles!) will require additional hydraulics to the front, and the hardware to operate them ...

 

If I did a standard grapple added to the bucket, I think I'd only have to run hoses to the back since the belly mount connects there.
I found this option that is built to simply use the tilt function of your loader, thoughts?
Frontier mechanical grapple

Would you think it's better to add a grapple to a bucket, have a standalone hydro grapple or have something like I linked above?

 

The trees we're dealing with are across the board, sapplings from 1/2" in diameter (brush hog size!), to trees 2' in diameter. Obviously, we won't be using the tractor much on stumps over a couple inches. We would be moving logs pretty large though.
I'm afraid in the woods, the fork and grapple could get bent, but I'd love a dual purpose reason to finally get forks!

 

Thank you for all your responses!

Anyone have experience with the Pirhana verses the rachet rake? I was leaning towards the rachet rake because it comes on and off without tools...

 

Anyone have experience with the Pirhana verses the rachet rake?

Apologies - I was actually in the process of replying to your thread a few days ago on my phone. Had to put it aside before posting it and when I got back on my phone it was gone. This is the first time since Saturday I've been at my computer.

To answer your question - I have both a Piranha and a Ratchet Rake. Both are great tools, but I prefer the Ratchet Rake for doing the kind of work you're talking about. It does a much better job back dragging to give a nice "finish" to what you've cleared. It's also pretty quick to take on and off, although the Piranha is only two bolts to remove/install. The Ratchet Rake doesn't cover the full width of your bucket, but I haven't found that to be an issue. The Piranha is manufactured in the US, but I'm pretty sure that the Ratchet Rake is made off shore, but it is an American owned company. I've talked to the Ratchet Rake people before ordering - super nice folks! I do have the regular ratchet straps on mine (not the chain binders) and they've held up well.

Let's talk about grapple options - do NOT go with the mechanical grapple. Several threads of people reporting bending issues of their FEL frame with them. There's another one out there called a Brush Crusher - I'd stay away from that one as well. However, there is a guy on YouTube (A Tale of Three Cabins) that has a Brush Crusher and loves it. I've watched his videos using it and it looks cumbersome.

I'd take a look at something called an "Add-A-Grapple". I think you can use coupon code TTWT to save a few bucks on this. I believe that @PJR832 has one of these and has been really happy with it. I have something similar called a "Greens Machine Thumb". Similar concept except that I had to fabricate my own mounting bracket to attach the Thumb to the bucket. Having a grapple on your bucket is definitely a compromise from having a dedicated grapple, but it's worked really well for me. I probably don't get as much brush grappled in a single "chomp" of the jaw, but I still get a good bit. Plus, it's super handy to go from grabbing brush to scooping up dirt/woodchips with the bucket without having to switch from the grapple to the bucket.

You can run the grapple (whether dedicated or added) from the rear hydraulics on your tractor. You will need to run some pretty long hoses to do this, but it is doable. Beware that the grapple fittings will most likely be 1/4" and the fittings on the rear of the tractor are 1/2", so you'll need to something to "reduce" that. I'd probably size the hoses for 1/4". I've actually got a set of 12" long hoses that have the 1/4" on one end and 1/2" on the other. I have a couple of attachments that I can run from either my FEL or mount them on my 3PH. The "adaptor hoses" let me easily do that.

HINT: Use a garden hose to figure out how long of a hose you'll need to go from the rear SCV to the front.

If you're doing work in the woods, I'd definitely recommend dropping the deck off the tractor. This will do 2 things - First, it will prevent you from damaging the deck in the woods. Second, it will take the weight off the cylinder that controls your deck height and should minimize that linkage leaking down. I don't use the deck on my 3520 any more, so I've removed all of that.

I think that you'll eventually grow tired of moving your hand between controlling the FEL down to the lever to control the grapple. Early on, I put on a diverter from Artillian - it's worked really well for me. It is a little pricey at $850 plus shipping though. But, you're going to have at least a couple hundred just in hoses and fittings to go with the rear SCV approach. If you're handy, you can put something together yourself. @Kennyd from BoltOnHooks.com has everything you need - except for the hoses - to put a nice diverter setup together. And, if you know what kind of hoses and lengths you want/need, I think he might be able to supply those as well.

Someone above mentioned renting/hiring something "big and hairy" to clear things out for you. This isn't a bad approach. Over Memorial Day Weekend I rented a stand on mini skid steer with a 40" brush cutting deck on it. I was able to get it for 3 days (picked up Friday afternoon and returned first thing Tuesday morning) for the 1 day rate. I was limited to 10 hours of machine time unless I wanted to pay $25ish extra per hour over that. I got an amazing amount of clearing done in that time for somewhere around $300. I rented this from Sunbelt Rentals which has locations all over the country. You might want to look into that. If you want to see some examples of what this kind of machine can do, check out a YouTube channel called "Schott Services". This guy does work for hire with his mini skid steer and has several brush clearing examples on his channel.

