I have not been following this form and have not been able to locate the thread where it says how to do this. I know this has probably been discussed many times. And I know back in the day you could just stick a wire in it and that would bypass it. But the last time I tried to do this (I think it was on a 800 series) Deere had more than two wires on it and I had to screw the bottom of the seat together to engage the switch. If someone should point me to the thread I would appreciate it. And I'm really not looking for the gloom and doomers to tell me your opinions on how unsafe this is. But If you have a good story though of how you cut your foot off or something due to disabling the safety seat switch. I would like to hear it so I could try to avoid doing the same thing. Thanks for the help.
Swampmule
I don't have a thread on how to do this and happen to fall in the camp of the safeties on the ZTrak is about right. So I won't get on a soap box. Though I absolutely hated the RIO (Reverse Implement Operation) safety on my X585 that kills the PTO when backing up. That one is fully disabled on my machine.
Anyhow, I don't have the service manual which would have the wiring schematic for the Z950R. If there is more than one wire, I would assume it is looking for different conditions. If you have an Ohm Meter and look at how many wires there are normally you will see an operation like this. Lets say there are 4 wires. In the case of that RIO Switch on my X585 it is 4 wires. The switch condition is at rest when not moving or moving forward. Or pressed when backing up.
While at rest:
One set of wires has a complete circuit which will show little to no resistance. This is the safety side and as long as the circuit has a connection, the PTO will run. The other set will show open at rest. In the case of the X585 this is how it operates the backup lights.
When Pressed:
Now you are backing up so the circuits flip. The PTO circuit which was closed opens up and will kill the PTO. On the other side it completes the circuit and activates the backup lights.
So how does this apply to the 900 series ZTR? Well get in there and look at how many wires there are and with that ohm meter you can determine what pressing the switch does. This will help you figure out what wires to go after. You are looking for a completed circuit while pressed. I am not sure why there would be more than a pair of wires going to the seat switch on a ZTR since there are no lights. Maybe they have separate safety circuits to kill the PTO and kill the engine. For instance a dead man switch if you were to fall off while in transit (no actively mowing). Eventually I plan on getting the service manual but it doesn't make much sense for me at this point since I am under warranty. I am trying to think how all the safeties work. I know it will shut down if I get off the seat without the parking brake set. Of course if you get off the seat with the PTO running. I have even had to duck under branches and such while in motion and mowing but I don't think the PTO has shutdown on me. I do know there are three different seat options though and it is possible some are more touchy than others.
I don't know how much this helps but maybe it will help out a bit.
Anyhow, I don't have the service manual which would have the wiring schematic for the Z950R. If there is more than one wire, I would assume it is looking for different conditions. If you have an Ohm Meter and look at how many wires there are normally you will see an operation like this. Lets say there are 4 wires. In the case of that RIO Switch on my X585 it is 4 wires. The switch condition is at rest when not moving or moving forward. Or pressed when backing up.
While at rest:
One set of wires has a complete circuit which will show little to no resistance. This is the safety side and as long as the circuit has a connection, the PTO will run. The other set will show open at rest. In the case of the X585 this is how it operates the backup lights.
When Pressed:
Now you are backing up so the circuits flip. The PTO circuit which was closed opens up and will kill the PTO. On the other side it completes the circuit and activates the backup lights.
So how does this apply to the 900 series ZTR? Well get in there and look at how many wires there are and with that ohm meter you can determine what pressing the switch does. This will help you figure out what wires to go after. You are looking for a completed circuit while pressed. I am not sure why there would be more than a pair of wires going to the seat switch on a ZTR since there are no lights. Maybe they have separate safety circuits to kill the PTO and kill the engine. For instance a dead man switch if you were to fall off while in transit (no actively mowing). Eventually I plan on getting the service manual but it doesn't make much sense for me at this point since I am under warranty. I am trying to think how all the safeties work. I know it will shut down if I get off the seat without the parking brake set. Of course if you get off the seat with the PTO running. I have even had to duck under branches and such while in motion and mowing but I don't think the PTO has shutdown on me. I do know there are three different seat options though and it is possible some are more touchy than others.
I don't know how much this helps but maybe it will help out a bit.
Number 1, You must not really "disable" the seat switch so if in case of an accident your home owners insurance will pay for any doctors, hospital care charges. That is, if you know how to plug it back in so the insurance claim agent won't know the difference.
In my case I have a Z170A with the same JD #AM103119 (BJD88) seat switch as what is installed on the Z900 series. Here's how I did mind, and I didn't cut/change any wires that could disable the switch.
As you well know the JD 700, 800, and 900 series seats have a metal base pan, and there is no switch adapter like on the JD 300, 400, 500 riding tractors, where one can unplug the wires to the switch and it housing.
On the Ztracks, the switch is a black plastic housing that snaps in the metal base plate, and the "plunger" is made so when the operator is on the seat the plunger retracts into the housing. Now, the trouble is removing this plastic housing from the metal seat plate. It takes two very small bladed screw drivers and some patiences to get it out. Once you have removed it, take a flat metal washer that that has the hole "almost" the size that it will clear (go over) the plunger. Drill two small holes...1/16" dia. in each side of the metal washer and take some wire and attached it to one hole of the washer and wrap it around the bottom part of the switch housing and around the other side to the other hole...hold down the plunger and take the other end of the wire and into the other hole and pull so the plunger stays retracted.
Now, you can just lay the seat switch and the cable wires aside or you can re-install the seat switch into the metal seat plate.
Or you could buy a spare and use it as the "cut-off", and you won't have to remove the one in the seat panel. Do as I mentioned above on the spare. Costs about $7.95.
In my case I have a Z170A with the same JD #AM103119 (BJD88) seat switch as what is installed on the Z900 series. Here's how I did mind, and I didn't cut/change any wires that could disable the switch.
As you well know the JD 700, 800, and 900 series seats have a metal base pan, and there is no switch adapter like on the JD 300, 400, 500 riding tractors, where one can unplug the wires to the switch and it housing.
On the Ztracks, the switch is a black plastic housing that snaps in the metal base plate, and the "plunger" is made so when the operator is on the seat the plunger retracts into the housing. Now, the trouble is removing this plastic housing from the metal seat plate. It takes two very small bladed screw drivers and some patiences to get it out. Once you have removed it, take a flat metal washer that that has the hole "almost" the size that it will clear (go over) the plunger. Drill two small holes...1/16" dia. in each side of the metal washer and take some wire and attached it to one hole of the washer and wrap it around the bottom part of the switch housing and around the other side to the other hole...hold down the plunger and take the other end of the wire and into the other hole and pull so the plunger stays retracted.
Now, you can just lay the seat switch and the cable wires aside or you can re-install the seat switch into the metal seat plate.
Or you could buy a spare and use it as the "cut-off", and you won't have to remove the one in the seat panel. Do as I mentioned above on the spare. Costs about $7.95.
I was just out in the shop and looked at my Z950R and it is just a 2 wire connector on the switch.
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Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk
That was easy, sorry too wast every one's time.
I just stuck a wire in it and will tape it up. The parking brake is next. And to the one that has the reverse button to push I just stuck a wire in the LA 100, if that is set up the same way.
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I just stuck a wire in it and will tape it up. The parking brake is next. And to the one that has the reverse button to push I just stuck a wire in the LA 100, if that is set up the same way.
Sorry, I'm not trying to get on any bandwagon. I just need to ask the question why? I have a 2015 Z920M, and can not think of any reason why I would want to disable the seat switch. I can't think of when I would want to get off the seat and keep the blades running. I would always turn off the PTO and set the emergency brake. Am I missing something?
I know it's been several months and the last few people to respond to this thread are long gone but here it is anyway. The main reason that I disabled the seat switch is so I can hop off to pick up trash, sticks, move stuff out of the way and etc. When your mowing is a big part of your income and already engaging the PTO 20 some times a day, if you can save some wear and tear on the cultch and belt then it is something to consider. I remember back on the 800 sires they would go through belts like candy and 90 percent of the time it was when you engage the blades. I know these are not the 800s and have come a long way. This may seem strange to some of you but when you grow up on them with out the safety switch it's real hard to get use to them. When I was little I would set the cruise on the 345 then hop on the hay wagon hooked to it and ride with my friends intill we got to the end of the feild, hop off and try to stop it before we crashed or went off the bluff. So the first I do when I get a new mower is take off the shields and disable the seat switch. And Yes the reverse look behind you switch is the stupidest thing they have come out with. It really does make it harder to look behind you and is a safety issue in it's self.
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