Hopefully all this helps!!

 

The reason why I'm posting is because I'm wondering what's the best way to outfit the tractor and loader?

more load at the 3 point in the rear and chains and as little steel up front as possible. Is that big enough to get the round bale mover with the two fork like things and the spike is removable. If you are heavy in the back steering with the brakes helps, if you are heavy in the front the tires likely deform, maybe even turf tires get pulled off the rim in 4wd.

 

I put a Piranha bar on my bucket soon after getting the tractor. It's never been off as I've not found a reason to take it off. Digging, grading are all done with it on and it's stout enough to reinforce the bucket. If the ground is right, I can push trees up to about 4" diameter. Push with the bucket high until the tree falls over. Follow the tree down with the bucket and angle the bucket so the bar digs in and it will push the tree out of the hole tearing the roots loose. It takes a little touch to have the Piranha bar grab rather than cut through the tree but it works well if the ground is right.

I also have a grapple and use both interchangeably. The bucket/bar combo is better when I'm pushing through briars, small saplings etc. Push stuff into piles and then come back with the grapple to move it. I won't use a pole saw unless the grapple is handy. (Bit of an exaggeration but not much.) It's just the thing to move limbs, cut off trees etc. I can lift much larger logs with the grapple than either forks or the bucket as if necessary, I let the grapple hang almost vertical putting the load closer to the pivot. That's a big difference than having it a couple of feet further out.

I'd suggest getting the Piranha bar first and trying it out. It's relatively inexpensive and worth it regardless. I'd find a used heavy duty box blade with good rippers and if finances permitted get a grapple. I think you will find that a diverter is much easier to use with a grapple but that's a preference over two different controls.

Use the bucket/bar to clear stuff down to the ground. Use the box blade to rip roots and level. Use the grapple to move debris. If you have a brush hog, use that as much as possible.

Or just rent a skid steer with a mulching head but you will still need to deal with the chips in your food plots. They are great for trails though.

 

I let the grapple hang almost vertical putting the load closer to the pivot. That's a big difference than having it a couple of feet further out.

Great operating tip here. I had not yet figured this part out- I often pick stuff up this way. I need to eliminate the extra time and wear and tear by not curling up. Usually unnecessary.

 

Thanks for the great pointers!
I'm gonna start with the Piranha bar...
Do any of you see a down side to a grapple designed using the tilt function of the bucket?
Frontier mechanical grapple
Frontier video

 

Some people have had "troubles" with it breaking their loaders ... https://www.greentractortalk.com/th...om/threads/mg20f-mechanical-grapple-review.231388/?post_id=4076480#post-4076480

 

Oh my, thanks for the link. It's not worth it then....go with a hydro grapple. Perhaps as one guy mentioned, a shear pin in the right place could help the issue but I have enough bad luck that I don't need to go looking for more! Then it goes back to if there's any advantage to getting a skid steer adapter and going that route because you have more options if they're universal than just JD style.....plus I could add a stronger bucket if I ever wanted.

 

I'd think pointed down would also be easier to see the pinch point on what you were attempting to pickup, if it's a single item like a log ...

 

FYI: There's a few other threads on clearing brush one might consider searching for.

I've been doing quite a bit of brush clearing for almost a year - here's a few thoughts the originator might find helpful.

Short answer: Consider hiring someone who has heavier equipment to do the initial clearing or rent some heavier equipment. Save your machine from damage of working in the woods.

Longer answer:

1. Take the belly mower off. I tried cutting stumps even with the ground and mine still "catches" from time to time.
2. Avoid mowing with the belly mower unless the ground is completely clear. I tried chopping up some small brush and was surprised how many "hidden" sticks and branches I found with the mower. (See previous item about "finding stumps.") They lurk beneath leaves and pop up at the most time.
3. My neighbor is kind enough to loan me her tractor/bushhog combo to knock down briars. But it is almost impossible to maneuver through the woods with it. It's just too long to maneuver.
4. I'm tired of breaking the work lights off. It is amazing what a small branch can do to an expensive John Deere work light.
5. My neighbor's grandson bent the grill guard and grill by using her tractor to clear a deer food plot. Then he hooked the side of the bucket on a tree and bent it. Finally, he broke the back wheel off her brush hog. And, he's an experienced operator - it is too easy to damage a nice machine.
6. It will take longer than one might expect. It looked easy until I started - then I found all the small stuff that is in the way. And, at first, there's not a lot of of room to "pile up the cut material." Working about 4 hours a day, it took me a few weeks to clear brush on about 1 acre last spring. I burned about ½ of it and the rest is still in piles. Some are going to be disposed of this winter, others are left for wildlife.
7. Piles of brush and logs grow faster and bigger than expected.
8. One will need a long term plan for keeping the brush back - especially along the edges of trails/wooded areas. Once the sun light can get in, it is amazing how fast briars, vines and trees will grow out of the wooded areas into he cleared areas.

My situation is slightly different, but the lessons apply. I'm trying to save some of the trees from invasive plants. So, I've avoided hiring someone with a forestry muncher. (There's some posts on this site about treating/killing invasive plants.) If I was clearing trails so I could go hunting, I'd pay someone with a forestry muncher - they can do a lot of work in a day. Then I'd buy a grapple and some kind of rear brush cutter (brush hog or flail mower) to keep it clear. Consider all the other things you can do with the time you save when hiring/renting a machine that can get it done very quickly.

 

Thanks guys, lots of good pointers. Yeah, I don't use my belly mower hardly ever and it hasn't been on the tractor in years. I just mentioned it because then you knew I had the extra valve for a potential grapple. I do have a brush hog and box blade and I've planned on using the brush hog for the smaller stuff.
Can the ratchet rake pull out or cut the small stuff as well as the Piranha?
My hesitation for the past several months on using my 3320 for clearing is exactly what JAllen shared. I'm very worried about the branches and stumps you don't see causing serious damage. I was hoping to get something older with more iron in it, but it's not in the budget and I don't want to deal with a clutch in tight woods.
mark02tj, why are diverter kits so expensive!!

 

Using your 3320 makes total sense for the job, especially since it’s already on hand. A skid steer quick attach setup is a solid move-it gives you flexibility with attachments. I’d definitely recommend a grapple bucket. It’ll save you a ton of time. And yes, you can likely repurpose the belly mower hydraulics for the grapple, just double-check compatibility. Sounds like a great setup in the making!

 

It depends on what you are trying to clear, but it looks like two options. You can either cut the trees larger than an inch or two down with a chain saw and brush hog the rest, or if that's not acceptable, hire somebody with an excavator and a cat to come in and knock everything down. I don't think a larger bucket will do much for you, in general you will do better with just shredding small brush and cutting down larger stuff than trying to push it with a bucket or dig it out. I helped my dad clear neglected fields with trees up to about 6-8" in diameter worst-case when I was a kid, even with a full-sized utility tractor the tractor just ran the brush hog and if it wasn't shreddable, it was cut with a chain saw or axe and the close-cut stumps left to rot. There was very little that the tractor could grub out and it could have picked up a 3320 with its loader. Trying to grub out a 6" tree stump just broke a loader mounting bolt, that was a fun one to extract a hardened bolt about an inch in diameter.

 

There was very little that the tractor could grub out

I've also given up trying to dig out stumps with the tractor. Anything smaller than, say, 3", sure, but above that I used to just cut it at ground level and leave it be. Now that I have the stump grinder, that's a lot better, though.

A while ago I had to dig up crepe myrtles about 6" diameter, but that was because the wife wanted to plant something different there. I resorted to cutting the roots with the sawzall and just pushing them over and out with the grapple. That worked surprisingly well.

 

Hi Guys, so I stuck a Piranha bar on the bucket and finally got the tractor hauled up to the property last weekend. I was going along widening the trails, nice and easy, brush hog on the back, got a few hundred yards into it. To my amazement, the piranha bar was absolutely amazing! 2", 3", 4" diameter trees it can knock down or easily pull out while hardly bogging the tractor down. I was shocked! However....encountered a problem which is why I believe the 3320 with turf tires isn't going to work. It's been wet lately and wherever there was standing water on the trail, the front end just sank. I almost got stuck and had to work at getting out. The front end is just too heavy and the tires are too small. I cannot even get through a part of the woods because there are puddles here and there that I know will leave giant ruts or bury the tractor altogether. I'm afraid to be able to get through the woods, when not in a drought, I really need a larger tractor with bigger front tires, bar tires, and what does Deere call it, MWFD.....My schedule and workload in the woods doesn't allow to sit idle for half the summer because it may be too wet...if I have spare time, I need to be able to get in the woods. Any thoughts/recommendations on this?

 

Any thoughts/recommendations on this?

I'm looking forward to my Piranha bar being delivered today!

About your problem: yes, 4WD/MWFD surely helps, but it's not going to prevent ruts. A larger tractor would be even heavier and rather controversial to your problem.
I rutted up our trails badly over the (wet) winter. My solution was a box blade, with that I was able to restore them pretty quickly. Of course that wasn't possible in the winter, and now I always have to wait a few days after a big rain for the ground to dry up.

Our soil is mostly clay, and while it's hard as concrete when dry, as soon as it gets thoroughly wet it just turns to mud. So I limit my tractor episodes to dry weather now.